Here is a list of all the postings Dave Smith 14 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Digital readout for mill/lathe|
Just replaced my caliper style scales with the Warco System. The calipers eat batteries, 15 mins sometimes, would reset mid cut etc. The Warco system is mains powered so no batteries to worry about. I paid a bit more than the equivalent on Ebay but went for the customer support. Very pleased so far.
|Thread: what do you use when designing?|
Catia V5. I have on my work laptop.
|Thread: Hi from Hampshire|
Hi from Cowplain, another newbie just starting a 5" gauge Aspinal, but a 30 year modeller in 4 mm scale EM gauge.
The app says I have to buy the latest issue, I am unaware of my subscription having run out, no chase emails, I recon I am only 6 issues into my new subscription and I have access to it via the ME site? I need to read it on the app as the last years worth of copies only loads blank pages on my tab 3 tablet when trying to read from the site (laptop is ok). Any idea what is wrong or how I check my subscription?
|Thread: 16BA screws|
|Thread: Flange Radius for Copper Boilers|
Bending Aluminium, you must be very careful here as the acceptable bend radius depends upon the grade of Aluminium being used, its temper, its thickness and whether you are bending across or with the grain. Stronger the material larger the bend radius. Typically the Aluminium Association suggests you can use 2 x thickness (2t) for 6082-T6 sheet up 1.2 mm thick. However do that at your peril, if you bend across the grain you may get away with it at 1.0 mm thick but 3t is required to achieve consistent results in all directions at that thickness and 4t from 1.2 to 1.6 mm. Of course heat treating changes all that, but introduces a whole new set of problems.
|Thread: Warco WM250 I have killed it|
You are correct it was that fuse, I checked this morning before going to work. I originally discounted it because the rpm counter was illuminated and assumed it was fuse for whole supply. It seems it just protects the motor supply. Luckily my new WM16 mill has just turned up with some spare fuses. Thanks for the help.from everyone.
This was bound to happen as a new starter. I thought I was engaging the cross feed after starting a facing cut on some ally bar. Engaged the carriage feed instead lathe stops! Switch it all off. Tried to restart, I get power through to the control panel and rev counter reads, but motor does not start. I hope this is only a fuse or something. I am sure I saw something about this in a thread but searching does not bring anything up. Can anyone help please
|Thread: Class 2 Standard 2-6-0 by Don Young|
I was going to build the tender version and bought the photo copies from Reeves. I am now building the Aspinal instead so they are surplass to requirements if you want them.
|Thread: Model engineering beginner: My first build|
I too am just starting out on the journey of building my first engine, in this case Don Young's L & Y Aspinall Class 27. I cannot help you with build errors, but your approach is a logical one and the same as mine. Don's Design are reputedly pretty good, but this particular engine has no build articles, so info on the accuracy of the drawings is sketchy. Hence I am remodelling the loco in metric (where appropriate) and as a 3D model, using in my case CATIA. As well as checking to make sure it goes together, what dimensions are missing etc it gives a really great insight into understanding how it works. I have started with boiler assembly and the picture gives a quick flavour of where I have got to. Good luck with your build.
|Thread: Prevention of seizure in aluminium threads|
Please do not use Alocorom, Alodine or any other Chromate conversion process at home. These products are known carcenogens and under the EU REACH programme will be outlawed in 2017 along with chromic anodising due them containing Chromium 6. It is real pain to those of us Aerospace. There are alternatives to Alocrom now that are REACH compliant which off hand I cannot remember the name but an Internet search will find them.
|Thread: Just bought a S/H Warco WM250 it will not start!|
Thanks for the quick feedback, it was the gear case interlock that was the problem, all is fine now. I think George was correct in that the bracket may have been bent.
My first post on the forum. I bought a 2 year old Warco WM250 lathe earlier in the week ( its in in great condition and has been enhancec with proper bearings etc). Obviously it was working when I bought it and all we did to load it in the car was to unplug it trip the trip isolation switch, then remove the tailstock, splash tray, rear splash tray and the chuck safety guard. The chuck safety guard switch has been imobiised by the previous owner. It is still on the garage floor but l plugged it jn this morning to show my wife that it really is quiet but it will not start, it does not appear to be getting any power? I presume that the orange lens between the start and stop buttons should light up if the lathe is plugged in and isolation switch set to on., because nothjng is lighting up. To activate the isolation switch I have rotated it in the direction shown on the switch button and allowed it pop up, but nothing appears to be powering up or run. I hope I am just doing something stupid and that the someone will point me in the correct direction.
Thanks in advance
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