Member postings for Dave Smith 14

Nick

I have experience with designing hubs for racing cars and mainly used 6082 T6, occasionally using 2024 T4 if needs dictated. 6082 T6 which is very easy to get hold of and will be acceptable for your application, providing you do not go mad. 7075 is a total overkill and complete waste of money in this case, it also a lot more susceptible to corrosion issues unless protected properly.

Dave

I just use the standard LED lights from B and Q, we get the occasional failure but some in the lounge have been in place at least 3 to 4 years now and they get a lot of use. My 1970's angle poise has always had a 60W bulb in with no problems with smell or overheating.

Dave

My digital version is not showing up either on here or pocketmags, Only had the notification for 4654 two days ago, Can Neil or someone advise what is happening please?

On Wednesday I dropped one of my wife's Christmas cakes she had made for one of her relatives. She was not blessed please, even though tier 4 restrictions have prevented us taking it over to them!

I have the Warco DRO's (not factory fitted) on my WM16. Originally I had the X axis on the rear of the table. This loses about 25 mm of travel. Normally this has not been an issue. When machining the horn blocks on my 5" Aspinal chassis I needed the extra travel, so I moved it to the front. You lose the stops, but I never use them anyway and it is easy to mount the dro using the T slot. It interferes with the table locks but my handles are knackered anyway and I have removed all of them and use a 'T' handle socket direct on the hex head.

I have an Anycubic Photon for 4mm scale work and a Malyan 150 for other stuff the Anycubic cannot do. Martin, my wife said why do we need a buy a tablet a few years ago? She is on her third now! My Malyan is second hand and cost £75 with a truck load of upgrades on it.

Dave

Nigel you are so right!

Some comments on dimensions. A drawing is the design definition for a part or assembly and should have sufficient data for it to be manufactured and controls how the part operates or interacts with its environment or mating parts. Sometimes the best way to dimension a part for manufacture is at odds to the functional dimensions required to control the design definition and in these cases the functional dimensions prevail. This can be got around by production engineers using stage drawings during the manufacture process. With CNC machining from a 3D model the issue goes away providing the functional dimension tolerances are met at inspection.

However that does not excuse the questionable dimensioning that occurs model engineering drawings. To get around the issue on my Don Young Aspinall build I have a full 3D model and I produce drawing to suit me from that.

Dave

Not how to build a point but a good advice on how to start planning and building a garden railway.

Building a Railway (rideonrailways.co.uk)

Dave

Dave

You appear to have posted the same request twice but in different threads?. I will repeat what I suggested in the other thread. The Model Engineering Clearing House forum (MECH) see link below has a very high level of steam locomotive participation. If you start a thread on the 'General Chat section' of MECH asking for advice, plenty of people on there have either built or own B1's and will give you any advice needed. One of my fellow club members has a B1 and regularly posts on the site. I would also advise joining a local model engineering society, who will also be able give you valuable advise. Your nearest clubs are Reading, Andover, Basingstoke or Oxford. Good luck

Link to MECH

Dave

If you put a thread on the General section of MECH asking for advice, plenty of people on there have either built or own B1's and will give you any advice needed. One of my fellow club members has a B1 and regularly posts on the site. Same goes for the Speedy (stupid name, why dont people just call a loco by the prototype it was based on).

Dave

Acrylics work fine on brass, but it is the same as all susbstrates you have to use the correct primer. Etch primer followed by Halfords rattle can primer works fine before top coating.

Dave

+1 for Vallejo, been using them for years. I find the model air spray without problem straight from the bottle. The standard Vallejo paints I thin about 50/50 with their thinners. The 4mm scale Ginsters livery Class 158 in the photo was sprayed and weathered with a mix of model air and std Vallejo. The finish was deliberately dulled down using Johnsons clear acrylic floor polish. Just remember with acrylics they dry extremely fast so you must be scrupulous with cleaning your brush after use. I normally use an Iawta Neo and the cleaning regime is. Empty out any remaining paint from the bowl. Wipe out any residue. Fill bowl with airbrush cleaner and spray that at max pressure/flow until spray is clean. Take airbrush apart and clean in ultrasonic tank. allow to dry and re-assemble and its ready for next time.

Dave

Brian

Comparison of GL5 and Southern Fed standards.

Ron are you aware of this website for the 'new build' Class 22. It has some good detail and a side view drawing. It may be a bit easier than trying to scale an N gauge model which is already someone's interpretation of the original.

Image map | Project 22 (project22society.co.uk)

Edit at the bottom of the images page is the side view, not the one a the top.

Dave

Edited By Dave Smith 14 on 04/12/2020 18:42:03

My driving trolley (used just for me has a bicycle calliper using brake blocks on a disc just like you are describing. Like Duncan it can lock the wheels even on steel track. The disc is made of ordinary mild steel. Stainless will work just as well. Don't worry about cooling holes or similar you will not be using the brakes enough to warrent them.

Dave

Mario

Go for the job level you have the experience and competence for. I interviewed and employed many non UK Engineers over the course of my career. They were judged on whether they were suitable for the job nothing else.

Dave

Does not surprise me at all. These schools tend to have first class facilities in all subjects and use them. Not every public school pupil will go on to be a legalised bank robber in the City. How many will go on to blue collar jobs, very very few, but what it does do is give all of them a start in understanding how things are made, which a fair percentage will need to know for future careers. Engineering is not dead in this country it just works differently to how some people remember or think it should.

Dave

Kevin

Good luck with your hydraulic. For those of us about to or actually building a boiler anything you have learnt along the way that would be useful to share?

Dave

Howard

Not done it but I have made my tender body from mild steel to my own laser cut patterns. Having worked professionally with sheet stainless I see no real issues. You will want annealed stainless if you are intending to bend it. Remember it works hardens as you bend so you only get one shot at it. Drilling is not an issue providing you lubricate and keep the pressure on while doing it. Soldering needs the flux that CUP sell, but I have had no issues with it. Best thing is to try some test pieces or a small part of the tender. first.

Dave

Peter

Look at this boiler pages on this website

**LINK**

Steve was a complete novice when he started and has built his own boiler which has at first attempt got its shell certificate. Loco is not complete so has not steamed. His build sequence is very detailed.

Dave