Here is a list of all the postings Barry Chamberlain 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Warco WM280V-F Gearbox|
In response to earlier queries, all I discovered inside the gearbox were these two broken teeth.
Photo uploaded by Barry - at last! Many thanks to Steve for earlier uploads!!
Hi Dave. Thanks for your comments, I hadn't noticed the slant but looking at the photographs again you may well be right. Would explain the requirement to provide clearance for the gears by grinding the cover panel. I didn't check for parallelism of the shafts. The gear trains were easy to rotate by hand in all positions on re-assembly so no cause for concern.
|Thread: Magnetic base type lamp flopping arm|
Got fed up with the flexible arm rotating at the magnetic base, so dismantled and discarded the ineffective star washer and two plain washers. Replaced with two M10 stainless steel spring washers, one each side of base housing. Job done!
|Thread: MEW Special edition 2008 Cherry interview|
Also, don't forget the wonderful 2014 publication "Cherry's Model Engines" by David Carpenter which describes her workshop methods and models. Not sure if it's still in print but the ISBN number is 978-0-7198-1421-1.
Unfortunately, I am STILL unable to upload photographs to this forum for some totally unknown reason, otherwise would be sharing a few brilliant pictures from the book!! My copy has 148 pages of extremely high quality illustrations and cost £30. Worth every penny!
|Thread: Warco WM280V-F Gearbox|
Just to clarify - I have NEVER attempted to move ANY lever at high speed. Where that idea came from I don't know.
What I intended to convey by "over enthusiastically changing direction" was that I didn't necessarily wait for the drive to completely stop before moving the lever over. I shall obviously do so in future. I also agree that there is no clear instruction in the manual about moving the gearbox levers.
The ABC (triple gear) lever stiffness reported shortly after delivery in 2012 could NOT be overcome by rocking the chuck, which is why the machine was returned. Warco reported that the problem was due to swarf beneath the knob and all has been fine until quite recently. After 8 years of regular use I have no complaints whatsoever with either the machine or the service I have received from Warco who have always been extremely helpful.
Having removed the gearbox cover it is clear that the triple gear does not slide freely over the shaft key and jams when moving to the left. I suspect debris in the keyway.
I have not commented for a while as I am waiting for spares prior to stripping the gear box down. I still have no idea why I am unable to post jpg images, but will continue to add pictures via Steve.
Thank you to all who have made contributions thus far - much appreciated. To be continued …………..!!
Update - I really have to apologise because I am totally unable to select and upload images for some reason. Perhaps Steve will put up my latest images which show the rearside of the removed gearbox. I have tried to select images on 2 PCs and also this, my smartphone, so seems to be an account problem.
I have been thinking about the various helpful comments that I have received so far and on reflection agree that I have been over enthusiastically changing direction before the machine has stopped. This would explain the damage to the mangled gears.
The original ( and continuing) problem of a stiff ABC selector appears to be down to the triple gear assembly not being free to slide along the shaft. By the look of things could well be debris below the shaft key which is restricting travel. Should become clearer when disassembled.
Update. Many thanks for the input on the problem. Warco can and do supply spares for the gearbox so I have ordered two which are in stock and a third is on order but with a long delivery time! I will now remove the assembly and review the situation. May well try to modify the third gear with one from HPC as per Dave's suggestion if the wait is too long.
I've experienced stiffness with the gear change selectors since original delivery (it went back to Warco quite soon after it was installed for this very problem) but after a time you tend to live with difficulties.
Poor meshing would appear to be the primary cause. This has led to excess gear wear, resulting in the three broken teeth discovered in the base of the casing. Will update the Forum as things develop.
Hi all, sorry, I was distracted when posting - my lathe is a WARCO WM280V-F. As stated all help is much appreciated.
Edited By Barry Chamberlain 1 on 11/03/2020 22:49:44
Wondering if anyone has any tips on replacing gears on the Myford WM280V-F
Be nice to get some ideas on how to replace broken gears. Original problem was stiff gear change levers which I now know was to down to badly worn/broken gear teeth. I have the front cover plate off. Any help welcomed.
Thank you for your comments Ian.
I think the attitude in the home workshop should be along the lines of 'this is not piece work' so taking both more time and lighter cuts will tend to produce the desired result. I have taken on board your Bridgeport experience for when I get to use the ER collets!!
I'm going to purchase the ball bearing type ER32 nuts from Arc Euro which seem to have better closing qualities than the regular nut.
|Thread: Diamond tool holder.??|
Having just looked at the Wimberley holder manual the tool grinding procedure seems to be as intricate as for a regular cutting tool whereas the Diamond Tangential tool grinding procedure (AND alignment in the tool holder) is just so straightforward, achievable by anyone of any level of expertise, and more importantly - consistent.
Why not try both tools Neil and do a comparison in MEW? Think I know which tool will come out tops!!
Thank you all for your interesting comments - they are really appreciated.
Perhaps I should state that I have the full range of 5C collets and accessories which I use in conjunction with my Warco WM280V-F lathe. As John said the C5 collet will grip short pieces of work which I have done intuitively.
About a year ago I dumped the R8 Clarkson Tool holder fitted to my Naerok (old but still useable) mill as I found them to be too fiddly and awkward to use.
I began to use a Chester Tools ("ER" style) set of 8 collets in the mill with the supplied R8 tool holder.
The Chester collets are to their own design I believe. The set arrives with 3,4,6,8,10,12,14 & 16mm collets. Spare collets from Chester are very expensive and it really makes it untenable to make up a full set.
I started to realise that the ER32 collet range would (seemingly) fulfil my needs complimenting the C5 collets, and the existence of a C5/ER32 adaptor clinches the deal as this can be used in the lathe, spin indexer, Stevenson's blocks etc. In effect a no-brainer!!
Those were my thoughts, and although it sounded reasonable, I still couldn't fathom out the reason for having both sets until I read Clive's answer when he said that ER collets were designed for tool-holding and 5C for work-holding.
So, this has resolved my reservations and hopefully Santa will be reading this!
I fully realise this might open a can of worms, but what are the comparative benefits of selecting C5 collets over ER32s?
I realise that C5 collets are one size whereas the ER32 can close down 1mm to the size below the marked size.
So, bearing the above in mind, is there any appreciable (measurable) difference in workpiece holding or retention between the two standards?
|Thread: Diamond tool holder.??|
Agree wholeheartedly with previous replies - I splashed out and bought both LH & RH versions plus the parting off tool ...... and apart from using a round shaping tool and boring bars they have been in permanent use since unpacked over 12 months ago. A really excellent tool choice and the expense side of things soon fades as you get to appreciate just how good they are.
One point is that the supplied sharpening jig leaves your fingers VERY close to the grindstone wheel, so I have manufactured a longer version. I also had to fit a spacer onto the grinder tool rest to bring the base of the tool sharpener in-line with the wheel centre line.
Buy, and enjoy the freedom and flexibility they offer.
|Thread: Material Sourcing|
Thank you Jon for your time - very much appreciated !
I'm having difficulty sourcing 12mm x 10mm Bright Steel Flat Bar.
1/2" x 3/8" would be suitable alternative
Many thanks in anticipation! Barry
|Thread: Portable Engine Model Engineer Article by Tony Webster|
I recently added an album containing several pictures of Tony's Engine from different angles which some may find useful.
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