Here is a list of all the postings Leslie Williams 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Uniflow Engines|
Right, ... now Mr. Old School.
Now page 171 .... yes I can see what you mean. now I see how it works, he has a slotted return crank, I hadn't noticed that before, now that's a good idea, he's also using a cylindrical valve as well, so he's not having any of the problems that came from using a Poppet valve. I've seen a few different designs, but this one is very good. It looks like he's hollowed that valve out, but it doesn't show how he gets the steam into it. The holes at the top are not the answer?
Ah! ... I've just found out how to make an album.
I only fired it up once, it's made by Bassett & Lowke and came off a Marine Engine that I have. By memory it spate out quite a large flame.
That's very very nice Windy. I was looking at all the bolts that you have to lock down the cylinder head.
Also looking at your scored camshaft. Tell what kind of temperatures do you think we are looking at here? And do you know, or can you guess what the steam pressure is? I like the little valve too. It's really nicely made.
I been trying to upload a Photo, but I can't find out how to do it. I have a picture of a Petrol Blowlamp which is probably similar to the ones used with the Flash Steam plants.
Old School eh!
That sounds alright.
Now I haven't seen this book by Frank Jutton, but I do have Experimental Flash Steam from years ago, and that doesn't have any relieve valves, that I can remember.
I see if I can get a copy of Franks book, or go to the State Library, and have a look there.
And yes I would agree making such a small valve would be a challenge, but I'll have a go at it, after all watch makers had to do more challenging things, and succeeded.
You made a poppet valve for Flash Steam, as I said I just can't imagine the pressures that this kind of valve would place on the valve gear? Some of those engines operated at more than 1000 psi.
|Thread: ME Boiler|
Ghee you have done such a good job of this Mark, you surprised me.
I haven't soldered up a boiler, but I know that it takes a huge amount of heat, we used to have this guy Jeff who would do it. But that was his trade, so he was good at all things big and small.
Even your little base for the S10 came up well. .... So good for you.
|Thread: Uniflow Engines|
Thanks for Posting a couple of your Photos Windy. I can get a ruff idea of whats going on, but not fully. And I'm also guessing that this is out of a boat for Flash Steam? A lot of these engines favoured Poppet Valves, and don't get me wrong they're also my preferred valve as well, that is for engines operating from boilers, but for Flash Steam where I have heard of astronomical pressures (greater than 1000 psi) the strain on the valve system would be enormous. And anybody who can make a double beat Poppet valve that small, should get a Trophy. But that's all about Flash Steam and those things are powered by very large Petrol Blowlamps.
But to get back to my storey I was simply in the throws of designing a Uniflow Engine which would work from a Boiler, maximum pressure of about 60psi or even less. And with these engines the exhaust is nothing more than a set of blow holes at the end of the stroke. So far all is well. And so far all normal. Now without a condenser, the trapped steam with no where to go, could be compressed on the exhaust stroke, to up 60psi or more, robbing the crankshaft of some energy.
So what I designed was a small valve in the piston which would only open on the up stroke, but now I will need to make a model to prove it. Andrew in the mean time had sent me a link to another guy who had also designed a spring lowed valve, designed to open on the exhaust stroke with access to the outside air, and of course it used a crash valve for the admission.
I might have some diagrams or Photos to add a little later.
This thread originally came about because I had mentioned that I had invented a small relieve value which operated on the return stroke, but remained closed on the power stroke, for single acting engines.
Of course I will have to make a model to prove it.
Andrew had sent a link to another unflow engine, also with a spring operated value.
This is a small uniflow designed for model boats, got it from an Ebay seller.
It's not in the best of condition.
Yes Crash and Bang Valves,
And firstly to Quote Andrew,
"I would have thought they were pretty good? Presumably one wants a valve to open quickly, stay open for a time and then close quickly so that maximum steam can be passed in the minimum time. I'm also puzzled as to why the engine linked to worked without a condenser? "
Yes and of course, and I am agreeing with you, that is their strong point. It's just the clunk and bang that they make that I find disturbing.
Richard Trevithick's Loco worked just like this, using a long tappet rod, as did most if not all of the early engines of that day. Including all those so called vacuum engines from Watt's day. They just sound noisy. So I prefer to use a cam with a spring return.
And why the condenser? ... Well with simple blow holes for the exhaust, the steam that was left there would have to be compressed, robbing the crankshaft on the return stroke.
Uniflow were the favourite engine for the Flash Steam people, but few had any type of relieve valve like the one the was shown in your link.
All the best, Leslie.
|Thread: My ambitions|
Andrew because this thread is starting to get a little long, I've decided to start a new thread, as this was originally just a meet me thread.
The new thread.
UNIFLOW ENGINES. (Under Stationary Engines)
Edited By Leslie Williams 1 on 28/06/2021 13:37:05
Howard there is so much information there, I will have to absorb it a step at a time. A search a few years ago came up blank, which surprised me to say the least. Now I will need to keep this, so that I may return to it from time to time.
To Quote, It took me a time to learn that putting on a cut removes twice as much as I thought, until I realised that it came off both sides of the bar! My turning instructor let me find out that for myself!.
Yes I hadn't even thought about that, now I'll have to watch out for it before I make a mistake. And once I order a 4 jaw chuck and faceplate, I think that I'll have most of the accessories that I 'll need. A Zeus chart. .... That's the first time that I've heard of that.
I'm thinking that I should have started a new thread, this one is starting to get a little long.
But whatever I will keep coming back to here for tips. You've been so helpful I'll have to keep an eye out for you on some of the other threads.
All the best, Howard and many thanks for taking so much time just to try and help me.
Oh! .. super Howard, this is the sort of stuff that I need to know. and I will always be using hand reamers, even if they are in a Chuck.
Anyway I only bought a Lathe a week and a half ago, and even then it's only a small table top model. My reamers are sharp because I've never used them.
Cheers fellows, and a big thanks to Howard.
Yes this is the very info I'm looking for. .005 thou wow that is small. ... and there Sir lies my problem. My primary drill was too small. .... Thanks
Now I will have to go out and try to find some drills in very fine graduations.
Hi there Andrew,
Yes thanks for that. I had seen this a couple of years back, and there's a lot to like about it. I am a little bit fussy tho. Eg: I just don't like crash and bang valves, although that's only a minor worry. He's idea on the relieve valve is very good tho, except one would never know if the spring loaded valve were to open on the power stroke?
Loved his idea for solving the heat expansion along the cylinder, with that Graphite Liner from Du Pont. ... Tops.
I read a storey of a retired Canadian engineer in Belize. Who made this Rankin Cycle engine to run on Butane. So in a nutshell the evaporate goes on his roof, and the condenser is down in the basement. I other words it's a refrigerator in reverse, so he gets free power, and the hotter it gets the better it works, JUST SUPER.
Yes Hi Howard.
You know I did think of this, but then asked myself how deep would I need to drill the initial hole in order to ream it?
I was thinking that the finish size for the reamer would be close to the handle, and that's a long way.
But I believe my real trouble was the drilled hole was too small. Basically I just don't know how much smaller, or the correct drill size for each reamer.
That's my double.
PS. Ah! I just thought of something, I could have cut the stock to say 1 inch long and then re chucked it. Yeah that's what I'll do next time.
|Thread: Little nuts.......big fingers.|
Hi I use a lot of BA nuts, mostly 5,6, and 8, and even down to 10 & 12. .. (Yes 10 & 12 are a little harder, but OK)
So what I do, is I lick my finger, and add the washer on, then link my finger again and add the nut on, then roll my my finger over the nut. It usually works OK, then tighten with a tube spanner, but don't use too much pressure when tightening.
PS. Just think of watch makers they go from 12 downwards? ... BA is the Thury Thread, and they go right down to No.25
Edited By Leslie Williams 1 on 26/06/2021 14:22:06
Edited By Leslie Williams 1 on 26/06/2021 14:44:28
|Thread: My ambitions|
I haven't started out all that well. I made an anchor for my bath plug chain, (last month) out of brass and stainless steel then and melted it trying to silver solder it together.
And yesterday I made a small pulley out brass, but was unsuccessful trying to ream it out to size, so ruined that too. I don't know i just seem to have trouble using a reamer.
Thank you Thor & Andy.
Yes I joined today. Bit of a storey here. My name is Les Williams (from Aust) my grand parents came from England from both sides Wales & Cornwell and I think you have aleady guessed it Yes searching for Gold in the mid 1860's and on one side (Fathers) was very successful finding a Gold mine in Western Australia. So that meant that I was born in a Gold Mining town Noresman. At the age of 5, I would run out to the front of the house to watch the steam Loco's go by, I was fascinated with them.
By the time I was 6 my Father moved to the seaside town Geraldtown, And at this age pretty much knew how they (Locos) worked, but one day a boy bought into school a small oscillating steam engine. I had never seen one before and was fascinated. I wanted to make one, but couldn't. So now, many many years later will. Except ... with a twist. I have invented a new type of valve gear, or correction, a better port system. But will need to make a model to prove it.
Now these days I'm all into efficiencies and may favourite engine is the Uniflow which will only work properly if one uses a condenser, so again I have invented an automatic relieve valve, which will only open on the return stroke. But here again I will need to make a model to prove it.
So last week I purchased a small table top Lathe, to go with my mini Oxy Acetylene Torch. for silver brazing. So I'm now ready to go, be it slowly.
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