|Thread: 1st milling with the ZAY7045 Milling machine-Question|
Ok, I could not stop thinking about this and after some time my mind came to a resting point somewhere.
I made a simple sketch in paint and uploaded it, illustrating my current view on this triggered by what other mentioned....
Today I am going to bolt the 2x parts together seeing they have holes, and mill both small ends together clamped in vice.
Some questions going through my mind:
0-Spindle Speed=+/-500rpm......The time a cutter tooth spends on the part.
1-Face Mill size=80mm
2-Face mill teeth=4....wide spacings..
3-The part with=20mm......
4a-The -amount of teeth- versus the part with and the -gaps or not- in play.....
4b-The mill has a gearbox or not....
5-The spindle Rotation=Clockwise.
6a-The part offset towards me...Angle into work and out...Grader
6b-The part centred to spindle centre.=Blunt cutting...Bull Doser
6c-The part offset away from me...Angle into work and out...Grader
It seems one can have "Conventional Milling" ....."Blunt Milling"..... and "Climb Milling" like but not similar to other side milling practices.
Edited By Chris Mate on 19/01/2022 06:06:45
Howard, interesting remark, I was not sure about climb milling with the facemill, if I put it on centre, ok the time of the cut is shorter, the angle is more headon, the sound if I can describe it was blunt and it sound like its putting play on mill gears in gearbox or bring out the play and it looks like it pushes the cut like a bulldoser, compared to a grader with blade sideways scraping the road, ..while off centre it's more silent and free cutting sounds good, however I could not see a diffrence in quality of either cuts apart from the angles finished.
Edited By Chris Mate on 19/01/2022 03:05:05
Hi Dave, I have just millied without coolant just a spaycan cutting fluid, so thats no problem.
I could have bought other similar mill without coolant tank option, but none of them had the swivel bed. The company I bought this from refused to sell it without the coolant or cabinet. So seeing I paid for it, I decided to give it a try, and in the process I want to experiment with my own version of an oil catch can floating in the tank, keeping oil from above from entering the coolant mix, it will push over in a little container by itself/levels.
The mist I rules out seeing I don't want to breathe that, same with the smoke, the lathe is less of a problem where its located.
I will probably use only a small slow stream, the rest circulate filtered back to the tank. I can also add a residual small tank, so if a small job, I dont start pump.. On advice I will mix the coolant a bit more oil.
-This is just a personal choice, if it does not work out as I thought, not the end .
Edited By Chris Mate on 18/01/2022 17:32:04
Ok, so I offset it quite a bit towards me(Y+...-? from the centre, and the sound if much different softer, and I get the feeling I can feed it faster if I want to.
I don't have DRO, so I interswopped them in vice(twice) till both down to 17.5mm.
The finish is good and evenI would say, very happy with that.
Will inspect the cutter tips tomorrow.
So thanks for information given, this was an interesting experience about cutting sound.
JasonB, I was cutting steel, I am going to go to the other extreme of off -setting it more than the 1st time, and listen to the sound and compare cut surfaces. The mill never sound it would struggle, its just the sound of the interrupted cut I noticed was different..
Note:Coolant and costs....This effort is just a personal choice which I hope works out good without having a CNC like enclosure.
The reason I have not bougt ER collets & cutters yet, Is I am spending money on stainless steel trays & guards with the purpose of catching chips, route flow coolant and be easily cleaned and removable, so for the vice I have a different setup than for just the table.
I watch milling for 2 years now, and in this regard I have an idea of how I would like to do it to minimilise the mess coolant can make, I am finished with tha tank, pump, filtering and pype routings back to the mill with nozels(3x) flow controlable with backflow from back from pump back to tank. The catch areas and those routing back to tank I must still do.
Edited By Chris Mate on 18/01/2022 12:58:40
Thanks, you have a point about the offset thing. I started the other day with accidently had it off set towards me(The front), and it sounded better than today, thats why I decided to question it.
My feed rate was slow manually, slower than the other day with offset due to sound. I think I might have cut 1-1.5 mm off in this go.
I cut one, the cut looks 100% well to me. I will change the offset to the other day, and cut the 2nd one that day.
-I will then remove facemill and inspect cutter tips.
-I will then call it a day on milling till I got the right ER32 or ER40 tools & cutters.
Edited By Chris Mate on 18/01/2022 11:44:52
Ok, at moment I am busy milling the 2x small tools I made to bolt and fine adjust the swivel bed 100% square. I grinded them with grinder , drill holes and tread on on each, and mill the bases flat so they bolt on square to bed base.
I set up the cutter by letting the 4x brazed inserts tips down on a round plate on top of vice I considered flat enough, and tightened them with least stickout, just a bit.
Today I mill their top sides to same height and sqare to the base.
My question is, is this type of milling consider a good or bad practice(-?) seeing its an interrupted cut, from what I can it is somewhat convrntional milling with the centre of the facemill lined up with the centre of the part and milling it from front view left to right under through cutter with cutter spinning clockwise. The cut result looks perfect to me, no irregularities on face.
Facemill(Received with mill)=80mm MT4 with 4 clamed brazed carbide inserts.
With of part=20mm...................Cut with 80mm facemill.
Lenght of part=50mm..Clamed in vice.
Speed=II + L setting=540rpm.
Good or bad-?
If ok what depth of cut maximum you suggest for this operation, speed suggestion 80mm versus 20mm-?
|Thread: Running needle rollers between cast iron plates|
Interesting question, not an expert but I was surprised what Google search had to say...
This is a bit off the topic ....
1-high-nickel cast iron...Not all cast iron created equal......
2-Low load continious running with not much stop starts....
"Machining a Cast Iron Bearing"....I see ABOM79 machined a cast iron bearing, look at this.
Maybe someone has 1st hand experience of aplications-?
Edited By Chris Mate on 17/01/2022 20:25:26
Edited By Chris Mate on 17/01/2022 20:26:49
|Thread: Mill or drill for the same money|
I have a small drill press(1-8mm), a larger one (6-20mm) holes and now a mill.
So far the 2x drill presses never going away.
I have a general type of a question regarding drill bits & sizes and milling bits and sizes. I assume drill bits in general are not accurate by the way they operates therefore reamers, milling bits more of an accurate thing.
Not sure about indexable drill bits in drill presses and what they require in stiffness.
The question is with milling machines the spindle and whole operation is more secure, and with drilling machines(The home types) less so. So the question is is the slight play or forgiveness in drill presses more to the favour of the drill bits, less stress on them, than a mill will put on it drilling seeing it does not cut sideways as in milling, so if it wonders off a fraction the mill will put force on it to stay straight-?
Edited By Chris Mate on 16/01/2022 13:03:32
Edited By Chris Mate on 16/01/2022 13:04:10
|Thread: What Did you do Today 2022|
Made 2x fixtures that bolt to the lower bed each side(Can be easily removed) to adjust the swivel bed accurately square without tapping it..
Decided to mill the fixtures flat to fit to bed, very happy with some milling for the 1st time, and how the quil fine asdjustment worked.
Previously ightend the MT4 Drill chuck as suggested on this forum with drawbar. Had no problem removing it, just one light tap with aliminium mallet. Replaced with Facemill that came with milling machine.
|Thread: Lathe tooling|
Before I bought a QCTP I had a slotted wooden tray and place each toolholder with it's shims in one slot, so I sorted the shims once.
For a set of 10mm insert toolholders which are all perfectly the same height, I made a separate toolpost with a fixed groove calibrated to the height, so no shims or moving parts.
The QCTP came with 4 holders, but that is not enough, I need to buy more, maybe at least another 3.
|Thread: Hobbymat MD65 chip tray|
On advice origially with the lathe from a local machinist, I raised the lathe as well as new mill and not regretting it.
With mill I went to him he has a knee mill, we put in his biggest vice and I adjusted the bed up & down till I liked it, then measured his bed table from the floor, and that lead to how much I must lift my mill, so I poured a concrete raiser with 6x bolte protruding and bolted the cabinet the mill mounted on down.
Note:My theory is if you bolt the lathe down, you must shim it to cut straight if whatever you bolt it down to is not perfectly flat.
Edited By Chris Mate on 12/01/2022 04:17:01
|Thread: Setting up a swivel mill bed & vice|
Thanks, the angled mill will serve a purpose, however in this case I must clamp it to the table(Too big for vice) at various angles, separate operations to reproduce what I made up already, in this case the end result will be simple, one lid with a glass(New visible refective part for oil kicking back from). I have to mill it from the bottomside as well. Theres no way I can do this quickly. Thers going to be flat surfces at an angles pointing o each other with a drainage path leading to a cross over drainage U channel delivering the oil to the spindle bearings. One vtrick is the holes chamferred from the bottom but flash from the top.-The oil shoots in the hole morec easily it can flow back as holes are tilted as well, the size of the hole matters to thickness of oil.
So the end result will be simple=One lid with a glass and the oil catch concept in it/part of it. LId take off, this is removed too. At monent it works like this but is two parts, I don't want any screwes/3mm bolts anyehere in the design, that may be a risk .
Note: I had to fit a tank(small inside the gearbox with 4mm holes in the bottom for drainage. Itwork like this.
-I fill the gearbox with more oil.
-I fitted a vertical oil indicator to see how tank works and oil level stationary.
-I lower gears oil (68) is kicked up high due to higher level and catched, but the tank dont get filled and it has no effect on motor power due to lower gears chosen.
-At higher gears the tank is quicklt filled(4 seconds) and it stays full, lowering the oil level so mtor is not dragged by oil. The oil level indicator quickly drains to lowest mark which is original level for gearbox.
as the tank is filled it keeps on draining, till motor i stopped. Then it drains empty and level is back high again.
Not all gearboxes will be able to have an internal tank, but external will be just as good.
--Catching oil is not a 100% effort, every catch point does block oil upwards as well, but 50% is enough, oil is somewhat stored over the whole path catched as well. If motor is stopped oil run for few minutes down from here through spindle bearings.
-Grease=Why not grease in spindle as manual indicates=Well the spindle bearins are open to the inside and sideway splashes from the inside washes over thime the grease out, some of the grease block the drain holes making the bearings leak put as well, now i does not leak out anymore. If the bearings was not open to the inside, the grease of spindle would have made sennse in this lathe.
I think I may learn a lot trying to make it. I will have to reposition the part multiple times.
Note:The vice will not be part of this.
Thought if I want to swivel the vice, I just remove the two clampling bolts to T-Nuts(No T-NUT-Stud used here) and leave the vice on centre dowl but clamp it with the clamping set or a less space taking made up clamp effort, I forget I can do this.
|Thread: Hobbymat MD65 chip tray|
Like it, had one made for my lathe, now waiting for one for the mill around the vice to be used with vice.
|Thread: Setting up a swivel mill bed & vice|
Later on I want to mill manually a catchplate for oil regarding my Lathe gearbox of which I have a prototype like made of expereimental pieces bolted together with certain shapes & holes & 3 sections to catch oil splashed upwards from 3 gear positions representing splashing in lowest, faster, fastest gears forwards. The splash pattern is different for each type of speed. The thing is constructed in such a way it deliver the oil to both spindle bearings constantly without any moving parts. It works like a charm for a few months now. My current top is wood frame with a 6mm glass inserted.
Its a long story but I discovered spindle bearings do not get oiled as I though would happen after I seen it through the glass. I just do this because it interested me.
One reason I bought the swivel bed mill, is I cannot see how I can mill certain angles inside the square top of the gearbox (thick aliminium plate)applicable after the outside diameters, and 6mm lowered indent is milled to accommedate a glass window so I can again see whats going on. I need the vice to travel with the bed(Swivel left to right-right to left) plane at an angle (Apart from 3 degree angles up/downwardst o make oil flow) to accomplish that. My understanding is that if I horizontally swing the vice, and not the bed, it will just cut as a lathe do when you select the cross slide(Always with lathe bead to headstock) instead of the topslide(Angled).
I may be wrong in my understanding of this, but will proof it as soon as I actually can mill, still buying stuff, I have patience and dont want to plow a lot of money in one go at it.
Edited By Chris Mate on 10/01/2022 19:54:39
Mill with Swivel Bed-ZAY7045M
-No hammers or mallets to tap on vice.
So today I modified my "centre dowl" for the vice to swing around a centre point for easy calibation square to the swivel bed of the mill. It has pros and cons.
0-The swivel bed must be adjusted square 1st, otherwise you don't get the vice 100% square.
Put vice on a centre point:
1-The "centre dowl" had a play so i have to tap the vice on the back also. To eliminate this problem, I turned the 15mm sticking out above the table down somewhat to 20mm. I then made a 3.5 mm sleeve from a bronze rod I had, bore it out to a press fit. I then turn the bronze outside diameter down for a slip fit into the vice no play.
-So now the vice swivel around this point which is in line with the vice 2x clamping bolts/positions to the table with no play.
Adjust vice like a 4x jaw chuck:
2-The 2 x flat bars I made to sit on each side of the vice 20mm x 30mm x table bed with and screw to table with 4x bolts/T-Nuts for each groove, I drilled a hole on the handle side towards the vice horizontally, sink & thread 2x 8mm hex bolts with a spring for each to keep them stiff. Now with these two bolts I can adjust the vice around the pivit point very accurately with relative ease like a 4x jaw chuck.
-I takes 3 moves and I cn adjust that the needle run dead still no movement from the one end of the fix jaw of the vice to the other end...No tapping with mallet.
-I tighten the vice csrews slightly both in this case.
-I then run the bed and indicator and adjust one of the two screws on one bar, then the other one till needle is still whole way.
-I then tighten th vice nuts zig zag pattern till tight and recheck.
-I like this.
1-No tapping, get 100% accurate reading at dial indicator at.01mm.
2-For this method, neither the vice sides, not the 2x flat bars needs to be milled/grinded precisely square, other than the bottom of the flat bars resting on the mill bed/table.
Cons=The con I can see so far is say I want to mill a 45 degree corner at the end of a piece of metal, I will have to remove the vice, remove the centre point, and swivel the vice, this is not the same as swivilling the bed as far as I understand, so I cannot achive this by swivelling the bed at 45 degrees seeing it then still travel around the spindle with vice squared to the bed.
-I am not sure how many times in future I will need to do this. If it becomes a nuisance I am back to square-1.
Next:The bed fine adjustment.
-I must get a larger precission square for initial lineup.
-I think i now understand the trade off/inter dependance of the vice jaw and the swivel bed alignment.
Next similar thing to do: I think next I am going to find a way to make 2x adjuster for the bed on the front side to calibrate tit 100% square without tapping the bed. I have an idea to make it so it can just flip out of the way should I want to swivel the bed to X- Degrees.
Note:I think if I say one can compare the swivel bed effect, like that of the lathe topslide degree adjustment and using it to cut at angle. If the cross slide is used, it does not cut at an angle, something like this for the mill.So if you swivel the bed, its not the same as swivelling the vice as you run the bed and cut.
Note:Just for interest sake seeing this is a swivel bed, say I have bought a fixed bed mill and the horizontal plane left to right-right to left is out by factory, I assume I will battle to get the vice trammed 100% square-??
Correct me where I am wrong in understanding this, will appreciate it.
|Thread: Milling collet choices|
I have a similar problem MT4 spindle however:My next buy is collets.
The dealer said ER32 is the most popular and will be good for my mill, however a guy I watch on Youtube has opted for ER42 collets on a smaller CNC modified mill, have not had asked him why not ER32....
|Thread: Tailstock cuck, keyless or not?|
I have two keyless chucks from different manufacturers.
I think the one in the lathe is the better one which I bought from a company that sells better tools than the normal chinese stuff....Did not had problems with this one up to 20mm holes. Never had to take it off to release.
The other one is in my larger drill press(Black colour) If I drill larger holes like 20mm it really pulls tight. I have to remove it clamp in a vice and use the spanner with it to losen the chuck.
You should get a spanner matching the chuck with it.
|Thread: What do you do about cookies?|
Operations I am used to, then its easy. I think key is to gain some awareness. I am not an expert, and my methods may have holes in them.
-Don't open unknown e-mails.If theres a link, theres may be a cookie coming.
-Services:Have services disbled that is not necessary for your operations.
-If you install -TCPView- from Microsoft, it will tell you interesting stories you did not know about.
--Disable "Show unconneted endpoints" for a more quick uncluttered view
-All the others said about cookies & history.....You can be selective if you dont wan't passwords lost.
-Be ready to disconnect/pull your cable to Router at lapop(Easy at laptop) or computer (Not always in sight), or have the Router placed so its easy to disconnect from there. If you see data going you dont expect pull the cable and investigate. Router=Ip changes on startedup if you dont have a fixed IP adress, so I dont leave the router connected if not used.
-Keep eye on TaskManager the Network part. If you don't upload specificly , the bytes received should always be way more than the bytes send. Or any new Taskmanager like on Win 10 etc. I once used this simple feature to prove which PC/Laptop was infected eating up a bussiness data every month, asked everybody to keep their Taskmangers going for a week.
-DDOS attack settings in Router: There may be a setting="Source IP Blocking" I found if this setting is checked it may mess with your experience in strange ways.
--I always, thanks to TCPView, keep Router disconnected but started, then start the Laptop, Login,-wait till it loaded, then open browser let it load fully(View taskmanager activity), then I connect the Router to Laptop. Now a lot of crap is not loaded.
-Look at you Router TX/RX lights for activity expected or not.
-Look at your Laptop/Computer Disk light activity for expected or unexpected activity. On my Win 10 Dell I have a small mirror placed to see disc activity. If your PC is -installing-updates you dont want to mess with it when the disc is active my experience
Note:Experience with a cookie many years ago(Somewhat Funny).
Sometimes my Computer locked up for no reason out of the blue, I have to reboot to clear.
-I found my disk activity is 100% leaving Taskmanager with nothing going on but Computer extremely slow actually, the disk running in circles.
-I then found its if I connected to a cetain News Website only.
-I proved its a cooke from this website, however I cannot delete it....After 3 days of headscratching I found a way.
The cookie cannot be deleted, but I could transfer it(Cut-Paste) to the A-Drive disc. I could not delete it then from there either. So I tool the A-Drive disc cut it with scissors and throw it in the rubbish bin literrally.
-I then never visted the site for months, and never had the problem again.
Edited By Chris Mate on 08/01/2022 04:54:49
Edited By Chris Mate on 08/01/2022 04:58:00
Edited By Chris Mate on 08/01/2022 04:59:05
Edited By Chris Mate on 08/01/2022 05:02:19
|Thread: Grinding cylindrical HSS for lathe tools|
How do your cylindrical toolholder clamp, do you grind a flat section in it and scew it secure in toolholder which will bring it same position everytime you re-install it in holder, and then grind the front tip angles & shape, or can it move around and you have to set it each time-?
Edited By Chris Mate on 07/01/2022 18:37:00