|Thread: Fiber optic cable|
Dave, something I see now where I live , I am still on ADSL, but can go over to Fibre tomorrow if I want, they call me every now and then, eventually I will have to. What I see now is our town, all the streets were dug up multiple times to lay new fibres by various companies, at least 5 it seems. Now the problem with this is, my opinion, its a waste of resources to duplication in the name of "compitition". Now as the history has shown , like with 4x cellphone companies erecting duplicate towers the same way, the cost just increased, not cheaper. If communications is considered a basic right, I would think one company, strictly controlled, no corruption could have done this for a fraction of the cost and still employed all or most of the people due to the scale of it, it worked wonderfull like that in the past. The other thing is the smaller and more the companies are, the more they stick to cities larger towns, and start neglecting smaller towns and remote areas, leaving those customers up for huge costs to have communication..............I think future banking/tax etc alone make it a basic right, and basic rights must be relative cheap, otherwise it implodes the monetary system over time.
I worked with double loop fibre systems with terminal boxes at sites in series(addresses) and back to the originating equipment. If one fibre fail(Wind, Accident, Joints, Fibre itself-age), it loops and isolate the failed part, then the fibre guys has the opertunity to repair that. The last one=Fibre itself-Age was the interesting one, the one that give headaches to all.
Now my experience was that the fibre works excellent for some years, then it gets older and older and start giving Age--intermittant problems....At this stage in the beginning, the scopes don't illustrate the problem clearly enough to make a new fibre replacement(Costly), so fibre faults are thrown back to techs on inside maintaining the equipment, where modules are replaced or tuned a bit, it may or may not help, its very confusing for all in the beginning of experiene with it. It escalates where problems start to cause total collapses of the entire system, due to the loopback intermittant as well, so everything goes dead, then it must be brought up in sections to determine more thn one problem and isolate them, then handed sections to fibre techs.
Selution=In the end the manageent agree its time to fork out the money(Forget about all the money already driven out on fuel over time.
Note:A new fibre can be repared when cut, but an old one that does not work reliably anymore(Grey area).
The reason I mention this is it would be interesting to see the battle in future between homeowner and Company as to when its time to replace the fibre(Costly for company).......Some charge you for callout if the fault is on your side, ...........I am refering to this age grey areas coming up.....
Edited By Chris Mate on 13/06/2022 16:27:06
|Thread: Battery fire in electric cars after a collision|
For me the difference between electric and fuel vehicles are, not everybody has a car, but the population numbers paints a picture over time.
1-Fuel vehicles grew with population growth up too over some years 7 Billion plus(Relative).
2-Electric vehicles start at 7 Billion plus(relative) growth rate, no years to speak of much-This is a huge difference not talked about at all.
Now the one is proven over time while the other is still a promise, and nobody is talking about replacing the batteries at some point, and at a scale to 7 Billion would you even find a battery, and will it still fit.
Vehices are most people 2nd largest cost, so in future could this bancrupt the middle class in debt with this-?
So can they manufacture an electric car if battery on fire(indication of heat-sensors), it drops out of the car, car pushed away, let the coolanrt run, battery handled seperately, The fire might start smallish before it explodes, like the electric car lays an egg..
Edited By Chris Mate on 12/06/2022 00:03:56
|Thread: Warning buyer beware|
Well, according to the description in my books this is just fraud, and I will treat it as tha, even 2nd hand because of the description.
I once ordered a multifix toolpost from a company with a beautifull website. The communication was fast. I paid in full. I kept all correspondence and screenprints of messages. Long story short, after 6 months I received nothing and CEO of company became evasive. I then sample all the evidence collected which included promices of early deliveries. I was about to write off the money, but then received it back in full after another two months. So the whole ordeal took 8 months. I aquired at the town the physical company was listed and his office at a mall, after which the mall owner indicated he does not know such a person, that was the 6 Months into it. This was before the pandemic, and the company closed soon afterwards.
A dead givaway is if communication becomes sluggish after payment.
So from that I decided no internet buy unless I can visit the company in the same province I live, and I never had a problem doing it that way so far.
|Thread: Advice on Belt Tensioners|
I once build a minature vehicle with 4x castor pump up wheels(with tubes) that look like normal tyres. Long story short it was strong enough to pull a car, and one person could not hold it back, speed 0 up to 25Km/h, it used a suzuki waterpumpump overhead valve engine with a centrificle clutch of old brittish green lawnmover, then a V-belt to a 50cc motorcycle gearbox(tuff)(Piston removed), I could change gears back and forth on the fly towing trailors. From the gearbox it was chain driven to the rear wheels to a shaft with a V-Pully on each end then a short V-belt to eack wheen with machined V-Pulley. Now here it slow turning high torgue. No diff, I however played around with where to tention the belts with a jocky pully. The belts were cheap, the tyres expensive. Now out of this spring tentioning I manage to get like a slip effect going around a corner slipping the belt on one wheel to save the tyres.
Initially I bought a bag full of various belts. Now the interesting part started. I tested this on a friens farm, and soon one belt failed after 15 minutes of use, it just stretched from heat called manufacturer-X. Now it took me some two days then to put 2 & 2 together and figured it was only this one make of belt. The belts I settled for was then called Gates-High Power.. It was unbelievable how long they lasted=They looses some of rubber on the inside after many trips but never stretched or broke.
The next interesting part was at work. Our airconditioner(Huge motor using 4x belts} never gave problems in this regard, belts always lasted full service life. Then we start getting failures of belts lasting not longer than 3 months here, they stretch and fell apart literally. On inspection, guess what, it was the same manufacurer I used and discarded... I notified the aircon staff, and they stop buying these, problem solved.
So there can be huge differences between V-Belt qualities when varying speed and high torgue is involved
My experience with V-Belts.
|Thread: More beginner questions|
When I started I bought a lathe to keep me busy after retirement. I did repair my own stuff over the years.
I started by watching youtube videos to:
1-Get the feel of it by looking at others.
2-How do they talk about everything, the sections of the lathe.
3-Safety:I watch accident videos, and from that I wired my chuck & toolpost keys a position with a trip switch beneath each in series with the lathe door protection switch, and add a foot switch below etc. So if the chuck or toolpost key is not in position, the lathe cannot start, if it runs and I pull out the key, it trips and needs to be reset, if the key lay around, it cannot start.
4-I then found sharpening the HSS bits confusing at 1st, till I decided which angle to grind 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc, then suddenly it becme easy. I then make a point of understanding how a tip should be grinded just to be able to cut, from there I grind any shape I need. I looked at stickout, height setting, carefull feed, .
5-Spacial awareness on a lathe. I make a big point, to be slow and patient not to crash the thing by how the crosslide is set and changed and then forget the tool may be back but the crosslide can run into chuck, spend time with lathe swwitch off and look at these crash possibilities. Also the auto feed can atch you out. Tailstock can be in the way etc.
6-You sort of lean in circles, never stopping. I can lean something from every body good or bad at it.
7-Got some tips from carreer machinist as well, thankfull for him making we aware of setting the lathe height so you work comfortable.
8-I the bought me a set of Nr-3 & NR-4 good quality magnifying glasses, the more expensive ones with the proper reading glass inserts. A vet thanked me the other day for making them aware of these glasses, Optivisor Original, they tested mine and immediate ordered it for them to use..
9-Lightning...Added lightning to my lathe to see properly.
10-And so I learn every day something from somebody somewhere, one can decide for yourself as well if it sounds ok depending on life experiences.
11-I think it will help if you have a clue going to somebody for assistance.
12-I never buy equipment new to me without lookig about it for 3 months.
Hope some of this helps...
Edited By Chris Mate on 01/06/2022 21:45:35
|Thread: Advice on Belt Tensioners|
Hi, I have modified my lathe with a spring tentioner for the direction I use 99% of the time(F). The purpose was to give the lathe a soft start, it works great. I give it slack in such a way at standstill the springed pulley press down on the belt top side right around the middle. Now if you start the lathe that 1st second the belt moves up from the drive torgue it provides a soft start on the gears(Chuck weight counter). I have no problem parting off, it will break the parting tool tip off you feed it wrong, so far no problems.
For reverse(R) I need to do the same from the bottom. Still working on the idea to have both together in one go with two pulleys, I think its possible but tricky.
Edited By Chris Mate on 31/05/2022 21:36:01
|Thread: More beginner questions|
That photo of the cut reminds me of a broken tip, but you will hear the difference between a sharp cutting tip on right height versus a broken tip or a tip sharpened unable of cutting, it will not sound good.
Edited By Chris Mate on 31/05/2022 21:26:36
|Thread: facing mill insert - what radius ?|
Here is what I just received for a 40mm shoulder mill as advised by Walter agent for use with my benchtop mill(2hp) for aluminium & metal, cast iron etc. You can look up the details. I am still waiting for the cutter(4x inserts).
Cutter=F4042.B16.040.Z04.08. : 6077954 Milling Cutters Walter BLAXX/Xtra tec
-ADMT080308R-F56 WKP35S. : 5886208 Milling Inserts 10 (Walter BLAXX/Xtra tec)
ADHT0803PERG88WK10 : ADHT0803PERG88WK10
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
I find the photo of Ruben Xaus most interesting, it illustrates centrifical forces(or whatever you want to call it) at play providing a huge stability factor to this situation(In this case its not about countersteering). In this case the rear wheel spinning freely much faster than the speed of the bike require to travel at that speed, however the rider need some guts & trust in his horsepower that he can actually pull that off on tar.
-If the rear wheel locks up, he is on an unstable dead brick capulting along.
-If the rear wheel should grip, he is on an unstable missle shooting away.
This reminds me of bikes and planes: Both can be described as dead or alive, each with its own ignorable and then dangerous secrets as a result.
-A motorcycle is dead weight below 15-20Km/h plus minus. It comes alive over 25Km/h, it has giroscopic forces at play then, and powerfull too, I can countersteer a bike in the direction I chose with a passenger leaning the other direction, now bikes with flimsy frames might scare you using handlebar..I used to test a motorcycle by slapping the handlebar to see how stable it is(carefully), if it scares me I walk away.
-A plane comes alive over say 70-130km/h or what ever the minimum speed for lift is stipulated, it has lift then. The pilots actually say "airspeed alive".
|Thread: Self extracting drawbar for mill|
I have ZX-45(ZX-7045) Drill/Mill a drill modified to be a mill, its better than trying to mill with a drill press, also manual=ZAY7045. I have a lot to buy before I can do all sorts of milling, waiting for a Walter Shoulder mill 40mm, it seems everything is out of stock now, was promised 7 days then after I paid its a month.
I will see if I can come back to this much later on if I need to. Thanks for all the info.
Edited By Chris Mate on 16/05/2022 14:02:09
Hi Old Mart, it seems for me seeing I have to insert it from the bottom with your successfull option, which is problematic for me. I did make an option that worked, but I had to tighten it with 4x 4mm grubscrews after inserting the drawbar from the top town, but it does not have the easy torgue yours would have, and seeing the drawbar is in centre of taper its difficult to clean the the taper.
I did setup a kennametal boring bar vertically mounted in a square block(I made one for each boring bar I got for toolpost), I can see I can bore this carefully, it might take very long because of stickout and somewhat dangerous operation. I abondioned this, because I dont know if the swarf could end up in the spindle bearing, seeing the manual says oiling/greasing it from the hole in the spindle for drawbar.
I am back at the One - Wack method, and to make this more satifying, I used an smaller handwheel from old tablesaw, machine it to take socket for original drawbar, it reminds me of the wheel on an old Singer knitting machine. So I tighten the drawbar whith handwheel take it off and use mill. Then mount it, loosen drawbar(no spanners), take it off, One WAck and MT4 is out. I think I have to stick to this then. I really liked your method, but not prepared to take mill apart yet.
Hi OLd Mart, it seems the part I dont understand correctly is how you assemble your new Drawbar with the Brass Nut, and if the threads in Brass Nut is different than the rest of the drawbar not like in my case the threads in the MT4 section you draw into the MT4 of the spindle.
Threads for taper tool......small space....threads for Brass Nut(Now glued in spindle pocket).......rest of drawbar through spindle......Top of Drawbar ......Nuts plus Long Nut.
If its the same, I may make the Brass Like part and use a short temporary bar screw it on, and insert/glue it to spindle small pocket............
If I can understand how exactly your drawbar components/threads arranged on it, I can figure out if it will work in my situation......There is no way I can insert it from the bottom at the required lenght without removing parts of the mill, however if I can use a temp short bar with screwed on Brass Nut, I can insert and glue it that way-??
Edited By Chris Mate on 14/05/2022 06:33:25
Hi, Old Mart.....I do not fully understand how you did exactly the following...
I bought a steel threaded bar from farm workshop 16mm same thread as original toolbar(I determined the olenght to accommodate all, hacksaw it off). At the top I added a long nut and lock it with a short nut just like you, in my case those go down in the spindle hole no problem. However I can only insert the bar from the top, its too long from the bottom, so if I want to copy what you did, I must hacksaw a short piece of drawbar, screw Bronze Nut on it, then position it with loctite into the spindle, then unscrew that, and screw the drawbar from the top.
1-Where exactly you cut the threads blank...I am not sure how you exactly went about this...
----In my case I think I dont need to cut threads blank.......? Its 16mm right through.
2-I assume your drawbar screw from the top through the Bronze Nut with a space as indicated into the in my case MT4 tool and you can tighten lock it as usual. If you unscrew the drawbar the pressure is in the treads of the Bronze nut forcing out the MT4 tool in my case....?
Some measuring will be necessary before any work is carried out.
I cut the thread on the 7/16" -(11.11mm)-en 19T drawbar blank on the lathe, and put about 2 1/2" -(50.8mm)-on either end.
I made the bronze nut (in black) long enough to Loctite securely with a flange thick enough to not be in any danger of breaking off.
Bernard, very little space actually.
Thanks for suggestion, I will look into re-turning such a shaped nut a bit thicker then, not sure how rough the top it needs to rest and bearing against actually is.......I wonder if a trustbearing could work with enough space and machined such ballsl/needles cant drop inwards, that would eliminate any drag as it presses the MT4 out.
Hi, thanks for showing this.
I spend some time trying to do this on my mill, however the mill I got do have a space, but the space is not squared, it goes V shape towards its top, so I machined a nut to fit there, screw it and lock it to the new drawbar, however if I try to loosen the MT4, the nut jams in the V somewhat, which throws off my torque feeling for loosing the MT4......It does work overcoming this, however it does not feel right. I can sort of seeing whats going on there through the 2x Wedge holes in the spindle.
My selution would be to machine the spindle square in that area if I can....I will think about this.
|Thread: What Did you do Today 2022|
Aligned my mill head a bit better: Vertical for X-axis movement to bed
So busy with facemill experiments, I decided to revisit my mill head tramming(Swivel part to zero mark) to seeif I can get it horizontally more precise so cutters cut front and rear as it moves.
-I did this by using a marked bit(No 1) on the facemill. I facemill a length long enough on aliminium.
-After the cut I measure the difference with feeler guages......Forward direction=.002".....After cut same tip turned by hand=.009". I got it to that by using by big square from bed and indicator moving quil up/down, the problem was fine movements of the head with a hammer was not something I liked..
-So today I got another idea:
-I used a shash clamp clamped to top of gearbox/head horizontally, now I have long leverage. It ends up very easy and light force to move head very controlable.
-I used a dial test indicator just to see movement, so the head must move clockwise a bit.
It was rather quik I end up with an easy adjust using the long end of clamp, after slacking the 3x retaing nuts of the head to column. This got me to within .001" according to feeler guages(Go no go). To get it more precise I think I would need one of those cylindrical indicators. I ordered a Walter 40mm shoulder mill/MT4 with 4x insert-type for aliminium & steel/cast iron. Receiving that I will relook at this and see how that design plays out, and how the finish may look.
Edited By Chris Mate on 17/04/2022 21:45:02
Edited By Chris Mate on 17/04/2022 21:46:52
Edited By Chris Mate on 17/04/2022 21:48:06
|Thread: Face milling on Warco Gearhead Universal (RF45 clone)|
I tried something today I thought about before but forgot about it,
I chose a lathe 12mm toolholder(Cheap chinese type)=PSBNR1215H09 with insert=41005V and bolt it just like that into the 80mm facemill brazed carbide cutter( brazed holders) and start cutting with the other 3 retracted.
This gave me a good finish as I could ever wished for. I rotate the insert for a new fresh point to cut, and it was only very slightly hardly noticable better. I took a no adjust finish pass in each case, on return it don't seem to cut.
I tried two 10mm shorter toolholders I though might work and gave good finish on lathe, but no it did not work, finish simmilar to original carbide holders before sharpening. I dumped the feeler guage method and bolt them with scratch method on work to holder-This was the best result from the brazed carbide holders but dont match the Lathe toolholder results.
I saw a video from DoubleBoost where he re visited an indexable facemill 50mm I think and did a scratch test on work to see if all inserts cut. They all did make contact, but did not remove the same with of material, I thought this was interesting.
Edited By Chris Mate on 10/04/2022 17:22:12
Edited By Chris Mate on 10/04/2022 17:23:34
Edited By Chris Mate on 10/04/2022 17:27:17
80mm Facemill cutter with x brazed carbide tips:
I assume this is not by ar a good cutter compared to indexable cutters. I used feeler guage to line up tips, which I know is not 100% ideal, but the Dial Test indicatoe here don't really work for me lining up the tips.
Hi, I carried out the following further experiment with a 80mm facemill cutter with 4x brazed carbide tips I got with mill before I venture out and buy a indexable cutter wait for options from dealer.
1-I used a 30x30mm aliminium bar about 15cm long clamped in vice. I took 0.1mm cuts and find it to be rough and it keeps on cutting les and less going through it up to x times without adjusting depth further.
On removing and inspection of bits they were blunt and tips weared off from 5mm steel I cut off before.
2-I resharpen them with a dremill diamond blade..Thats what I had and it works great.The tips were sharp.
-I found it now cuts freely, however even my cranking speed as slow as I can do with hands, it still leave scratch marks....Tips too sharp. I noticed on cranking X-axis back it hardly re-cuts with sharpen tips.
3-I then sharpen tips again with small roundish corner. Now I get a much better surface finish, and dont need to recut actually, but if I do it takes off onle where I probably cranked with varying speed.
4-I then resharpen tips again with a mouch rounder point, and now I start to get the finish I was looking for.
Its cutting freely at 0.1mm cuts. I also tested this on metal and was surprised as well.
5-Next step is to resharpen at even more larger round tips.....
The dealer suggest I buy a 50-60mm cutter, choices to make, however I was thinking if IN stick to a 80mm cutter the surface speeds will be higher for same revelutions of mill, and that may benifit me cutting larger areas as well as smaller more interrupted ones.......Not sure yet. I am now a bit confused about which inserts on indexable cutters-??
|Thread: DRO----How accurate|
Hi, Niel Lickfold..........I accept that my mill is not perfect and a drillpress with a X/Y bed fitted at best.
As far as I can see its not that if my mill bearings are ball bearings(I was told it had taper roller bearings, however the bogus manual with it says ball bearings. I think for what I got, I am happy to get a way around the problem messing with the Dial Indicator when I lock the quil, actually at .01 I cannot see movement at the tip of the spindle when this is happenning with a .01 Test Dial Indicator, however I accept if I use a .001 Test dial indicator I might very well see something. I think whatever there is, the way the quil function at best up & down in a sleave situation, it amplifies the further from the centre you mount your indicator for use to see where you going by using the fine adjust, of course you cannot monitor the centre of the spindle because its turning.
Ignore bearing problems for this argument, those can be considered "faults", however the Quil/Spindle relationship might be just an engineering crossroads.
I see it this way, and mabe wrong here: A Lathe's spindle does not have this type of a problem, because it does not have a quil, or any other spindle that does not have a quil its permanently locked. My point is with the quil at best, it will show some deflection because you monitor the quil and not the spindle, and a quil moving up and down, cannot ever be better as the best bearings made.
My question is do you think if the quil is as good as it can get("Perfect", you will have/can have zero deflection if you lock it-? I am trying to seperate an engineering issue due to desighn from faults.