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Member postings for Twf

Here is a list of all the postings Twf has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Super 7 stiff feedscrews
28/10/2021 09:15:50

Micheal, mine does indeed have the two gib blocks instead of strips.

Prior to fitting them, I span the nuts up and down the threads and they seemed fine. With the old feedscrews they were lovely and smooth in action, they just had noticeable slip backwards and forwards.

May have to make a phone call!

Edited By Twf on 28/10/2021 09:16:08

28/10/2021 07:22:09

Yes, they came from “Myford” in plastic bags with the yellow and blue cardboard headers on, purchased last week for £110 or so the pair.

I have oiled the thread copiously and worked them back and forth a number of times to no avail.

28/10/2021 05:52:33

I recently purchased new imperial top and cross slide feedscrews and nuts from Myford /RDG for my mid 60’s Super 7 to replace the incredibly worn originals.

After fitting both feedscrews and nuts, the operation of both top and cross slides is very stiff (I haven’t adjusted any gib strips). It is worse the more they are screwed in, and in one revolution of the screws, they both seem to have a stiff part and a smoother part. I have adjusted the adjusting collars to provide varying degrees of clearance, with no avail. If I undo the two cap head screws slightly which hold the end plates on, I get an improvement but still not great.

Can anyone offer any advice? Many thanks.

Thread: Back gear and bull wheel for myford ml7
20/06/2021 00:22:43
Posted by Howard Lewis on 18/06/2021 15:58:24:

Ady 1,

You probably get away with it because, as a recent post, showed the Drummond gears are getting on for half as wide again as the Myford ones.

For Myford owners, there are the various already suggested ways, Hexagon bar in chuck, socket and long power bar; bar through chuck jaws; drilled chuck backplate and long steel arm with pin in the end. (The method that I use with a larger lathe) and a smart tap on the outer end with a mallet..

A smart bash on the end of the arm usually frees the chuck, if not a second whack usually does the trick, without risk to the gears.

Howard

My method on a Myford is to clamp a 1/2” drive 10mm Allen hex socket in the chuck and use makita 1/2” impact driver, never fails. I removed a chuck that had been stuck on ML7 since 1960 like this recently, unscrewed it instantly.

Thread: Ml7 cross slide lead screw needed
23/05/2021 14:24:19

Thanks for replies- I have looked on RDG website and they don’t have them listed.

Unusually, mine isn’t worn, it has snapped! Something was knocked off a shelf above the ML7 and landed on the crossslide handle, which snapped clean off taking with it the last 1/2” of the feed screw, and shattering the Mazak nut in the process! I have a replacement Mazak but haven’t yet located a replacement feed screw.

Thread: Any info on this?
22/05/2021 23:19:31
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 22/05/2021 10:19:46:

I wondered if it's for pulling a telephone line or power cable up to the crossbar on top of a pole. Possibly, with the long chain attached to the cable in the ground, the linesman braced the squared edge of the winch against the crossbar and hauled the heavy cable up. The ratchet allows him to gather breath!

If a lineman's tool, it dates back to men doing everything with ladders. The chaps repairing overhead power cables in the village recently used a cherry picker.

Dave

I am an overhead linesman, we still use spikes and ladders if needs be!

Overhead power cables are under a lot of tension and require the use of winches, rated pull lifts and strops due to achieve the required tension. The minimum rated pull lifts we use are 0.5T off the top of my head, used for low voltage cables.

Thread: Ml7 cross slide lead screw needed
22/05/2021 21:43:36


I’m trying to sort out an old ML7 - the cross slide lead screw has been damaged many years ago. They aren’t listed on myford (rdg)’s website, any ideas on where I might pick one up? Are there any dealers who dismantle machines?

I also need one of the black plastic bushes that fit on the countershaft and allow the alloy cover section to slide on the countershaft housing.

Thanks.

Thread: Pillar drill motor size?
18/05/2021 19:22:04

Thankyou for the replies

The spindle is definitely bent on the 0.5hp motor - I removed the armature and set it up in lathe and it was over 1mm out, this combined with the Boxford’s very tall pulley causes a real wobble. With the motor on the bench and plugged in it really vibrates hence me swapping it out.

I have had to replace the capacitor in the 0.33 Brooks motor however once fitted, it runs true and is nice and smooth. I will give it a go and see how it fares - it hasn’t cost me anything other than £10 for the new capacitor.

The Boxford does 82rpm in lowest gear which is handy for drilling stainless.

18/05/2021 09:08:09

I have a Boxford pillar drill which was originally fitted with a 0.5hp 3ph motor, but was converted to a single phase motor some years ago.

The motor currently fitted to it is a 0.5hp AEI, however at some point it appears to have been dropped and the spindle is slightly bent causing the pulley to wobble slightly when running, and resulting belt debris.

I have just acquired a very old but unused Brook Crompton motor of exactly the same dimensions and spindle size to replace the bent motor, however I have just realised that this new replacement is only 0.33hp, not 0.5hp as was originally fitted. Is this lower powered motor likely to cause me any problems in use (I drill mainly stainless steel plate up to 12mm diameter holes at slow speed using the drill back gear)

I assumed the Brook crompton motor being physically the same size or actually a little larger than the AEI was the same hp rating!

Thanks

Thread: New Jacobs Chuck keys
14/05/2021 18:58:05

Many thanks for the replies, however, amazingly, while rummaging through some boxes of old Morse taper drill bits, I came across both missing chuck keys! Normally this happens after I be ordered a replacement for s9meth8ng I have mislaid!

14/05/2021 06:54:42

I need to buy a couple of new chuck keys for some old Jacobs chucks that I have.

Are the new Jacobs manufactured keys (presumably made in China) any good or am I better off buying some new old stock Jacobs Sheffield made keys at twice the price?

thanks.

Thread: Boring 16mm hole in stainless bar
03/05/2021 22:57:01

I have been using CT90 oil. In all honesty the 16mm drillbit is a cheap and nasty thing. I think my boring bar is larger diameter than 12mm, I will have to check.

Thankyou

03/05/2021 22:03:35

I need to make up a couple of 50mm spacers out of 32mm 316 stainless round bar, with a 16mm hole bored through each. I had a go today at making one as a test, I used 6mm Cobolt drill bit in tailstock of my Super 7 with the back gear engaged on the second slowest speed, then moved up to a 12mm Cobolt drill bit with no issues. The only 16mm drill bit I had was one of the reduced shank “blacksmith” drill bits, which eventually chewed and scraped its way through, but left a very poor finish.

Presumably I want to be splashing out on a 16mm Cobolt drill bit?

Thanks

Thread: Myford ML7 headstock belt length
28/04/2021 18:29:49

Before I bought a super 7 I had a standard ML7 approx ten years ago and Myford supplied me with a belt that was too tight, I had to use a belt .5 larger than I was supplied, purchased from Simply Bearings at a fraction of the cost!

I would be interested to hear what you go for as I have another ML7 I picked up recently in desperate need of new belts.

Thread: Stand for milling machine
28/04/2021 18:26:36

Thank you for all the replies.

I am lucky enough to own a large workshop fully equipped with MIG and TIG, so will be a welded steel box section stand, probably 1.5” section, taking into account all of the above.

The mill is currently sat on a steel workbench but I would rather relocate it onto its own stand and reclaim part of the bench back!

28/04/2021 07:24:29


I recently purchased a Warco WM14 off a friend who had purchased it new but never used it. He kept the Warco stand himself for use as storage so I need to build a stand for the machine; I looked at buying a new stand from Warco however they are out of stock of them, and once delivered would cost more than I paid for the machine itself.

I still have the swarf tray so was going to fabricate an open sided steel box section stand around the same dimensions as the original stand but try and firm it up a bit and bolt it to the floor (the original stand is to be honest, a rather flimsy affair).

Are there any do’s and dont’s for building a stand I need to take into account before I start?

Thanks.

Thread: Two Myfords
16/04/2021 19:12:10

Thanks for advice.

The Super 7 is in good order cosmetically, just very worn at the front of the bed.

The ML7 bed is in good condition with no rust issues as was covered in oil, however the chrome has completely disintegrated off all the handles, and most of the moving parts are seized. I rescued it from it’s damp shed as a potential restoration project some time ago,

I think it would be a shame to break them up as swap bits around, I will look into getting the super7 reground.
Can the cross slide take a re- grind as well as the bed?

Thread: Threaded milling cutters
16/04/2021 13:43:26

Apologies, my mind was failing me, the cutters are not tapered, they are all straight with a threaded end. There are various ones marked “STR-SHK Sllot drill” made by Osborn, which I presume stands for “straight shank”. They all vary in size so still unsure of what chuck system to hold them.

thanks

Thread: Two Myfords
16/04/2021 07:34:26

I have had a mid 60’s Super7 for many years which I have used for tinkering with. When I bought it I believe I was told it was ex factory as it was three phase, quick change gearbox, with full stand, splashback, suds pump, collet chuck, Tripan toolpost and lever operated tailstock. As such the bed has significant wear at the headstock end.

I also have a very basic ML7 from early 60’s which was one owner and hardly used, however is extremely tatty as was left in a damp shed for three decades and requires a full restoration.

It has entered my head that I could potentially swap the beds over and make one good lathe using all the super 7 parts fitted to the ML7 bed. Is this a feasible idea, I have searched the internet and it looks like it could be done, but half of me thinks it would be a shame to start swapping bits over.

Thread: Threaded milling cutters
15/04/2021 21:33:53

I recently bought a two year old second hand but unused Warco VM14 milling machine (I couldn’t refuse it at £250!)

I have also been given a selection of various used Galtona milling cutters, all of which are tapered but with threaded portions at the top - these appear to be in a few different sized tapers. I have just purchased “Milling for beginners” book which does have these threaded type cutters pictured but I am still unsure what I need to fit them to the MT2 taper of the VM14, or do I start afresh with a new set of tools?

Thanks.

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