Here is a list of all the postings Luker has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Ballaarat construction series|
Hi Simon, yep you spot on, I used 8.4. I model in metric so I use a gauge rail multiplier and generally clean up the dimensions as I build. This is a little different to the designers that model inch to the foot. There are a few notable deviations including the wheel and flange which is to the ME standard and the cylinders aren't to scale. The cylinders are different because scale cylinders would have been too small for the boiler etc. I do a few simulations and based on the results of those the boiler is matched to the smokebox and cylinders etc. Then all the linkages are updated for a hard working loco (out track is a little rough!).
|Thread: LBSC 440 Virginia|
No, the axlebox should rest on the keeper plate unloaded. Normally the running position is on the center line of the cylinders.
With the axels its up to you. You'll ask 5 different people and you'll get as many answers. Personally for my 3.5g I used retaining compound. For my 5g locos I use press fits and if I undershoot I just use a little retaining compound on that wheel. My 71/4g is keyed and press fit.
You going to find many mistakes on any build, but the fact that these locos were built is a good indication that any problem can be solved! looking forward to more pics!
The 8 wheeler (what the Americans used to call the 4-4-0) is a fantastic loco to model. Well worth it!
The large scale had a recess cut-out at the bottom of the boiler by the back axel-box which is easy to do in the model when you get to that point. The blower can be moved to the back.
Changing the pan heads for CSK should solve the clash you spoke of with the wheels. On the large scale these hangers went through the frames not round them, which gave more clearance. The front driver with the eccentric’s should have just enough play for suspension movement. The back can have a little more. Provided the front bogie can swivel and move laterally the loco will stay on even the tightest bends.
You need to decide early on how you're going to fit the reversing lever (Johnson bar). Some connect to the boiler and others to the frames. With our little boilers connecting to the boiler is probably second choice.
If you keen to spend a little more time on the build it is worth it (in my humble opinion) to make the suspension prototypical which is fully compensated. You would need to modify or remake the equalizer bar and replace the springs, but the loco will glide over even the roughest track.
My two cents worth…
|Thread: Ballaarat construction series|
Hi Ron, I never did an article on the wobbler. It is very simple! It was designed to be made by sales guys that had never machined anything, for a course I presented many years ago (for fun). There are many better designs out there, but if you want the drawings you are welcome to them. I might need to make a few notes for you, as the drawings specifically omit one dimension that was up to the class to work out (and find). There were a couple of other outcomes of the course besides the machining for example engine balance, low vs high rev's etc. One of the builds are in the video below...
|Thread: Soldering a front tube plate|
Hi Fizzy, I watched the second video of Blondihacks and I thought the end result came out ok. I'm a little curious as to what you mean by eutectic?
|Thread: Passing of a Fine Modeller and Engineer|
Uncle Nick, as I used to fondly refer to him, was my mentor and friend. He was one of the first people at the RSME to help me steam up my very first loco. He always had time for the youngsters, encouraging us and sharing his hard earned knowledge freely when needed. Uncle Nicks loco’s were built to an astonishing standard; the meticulous detail and strict proportions keeping everything to scale made each loco something to marvel at, and they all ran beautifully. Up until COVID, Uncle Nick would still bring a loco to the RSME for a few laps and to talk to the other members. You would’ve needed to attend every meet for over a year before you saw every loco he had built. One of his loco’s ‘The Springbok’ is on page 7 of Martin Evans, ‘the Model Steam Locomotive’. I was fortunate enough to drive his 16DA on one of our club days; if precision equipment were a model loco the 16DA would be it. I will miss him very much.
Uncle Nick and me with his 16DA; the day I was fortunate enough to take it round our track.
|Thread: Transporting 5 inch live steam loco|
My transport system... Single sturdy transport frame interconnecting with everything else.
|Thread: Ballaarat construction series|
I see the guys at ME have posted the Ballaarat GA (very good quality) on the front page of this site, thanks guys! Should print out nicely...
As a side note my drawings have the design tractive effort, cylinder sizing etc. on the GA but this is generally removed for print.
Check the 'look out for...' blocks at the bottom of the page or click the link below (this should work)...
Edited By Luker on 13/10/2021 12:22:08
Of course! I think I've added the missing dimension you're looking for, and updated the drawing (and mine). There's bound to be more as you go; please give me a shout and I'll update the drawings, and add it to the forum. Please post pictures as you go!
The young lad mentioned in the beginning of the Ballaarat series is moving along nicely with his build. Bearing in mind he never went to a technical school, nor has he decided to follow a career in engineering, his model engineering skills are moving along incredibly fast. I asked him to write a piece for our little club newsletter and one of his statements struck home and I thought it was rather inspirational: “This hobby sucks when you do things wrong the first time or two but it’s amazing when you finally get it right.” He sent me a picture of one of the wheels, machined according to the instructions in the articles. The picture shows him checking the profile with a gauge I designed to make life a little easier. Looks pretty good to me (in fact spot on!). The eccentrics came out nicely as well. Well done, young man!
|Thread: TIG welded copper boilers|
Hi Ian, I think I may have caused some confusion and I apologise. The point I was trying to make was that; as a Mickey Mouse welder with a Mickey Mouse setup I was able to TIG weld a copper boiler that has been running for many years. Whereas a well-known UK based professional boiler manufacturer failed dismally to understand some rudimentary basics in physical metallurgy, and joint design.
I've always thought the idea of model engineering was to develop as many artisan type skills as possible, and the best way to do that is to give everything a bash. Welding, like machining, is one of those skills that can be developed and honed by reading a few books and practice.
I would encourage anyone to give boiler manufacture a bash (this includes TIG welding copper). If the club has members that guide and help the builder, and a boiler inspector that keeps up with modern manufacturing techniques I can see no reason for a ‘poor boiler’ outcome. If on the other hand the boiler inspectors are not knowledgeable enough and are unwilling to up skill; that is an entirely different matter…
My understanding is the UK code [The Boiler Test Code. 2018. Volume 1- Boilers 3 bar litres to 1100 bar litres.] does not require the welder to be qualified but samples do need to be submitted to the boiler inspector to check competency, as it should be. The Australian code [AMBSC Code Part 4 Duplex steel boilers] does require a rather stringent welder qualification (AS1796 with a minimum of two years’ experience) but even there an amateur can weld his own boiler under instruction from a qualified person.
I have very little respect for certifications and markings. Exceptional designers and builders very seldom make good bureaucrats and I have yet to meet a bureaucrat that can do anything other than talk.
We had a CE UK professionally built Romulus boiler that one of our members imported with all the necessary paperwork. I had a look at it and wasn’t impressed with the welds; as a general rule you don’t TIG weld hot rolled boiler plate without the correct prep-work. It lasted a few runs and failed (quite badly) in the firebox. The supplier was of course very distresses, sorry and would fix it free of charge as long as shipping was covered by the buyer, and another two years waiting; the normal BS (bureaucrats speech). I made the comment that if they couldn’t do it with clean plate there was no chance of them fixing a steamed boiler. He eventually decided to have one of our builder’s fix it and it’s been running ever since (think it cost a good bottle of something nice!).
Lucky for us our boiler inspector is a qualified engineer who has designed and built a few boilers and between him and the other members (who have built locos) any new members are guided through the design and construction of their boiler. In the end each boiler has walked a careful path and the data book is kept with the boiler inspector with the welding samples etc.
I would encourage all model builders to constantly try new manufacturing methods and techniques to improve the hobby and hone their skills! The boiler inspectors should follow suit, and if needs be, up skill...
I design the joints so that back purging isn't necessary.
I just use a gas torch, so does heavy industry. Shouldn't really be moving a chunk of copper at that temperature; not much mechanical strength for moving. It doesn't seem to be an issue with CuO reducing relatively easy. Interestingly if you watch copper melt in a furnace it melts like ice, where brass or LG tends to leave a shell which needs to be skimmed.
Hi Nigel, I've yet to come across a piece of copper I couldn’t weld. Most copper nowadays is suitable for welding, and I have never had any issues (if the copper contains enough oxygen you'll get porosity in the weld so you’ll pick it up very quickly). I’ve even done some minor cosmetic repairs to my copper castings using TIG.
I have a normal DC welder (200Amps) and have never had power input issues with the boilers I’ve welded. Interpass and preheat temperature should be kept to above 400DegC, and as with silver solder you need to insulate the boiler to prevent excessive heat loss. My humble opinion: if you can build a fine model, TIG welding copper is easy…
|Thread: Name plate etching for my neighbour|
Sorry, artwork was done in ms-word, with images from the web superimposed onto each other and the names simple built in word-art overlaid on the group.
Hi Brian, of course! I did a full write-up on my method in Model Engineer some time back (not sure of the issue number though). Basically it’s an electro-stripping process with a toner print on a transparency (or any other flat plastic) and transferred on a stove. My article says to use a cell phone charger and CuS but these were rather large and I doubt the power and volts would have been adequate, so I used an old power supply (12v) from a computer. They roughly the size of the current emblems on the bike...
My neighbour has gone away for a little R&R and left his two Harleys for safe keeping at my place, with the express instruction to give them a go. Won’t argue with that; and as a thank you I quickly made up a pair of backrest name plates for both bikes… Some real customizing!
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