Here is a list of all the postings Graham Halstead has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Boxford max useable Chuck size|
Thanks gents great help and a few things to consider from your experiences.
will take a look at the options you’ve all proposed.
good idea on the reversing soft jaws. Guide slots for the jaws in my 3 jaw run at an angle.
I’ve searched this site and it’s probably been covered but can’t find answers to the questions below. Could someone point me to a thread if this has been covered or help with the below questions ?
Chuck size (height bed to centre of spindle on my machine circa 130mm) I understand the need to clear the jaws when full out.
Best Buy for Chuck and boxford backplate to fit
3 jaw or 4 jaw self centreline?
|Thread: Boxford electrical problem|
New belts and bearings for pulley shafts fitted yesterday. Was really happy with the progress yesterday and managed to turn some parts. Brilliant it all seems to work. I’m sure there’s lots more to do and cover. Thanks to everyone again for the valued support and advice. The Boxford lives on,!
such a great feeling to be able to use it now.
Hi yes was confused why you would want a diving type device with a centre, makes more sense to have a Chuck like you say. There is a notch cutout I n the Centre with a grub screw lock something in. Yes the gears are for the boxford. Vertical mill slide is a good one to have. It was seized but stripped and found the dovetail locking side grub screws were solid and locking the slide. Managed to get them out all bar 1 and drilled that out, full clean and strip and re oil and works well now. Think it’s ok with only 2 of the 3 screws in. I don’t have a spare. The other bits of kit are confusing for sure. Definitely some form of indexing that can be locked.
can’t find the motor part number at all online so guessing it’s nit made anymore. It’s not the original motor for sure.
old drive belt off now and doing bearings on pulley shafts. Label on motor is a stuck on one that is scratched up so can’t see the HP of it. Will post a pic. Old drive belt to head stock was so soaked in oil could almost ring it out.
Many thanks all about QCTP and your advice. Very grateful for the wisdom and experience. I’m not doing huge amounts of machining but I would get fed up setting up tool height all the time I wanted to swap a tool in and out. I’m probably at the light engineering end of the spectrum so not into a lot of steels and heavy cuts so it would work. It is an investment as they aren’t cheap. I hate buying kit that fails or is just poorly made. It’s not something I need to decide on right now, drive belt arrived so have a couple of days holiday , so going to try to get the old gal up and running and in a more fit state to then use in anger. Really happy the electrical issue turned out to not be a huge problem. Thanks to you all again.
where do you guys buy most of your materials from? I would be looking mostly at the aluminium alloys and maybe some small stainless for top hat bushes etc.
metals 4u and places like that don’t seem too costly.
starting to bring back the days of my youth and apprenticeship memories. I remember well when apprentices used to present their hard worked on parts only to have it thrown down the shop if the instructor found one burr on it. Certainly taught you to deburr ! Loved it all tho and so glad I did it and the days when apprenticeships were proper ones. If only I could remember half of it now.
went for this hope it’s the right one!
Hi thanks for the info on the tumbler gears. Seems so obvious now and I feel like a right idiot. The lever on the side I thought was to do with speeds as it’s by the speed range label and shows the lever. I’ve twigged it’s the lever on the top of the machine on the label. Yes I do need a book! Many thanks for the offer Tony. I’ve just emailed the chaps widow to see if he had the paperwork on the machine , I’m sure he had it somewhere. If she finds something great, if not I will let you know Tony and pay to get your copy. I will do some more research as it’s definitely needed. Thanks for the link also. Appreciate the offer.
used to grind my own tools back in the day, so will have to brush up on those angles. I do have a bench grinder so that will help. It’s got the original tool clap on the top and not a quick change height adjustable tool post. Would be much easier with a height adjust quick change, anyone recommend a conversion or kit that fits direct to Boxford? Just watched Enots engineering on YouTube and rebuild of boxford . Would be great to be able to do that level of strip and rebuild. I have a hill climb car to build so maybe save that one for retirement!
Thanks all. So managed sometime on the lathe. So I can run in lower gearing without cutting out. Ran for a while yesterday and then was able to run highest pulley speed. Cold weather I expect being the issue on motor load. Seemed ok once everything had warmed up. I did however encounter the next problem. Just taking a cut and the Chuck slowed and actually stopped. Slipping headstock drive belt arrggg!. Took the cover off and sure enough belt looks pretty old and oil contaminated as I see they do after some years from my internet searching. Decided to order a new T belt. Hopefully fairly easy fit. Any advice on that? Will try and get motor spec today with a mirror. I may overhaul bearings and get new v belts while I am at it just to make it more robust as it rattles along so I think it’s all pretty worn. Bearing replacement looks straightforward?
It may sound stupid but in fwd the Chuck turns right direction but lead screw for the main bed , drives the bed left to right which just seems wrong to me. Couldn’t see a means of switching lead screw direction in dependant of Chuck rotation direction.
will take a look at the milling screw , as you say I could try and straighten, seems a decent vertical mill slide and not a Chinese copy . Might even be a boxford original, I looked and nearly fell over when I saw what they fetch on eBay.
Many thanks to you all. Very helpful advice and things to check. I hadn’t even thought of most of the things that have been suggested. I won’t be able to try the ideas for a few days probably the weekend . I will report back on my findings. Can’t wait to get to use the lathe . I have a car project waiting for some bits to get turned. I’m still going through the lovely chaps old tools and trying to work out what is what. I have a milling slide but looks like the screw has been bent at some stage so it does not really work too well. I was hoping to be able to do some simple turn mill ops. I guess if I had my old skills back when I was an apprentice long ago I could have made a new screw. I push a mouse around for a living these days so lost so much of what I learnt back then.
I had run out of where to go to find help and then I remembered this website when I was searching for machining tips some time ago. So glad I joined and was able to tap into a huge knowledge base.
Will update you all soon
Hi many thanks for all the great advice.
im new to owning a lathe, so the terminology is foxing me a bit so please bare with me . I will try all your suggestions. Where would I find the contractor switch. Is there something I should do like. Good strip and clean of the gears etc to help reduce friction etc. I’m guessing there much be a fair bit of of gunk causing high load on start or a tired old motor? Happy to strip some bits and clean if your think it would help in certain areas. I’m not too bad with a pair of spanner’s but electrics are not my strong point. If I knew where the contractor is situated I could take a look at it. Apologies again for any stupid questions I have. I doubt the machine has had a good strip and clean and regrease for along time. I’ve pumped the grease ports when I did the clean of it. The grease on the back gears looks very sticky old and dirty.
I would probably feel ok about spending the money on a new motor or upgrade if one exists that would fit in without too much trouble.
Was the left hand 5 belt pulley end that I disconnected so the shaft and bearings seem ok. Albeit fair bit of play in the bearings due to age,
Hi everyone thanks for you kind words and help. I removed the drive belt and it ran fine no problems. As soon as I attach tthe belt the machine cuts out after 10 seconds. So maybe a clue. When it runs with the belt on it sounds like a whirring oscillating sound rather than a constant one. Sounds constant with belt off. I don’t remember it whirring like this before when I first got it, I did give the lathe a good clean. Did not remove any gears tho, maybe I’ve knocked something ?. Cant see any label on the motor so can see it’s HP. I don’t think it’s very powerfull. It running of mains so I’m guessing it’s a single phase motor. Sorry photos don’t show much very little access to see the motor .
im new to the forum. I have inherited an old boxford CUD III lathe from a great old friend who died recently.
the lathe works of 240v. It seems to work fine when I moved it into my garage, albeit I switched it in for 5 mins to try everything.
now when I switch the power on it runs for about 10 seconds and stops. The motor Doesn’t sound as quiet as I remember first time I ran it so maybe that’s a sign.
If I leave it and switch the mains power off and on again it will run again for 10 seconds or so.
can anyone help and suggest what the issue may be or has come across this problem. I have no circuit diagram for the lathe. I have a volt meter and can do some basic electrics. Is there some sort of overload trip. I am running via an extension reel, which seems ok when I first tested the lathe. I wondered if this could be the issue. I tried another shorter reel and different wall socket and same issue.
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