Here is a list of all the postings John Templeman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Advanced Grinding Rest|
Hi Guys many thanks for the comments and many thanks to S.O.D who kindly rotated the pics to the correct orientation. I intend to make the additional holders for the rest but I am currently resting on my laurels so to speak. I have ordered a large selection of bolts etc from a company called bolt world so waiting for those to arrive. In the meantime everything is going in the sonic bath ready for blueing etc.
Good Evening All,
I have just completed my first major project on the lathe and mill. I have built myself an Advanced Grinding Rest using the plans from Harold Halls book Milling A Complete Course. I have to say I really enjoyed the project and found some aspects of it really challenging. Now that it is built I am going to strip it down and cold blue some of the components and polish others. I also need to source some countersunk screws for the table as I currently don't have any the correct size. I have attached some photos of it currently and will add some more when I am happy with the final finish (sorry for the orientation of the pics)
Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 07/04/2022 08:39:39
|Thread: Warco GH18 Milling Machine|
I think it was a combination of muck, burrs on the guide pin and also on the keyway.
You can check the guide pin by just removing it with the quill in situ as it just unscrews, if it is a bolt turned down like mine was you may find that it improves by replacing it with a properly machined pin.
I think the main issue however is the backlash in the fine feed mechanism which you can mostly fine tune out by adjusting the tension spring and also slackening and repositioning the block on the the right hand side of the head.
Hi dropping the quill was very simple. I drained the gearbox of oil, lowered the head as far as it would go on to some wood to protect the table undid the spring loaded tensioner on the left hand side this is the fiddliest part of the operation as the spring has a tab with a slot in it that you have to remove from a screw that is in the shaft of the lowering mechanism.
Then undid the four bolts on the block holding the fine feed and main feed. This allows you to slide the quill lowering mechanism out from the head, I then slowly raised the head while supporting the quill, on the left hand side of the head in front of the tensioning spring you will see where the guide pin is screwed into the head you have to remove this to allow the quill to slide out of the head (there are two allen screws in this hole). The whole operation can be completed in under twenty minutes.
I manufactured a new guide pin, deburred the keyway and also inside the head where the quill slides up and down. Re assembling is just the reverse of the above operation, my mill is now better than it was, not perfect I hasten to add but definitely improved.
If you watch the youtube channel Machining With Joe he has done a video of the above operation on a Warco mill (not a GH18) but it is an identical setup to ours. Let me know if you have any issues and I will try to assist, although I doubt you will have any as it is a very simple operation.
Edited By John Templeman on 05/02/2022 06:42:26
I have now manufactured a new guide pin as the original one was a bolt turned down so was a very sloppy fit in the keyway, new SKF bearings ordered, hopefully be here for weekend. Then I will rebuild and hopefully all will be good.
An update on my post from yesterday, out of sheer frustration I decided to drop the quill assembly out of the head and found that there is some slight scoring on the outer sleeve that runs up and down inside the casting of the head.
On further investigation I have found some very slight burring on the inside of the casting where the guide screw enters and also round the area where the rack and pinion is exposed to locate on the quill this would I believe create enough drag to be the cause of my problems.
My plan going forward is to remove said burring and also whilst the head is in bits so to speak, replace all the bearings in the shaft/quill and gearbox. So hopefully future proof my mill.
Hi Guys I am having some very frustrating issues with my mill regarding the fine feed adjustment.
Every time I adjust the depth of cut the quill drops 0.5mm I then have to wind back take up the backlash and then reset the depth again. This problem manifests its self virtually every time I adjust the cut depth and to be honest it is making the mill very inaccurate and difficult to use. Has anybody else experienced this issue and managed to rectify any advice or suggestions are vey welcome.
|Thread: Hi Everyone New Member Here|
Well after a few hours in the shed here is the fruits of my labour and I have to say I'm chuffed to bits. It looks good (to my untrained eye) and more importantly it fits the lathe and is fully functional. I don't think I have made any mistakes although I did have to mill a couple of thou off the body to get the clamp plate to slide freely but apart from that no issues. I think tomorrow I am going to give it a through degreasing and then have a go at blueing it. The photo below shows the rough form being cut from a disc of steel
Merry Christmas All,
I have been unable to use my lathe since my last post as I have been waiting for delivery of a dro from machine-dro for it and it seemed mad to set it level and true and then have to move it to install the new equipment, so I have used the time to renew the gear box oil and oil all the other points. I have also tried to familiarize myself with the controls and levers. I have now installed the dro which was an absolute doddle to do being as it was the dedicated system for the myford. I have also built some shelving for some of the various accesories that came with the machine, so now I'm good to go. Project number one which I am going to do today is to make a saddle stop for the lathe using Harold Halls plans which I have down loaded from the internet and seems to be a fairly straight forward project. I shall post the results of my labours when it is complete, for now however I will post a photo of the lathe now that it is ready to work.
Oh the small brass ball beneath the dro display I turned the other day whilst having a play, this was my very first attempt ever at both turning a ball and using the lathe and to be honest didn't turn out to bad.
Many Thanks for your input,advice and recommendations all of which is gratefully received. I am as you have correctly guessed a newcomer to this hobby and I am looking forward to exploring its many challenges. I have already purchased many of the books you have mentioned and have ordered today the model engineers workshop manual by George Thomas. I have included a photo of my new lathe and have even had a little play with it. I am so pleased with how smooth and quiet it is when in use. I had anticipated upgrading it with a Newton Tesla AV750 package but after having used it once I think I will leave it as it is for the foreseeable future.
This was taken after doing a 300 mile round trip and reassembling the lathe on to the cabinet. I will include a photo when it is properly set up and ready from some serious turning.
Hi Chris, yes the previous owner has indeed marked the cog as you have stated, in fact the whole mod has been so well done that I honestly thought it had been fitted in the factory.
Gents, thank you both for such prompt, informative and helpful replies. I shall look up the book tomorrow, although I would think it maybe sometime before I become proficient enough on the lathe to attempt such work. Nice to know I have the facility though.
Edited By John Templeman on 28/11/2021 22:11:46
Edited By John Templeman on 28/11/2021 20:03:49
Hi All, Just to keep you up to speed I am now the proud owner of a Myford Super Seven including all the accessories I will probably ever need. I have not yet used it anger as I am still studying the manuals and learning about the machine. I do have a couple of questions though. There is a 3 stage tensioned lever that is directly above the bull cog that when activated appears to lock the bull cog, there is no mention of this in the manuals, there is a small bracket next to the oil port at the front of the machine with a hole and alignment groove in it once again no mention of it in the literature and thirdly there are two small adjustable pointed screws, I think these are socket set screws on the counter shaft arm, what is the purpose of these? I will try to attach photos to illustrate, the photo below shows the lever and one of the pointed screws the other screw is directly opposite on the other side out of shot.
Hi all, I have now come across what looks to be an absolute perfect example of a Myford Super Seven with Quick Change Gearbox with all the accessories I could ever need, I have not yet seen the lathe in the flesh, but have seen many, many photos. It is I think, if my research is correct a 1988-1991 machine, serial no. sk165501, the gentleman who owned this machine passed away and his wife and brother in law who are selling the equipment do not know anything about it regarding functions etc. will this have power cross feed ?. It was I believe bought new by the current owner and has only been used for model making so has not been abused in anyway. If it does have PCF I really feel that I should buy it and sell my WM240. What would the general consensus be from you guys ie is it a step in the right direction, any input most appreciated.
Many Thanks for the input/advice and the welcome messages, this really is a friendly forum. I shall, I think keep my eye out for a nice boxford AUD/BUD as I am sure it will tick all the boxes. I like the idea of adapting my current set up including a separate motor for the PCF, however I feel that my yearning for a old english lathe will not subside until i actually have one and would like to keep the WM240 unmolested as I feel it would be more saleable.
Hi all I have been lurking on here for sometime now and have started equipping my workshop with equipment, I currently have a warco 240 lathe and a warco gh 18 mill and a metal cutting saw. I am in the process of building my first stationary steam engine which I am really enjoying and I have to say finding challenging. Although I am happy with my lathe I have become obsessed with replacing it with a old english machine either a Myford or a Boxford AUD or BUD. I would want power cross feed on the machine. My question is do I really need power cross feed or is it something I think I have to have. Your input would be gratefully received. Many Thanks in advance John
|Thread: fitting wedge type qctp to Warco WM240|
Jager, I too have a Warco WM240 could you tell me which QCTP you fitted to your lathe as I am not sure which to buy for mine Regards John
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