Here is a list of all the postings Steve Richardson 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Greenly traction engine 1.25 inch scale|
there is a greenly TE at 1.25" for sale now on ebay
|Thread: VFD size|
Most? VFDs should allow setting two frequencies as the main output (you can then use one or the other - high or low). You can use that to create your two speeds when connected to a 'single speed' 3 phase motor coupled with the original variator - and you then have your variable speed and two speed ranges. This possibly has some power limitations at low frequency - but I have not encountered issues with my lathe that is set up this way.
the other option is If you remove the variator and original two speed motor, and replace with a conventional single speed 3 phase motor connected to a two speed counter shaft/pulley arrangement. this coupled with the VFD, gives two speed ranges plus convenience of variable speed via VFD.
Edited By Steve Richardson 2 on 11/11/2021 09:48:31
I have a similar set up on my chipmaster and its great.
Id seriously be checking some of the basic settings, particularly your motor parameters in the VFD. Maybe I missed it, but what 'kw' is your VFD rated to 2.2kw ? - thats possibly a bit low.
And I assume your motor is set up in the connection box to 'delta' - output voltage for the phases to the motor needs to be 230v.
I have set up a few of these now and the only time I had problems was when I didn't have some of the basics right. A good manual helps though.
|Thread: Joint Failure|
have had a kettle with that exact fail
|Thread: horizontal boiler stays|
thanks, well aware of the risks of using air. Will try the hydraulic pressure test once I have a pump and a valve and a few bits to connect it.
Mains pressure as Paul suggests may be an option - at least for a low pressure test.
for those interested, the boiler and stays hold air quite well. one fitting was more an issue getting sealed than the stays which were no problem at all.
Thank you all for your thoughts and advice. will start first with some air and see what happens
Thanks for the advice. So you are saying its fine for the stays to be screwed.
I'll have to try pressure test. Will have to play with how much torque to give them.Though internal pressure will i expect tighten against them. Under heat they will expand in length regardless of if soldered or not. Also seem to see many that do have soldered stays. But if this works like it is thats fine.
The stay is only screwed one end and long 'bolt' with head and other end (see images), copper washers underneath at each end. So basically they have a flat nut threaded internally one end, and 'bolt' head the other end.
I recently acquired what is in many respects quite a well built horizontal 'marine' type boiler. It has the normal centre flue and cross tubes. It looks to be almost finished but unused.
Everything is silver soldered except for the two longitudinal stays which have copper washers under bronze fittings each end. At one end of the stays the bronze fitting has spanner flats and of course can be unscrewed. All of this has been in place for a long time and sat on a shelf by the look of it.
I would have thought the stays would seal better if silver soldered?
Though I see a few articles about comsol? or even using loctite on threaded stays to caulk/seal.
Any recommendations on how to seal these, or should I silver solder them? of should give it a good pickle and loctite I leave them?
|Thread: stationary steam engine books|
thanks Jason, will look them up.
there also looks to be a similar series? 'Stationary steam engine makers' by george watkins is that the same or another series?
Just interested in asking which volumes of the 'Stationary steam engines of great Britain' by Watkins series by Watkins would be recommended for beam engines, or any volumes recommended in general. Or are they all equally good?
|Thread: Henry Greenly Model Engineering|
trove is a great resource and great for finding advertisements for machinery, tools bikes, household or whatever it may be.
Sure they will keep adding to the digital library and keep digitising - though continual budget cuts never help.
Thanks, Hopper, Roderick and Alan, that's great.
yes it is the Model Engineering - a guide to model workshop practice .
Didn't have much luck with google books, but Alan's link (thanks Alan) is actually to the 1919 reprint so is quite close to mine and has the same number of pages and cant see much difference and appears almost identical but must be some minor edits. Otherwise I sure it will be just fine.
I was lucky enough to acquire a few old engineering texts and catalogues a while back. One of them was a 1920 reprint of the Henry Greenly Model engineering book. Very interesting book, covers a lot of subjects not all in great detail but is combined with dimensioned drawings that help out.
only problem is its missing part of the index. Would anyone know where I might find a copy of a complete index, without buying another copy of the book?
|Thread: Threading Stainless Steel|
try turning the diameter down slightly more than you have
|Thread: Cuttings an 8tpi thread in free cutting silver steel|
Think I have some old gramaphone parts with worms on like that.
not sure how you would use the rear tool post support without having to reset it and the tool for each cut, as the tool post would move if you moved the cross slide.
tailstock support, travelling steady set well, and fine cuts...
|Thread: Create Tools contact|
I had a reply from them back in late July. I didn't follow through with an order at the time though, however I was advised that they did have a lot of emails and had initially missed my inquiry. Not sure what the situation is there now though.
|Thread: Beginner milling chuck key question|
keep it simple and do it as Bazyle suggested. That basically how I did my last one - with the side of an end mill but in a dividing head.
|Thread: Walton broken tap extractor|
does look interesting, always good to get the tap out without damaging the thread/hole
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