Here is a list of all the postings Peter Cook 6 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Damp shed: what’s the best way to add ventilation?|
My little 6 x 4 shed (used to store the mower, shredder and other potentially useful junk) used to get damp. I installed a couple of passive vents, one low at the back, one High at the front and a cheap solar powered vent in the door. That has kept it dry ever since.
|Thread: Milling - first cuts|
The slot drills should be, the end mills may or may not.
Look at the ends, if the cutting edges extend right across the face, then they should be capable of plunge cutting. If the cutting edges leave a gap in the centre ( end mills) then they won't plunge cut. Many of the small end mills 3 and 4 flute ) I have do centre cut and will plunge.
One trick I have learned when milling a slot like the one you describe, is to plunge cut ( or drill with a suitable size drill bit) to your target depth at each end. Then position the cutter in one of the holes to a reasonable cutting depth, then mill the slot across to the other hole using several passes.
I find it easier to get the end position of the slots accurate this way than trying to hit the same end point for each pass of the mill on the handwheels. A DRO would probably help.
Sorry the others got there while I was typing.
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 16/03/2022 12:57:20
|Thread: Micro-lathe suitable as multi-function system for small workshop?|
DOC is an issue on small lathes, but the Taig (and I would guess the Sherline) are quite capable. I was taking 1mm DOC in EN1A mild steel today on my Taig with absolutely no protest.
Which comes down to your motivation for starting. Do you principally want to build models, with the PM #3 as the next in the line - and want a lathe to facilitate that goal? Or do you want to make "stuff" on the lathe and the PM #3 is simply an interesting example?
Do you see the future as a "collector/maker of well engineered models", or a time where you "enjoyed your time making ...". If the former, then probably skip the Taig because you will end up spending more time building add-ons and tooling - although that will happen to some extent in either use case.
I wanted to fix clocks, and needed a lathe to do so, but I have migrated to the second position. I enjoy making/creating useful "stuff". So modifying and enhancing the lathe is as good an outcome as any other. The Taig is probably the best platform for that.
I have a Taig lathe, but don't build engines so I can't help with the detail of the build. In my view Taigs are very capable and very reasonably priced, but they are the basis for creating what you want rather than ready to run out of the box. A Sherline or a Chinese mini lathe would be better out of the box.
Look at John Bentley's modelengines.info website to see what can be done on a Taig
The Taig Lathe and Milling Machine (cartertools.com) has lots of information on how people use and modify the Taig.
I opted for the ER16 collet spindle and am very glad I did. As John says 5C has the disadvantage that the collets are expensive and only hold one size while ER collets hold a 1mm range of sizes. (You can actually get 11 and 12mm ER16 collets from Gloster Tooling). I have a 12mm one and it works well.
Taig supply 3 & 4 jaw chucks which screw directly onto the M22 x 1.5 ER spindle nose so no need for a backplate. The sherline 3 jaw M22 x 1.5 threaded chuck also fits ( but is considerably more expensive than the Taig soft jaw version). I have swung 4" diameter on the lathe (nominally it will turn 4.5", and they also do a riser block that adds another 1" of clearance to the bed (albeit with some loss of rigidity) so up to 6.5" is possible.
As Francis says the recommended induction motor is very heavy, bulky and in my view very limited as the minimum spindle speed is about 450rpm which is a bit fast for turning cast iron. A variable speed DC motor is a much better choice. Mine is currently fitted with a BLDC 220W DC motor on a home made mount. which gives me 75-10,000 rpm at the spindle.
I bought the vertical slide and milling vice with the Taig. I have successfully used it to do small scale milling, but the setup is such a faff that I eventually bought a Sieg SX1LP mill.
Mine like Francis' and all standard Taigs doesn't have a leadscrew. I don't find the rack feed much of an issue. It is quick to move, but does provide accurate positioning. I plan to add a motor driven leadscrew and power feed when I get round to it.
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 07/03/2022 17:48:46
|Thread: Cross-slide fixture plate considerations|
Interesting discussion, but simply adding a fixture plate doesn't give any Z-axis control. I would have thought for any realistic milling use you would be far better off with a vertical slide (with T-slots?) to which you can afix the workpiece or a small milling vice.
|Thread: Mystery object|
Almost certainly started life as a rifle bullet . 0.375" is the calibre for a Winchester or several other hunting rifles.
Why the groove - to hang from a cord as a trophy?
No problems with Dyson here. The new one is a replacement for a DC01 I (alright we!) bought in 1994. Still works, but is heavy and the power cord is becoming more of a pain.
Not sure if people can't be bothered, or if they have no idea how to! The number of people who use technology that not only do they have no idea how to fix, but worse they have no idea how it works either worries me. I wonder how most of them survive.
I just purchased a new vacuum cleaner ( A Dyson). Opened the box to be greeted with a label that said they were not supplying a printed manual in the interest of saving the environment - I should download one from the internet.
However there is an outer cardboard shipping sleeve, an inner cardboard display box and then every separate component of the machine is wrapped in an origami exercise of corrugated cardboard together with extra pieces to fill the spare space.
So they save one five page booklet, but still supply about 40 separate pieces of card - most quite large when unfolded!
The environment or their costs?
|Thread: Here's an interesting one|
Suspect you will not get anything - only your credit card details harvested.
|Thread: I am getting shorter - how about you.|
|Thread: 3D printer forums?|
Probably two different groups of forums.
One group ( call them HOW) covering the techniques and issues associated with actually printing. As John said in the second post, most of these forums are printer specific although there are some more general ones.
The other group (the WHAT) are associated with creating or acquiring the things that you want to print. The biggest in this latter group is probably Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects although there are others e.g. 3D Models for Free - Free3D.com
Beyond these "libraries" you get into the forums dedicated to software that allows you to create your own 3D designs and again these will depend on the software you use to create the things you plan to print. That opens up the whole "which 3D design package"
My experience - get a printer, use YouTube (if required) to help you put it together, set it up and get started by grabbing things from Thingverse, then graduate to designing your own. Use forums to help solve particular problems.
|Thread: Right to Repair|
Doing the math on Tax, Insurance, Maintenance, MOT, Tyres and Fuel divided by the miles (not many these days) - simply using a Taxi is starting to look very attractive!
|Thread: How useful is high 5000rpm spindle speed in a mill|
Depends what you are planning to do with it.
I frequently use 4000rpm plus on my SX1LP when drilling tapping and clearance holes for M3 and M4 fastenings, particularly in aluminium. If M3 & M4 seem very small to you - it's probably of little value, and the odd hole at lower speed will work just as well.
I also use 1 & 2mm mills in aluminium to cut small 3-4mm wide slots. Again the high speed is useful.
I do feel pangs in the wallet when I look at the SX3.5ZP!!
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 02/02/2022 17:52:22
|Thread: Ancient Minting Technology?|
Wikipedia Coining (mint) - Wikipedia has some basic information about the making of coin dies in medieval and ancient times.
|Thread: Suffolk Steam Dredging Tractor|
There are people I know who hire "a man" to put pictures up - not sure they would know what a "thread" was let alone a left hand one!
|Thread: A Tower Clock project|
In case anyone is interested!. It has been a bit cold in the workshop for progress on the "other projects", so I have amused myself by developing the design for the church clock model. Rather than the original idea of having the chime triggered twice (rather than the four times of the original), I did some spread sheeting to develop an alternative time train that gives a once per hour minute shaft, and for which the wheels are fairly close to scale - I chose 6mm = 1" as I prefer to work in metric, but the clock is clearly imperial dimensions. So far only the time train is close to a finished design, the chime & strike trains will be closer to the original as the gear ratios can be retained.
The model so far is
Using MOD 0.5 for the gears, the second wheel is a fair bit (16%) bigger than scale which required the escape arbour to move to one side, at which point it clashed with the minute arbour drive wheel, so the bearing mounts needed lengthening to raise it up to maintain depthing. The output bevel gears also needed to be made a bit smaller to avoid a clash with the second wheel, but otherwise things are fairly close to scale.
The escape wheel teeth on the original are flattened and about 1/8" thick. To scale they look rather fragile at 0.75mm, so I have used 1mm pins and modified the pallet spacings to suit (I hope!). The plan is to make the arbours from silver steel and harden the pivots. All bearings are brass. Several parts (the frame, the escape arbour, bevel wheel bearing supports and the pendulum support are clearly cast iron. They will be fabricated from steel ( silver soldering is a skill I will need to acquire). The winding ratchet also looks to be cast and that together with the similar parts for chime and strike, plus the strike cam have some complex curves that I will need to work out how to make. I might see if I can find a local laser cutting organisation willing to make small one-off parts for a reasonable cost (unless anyone has a cheap desktop laser cutter capable of cutting 4mm steel plate going spare).
As always, comments and suggestions gratefully received.
Edited to correct tabulation of table ( I hope)
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 20/01/2022 17:50:07
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 20/01/2022 17:52:38
|Thread: 180v motor not working on new control board|
Damaged bearings are highly unlikely to cause the controller fuse to blow unless the motor is so stiff to turn by hand that it is overloading, and I think you would have noticed.
Dave got there before me!
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 16/01/2022 11:28:22
Fan (possibly slightly loose) was acting as a sound board. The motor is knackered. Any further effort is a waste of your time.
What sort of noise does it make?
Was the motor new or used. If the latter(or even the former), you may have a bad motor. If one or more armature windings have shorted, you would get the symptoms you have seen.
If you have a meter, try measuring the resistance (with the motor disconnected) between the input wires as you turn the motor slowly. You will see some variation, but if the resistance goes very low at one or more positions, you could have a bad motor.
Did the motor company test the motor, or just look at the label?
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 14/01/2022 22:10:58
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