Here is a list of all the postings Peter Cook 6 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Suffolk Steam Dredging Tractor|
There are people I know who hire "a man" to put pictures up - not sure they would know what a "thread" was let alone a left hand one!
|Thread: A Tower Clock project|
In case anyone is interested!. It has been a bit cold in the workshop for progress on the "other projects", so I have amused myself by developing the design for the church clock model. Rather than the original idea of having the chime triggered twice (rather than the four times of the original), I did some spread sheeting to develop an alternative time train that gives a once per hour minute shaft, and for which the wheels are fairly close to scale - I chose 6mm = 1" as I prefer to work in metric, but the clock is clearly imperial dimensions. So far only the time train is close to a finished design, the chime & strike trains will be closer to the original as the gear ratios can be retained.
The model so far is
Using MOD 0.5 for the gears, the second wheel is a fair bit (16%) bigger than scale which required the escape arbour to move to one side, at which point it clashed with the minute arbour drive wheel, so the bearing mounts needed lengthening to raise it up to maintain depthing. The output bevel gears also needed to be made a bit smaller to avoid a clash with the second wheel, but otherwise things are fairly close to scale.
The escape wheel teeth on the original are flattened and about 1/8" thick. To scale they look rather fragile at 0.75mm, so I have used 1mm pins and modified the pallet spacings to suit (I hope!). The plan is to make the arbours from silver steel and harden the pivots. All bearings are brass. Several parts (the frame, the escape arbour, bevel wheel bearing supports and the pendulum support are clearly cast iron. They will be fabricated from steel ( silver soldering is a skill I will need to acquire). The winding ratchet also looks to be cast and that together with the similar parts for chime and strike, plus the strike cam have some complex curves that I will need to work out how to make. I might see if I can find a local laser cutting organisation willing to make small one-off parts for a reasonable cost (unless anyone has a cheap desktop laser cutter capable of cutting 4mm steel plate going spare).
As always, comments and suggestions gratefully received.
Edited to correct tabulation of table ( I hope)
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 20/01/2022 17:50:07
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 20/01/2022 17:52:38
|Thread: 180v motor not working on new control board|
Damaged bearings are highly unlikely to cause the controller fuse to blow unless the motor is so stiff to turn by hand that it is overloading, and I think you would have noticed.
Dave got there before me!
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 16/01/2022 11:28:22
Fan (possibly slightly loose) was acting as a sound board. The motor is knackered. Any further effort is a waste of your time.
What sort of noise does it make?
Was the motor new or used. If the latter(or even the former), you may have a bad motor. If one or more armature windings have shorted, you would get the symptoms you have seen.
If you have a meter, try measuring the resistance (with the motor disconnected) between the input wires as you turn the motor slowly. You will see some variation, but if the resistance goes very low at one or more positions, you could have a bad motor.
Did the motor company test the motor, or just look at the label?
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 14/01/2022 22:10:58
|Thread: Stewart S50 Name|
sorry Nope - Not in my experience. Time and experience getting the mill and lathe to do what you want grows far faster than the creative thinking and planning - you are always thinking of new things - so over time mill and lathe time shrinks as a percentage of the project.
However on the bright side total project time shrinks so you get more projects done.
|Thread: That Strange Calculator Again|
Just a random idea - It s a calculator/convertor for precious metals. One measurement system used is the pennyweight , which is one 240th of a Troy pound, one 20th of a troy ounce (hence the 20 holes in the outer ring and is subdivided into 24 grains (the holes in the inner ring?) possibly the 48ths are half grains.
The fractions round the edge are all the approximations to the 16th's with correction factors for 48ths or 240ths. So for example 9(/16) is 3/5 + 9(240ths) and 7/12 +1(48th).
The only place pennyweight is still used ( and was still used in 1908 - it lost it's official status in 1878) is in the precious metals trade.
What it does and how it works I don't know, but the involvement of 16th's suggest it might be for converting the archaic troy/pennyweight system to the avoirdupois (1 lb = 16 oz).
Just my two pennyweight's worth.
|Thread: Royal Fail|
My experience is that "despatched" is the status shown once the seller has created the shipping label and obtained the tracking number. It doesn't mean the Post office have got it.
When they do get it it usually shows as "received at....".
If they are still showing as dispatched, it is probably the shipper to blame not the post office.
|Thread: Slowing lathe RPM|
I would wholly agree. MC and I both have Taig lathes so would fall very firmly in the latter category which is why I suggested he needed to think about slowing the lathe down from its 400+ minimum to do what he was trying to do.
I have stepped the soft jaws on my three jaw very successfully
That is a 90mm lump of aluminium, but I have swapped the induction motor for a DC one, and machined the jaws the other way round ( as inside jaws clamped on a steel rod) with a final light skim when reversed.
As the person in question who suggested slower speeds (and I make no claims to be an expert) I was sharing the numbers I use on my Taig. I normally use numbers close to those suggested by Dave (SOD). At 100mm he suggests 10000/dia in mm for steel and twice that for Aluminium. For a 100mm Aluminium that would be 200rpm.
I find it interesting that Andrew's numbers agree with SOD for 100mm (4" ) dia steel (100rpm), but the multipliers for brass (3 vs 1.5) and aluminium (6 vs 2) are so different. I will try cutting a bit faster in aluminium, but the Taig's minimum speed of 400+ rpm limits cutting pieces of steel to around 1" diameter.
MC's original issue was exacerbated by the interrupted cut (20 - 22 impacts/sec ) on a 100mm diameter. I suggested reversing the jaws and cutting the step close to the centre as if they were inside Jaws then only taking a final skim with them back as outside jaws.
Edited to get rid of icons
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 11/01/2022 22:51:52
|Thread: Summer 1990 Rotary Table|
Agree with Durham builder as to location. Suspect the length is .8", and the scan has made the decimal point invisible.
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 06/01/2022 20:53:48
|Thread: Paranoid about Android|
Michael, on my phone there is another option on the Manage Contacts menu to Synchronise contacts. That allows me the option of turning on or off synchronisation ( or not) with my Google (or Samsung) Account.
If you turn off synchronisation and then copy to the phone, I think they stay on the phone.
I don't think Android 11 allows contacts to be used from the SIM. I have a new Android 11 phone, mine is a Samsung so may be different, but it should be possible to move them from the SIM to the phone (I think) :-
If I open the Contacts app and press the three lines top right I get offered a menu one of which is to Manage contacts. Pressing that gets me a set of options one of which is Move contacts.
That gets me a chance to select where to move the contacts From & To. On my phone the four choices are SIM1, Phone and either Google or Samsung accounts. Selecting Phone gets me a list of all the contacts on the phone. Selecting ALL ( top left of the list) then returns me to the From - To menu and would allow me to move them to the SIM card.
I presume you could do the opposite and put them on the phone.
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 02/01/2022 12:38:17
|Thread: Is there too much choice?|
I was once told that the easy way to tell the difference between rich and poor is that the rich spend money to save time, and the poor spend time to save money. The "chaos" you experience is simply a by product of competition for your business. If you don't cater to the siren calls from the press and society that suggest you are neglecting your duty if you don't shop around.
If time is that valuable, one way to solve the problem is to hire a "concierge service" that will do all the boring stuff for you. That simplifies life considerably - but at a cost!!
The cheaper ( but not cheapest) solution to household services etc. is to pick a supplier for each and stick with them. Use direct debit to pay what and when they ask for.
Rodico cleaning putty is definitely a different composition to Bluetack. Bluetack doesn't pick up grease and oil nearly as well as Rodico, and leaves a slight mark if you use it for positioning and holding - Rodico doesn't seem to be as bad.
Bluetack is slightly stickier - Rodico doesn't do so well holding pictures on the wall.
|Thread: 2000 Year old computer|
If you have not previous found them have a look at Clickspring's series of videos on the Antikythera mechanism and his construction of a reproduction. Technically fascinating, and AWESOME craftmanship.
|Thread: Digital Caliper - again, sorry|
Strip it down, clean it out, reassemble. The bit of plastic under the button cover has got stuck!
I only have one cheap pair that switch off properly. They are a pain. If I put them down and they auto-off then they have to be re-zero'ed when switched back on. The Mitutoyo set I have, a Mitutoyo fake I also have and some cheap £20.00 ones all just switch off the display and remember position.
|Thread: Turret clock|
Look forward to following the build.
For information most of the wheels on
The clock frame is 1600m wide and 575mm front to back.
All dimensions are approximate - it's fairly hard to do accurate measurements on a running clock.
If you want any specific details please send me a PM and I will try to help.
Michael, as part of a plan to make a model of the church clock which I wind twice each week, I have been documenting the clock. You can see my original posting with a couple of pictures at
Although this is a Pinwheel escapement rather than gravity arm if it is of use, the details of the clock gearing are
Time train Teeth Rotation
I have a spreadsheet that computes the pendulum length from the gear counts in the time chain.
Fiddling with it suggest that if you used these numbers and reduced the number of pins in the escape wheel to 32, then
Escape Wheel Pins 32 2.50 period secs
which is about 61" effective length - so possibly OK for your pendulum.
In a posting on the other thread Michael pointed me to https://richard.burtons.org/2014/11/28/restoring-a-j-smith-and-sons-derby-turret-clock/ which is a restoration of a very similar Smiths of Derby clock, but that one does have a gravity escapement.
Hope this is of use.
Edited By Peter Cook 6 on 03/12/2021 14:50:43
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