Here is a list of all the postings James Hall 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What to do when you lose something|
You've heard of the fat-bergs found in the London sewers, I'm sure.
Well, somewhere in the Cambridge sewers is an enormous biro-and-teaspoon-berg.
|Thread: Buffing and Polishing|
Have a look at https://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/ - They do a very wide range of mops, compounds and chemicals of all grades, sizes and types. They also do polishing kits specific to various materials.
|Thread: Brazing silver steel: any caveats/recommendations?|
As a relative newby I may be wrong - but you could drill/tap rod and thread the other piece i.e., as commercially bought extensions for some types of drill. Probably almost as quick as making sockets or whatever and 'gluing', probably quicker than brazing/silver soldering. No worries about heat or insecurities about failure doing it like this and pretty sure that the joint will be concentric.
|Thread: SX2P Gas Strut Modification Issue?|
I suggest you re-read my post, more carefully this time.
Not a problem with the Honda Accord which the insurance co. paid for after the old one was written off in a crump - and which, when it arrived, looked for some reason remarkably like an SX3!
No gas strut, of course, and you have to do all the work raising it yourself, but consequently no backlash problems - limited to 0.02mm, presumably in the worm gears. I'm only a newby so am perhaps wrong, but if milling requiring Z-axis precision I lock the column and quill in any case; drilling would have to exert a lot of force to push that heavy head upwards.
|Thread: Would this improve the quality of signal to a CNC machine?|
I'm all for a bit of heckling.
Andrew- I entered into academe late in life, something like a third career, but after your time:
Well, I've had more graceful responses to an apology
The Interweb is packed with nonsense, advice and 'howtos' posted by idiots who have no idea of which they speak so in my experience it's always a very good idea to check provenance before accepting anything too readily. I merely pointed out that I do actually know what I'm talking about - why should you apparently have some sort of problem with that?
Martin Kyte wrote:
That's more sensible and describes the mechanism - but actually supports the necessary differentiation between the digital and analogue. It really is not splitting hairs as an appreciation of the difference between signal, channel, carrier and their 'layering' is essential to any understanding of digital (or any other form of) communications.
I apologise if I may have overreacted to seeing incorrect statements regarding digital signals but teaching digcomms to half a generation of undergraduates (most of whom have achieved good degrees and gone on to successful careers in R&D and industry) has made me particularly sensitive to any misconceptions of this sort.
Martin Kyte: you may well agree with Andrew Johnston on this one but you would, with respect, both still bee wrong.
This really is DigComms 101 - kids' stuff. To say that a digital signal is really an analogue one because it is carried over an analogue channel is as ridiculous as saying that an analogue signal is really a piece of wire because the piece of wire carries the electrons. I've tried to think up an illustrative analogy with the difference between the meaning of word and a dumb spell-checker for you further amusement - but it proved to be too contrived.
A digital signal is most definitely NOT an analogue signal. Over copper it is transmitted by way of an underlying analogue signal, but that is a different matter and the two signals are quite discreet.
|Thread: Cutting Oil Fumes|
Loadsa steel to remove machining a blank arbour to make an adaptor for a non-standard chuck. Cutting happily away with an indexable cutter amidst great clouds of fumes from hot cutting oil in a not-too-well-ventilated workshop. Now I love the smell of hot cutting oil, second only to that wonderful combination of hot oil, coal smoke and steam from a loco, but common sense says it's probably bad to be breathing it.
|Thread: Would this improve the quality of signal to a CNC machine?|
I think that someone has (apparently) been pulling your plonker.
IFF the bits are getting transmitted and received correctly the quality of the cable will make absolutely no difference.
Unless you are sending signals over too long a distance or in a high noise environment the chances are that a cheap cable should be fine (subject to correct manufacture).
|Thread: Steam Pipe Size|
Tony Wright 1 - I certainly will in future.
As a matter if interest, I had to make a second cylinder/port-face assembly for my Slim Jim - the first, made in accordance with the drawings, had a design error - you can see what it is in the pic below. A valuable lesson to check plans/drawings carefully before proceeding - it should have been obvious to me, but I naively assumed published drawings must be right.
Thanks JasonB and Jeff.
I'll probably stick with 3mm pipe for this setup as that's what I've got. Joining with flanges looks good and I'd certainly use them for authenticity on any future larger or replica models - but will stick with nuts and nipples for the present as less fiddly - union nuts are fast and simple to make. I'm currently soldering an appropriately sized washer to the end of a pipe sealed to the nipple with a sandwiched washer or o-ring but soldering this on square at this size is very fiddly. I'd rather use cones but have no idea where to obtain them for 3mm pipe (for 1/8" would do) - any suggestions?
Just to clear up any confusion over terminology, I use 'nipple' to refer to the fitting onto which the union nut screws and 'cone' to refer to the tapered fitting soldered on to the end of the pipe which is then held onto/into the nipple by the union nut. This comes from my one-time plumbing background, but if wrong in the ME world will happily be put right.
Have my simple boiler up and running and next step is to connect to my simple oscillator (both from Stan Bray's book 'Making Simple Model Steam Engines) but the book omits to give any guidance on size of steam pipework.
|Thread: Cleaning copper rivets.|
Thanks for your reply Jeff Dayman.
Leaking at the valve. I used the safety valve design shown by Myfordboy in his Youtube video series on making a simple boiler. It is essentially a cone in a taper with adjustable spring force. Of course I didn't seal the valve with instant gasket - I used it to form a cone-shaped silicon washer which makes a good enough contact to build pressure but as it's only a washer still allows a blow when required. Tested and adjusts and operates reliably at the 2bar I want.
I'll check out the designs you suggest.
Well, today the moment of truth: 30mins at 4bar and 30mins at 6bar. No leaks or weeps so as it's designed to steam simple oscillators at 2bar I'm happy.
First failure also today - my safety valve refused to hold against any pressure. Cured the problem with Instant Gasket - but don't know how it will stand the test of time and it's not really exactly an elegant solution. Any suggestions for a relatively simple safety valve design?
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