Here is a list of all the postings Donovan Kaardal has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Bench block for small parts - ice hockey puck|
Hockey pucks are great - and they machine beautifully. I'm making some feet for my surface grinder right now.
|Thread: Crawford 5C TruGrip to regular 5C conversion?|
I managed to get a great deal on a 5C collet chuck with an integrated L0 backplate on eBay a little while back. I've been out of touch with any kind of metal spinning for quite a while, but I recalled Crawford being a solid name, so I grabbed the chuck even though I don't have much in the way of 5C tooling.
Of course the reason the chuck was going for such a low price won't be a surprise to anyone but me - Crawford TruGrip 5C collets are very different from standard 5C collets. They thread is much more course, and it's also going in the opposite direction.
Taking the chuck apart though, the threaded draw 'ring' is easily removable, and replacing it with one that fits standard 5C collets would convert it perfectly. What I'm wondering is if anyone has done this, or if anyone knows if there's somewhere that sells a right-handed, 5C threaded draw 'ring' for these chucks?
I have run across someones facebook page where they made a pair of these and they worked exactly as expected. I'd rather buy one - or have one made if anyone wants to recommend a place to get it done - then try it myself at this stage. My lathe is new to me and is slowly being rebuilt, and I can furnish other excuses to cover up for the fact I'm a big 'ole chicken when it comes to threading anything that is even a little unusual.
Any help would definitely be appreciated!
Pics of the drawbar 'ring'
And the chuck disassembled
|Thread: Computer Disaster! Help needed!|
Martin, the best place to start is to get into the Windows recovery environment. Neil Wyatt outlined the standard way of accessing it, but if you can't get into it by using the keyboard during the boot process (and with FastBoot enabled, you really can't), then you can do it by interrupting the startup process 3 times.
When your system is booting, press and hold the reset button on your computer until it restarts. Do that 3 times, and the 4th time just leave it to boot. It should show you a screen with the words 'Preparing Automatic Repair'.
You should then see a screen with Automatic Repair across the top and a couple of buttons: Restart and Advanced Options.
Click Advanced Options, then click Troubleshoot. From there you will have a few options that you can try such as System Restore (if you have a previously saved restore point), System Image recovery (if you have a system backup), Startup Repair, Startup Settings, and Command prompt. I'm kinda doing this from memory so forgive me if I'm missing anything.
What I would recommend is to try the options in this order:
Startup Repair - If that doesn't work (sometimes it does, usually it doesn't), you'll need to get back to the Automatic repair Screen again and try another one.
System Restore - if you don't tinker with your computer much, you should have some restore points. Chose this option, then select the most recent restore point. You may have to repair/reinstall any applications that were added after the last restore point.
Startup Settings - this will let you try booting into safe mode. There are a few options, but I'd suggest safe mode no networking, and at the very least back up your important files. You can recover them anyway even if Windows is completely toast, but this will make you feel better and is a nice, easy option.;
If startup repair or system restore don't work, there are other things to try but they're a little more involved. If you get back to use with an update after trying them, we can move on to other things if you're still having issues
|Thread: Arduino low power alternatives|
I'm a big fan of the ATTiny range from Atmel (well, Microchip owns them now). The ATtiny85 is extremely popular, and you can get ones that people have made into Arduinos if you really want. You could make one yourself and flash the arduino bootloader, or just say to heck with it and program it straight. If you're not going to be changing the program very often, there's no reason to waste the space with the bootloader.
Power wise they can be very efficient, though as was previously said using sleep states or low power states helps with that as well.
Here's a pic of an ATTiny based arduino. I bought a bunch of these ages ago so there may be better ones out there now. This one was called the digispark? The purple board next to it is one I made that uses smd components - this is a wireless temperature sensor, but for this one I'm pretty sure I used the Arduino IDE to write my program, then programmed the ATtiny(s) with a second arduino.
Low power ATtiny info is out there - here's at least one page that is a good place to start: ATtiny low power
|Thread: Jones and Shipman 540 surface grinder serial number ID?|
Excellent, thanks for the help!
And Chris, I spoke to Andamar about a few parts that I need last week. Those people really know there stuff, and they're incredibly helpful! I'd not thought to ask about the serial number though.
I've just took posession of a new (to me) Jones and Shipman 540P surface Grinder and I'm trying to figure out when it was built. I've gone over the information on lathes.co.uk and I believe I've narrowed it down to somewhere in the 1965-1970's based on the front control panel and the HP rating of the hydraulic pump motor (the pump motor was upgraded to .75hp in the late 60's)
Anyone have any information on what the serial number will tell you bout the date of manufacture?
The serial number is 72393
At a guess this could be the 393rd machine made in 1972.
|Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start|
You'll be able to sell your services as a Colchester Student Lathe Rebuilder after this Richard!
That's a nice haul!
Not sure if you can say it was worth the wait, but at least you've got 'em now.
If you've got a car battery charger, you can also tinker with some galvanic etching. Basically reverse electroplating - I've used it in the past to make my own version of machine name plates, and also some medieval reenactment stuff.
With brass you just need a bucket of water, some copper sulfate crystals (used for killing weeds), a DC power source (aka car battery charger), some wire, bits of brass, and a few vague memories from grade 9 science class. At least, that's how I did it.
For the resist, I just used cut vinyl stickers made at a sign shop. You can use all sorts of things though, and you can etch a lot of different metals. I've etched some of my own home-forged knives back in the day.
Thanks Phil and Richard - everything seems to be working, except of course for the interrupt switches I removed. Which I'll now be putting back.
Just for historical purposes, I'll post a pic of the red button that was depressed on the contactor. Poking at it made it pop out, and after that everything worked.
As for what I plan on making... just little things to start with. Mainly small tools or parts for larger tools. I used to have a forge back home, and I loved the flexibility of the 'need a tool, make a tool' mindset. Anything from carving gouges to finger planes, it's handy to be able to make your own tools. Also, knurled thumb screws are strangely expensive, so I think I'll start by learning to knurl properly and get to work making a bunch of those.
Of course after hanging out on THIS website I now also want to make a sterling engine!
Phil, you were right on the money with that one. I'd though the overload switch/button was fine because it was pushed in... but I checked and there was no continuity between the yellow and black wire contacts. I poked at the overload button and out it popped! Put everything back together and presto! - things started moving!
I'm a little chagrined that I missed such an obvious thing, but I do want to say thanks to everyone for helping. Now I get to put everything back the way it was before I started messing around, and then I get to actually set up the lathe and maybe, just maybe, start doing some turning!
I'll get some pics tomorrow morning for you Phil, and I'll take some readings on the contactor tomorrow as well. Thanks for your help with this!
When I was taking the voltage readings, I had one probe on the wire and the second probe on the machine itself. That seems to indicate that the machine is grounded, though I'm still puzzled with the 11.6v readings on some of the wires at the switch on the back.
Running the tests that Phil suggested gave me some puzzling results.
With the power disconnected, I tested continuity between the plug pins and the yellow wire at the switch at the rear of the machine. There was about 1.3 Ohms resistance, so I'd get an interrupted tone (tone sounds when you touch the contact, then stops.).
I decided to check it under power. I connected one lead to the isolator box and then touched each of the wires at the switch in turn. I'd thought I'd had the red knob in the down position, but looking at my notes I suspect it was in the up position. Here's what I found on my multimeter (Fluke 115)
I did remove the two interrupt switches just in case - I just tied the wires together, since both switches seemed to be wired to Normally Open.
I pulled the switch off of the back of the machine and I've brought it home. Not sure if it's the problem, but it desperately needs a good cleaning anyway. Once I've stripped and cleaned it I'll see if there's any wear on anything. If not, I think it'll be time to dissect the motor.
Thanks Phil, I'll try that first thing tomorrow morning.
I've been doing mainly continuity testing with the power disconnected rather then while everything is live since I don't know if the machine is grounded. The Yellow/Green from the incoming line is tied to the grey box (isolator?), but I don't know that the motor is tied to that anywhere so I have to assume it's not grounded. Meaning I'm very careful when I do apply power and try that switch. All other times the machine is unplugged.
As for ToT, I have to admit I've watched pretty much all of his videos. Which is impressive, since I only discovered his youtube channel about a week or so ago!
That's the process I've been trying. Handle with the red knob at it's lower position, turn power on at the grey box on the left hand side of the picture above, rotate the MAIN MOTOR dial from OFF to ON, then left the handle with the red knob to the up position.
No sound other then the mechanical click from the switch box at the back of the lathe:
There's no hum of any kind, not even from the motor itself.
The only time there's any noise is when I turn the dial to MAIN MOTOR + PUMP, then the pump makes a whirling sound.
I used my multimeter to test continuity between the grey panel on the side where the 3 phase power comes in to the sockets where those 4 big brass prongs on the back of the main panel plug in. Only 3 are connected to anything, but there's continuity between the 3 live wires in the grey box to the 3 sockets that line up with the 3 prongs that have wires attached to them.
Lord I hope that makes sense.
Here's what the critter looked like when I bought it. It's very slightly cleaner now, but no so much so that you'd notice...
I do have the manual, and I've practically memorized the lathes.co.uk info on it (amazing resource that site! Expensive though. Just last week it took all the money in my bank account without warning. Though on an unrelated note I am getting an new(old) Schaublin 13 delivered this friday!)
It *sounds* like it's spinning, and when I turn the power off the spinning sounds slows to a stop over the course of 3-5 seconds.
As for the control panel, here it is in all it's glory. I don't have the fuses that you do, but everything else looks about right.
Ahh... I see!
I've tried it with the cover on for the most part, though I'll now double check that switch to make sure it's not damaged or anything.
As for power, I've got a little space in an an industrial park that's half way between my office and my home. It's not much, but it's got 3 phase!
Thanks Richard. The key switch I've got a handle on - the drawers open easily, so I'm assuming that it's unlocked. Just to be sure I pulled the key mechanism apart and checked it over. Open or closed, the motor won't start. I will say my pump motor sounds a lot quieter then the one you had in your video though!
Not sure about the cover switch though. I can't seem to see anything that looks like a switch/button/contact anywhere on the lathe other then the obvious main power on the side and the off/on/on+pump dial on the front.
I'll have to take some pictures of my lathe. Yes, it's a Colchester Student lathe and there are many others like it - but this one is mine.
Hi Phil - I'm just outside of Newbury here in England.
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