Here is a list of all the postings Roger Best has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Mc Donald Model tractor|
Fantastic work Fred. Thanks for showing us.
Edited By Roger Best on 18/04/2021 15:58:20
not sure about the fake Lego. Or the prostitution of a historic brand. Or the miss-use of Steampunk.
Its a shame they can't use the BL name for something better.
|Thread: Pins for a knurling tool - how hard should they be?|
You don't need to harden the pins.
All journals benefit from having the cheap part softer, and they can even last longer as a result, so mild steel will be sufficient.
Its difficult to imagine an amateur wearing the bore of a knurling tool such that it does not work, so any accurate material will do for what you need.
|Thread: Distorted ship's hull steel panels|
If Broadswords top speed was only 30 knots, how was its acceleration quite so good??
|Thread: Problem with 4 jaw chuck|
Strip it down and get a square onto those jaws, you can't fix what you can't measure.
I suspect that they will need re-machining, the best method will depend on what you have access to.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2021|
|Thread: Lathe DRO|
thanks John and John.
Hopefully my COVID-addled brain will one day be able to connect words with concepts as badly as it did before. I am beginning to think I may have to accept it as the norm though.
You don't actually have a problem wrt DRO. The cross slide, as Duncan says, is mainly to facilitate some of the more complex processes, especially increasing depth of cut on a thread, for which setting it to 30degrees, (or 60 depending on your lathe) is ideal.
If you watch Ade's workshop he is particularly good at explaining the use of the DRO for incremental cuts. I am sure that as you use your machine you will get used to making fine adjustments and getting sub-thou' cut adjustments as a result.
|Thread: Buying advice sought re Milling Machines: e.g. Proxxon: FF230 vs. BFW40/E vs. MF70|
I have some friends with small Proxxon MF70 mills and they love them. They are ideal for small modelling work in softer materials. One of them bought a pillar drill within weeks if I recall correctly.
I was looking about that time and it never occurred to be to go so small and light, because I was already focussed on steel and doing relatively-precision engineering, so I knew I had to pay for pounds weight and put up with a permanent installation.
However all I have done in since I got it could have been on on the Proxxon, and most of what I will do could be. It really does come down to what you want to do with it.
|Thread: Starting out a young enthusiast|
Without a doubt the Wilesco kit is a great start, a Mamod kit is even simpler and more idiot proof but less flash. There are few build threads on the Unofficial Mamod Forum and lots of modified examples.
I like quick results, just like an 11 year old, so I like toy engines too, I can't recommend the fun of running one enough. If the exercise is successful then move on and up to more elaborate things.
Edited By Roger Best on 29/03/2021 18:20:59
|Thread: Milling machines - western-made s/h recommendations up to £2k|
I appreciate your moral stance William. Not sure which new British-made machine satisfies all the criteria, but if second hand is good enough there is plenty of suggestions above and reasonable market, so patience will be rewarded I suspect.
Sports cars are a lot of fun for 8 months of the year, I would rather have both a car and a cheap milling machine that an expensive milling machine.
|Thread: Hall Class Display Model|
That works really well.
|Thread: Care of morse tapers|
Dry equals rust and deterioration for most environments.
|Thread: Hi from Hampshire U.K|
Greetings from the far north of Hampshire.
|Thread: Covid 19 and the DVLA|
Specsavers are hassling me to get my eyes tested. Can they help? Its a big company, they must have a DVLA suitable person on staff?
|Thread: High temp.-tolerant filler needed|
High temperature Silicon?
|Thread: Is RSJ Steel machinable?|
I had a hell of a job drilling holes in an RSJ for my house. 275 is proper strong stuff and the cheap drills didn't like it.
Sell for its proper use and buy something useful I say.
I had a beam outside for a decade. A good coat of red oxide and bitumastic paint kept it in good condition.
|Thread: Pressure Turning|
Just don't stand in the way!
A common technique I will undoubtedly try someday. I am pretty sure the trick is to minimise cutting forces, that means tiny feeds, sharp tools, cutting off a ring, etc, etc.
3mm sounds a bit chunky, but I don't see why not, just work across the face maybe having cut off the excess with a jigsaw.
As it is saving a huge amount of filing time I am sure its worth being careful.
|Thread: Two or three axis DRO|
Yes please Herbert.
|Thread: Inherited ML7 in need of some love - where to start?|
The main machine looks to be in good condition, so I suggest you follow the cautious chap's advice on that.
The bits that have been taken off look worse, however they are more easily stripped and cleaned.
There are few YouTube videos on stripping and de-rusting chucks that would be worth following. Its not difficult and using a chuck with rust in the internals will kill it.
I think you should expect to get it working in about 40 hours. Get some pleasure and pride out of it, Then allow yourself to slowly bring it up to what you want over a few years. A full-restoration could be 200+ hours even for the skilled, even more of you go full-hog.
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