Here is a list of all the postings john halfpenny has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Sealey SM27 Lathe|
|Thread: Chester model b fitting new vise|
I'm glad I read this post. My mill vice came with two blocks screwed to the back of the moving jaw. Now I know what they are and, to my surprise, they fit both the vice and the tee slot.
|Thread: Another car|
Reliant Scimitar SE6 and Mk 2 Mini 850 ( circa 1968)
It's a Fiat 125, not a 128, as shown by the twin headlights (or a Polski Fiat). The Lada was based on a Fiat 124.
Edited By john halfpenny on 08/01/2021 12:35:38
|Thread: Car Identity|
I don't think the fourth car has enough detail - it might be a Lanicia Flaminia. The interesting thing on the mystery car is that it has alloy wheels, so although the styling is 1964/6, it must be a little later. It looks like Pininfarina to me, and possibly a variation on a Ferrari Superfast, if not a Lamboghinin 400GT. The porthole feature is unusual.
BTW, the Herald is a standard 12/50 - 13/60 came later with a different grille
Edited By john halfpenny on 08/01/2021 11:26:04
The middle car is a Fiat 850, much smaller than a Maxi. The mystery car is much too big for a Fulvia, but is something along the lines of a Lamborghini 400GT - italian coachbuilt around 1964
|Thread: Clarke CL500M longitudinal feed screw|
Google images has plenty of shots of the standard bent tin guard - which can easily be extended or given a telescopic section. The standard length guard works quite well.
Stuart, these lathes were typically bought by the unknowing - never adjusted before purchase, and never set up after purchase, so they have a reputation of being sloppy and poorly made. You will find however that with proper adjustment, and there are many adjustment features, your lathe will likely work well and accurately.
There should be a screw to open out the slot and take up most of the backlash. It's in the other end of the photo - unless it's missing
|Thread: Value opinions for used clarke CL500M|
Your first job will be to adjust the gibs, and take up backlash on screws at the split nuts. Then align the tailstock. Be sure to lock off the unused axes when turning. Plenty of advice on here if you get stuck. If you decide the steadies are superfluous, please pm me.
You could fix up a powered cross feed with a fork drive and a hand held battery drill; there's a solution for every demand. Please let us know how you get on.
It's basic but capable Stuart. Sell it on when you have learned. I suspect it will end up at £700-800. I certainly wouldn't buy one new - there are much better new options now, and a much wider range.
I think around £500 would be very fair. The toolpost and steadies have value. The bad points are lack of half nut, and high lowest speed. The latter is fixable, and there is an easy workaround for the former. Good points are a big swing, and a 1" through bore in the chuck spindle. Bear in mind that the Clarke showroom samples are not adjusted, so everything is loose - but mine works smoothly with little play or backlash; it simply takes time to dial out. The castings are rough, but it's bottom of the market - my experience is that the machining is fine. The Clarke four jaw is a massive thing, much bigger than the three jaw and twice as heavy. I have one, but I also have a 100mm four jaw for which I made a simple backplate - total cost less than £50. Too many folk make vague criticism and/or make unfair comparison with lathes of much better quality. I suspect you might pay £2000+ for a british benchtop lathe with the same kit and it's own disadvantages. Yourmoney, your choice.
You are getting a lot for your money. I doubt you would lose. I can't see the set of gears, and you will need these to power the leadscrew, and to cut threads. The stand is not the official one, but looks at least as strong. I would say it is a more recent one - say 10-15 years old - which are allegedly of poorer quality. The mill/drill is not very good unless taking very light cuts, and you will need a raising block to use it - but it works. It's a versatile machine, and there are workarounds for the few bits of compromised design. It's a bit of a faff to change speed, by changing belt pulleys, but on the other hand belt drive is fairly safe for a novice. Mine is 30 years old, and hasn't required any repairs or spares.
|Thread: Size question|
Bernie, I thought your question quite sensible. The very intemperate response deserves a forum ban.
|Thread: Colchester MK1 Bantam|
I remember having this problem with my Clarke lathe. In my case it was solved by changing the length of the screw - I had to make a longer one. I recall the end of the screw pushed on the inner end of whatever was in the barrel, in my case a morse sleeve.
|Thread: Chuck for rotary indexer|
Thank you Jason. That is the answer. I wanted to use the pin, but didn't think of the tees for holding down/anti-rotation
I feel a need for a 100mm chuck on my indexer. The table is secured to the base by three caphead screws, and has small tee slots and two 5/16 fasteners. The 1/4 centre pin is removeable. The base has a shoulder about 4 1/4 od, and a shallow taper in the centre. I'm thinking about a register plate for table or base to allow quick fixing on centre. Ideas for a compact fixing gratefully received
|Thread: How surface hard does plasma cutting make steel?|
You can see 'my' start in the centre disc. £10 extra for bespoke cut, regardless of number.
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