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Member postings for Dr_GMJN

Here is a list of all the postings Dr_GMJN has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Stuart 10V Build Log - Complete Beginner...
17/01/2021 15:31:01

Thanks both.

The paint was from Mike Rhoades, it’s Meccano Dark Blue enamel (1978). It was applied by airbrush, then baked in the oven (see page 16).

Edited By Dr_GMJN on 17/01/2021 15:32:03

Thread: New ways to skin a cat
17/01/2021 13:52:24

May well have misunderstood what's going on, but why is turning through exactly 90 degrees so important for drilling the pin holes?

Wouldn't 'about 90 degrees' be OK, or really any angle so long as the drilled pin holes didn't break into the square hole?

Thread: Silver Soldering Materials
17/01/2021 08:12:06

OK guys, thanks very much.

For now I’ll ‘stick’ with Loctite, and not bother with solder.

17/01/2021 00:11:27
Posted by Nicholas Wheeler 1 on 16/01/2021 18:17:35:
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 16/01/2021 17:18:09:

Jason - it wasn't actually for the Victoria cylinder, it was for the silver soldering required on the Hemmingway kits Myford spindle handle. Not sure what bit it's for, but presumably for fitting something like a 30mm x 40mm long boss to a shaft. Not bought the kit yet, but its says:

"There is a single silver-soldered joint for which you'll need solder, flux and a propane torch."

I wouldn't solder that even though I have the means. Step into the 20th century and loctite it.

I’ve used Loctite on a fabricated crankshaft (with pins), and it worked very nicely, but I’d like to try silver soldering just to have another technique available. I’ve also got some repair work to do on an old Wilesco engine, and an even older stationary engine that belonged to my Dad.

Then again, some say Wilesco used soft solder, others dont...

16/01/2021 17:18:09

Thanks all,

Yes, I've currently got a bottle with a screw-on nozzle with a simple regulator - I use it for DIY plumbing jobs etc.

Surely for small jobs I'd not need £120 of torch equipment as per the CuP website?

Jason - it wasn't actually for the Victoria cylinder, it was for the silver soldering required on the Hemmingway kits Myford spindle handle. Not sure what bit it's for, but presumably for fitting something like a 30mm x 40mm long boss to a shaft. Not bought the kit yet, but its says:

"There is a single silver-soldered joint for which you'll need solder, flux and a propane torch."

So that's what I want to use it for. I'm sure there will be other jobs that I'll need silver solder for - there were times when normal solder didn't hold up to machining parts that were temporarily joined, when I was making the 10V.

Thread: Digital Height Gauge Recommendations?
16/01/2021 17:01:05

Thanks all.

I like the idea of a cheaper mechanical Mitutoyo gauge in terms of quality and longevity, but with the DROs and digital callipers I use on the milling machine and lathe, I wouldn't want to be without them.

I've got a really nice Mitutoyo dial gauge which I bought brand new many years ago for measuring car stuff, but I never use it - it's just way easier to use the cheap digital version. I do use my Mitutoyo micrometer, but only because I've not got a digital one yet. It's a pain to read compared with glancing at a digital readout.

I'm not using this stuff every day, and have never used such equipment as part of my day job, so with mechanical verniers etc it's much more likely I'd make a mistake when reading them.

Re. batteries, I've got a stock of them, but so far I've not had to change the DRO ones since installing them back in May. The calliper ones need changing every 6 months or so, but no big deal. All of them switch off automatically after a set time of not being used.

Never had any issue with any of them stopping working. Whenever I've randomly measured slip gauges or whatever, they've always seemed spot-on in terms of the accuracy - at least well within what I've ever likely to need.

Thread: Silver Soldering Materials
15/01/2021 23:02:46

All, I need to silver solder some components, but don’t have any materials yet.

What’s the best way forward - buy a kit or separate stuff? Also where to buy from?

Ive got a blowtorch, presumably I can use that? I think it’s butane, not sure if propane cans can be substituted if that’s necessary?

Thanks!

Thread: Digital Height Gauge Recommendations?
15/01/2021 22:54:35

As per the title really.

I suppose up to 200mm would be fine for small/medium sized model steam engine work? I often wished I’d got one when building the 10V

Arc do one for about £80 - wouldn’t want to spend much more than that, but open to suggestions.

As ever, advice is much appreciated. Thanks.

Thread: DTI Stand - Single Lock Type?
09/01/2021 18:05:57
Posted by Hopper on 09/01/2021 00:19:44:
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 08/01/2021 15:13:09:

Thanks all.

I know there are bargains out there, but it seems the luck of the draw whether they're any good. I'd rather just get something that I know will be good to go from the start.

So to Martin's point - the Noga fine adjusters can be bought and added later?

You are better off without the fine adjustment. It is just one more potential point of flex or movement in the train. If you want maximum accuracy leave it out. The moveable bezel on the dial gauge is your fine adjustment without adding to the flexibility of the holder.

Agreed, but that’s assuming the arm it rigid enough to not be disturbed by turning the dial. I’ve got a cheap stand where turning the dial to zero is pretty much trial and error. If the arm Itself isn’t rigid, I’d think an adjustment at the base (eliminating touching the dial or arm) would be best.

Im assuming that with the Noga arm and base that this is a non-issue.

08/01/2021 15:13:09

Thanks all.

I know there are bargains out there, but it seems the luck of the draw whether they're any good. I'd rather just get something that I know will be good to go from the start.

So to Martin's point - the Noga fine adjusters can be bought and added later?

08/01/2021 09:30:43

Does anyone have any thoughts on the best fine adjustment position?

The adjuster on the base would seem to possibly reduce stiffness a bit, just where you don't want it (suppose it depends on the method of adjustment), and when using the type with an adjuster on the DTI holder, you can sometimes affect the reading when you touch the adjuster.

I'm not sure if the Noga designs are stiff enough such that neither of these are particular issues?

07/01/2021 19:35:34

Thanks Guys. I'm going to go with a Noga item for about £85. I'd done with buying tools that have to be fettled.

Obviously I'll keep the massive Eclipse base as well, just in case.

06/01/2021 15:01:50

Thanks all.

I'm currently using a very large Eclipse base with a push-button magnet, fitted with a thick solid bar and a cast slider mechanism that holds the gauge arm. It has a worm-drive fine adjustment on the casting, which can very easily be zeroed, and is also rock solid when turning the DTI dial to zero. It is however very cumbersome when used on small machine tools, and the push-button very stiff to use.

I just wanted something smaller, and easier to adjust.

06/01/2021 13:20:55
Posted by Henry Brown on 06/01/2021 12:23:41:

I have a hydraulic Dasqua from Chronos, mid price range but very good.

dasqua hydraulic dit base.jpg

Thanks Henry.

What's the reasoning behind it being hydraulic?

06/01/2021 10:51:25

All,

Can anyone recommend a DTI holder - the articulated type with a central locking knob that locks all three joints in one action?

Prices seems to range from about £20 (including a DTI ! ), to about £200 for a Mitotoyo item.

Obviously I want one with a high force switchable magnet, and high rigidity.

Thanks.

Thread: Stuart Twin Victoria (Princess Royal) Mill Engine
29/12/2020 20:35:15

Got the fabricated bed drawings done - not quite to BS8888, and the check and approve process was a bit sketchy, but still:


Thread: Boxing Day Tidying
28/12/2020 23:44:21

Is that a Meccano No.0 biplane hanging over your bench?

Thread: Shimming Techniques
28/12/2020 09:09:25

Peter - there’s no quill feed in an SX2P. I’ve not tried any measurements in-process.

As I said, I tried many feeds and speeds right down to almost zero on the last bit of brass I was working on and still got the same squealing noise from the cutter that I get on steel. Eventually at very, very low speeds I end up with a drumming noise from the flutes. As Jason said, in that particular case it was probably too much depth of cut, but again, as I said before with very small depths I still get the noise when the flank of the cutter is next to the previously machined surface.

Anyway, rather that wait for pre-cut shims that may or may not ever get sent, I’ve made a template to cut my own shims again. I’ve already cut the end of my finger somehow - the 0.005” stuff is just the right stiffness for that.

Ill set it up again with the widest shims I can, and leave it at that. There’s nothing else to adjust apart from the spindle bearings which appear to be OK. I suppose I could nip them up a bit - not sure how you do it though. Presumably a lock ring on the spindle somewhere.

28/12/2020 00:45:34

Would the Arc 40mm 4 insert version be better overall? I’d need a separate R8 Arbour (not available at present), but the less vibration/knock the better AFAIC...

27/12/2020 18:19:33

That sounds good. So the cutting edges extend enough to give about a 5mm cut on the sides if necessary?

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