Here is a list of all the postings Andy Gray 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Model tug boat plans|
In the olden days (when I used to make model boats) I would transfer the lines onto graph paper by tracing or carbon paper then scale that by hand to whatever size I needed (drawing out a custom grid if it wasn't a straightforward multiple).
The full lines got transferred to templates using more carbon paper.
These days, you could probably do it all with a photocopier.
|Thread: Suggestions for lathe-only projects?|
With a little bit more expenditure you could get a finger collet to hold milling cutters in the headstock spindle (you would need to make a drawbar - e.g. a long bolt + collar), I guess a 6mm and/or a 10mm collet (<£10 each) could cover quite a range of milling cutters.
FWIW, In the limited amount of milling I have done on my lathe (not Myford) I find the cutters run more smoothly in a collet than in a chuck and it's easier to see what you're doing.
I'd honestly buy a cheap pillar drill before the milling slide.
This was made just using a lathe and a cheap pillar drill. I could have done without the pillar drill, but wouldn't want to. (Apologies for blowing my own trumpet, but one can make an awful lot of things on a lathe, and many, many people have - one is only limited by one's imagination.)
(OK, I bought the gears and the sparkplug!)
Edited By Andy Gray 3 on 28/11/2020 18:21:27
Edited By Andy Gray 3 on 28/11/2020 18:22:32
Edited By Andy Gray 3 on 28/11/2020 18:24:41
|Thread: Bearing identification|
The 99502H seems to have imperial ID & OD, but metric width:
This lists both (pdf file)
ID 0.6250" / 15.875mm
OD 1.375" / 34.925mm
Width 0.4331" / 11mm
Width 0.4375" (7/16" ) = (11.113 mm)
Edited By Andy Gray 3 on 27/11/2020 14:18:53
|Thread: Another engineering masterclass|
Funnily enough, this just popped up elsewhere:
They do seem to. I particularly admire the fact that he creates useable vehicles rather than 'engineering sculptures' what would fall to pieces if started.
Here's his little 4 cylinder 350 being revved to 7k RPM and hustled around some bends (towards the end of the video)
Here he's riding his V10 Dodge Viper engined bike (In part 2). He reckons to have put over 9000 miles on it since it was built.
I find it frankly astonishing that anything so monstrous could be engineered to be usable.
The fact that he's prepared to rest his nuts on it and open the throttle to hit 200mph also speaks of man who is confident in his engineering ability.
He also claims to have over 9k miles on the Pratt & Whitney 5 litre V twin
Edited By Andy Gray 3 on 25/11/2020 17:23:41
|Thread: Unimat 3 motor diode|
Looks like a DS 1.8 16A general purpose rectifier - 1.7A If / 1600V PIV
(Possibly used to half-wave rectify the incoming mains to give reduced speed, based on your description, but I have no knowledge of the Unimat circuit).
|Thread: Desperate times and desperate measures...|
I’d respectfully suggest using it as it is for a week or two to get the feel of it (making minor adjustments such as slideway gibs, etc.) before launching into a full strip-down.
Sometimes taking things to bits introduces new problems!
The Arc Euro Trade strip-down guide is very good.
Your lathe may not be identical, but it is likely to be very, very similar.
|Thread: Electric vehicles|
Re questions about emergency response:
|Thread: Horizontal hit and miss engine|
|Thread: Cutting Small Discs out of Glass|
It can work - the same principle is used to cut out circles commercially. You need to start the break from the outer edge of the glass sheet and get this to run into the circle. It's likely to take quite a bit of practice.
For small diameters, the circles are broken out thermally - using cold metal cylinders roughly the same size as the circle which are placed in liquid nitrogen, then onto the glass (after scoring)
You might get somewhere using a metal cylinder from the deep freeze to get the circle to break out, but I still think you'd need to break the outer square of glass to release it.
Unless it's for entertainment value I would go to core drilling one out (very cheap diamond core drills are available on Amazon, etc. which will work fine, but *must* be used wet). Or trepanning one with a metal lap and loose carborundum powder - anything will do for a one-off: I used a boot polish tin to trepan out a secondary mirror for a telescope. Needs a fairly slow drive though (I wouldn't dream of doing it by hand).
Or just buy one!
(Edit - you need just enough pressure on the cutter for it to create a vent in the glass - it will vary with the type of cutter. You will need to take into account some movement in the glass surface - i.e. the cutter cannot be rigidly mounted - it needs to float.)
Edited By Andy Gray 3 on 15/11/2020 21:43:45
|Thread: Cutting Microscope Slide Glass|
Cutting with a wheel or scribe relies on creating a vent (crack) in the glass surface that propagates through the thickness when that surface is put in tension.
Old glass becomes 'weathered' (even indoors) which both makes it harder to develop that initial crack, and also provides a plethora of microscopic defects which can lead a propagating crack to wander off.
(Sorry for 2nd message - can't seem to find how to include a separate quote).
I had read / heard the same thing (no idea where), but despite an almost unlimited supply of thin glass and repeated attempts, this never resulted in anything other than shattered glass. I would love to see someone actually doing it.
|Thread: Horizontal hit and miss engine|
I used a "Replacement Complete Ignition Set for Single Cylinder Gas Engines" module from Hobby King:
Unfortunately seems to be on back-order now
It needed some careful shaving down in order to hide it inside the engine pedestal.
Edited By Andy Gray 3 on 14/11/2020 18:47:18
|Thread: Lidl Portable Bandsaw|
I also weakened, having missed out on the Lidl saw due to the Welsh lockdown ban on non-essential bandsaw sales, and ordered the Aldi one. It arrived the other day and I'm favourably impressed (apart from the comedy vice, but even that can be induced to work). It's quite gratifying to hear that it's "better" than the Lidl one, rather than being a dearer version of the same thing.
The threads in the three arm mounting holes on mine were also ridiculously tight - I thought I had cross threaded them, but I hadn't.
Other than that, the saw appears quite substantial and feels very solid. It's cured me of the urge to build a power hacksaw
|Thread: Cutting Microscope Slide Glass|
A normal (tungsten carbide) wheel cutter should work OK down to about 0.5mm and give clean cuts. (Look after the cutting wheel - any chips out of its edge will be reflected in the glass cut quality).
You may struggle to break off the narrow edge of the slide - it might help to scribe all of the cut lines first (in a # pattern) then break the larger pieces, leaving the narrow edge until last. This avoids the tendency of the cut to run off at the start/end of the scribe line.
You may find that lubricant (white spirit, or similar) helps.
Keep everything clean...
Edit - if you can find a good edge on the diamond, that will work, too, but it does need to be a very sharp point to create a 'vent' in the glass. A worn diamond will scribe a line, but there won't be a vent under it and the glass won't break cleanly.
Edited By Andy Gray 3 on 13/11/2020 23:27:04
|Thread: 7x12 Bearing Spacer|
Posted by woody1 on 11/11/2020 20:14:02:
I bought my angular contacts...
Just checking - if woody1 is fitting A/C bearings, there shouldn't be any need to shorten the spacer, should there? The A/C bearings are supposed to be the same width as the originals, I believe.
Just re-make in metal to the existing dimensions? (My 7X lathe is a different make with a brushless motor, or I'd offer to measure the spacer!).
Very interesting - I've not been able to find (m)any objective before / after assessments of the effects of bearing replacement.
If you were to do it again, would you go with angular contact or taper roller?
|Thread: How can a steel thermos drinks flask fail?|
It'll be under the stairs, with the other one
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