Here is a list of all the postings Dave S has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Milling Speeds for end mills|
IIRC I run mine at 560, as it’s the closest speed on my mill...
|Thread: What bench drill|
When I had a pillar drill it was a cheap Chinese import - I think this particular one came from B&Q, but they are all quite similar.
Made the quill adjustable from “locked” to rattling fit - and so vastly improved the drill.
Then I got a proper sized Mill, with a huge quill and haven’t used a pillar drill since...
|Thread: Square block with round steel balls inside|
My father has such an Ivory Puzzle ball. I think it came from China, but my family has some connections with India, so maybe it’s from there.
|Thread: piercing saw|
Whilst I have an adjustable frame I have never felt the need to adjust it.
Quality blades do make a difference. I’m currently using Super Pike from Cookson Gold for most things.
Their platinum blades hold up better than normal ones for stainless and shin steel.
|Thread: Oouch hot fingers|
For the original question: I hold the blank in mole grips.
As for the dip in water or you’ll ruin it: Rubbish.
The “to hot to hold” temperature is around 50C IIRC ( Had to research this for a product at work) Way less than HSS annealing temps.
If you can get a HSS blank to annealing temps and hold it there on an offhand grinder then I’ll be amazed...
I used to grind slow and dip when I started, but then I gave it some thought.
Try abusing a piece of HSS - I have and it’s still as hard with blue temper colours on it. Most of my HSS tools have some tempering colour on them.
if you want a really sharp tool then grind it hard and fast, then hone it on a diamond bench stone. You’ll be making chips faster than the fussy man (it’s usually a man) who will still be faffing to not over heat his HSS.
One problem is that Starey et al were writing before HSS was commonly used in the home workshop. Sure if you grind a silver steel or carbon steel tool to blue you have drawn the temper and it won’t be as hard.
|Thread: Making a pinion with a fly cutter|
If you are losing the edge on your cutter rapidly that suggests either the heat treat was not good or you are running it too hard and this drawing the temper, which leads to softening, which then rubs and heats and so on in an unfortunate feedback loop. Are you using cutting oil? How fast are you turning the tool and what feed rate?
|Thread: Best way to remember Mill movements when turning hand wheels|
It becomes second nature after a period.
Im not sure right now (at work) which way turning does what, but I know if I’m stood in front of my machines I can “just” use them.
This became very obvious when I bought a cheap x-y table to make a cutter grinder.
|Thread: Best way to keep nuts tight (ha ha)|
The quill stop on my TOS just used 2 "nuts", which you lock together using finger pressure.
They are about 1" diameter and knurled, not plain hex nuts.
|Thread: Grinding my own external grooving cutter|
You can get away with a whole lot less side relief than shown.
The front face can be nearly vertical.
|Thread: Tapered Square metal punch anyone?|
Click spring over on YouTube has a video showing how:
Seems fairly straightforward
|Thread: Is a drip feed coolant advisable|
Don’t think I’ve ever used coolant on my Unimat.
To clear swarf I keep a value tooth brush with each machine.
|Thread: Change chuck on a seig c0?|
On my Unimat 4 (essentially the same) I open the belt guard and hold the pulley whilst unscrewing it.
There is a cross hole in the back of the spindle you can use to stop the spindle rotating of a gorilla has screwed on your chuck. In that case an adjustable spanner on a chuck jaw and a pin punch through the hole would do the job
|Thread: Hardening EN8?|
I thought the point of filing buttons was that they were dead hard and so the file just skated over them?
|Thread: Shellac questions|
Try holding a relatively long thin (say 0.5-1mm diameter and 10-15mm long) part to work on the end with superglue.
With shellac you can drill a hole, fill it up, warm it and then insert the part.
As with most things tool related it’s having the knowledge of the easy way which makes life simpler.
|Thread: Static balance gadget|
I made the ends of my grinding wheel balance arbour the size of the largest bearings I had hanging around, IIRC they were about 15mm ID/30mm OD
I flushed out the bearings with wd40 to remove all the grease and then set them into v blocks.
Can you make the ends of your arbour small and do a similar thing?
|Thread: Part breakout /fixturing|
Now my CNC has potential to work nicely I'm thinking about making things
I will be making some small watch parts, mostly 2d in general shape. I think I can effectively cut these out of sheet stock, but what's the best way to fixture it?
Additionally what do you do to prevent the part breaking out and jamming/snapping the end mill.
For general size the would be parts that require 1mm or smaller endmilll to get into internal radiuses, and typically 1mm or so thick.
I occurs to me that I could use (say) 1.5 mm gage plate,surface the top by 0.25, cut around the part leaving 0.25mm bottom stock. Then fill the "gutter" with shellac and flip over, probably on my surface grinder to remove the 0.25 left.
Any better techniques?
|Thread: Measuring Gears (including pressure angle)|
Another method, assuming involute teeth:
Take some plasticine or other softish clay like material, create a small block on a flat surface and then roll the gear over it.
The matching rack form is then created and the pressure angle can be measured directly with a protractor from the sides of the flanks.
|Thread: 2mm endmill help|
I stuffed the endmill into the collet further - as I could do now its ER16. This spindle is loads quieter, both cutting and idling.
I'll run the job from scratch once the bearings are sorted, but I am also interested - that should allow me to tune which is where I started this whole thing.
As it was all looking good I even went and sat in the garden with a beer, keeping an ear out for the noise.
End result of the roughing pass:
Somethings gone wrong here, the pocket is supposed to be a curve:
That's why I took the stock off - cant run the finish on it until the leadscrew is sorted, which means stripping the table out...
Still, massive progress, and the new spindle seems to have made a difference.
Many years ago I needed to do some very small precision drilling, so I bought one of ARCs ER16 high speed spindles.
That project got done and as part of workshop tidy the spindle got packed away for “later”.
I don’t think they still sell them, but similar spindles can be found out of China.
it runs of an invertor, 750w and 4-24k rpm IIRC
Bit overkill for this mill I suspect, but already in the workshop and should solve the runout issue.
Seemed worth a try for the time investment
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