Here is a list of all the postings Dave S has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Could a Car A/C pump be converted into a compressor|
Pretty sure American off roasters do something like this (air con pump as compressor).
IIRC they can then lower tyre pressures for certain sections of a trail with the ability to pump them back up as required.
|Thread: Help with boring an interior cone|
For a 1 off at that size I would make a 60 degree point on a piece of silver steel, then file away the “top” to make a d bit. Add a little clearance on the none cutting bits. Harden and temper to straw.
for a larger cone then setting the cross slide over at 30 degrees (half angle) and feed in with that to bore - which is probably what is meant. The problem with that is the bottom of the bore - if required to be a point will need a boring tool which is very pointy.
|Thread: bore measurement|
If they are a cheap set then dismantle them and deburr the bits. A small dab of moly grease on reassembly helps as well.
Then using them is a question of practice mostly.
select a gage where the range is appropriate - if there is an overlap I usually use the larger size gage as the telescoping pieces are less sticking out that way.
Then tighten the end piece so the gage will move, but is stiff. You may need to figure this out out of the bore until you have done it a few times.
move the handle from the side of the bore through the centre to the other side. Try to sweep in a single movement and along the diameter. As you pass through the centre the gage should tighten and then loosen. This is the bore squashing in the telescopes and then as you pass the centre they become shorter than the diagonal.
fully tighten the lock.
Only sweep once, then carefully remove the gage from the bore without bumping it.
Now you can measure over the ends gently. Be aware that a micrometer is also a g clamp - if you monkey it you will change the measurement.
You should be able to repeat measurement to under a thou without much practice, but it does take some practice.
If you have some ball races then you can practice with those, and know your measurements are correct, as the bores are quite tightly specified.
hope that helps
|Thread: CVA 1A series 3 travelling steady|
Does that mean you have a travelling steady for sale then?
On mine there are a pair of hole on the chuck side and a pair on the tail stock side:
I have no travelling steady, only the fixed one.
|Thread: Milling Speeds for end mills|
IIRC I run mine at 560, as it’s the closest speed on my mill...
|Thread: What bench drill|
When I had a pillar drill it was a cheap Chinese import - I think this particular one came from B&Q, but they are all quite similar.
Made the quill adjustable from “locked” to rattling fit - and so vastly improved the drill.
Then I got a proper sized Mill, with a huge quill and haven’t used a pillar drill since...
|Thread: Square block with round steel balls inside|
My father has such an Ivory Puzzle ball. I think it came from China, but my family has some connections with India, so maybe it’s from there.
|Thread: piercing saw|
Whilst I have an adjustable frame I have never felt the need to adjust it.
Quality blades do make a difference. I’m currently using Super Pike from Cookson Gold for most things.
Their platinum blades hold up better than normal ones for stainless and shin steel.
|Thread: Oouch hot fingers|
For the original question: I hold the blank in mole grips.
As for the dip in water or you’ll ruin it: Rubbish.
The “to hot to hold” temperature is around 50C IIRC ( Had to research this for a product at work) Way less than HSS annealing temps.
If you can get a HSS blank to annealing temps and hold it there on an offhand grinder then I’ll be amazed...
I used to grind slow and dip when I started, but then I gave it some thought.
Try abusing a piece of HSS - I have and it’s still as hard with blue temper colours on it. Most of my HSS tools have some tempering colour on them.
if you want a really sharp tool then grind it hard and fast, then hone it on a diamond bench stone. You’ll be making chips faster than the fussy man (it’s usually a man) who will still be faffing to not over heat his HSS.
One problem is that Starey et al were writing before HSS was commonly used in the home workshop. Sure if you grind a silver steel or carbon steel tool to blue you have drawn the temper and it won’t be as hard.
|Thread: Making a pinion with a fly cutter|
If you are losing the edge on your cutter rapidly that suggests either the heat treat was not good or you are running it too hard and this drawing the temper, which leads to softening, which then rubs and heats and so on in an unfortunate feedback loop. Are you using cutting oil? How fast are you turning the tool and what feed rate?
|Thread: Best way to remember Mill movements when turning hand wheels|
It becomes second nature after a period.
Im not sure right now (at work) which way turning does what, but I know if I’m stood in front of my machines I can “just” use them.
This became very obvious when I bought a cheap x-y table to make a cutter grinder.
|Thread: Best way to keep nuts tight (ha ha)|
The quill stop on my TOS just used 2 "nuts", which you lock together using finger pressure.
They are about 1" diameter and knurled, not plain hex nuts.
|Thread: Grinding my own external grooving cutter|
You can get away with a whole lot less side relief than shown.
The front face can be nearly vertical.
|Thread: Tapered Square metal punch anyone?|
Click spring over on YouTube has a video showing how:
Seems fairly straightforward
|Thread: Is a drip feed coolant advisable|
Don’t think I’ve ever used coolant on my Unimat.
To clear swarf I keep a value tooth brush with each machine.
|Thread: Change chuck on a seig c0?|
On my Unimat 4 (essentially the same) I open the belt guard and hold the pulley whilst unscrewing it.
There is a cross hole in the back of the spindle you can use to stop the spindle rotating of a gorilla has screwed on your chuck. In that case an adjustable spanner on a chuck jaw and a pin punch through the hole would do the job
|Thread: Hardening EN8?|
I thought the point of filing buttons was that they were dead hard and so the file just skated over them?
|Thread: Shellac questions|
Try holding a relatively long thin (say 0.5-1mm diameter and 10-15mm long) part to work on the end with superglue.
With shellac you can drill a hole, fill it up, warm it and then insert the part.
As with most things tool related it’s having the knowledge of the easy way which makes life simpler.
|Thread: Static balance gadget|
I made the ends of my grinding wheel balance arbour the size of the largest bearings I had hanging around, IIRC they were about 15mm ID/30mm OD
I flushed out the bearings with wd40 to remove all the grease and then set them into v blocks.
Can you make the ends of your arbour small and do a similar thing?
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