Here is a list of all the postings Dave S has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Stainless Watch case|
Will edit later at home - and pull the photos locally.
They all show for me - but then if they didn't I would have noticed...
I originally planned to make the case and stem tube in one piece, but the rather large hole required a new plan.
I filed 4 'teeth' onto it.
The original crown and stem fit beautifully, Feels like the o-ring seals will be fine.
Of course its somewhat fiddly to get at the crown with it totally surrounded by a guard.
Flip and repeat for the other side
Ta Da! now its simpler to get to
The milling has left somewhat sharp lines on the guard.
I wanted to blend them, so with the help of a hot glue gun and a piece of carbide I made a radius filing jig.
My little assistant helps to illustrate the size of these things
Crown sorted now time to do the light pusher.
Then made a quite long, stepped and very thin thing. To turn this on the lathe would have been 'tricky', especially as the stock is already hardened.
All the bits are made - time for some finishing. I surface ground the straight edges, of course scrapbinium is not magnetic, so I had to make a fixture to hold the case to the chuck. First I ground the sides and then I added some facets - to reduce the weighty look of what is admittedly a large is chunk of metal.
The end result came out ok I think.
Couple of years ago Daughter picked up a cheap 'dive inspired' quartz watch. Not a bad thing, and for a couple of quid it was reasonably priced given it didn't appear to work.
I started by bunging a bar of recently acquired stainless scrapbinium in the lathe and set to. (Anvil for Scale )
The stick out was a bit much, so I set up the steady in avoidance of wearing a 2" diameter chunk of steel
Faced the bar off to give me an idea of what I was working with,
and then chucked a hole at the middle - the movement is actually a lozenge shape, so I roughed out the movement hole and the step for the crystal and chapter ring.
That done I bevelled the front and parted off a roughly case sized ring.
The hacking out of the movement hole will come later - on the Milling machine.
Seems I didn't take any photos of the initial lug cutting, but now the round is more of a case blank shape
The movement actually sits pressed up against the back of the chapter ring, so my datum point was the recess that the chapter ring sits in. The back of the blank is not yet at a specific place, so I made a brass plug to sit on the chapter ring ledge and allow me to set up from the other side
These 2 mini slots define the ends of the lozengeish movement shape.
There followed a lot of strange angle milling - which I apparently took no photos of - but that's not too surprising as I had to concentrate a lot...
Then the movement fits!
You can see the odd shape in the plastic case here.
Next up was to work out where the stem and light pusher holes needed to be, and what size.
What you can't see in this picture is the snapped carbide drill bit inside the nearly completed hole
These things happen, but I was a little 'upset' about it.
Fortunately I've picked up a few machinists rescue methods...
This is a single lip cutter - its ground out of a solid carbide bar and is a fair amount bigger that the hole I intended to make, but needs must - I can always sleeve it (shh - spoilers
I machined the round surface flat first, so I had a good starting point, and then pecking 1 thousandth of an inch at a time I proceeded to drill out the broken bit and the rest of the hole. Incidentally the plaster is in no way related to the watch case.
Now seemed like a good time to make it more watch case shaped, so I created some angled sides - Straight edges and curves are IMO a good design statement.
Whilst I had the case setup I put in the spring bar holes - I prefer drilled lugs as it makes strap changing much easier.
Part 2 to follow as the post is too long
|Thread: Help with surface plates in Derby|
Eley metrology can probably recondition your plates, but I bet it is more cost effective to buy a new granite one.
My 4’x2’6” table has a planed finish. It’s flat (for some values of flatness - workshop grade and well out of certification. .
|Thread: Lathe protection|
If your storing it get some boeshield on the machined surfaces.
|Thread: Lathe cover|
My lathe ways get a good coverage of way oil during use, they don’t seem to rust when standing.
Same for the mill.
No covers here.
|Thread: Parting off problem|
End of tool is slightly not square, causing it to bend slightly would be my guess
|Thread: Help with machining Titanium|
For a ring Grade 2 would be my choice - it’s reasonably available. I’d get a piece in bar form unless you can find a tube.
Making a ring a swarf fire is unlikely, but be aware of heat buildup.
|Thread: Is buying a custom ground tool my only option??|
Could you get away with a V groove? You’ll end up with a line contact on the balls, but that may be sufficient for your application. Grinding a V to suitable accuracy should be no harder than a threading tool.
|Thread: Apkt size?|
they must be 1003 then.
Last night I had a proper crash moment and my favourite insert endmill (16mm dia) is now less endmilly and more scrap.
My google-fu is weak today and I haven’t managed to find a chart with measurements that would allow me to determine what I have.
I think they are 1604, but it seems all the bodies in the size I use take 1003.
Can anyone tell me what I need to measure to know?
|Thread: Dressing / Truing a resin diamond wheel|
Im still building my tool grinder, but I have enough bits to do a few trial grinds to make sure that all the various angles and such work ok.
I have an alloy bodied resin diamond wheel that I am using - you can see it in this photo:
I have had it for a while, and it’s been used on the previous iterations of this grinder.
|Thread: Re-making a centre hole in a small crackshaft|
Given the bearing by the crank there is a reference surface there. Either remove the bearing, or use its outer race with some greedy soft jaws such as these:
Now if required can slap on some weld to build up if needed and then machine and remake centre.
|Thread: 2D and 3D Cad Software Recommendations|
I tend to use LibreCAD for 2d for the laser cutter. Mostly like AutoCAD used to be and exports a DXF that the Laser understands - Fusion DXF is to new a version for the laser software.
|Thread: So, you know about clocks!|
You could try Bernard Whitworth near Newark.
|Thread: Locking Bearing preload nut|
Given the nut is pressing against a bearing that will spin freely it will have little tendency to unscrew.
As the bearings are "solid' the preload will not need to be continuously adjusted.
Simple solution, if it was me doing it, light or possibly medium threadlock.
|Thread: Nickel Electroplating|
So if you stop at the right point you’ll end up with a nickel finish?
Might it depend on the voltage?
A different Dave
|Thread: Securing workpiece for parting in lathe or 'left feed'|
I use centre support all the time on the CVA.
This is mystery steel, about 2" diameter:
Just remember to loosen it of as you get towards the actual cut off.
|Thread: Can you recommend a UK supplier for good quality "mill board"?|
So there is an implicit symmetry in the stack up.
Thinking production you presumably will cut the parts from a larger sheet, so an additional op to thin the edges first saves a glue stack up op.
Can you enlighten us about the fundamental changes that having an unbalanced 1+1.5 laminate would cause? In your stack up:
0.15 - Protective film (minimum)
You make no mention of anything “in the middle”, and by your numbers it would add up to 2.9, just inside your sweet spot for thickness.
If you make it to production then presumably you’ll make an order for the right thickness of custom board, so no complexity there.
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