Here is a list of all the postings Erik Werner Hansen has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Which Lathe???|
I have a german manual for the MLZ4S, which is the same, just with a more comprehensive feeds gearbox.
I was looking for a MLZ4 myself - until I got my Chippie.
A chipmaster is nearly 52 inches in length, but then you have to modify the hinges for the changewheel cover. I'll have to do that myself, since I don't have the room to fully open it.
But a Chipmaster with a working variator is becoming a rare item these days, I think. And it may be more lathe than the OP is asking for. I think it's a great lathe, but less might do?
Footprint is not all - I wanted a FP1 tool mill. Then I read the FP2 has only a slightly larger footprint. Forgotten was the much larger range of the X-axis, and in all it is much more beefy. So when every FP1 went to someone else (on eBay), I bid on a FP2 - and won. I now have one of each in my small 12 square meter workshop and I can attest, the FP2 takes up quite a bit more space. Half of it is intimidation, as the FP1 is smallish and rather cute, while the FP2 looks like it means business. 1100 kg vs. 660 kg is quite the increase.
So it is when comparing the Super7 with the Chipmaster.
But to the OP I'll say: Buy as much lathe as you have space for and can afford.
Edited By Erik Werner Hansen on 08/04/2020 18:36:42
Edited By Erik Werner Hansen on 08/04/2020 18:37:04
Edited By Erik Werner Hansen on 08/04/2020 18:38:23
A 1000 RPM max. must be because it's a training lathe, built for education.
A new motor, a VFD or a new pulley could change that easily. VFD is best - gives unlimited range.
At that price, compared to the other lathes, I would do that. It looks like a good offer.
I don't, because I have a Colchester Chipmaster "Continental" at 550 kg - too much for the OP.
I have had a number of Super7's in great condition and left them because of:
1. Only imperial leadscrew - if fitted with gearbox, then changewheels needed anyway, so why bother?
2. No automatic stop or protection at all - if you make a mistake, it's costly.
3. Threaded spindle nose - no quick braking or backlwards running.
4. Size. Why pay a lot for a small, old design just because it's cult?
I did that - and a Super7 is nice, but the only improvement since ca.1958 was power cross feed in 1974.
I smile every time I touch my Chipmaster - it just feels so good. I fitted a Multifix toolholder - nice.
And I kept the variator, even if Tony Griffiths falsely tells anyone to chuck the variator and use a VFD.
The variator, although an old mechanical design, works wonderfully and is 3 times as good as a VFD!
A Bantam is a cheaper version of the Chipmaster with gears instead of variator. Very common. Check for noise
- gears wear, especially if abused in a school. But it should have the same feel as the Chippie. And it has a
Camlock D1-3" spindle nose. Do yourself a favour and get Camlock (DIN55029) or Keyhole (DIN55027 (or 22))
A Weiler LZ220 or Weiler Primus lathe would fit you sizewise as table lathes, but the first is rare and expensive
and the other really costs a bloody fortune (I have had both).
Edited By Erik Werner Hansen on 07/04/2020 18:43:10
|Thread: Hi From Denmark|
About the Quorn Mk. III: I read, if you have a mill, it's much easier to build. If it won't sell, I may end up building it myself. I have a very versatile mill, so it should be doable. Although i don't have that much experience using it.
Yes, I remember the late Ron Chernich wrote a great article about his build.
About my kit - I would buy the Mk.III CAD drawings and build manual had I chosen to build it myself.
I think in metric only and that may have been one reason why I did not build it.
About the Chevalier motor - yes, it's three phase. And in Denmark three phase power is standard.
But I have also picked up a one-to-three phase VFD at the local scrapyard. And am crossing my fingers it works.
Edited By Erik Werner Hansen on 30/03/2020 17:07:27
Edited By Erik Werner Hansen on 30/03/2020 17:07:57
First, a picture of a Falcon Chevalier FCG-610 benchtop (125 kg) grinder:
It may be discontinued. I managed to get brochure, bad text manual and a price list from the Danish dealer.
Mine is green and has another stone guard. It needs a clean and new slide balls (on their way).
I plan on using a VFD, so I can adjust RPM to stone size and type. I would have used it on the Quorn.
And I found another diamond dresser, so I can include the correct one with the Quorn kit.
|Thread: I Hate Brass!|
I have made the finest curls with a sharp HSS bit in my Diamond Tool Holder.
But I'm sure I'll now make some kind of guard next time anyway.
Why not make it easier on myself?
|Thread: Best Milling Machine Ever????|
The one I have, of course . Deckel FP2 1966 vintage.
500mm x-axis, 200mm + 200mm y-axis with 200mm or 300mm more in sliding head, 400mm z.axis.
Hmm, it might be possible to slide the fixed table and get even more in x.
At least, username AlfaGTA (very knowable) of Practical Machinist say it's the best manual mill....
Edited By Erik Werner Hansen on 28/03/2020 21:03:05
|Thread: Hi From Denmark|
Pgk, it's just a plane with a rotating wing.
If the engine stops, you just glide down to a safe landing -
much, much shorter in a fixed-wing. With a landing roll of just a few meters.
Remember, the rotor is in the autorotation state all the time.
For all of us, it's about making sure the propeller keeps turning.
And almost all modern gyros use Rotax four-stroke engines.
You should try a ride - it's great fun. They are very maneuverable.
Edited By Erik Werner Hansen on 28/03/2020 18:10:26
Edited By Erik Werner Hansen on 28/03/2020 18:26:21
Edited By Erik Werner Hansen on 28/03/2020 18:26:35
|Thread: New beginner; Russell|
Hi and welcome. (I just arrived here myself
I happen to have a very nice example of "The Amateur's Lathe" (1999 print) by L. H. Sparey.
I bought it back when I had a Myford Super 7, but I haven't read much in the book.
If interested, please write. At least you can read about turning, right?
Edited By Erik Werner Hansen on 28/03/2020 17:21:05
|Thread: Hi From Denmark|
Thank you all.
Pgk, at least some of them must've been laughing, I guess. I'm reading up on PPL ground school now, so I can fly my own Auto-Gyro MTO Sport this summer (I hope). That's one of the few gyros, you can have in the UK.
David, you live in the country with all the good stuff (ok, both UK and Germany). So you should have every opportunity to have a great workshop. I remember reading about schools that were happy dealers would remove all their lathes for free...!
Using it... do I need to have any special reason?? Well, I thought I wanted to make parts for R/C model aircraft and helicopters, but we don't fly much at all. Then there is this single seat gyrocopter I've been collecting parts and materials for through many years, the "Gyrobee". Inspired as a boy in 1967 watching Wing Commander Kenneth Wallis flying his WA-116 in the James Bond movie "You Only Live Twice".
Alan, your name rings a bell somewhere. You're not the one who claims to have a 1956 Chippie?
Anyway, if any of you find a set of changewheels for the "Continental" Chippie, please write me. Or even, if you find some 14DP 14½ deg. pressure angle gears (20, 24, 28, 30, 36, 42, 44, 48, 52, 56, 57, 60x2, 66, 69 and 70).
All for now,
Edited By Erik Werner Hansen on 28/03/2020 16:14:48
Edited By Erik Werner Hansen on 28/03/2020 16:15:13
Hi. While searching for changewheels for my metric Chipmaster I stumbled ove a post from someone choosing between a Student and a Chippie.
So I felt I had to join in order to answer. The time is right, as I become a free man this coming friday. And I plan on my small workshop becoming a larger part of my life.
Having a Chippie, it was inevitable I years ago found John Stevenson's work onto his Bantam, which has the same bed (top) and mine.
I like my Chippie very much, I always smile when I use it. It's a Goldilucks machine, it feels just right...
My self-made workshop is just 12 square meters, 4.5m x 2.7m inside. Still I have managed to cram in a Deckel FP2 tool mill, the Chippie, a vertical metal bandsaw, a worktable with cabinets between the legs, an FP1 large tool cabinet, a Chevalier desktop tool and cutter grinder, a heavy bench drill and a smaller cabinet with drawers - with a cut-off saw on top. And my latest acquisition - a Deckel FP1 tool mill in need of some TLC.
Now I just need to place my TIG welder and the large FP3 swivelling table for the FP2 mill... I have run out of space completely. But I guess we always do.
So the scene is set for retirement!
|Thread: Lathe Advice - Colchester|
I own a Continental (metric) Chipmaster and joined this minute just to answer your post. Earlier I didn't like theChippie, as it has a peculiar design, a bit of a pyramid.
But when I sold my old lathe, I suddenly liked it. And I bought one in UK - from a school, I was told.
I had to repair the variator - and I'm glad I did. The ranges 35 - 300 RPM and 350 - 3000 RPM - that's simply not possible with a VFD. Tony Griffiths of lathes.co.uk is wrong, when he tells everyone to just chuck the variator.
I bought a VFD when I bought the lathe, and I would have loved to use it (they are so sexy imo), but it would degrade the machine. The Matrix clutch works great, but the brake is useful only when threading. The rear of my headstock leaks oil, but that's my own fault. It did not, when I received it.
I would love to have the changewheels, so I could make inch threads, but I found some just once, and they went to someone else. A Thread Dial Indicator does not exist at all.
The Imperial version is really the best; it has integrated dial indicator (inch pitches only) and it still has a lot of metric pitches as standard.
Problem is, new owners don't know how to treat the variator: Only one oil must be used (Shell Morlina BL10) and you have to give the assembly correct preload (easily done).
If you choose a Chipmaster, please write me, I have all info you need.
Erik (from Denmark)
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.