Here is a list of all the postings Peter Howell 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 26 tpi thread|
Thanks. I thought it probably would be brass but I thought I'd check.
I need to make an adaptor to pressure test my loco boiler. The safety valve has a 26tpi thread.
Would this be Brass or Cycle ? Both have 26 tpi, brass is 55 deg. cycle 60
|Thread: Sharpening Lathe Tools|
Yes to all these replies, But what I was really after was at what point would you stop regrinding to sharpen and start afresh.
I've got several HSS tools that cut well but have been sharpened so many times that the cutting edge is getting quite small, Or if the side face has been reground have quite a shoulder limiting their use when facing.
And when starting over how do you remove the old - they are going to take a considerable amount of grinding back. Cut the end off with an angle grinder?
There is plenty of advice on grinding lathe tools but what about resharpening them.
Do you grind the front face, the side face or the top face?
Then where ever you grind you are going to make the cutting area smaller. At what point do you decide enough is enough and start over again?
I'd be interested in hearing what others do.
|Thread: Hornby on TV|
I agree. Rather disappointing. Too general, not enough detail.
Yesterday TV does have some interesting programs, but trying to watch them on catch-up (UKTV Play) is really bad for adverts, often get 8 in a row + 3 or 4 on start up.
Some months ago Smokerings in Model Eng, mentioned Yesterday TV were making a series behind the scenes at Hornby.
I've just seen a trailer on Yesterday TV for it saying it starts this Monday.
|Thread: Identifying brass?|
Thanks for the replys. Yes its bronze.
So is it going to be any use to me? It's about 1" dia.
I've been give an old boat propeller shaft. It looks to be a very useable piece of bar.
How can I identify if it is brass or bronze. A quick 'Google' shows boat prop shafts have been made from both. (Now nearly all are stainless). Colour wise it looks like brass.
|Thread: Plugging incorrect holes|
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I've been looking at the job this morning. Most things look better in the light of day.
The simplest solution , in this case, is just to remake the bracket that it fixes to to suit the incorrect holes. It's only made from a piece of angle. Hopefully no one will notice they are not on the centre line.
I managed to drill and tap 3 x M3 holes in the wrong place in a cast iron casting. (measured from wrong face !)
I need to plug them and re-drill however the correct holes will slightly overlap the incorrect ones.
My first thought is fix a sawn off screws in the holes with Loctite Retainer, but will they stay put with the new holes overlapping ?
Any other ideas.
|Thread: Fosse way Exhibition Centre|
I think it is or was TEE
|Thread: Multi-part assembly drawing|
Surely in TurboCAD when you insert a view into your 'Paper' Space you can change the scale. So all you need do is create a separate view of the detail, insert it into Paper than increase its scale as much as you need.
I've just checked this. I am running an old 2016 version Turbo that I've never transferred to my new Laptop so I had to fire up the old computer and checked last night.
The discussion my query provoked has be most interesting.
Personally I get a great deal of satisfaction from producing a good drawing, and you can do it sitting down in the warm !
I have enjoyed Technical Drawing (as it was called) at secondary school. I still have a book given to me as a school prize for that subject. Then in the early 1980's I introduced a very early CAD system into the small engineering company I was working for. A program called RoboCAD running on an early IBM PC. I was still involved in producing drawings for them up until I retired in 2000. But only in 2D. After that I bought my own copy of TurboCAD and continued producing drawings for my own use - but to a reasonable standard.
Now I thought it about time to stretch the grey matter and try to get to grips with 3D. FreeCAD is free so nothing to loose if I give up. I have been told I should have signed up as a hobbyist for Fusion360. But I'd already started producing some stuff with FreeCAD.
The latest version of FreeCAD - 0.19, (Not yet a stable release so may have bugs) has Assemblies. But even with the stable 0.18 it is easy enough to move and align parts.
I think I'll stick to separate drawings for components but import into an assembly to check for fit.
FreeCAD easily produces an orthographic (either 1st or 3rd angle) drawing on what ever paper size you want. It will also produce G-Code, though I've not tried this yet. I used to use TurboCad and Vectric Cut2D.
Thanks - It's always interesting to get others ideas. A lot of knowledgeable people out there !!
Yes. In 2D draughting I've always give each part its own drawing. But now in 3D I'm wondering if it's better to have everything assembled as it goes, then separate them out later to produce a production drawing. It would mean that the total drawing, consisting of all the component part, will get very big (computer big, not physically big)
My first foray into 3D modeling, using FreeCAD.
My question is with an assembly consisting of many parts, such as a steam loco, is it best to draw each part separately and import them into a separate assembly drawing or draw everything on the one drawing toggling the visibility of each part as it is drawn and placing it in its correct position as you go ?
|Thread: Transporting Loco|
Thanks for the advice.
Thinking about the problem I will cut a piece of plywood to be a fairly good fit on the boot floor so that it can't move sideways or fore and aft. Then screw some angle iron to make rails for the loco to sit on and some sort of bars like Clive mentions over the buffer beams clamped down to the ply.
I'll give this a try first and see how it feels then modify as necessary.
I agree with 'not done it yet' it does need to be restrained. I may drive carefully but there are some idiots about.
My Polly loco is almost complete.
I've now got to give some though about transporting it to the club site. I've made a scissor lift to get the height right for loading into the back of my car, then I'd thought of a board with angle iron rails to actually get it in. But what about securing the loco. A strap over the top might cause more damage than it would prevent. I'd wondered about a couple of bars through the wheels bolted down to the board.
With the present situation there is no activity at the club track so I can't see what other members do.
So what do other people do
|Thread: Christmas Cracker Jokes .. and similar|
My most useless Christmas present from last Christmas:
A 2020 wall planner
|Thread: Alternative to 365/office etc.|
I've used Libre Office since retiring (10 years ago).
I'm just playing with FreeCAD, a 3D modelling program - open source so free. It will generate G-code so I'm hoping to use it with my CNC mill. It looks very promising but 3D modelling is totally different to 2D drawing. I didn't think much to Libre CAD - not compared to my paid for Windows TurboCAD
When I had my own small business I used a very good open source finance program called GnuCash.
Oh yes - I'm virtually gone over exclusively to using Linux Mint. I've kept the ability to boot into Windows should I need it - like to use TurboCAD.
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