Here is a list of all the postings Ronald Morrison has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Calipers - Dial v digital|
It's time for you to join the 19th century and move to digital. The fact that your eyesight has changed enough to move you from a vernier tells me that in a few more you won't be able to read the dial caliper either. Voice of experience. Buy a cheap digital caliper and a pack of batteries as the the cheap calipers use batteries more frequently than the more expensive ones. Use that digital caliper for a month, using it's ability to switch between imperial and metric measurements and being able to reset zero to read incremental measurements instead of having to calculate how much stock is left to remove. Use it lots in that month. Then rethink whether you want a dial caliper or not. By the way, you only need one spare battery, not an entire pack. My most used digital needs the battery replace about once per year.
Edited By Ronald Morrison on 01/12/2020 10:38:32
|Thread: Neil's thread re review of digital calipers|
I have a cheap carbon fiber digital caliper. I use it all the time but I do note that the accuracy is only 2 digits imperial instead of the 3 digits of the stainless steel one. Quick measurement to get an idea of the size, the carbon fiber framed one works fine. If I need more precision the stainless steel one comes out.
Wild guess about why people want to call Ebay, Fleabay. Being cheap as some are wont to be, they found a "bargain" and without doing any research on the item or the seller, hastily made the purchase. When the item arrived they were upset because it wasn't the same quality as that item from a well known name would have been and thus called it fleabay as a slightly derogatory name.
|Thread: Bearing identification|
if you spend enough time on bearing manufacturers websites trying to sort out the terminology the use so you can compare the various bearings between suppliers you will become more confused and frustrated. Unless the bearing is a very special application that requires high precision and high speed operation, just measure the ID, OD, and width and pick a bearing. If the lip seals won't keep the dust out, nothing will. Greasing the bearing won't be of much help as you can't push out all the dust that is in the bearing but simply dilute the grease/dust mix that is in there. Hopefully the location of the bearing will make for easy replacement. Buy 2 or more and store the spares where you can find them.
Wild guess? Speed of operation. Most bearings in agricultural use are slow turning. Other bearings might need better quality as speed is much higher. Now you need to explain where the bearings are used. What kind of agricultural equipment and where on that equipment?
|Thread: Left Hand Acme Threads|
Is there a reason you can't use a Delrin (acetal) nut? They would be much easier to machine that metal and can be melt formed to the acme screw you have for a nut with near zero backlash.
|Thread: Insert for internal ACME thread?|
Do a quick search for the word "evanut". Near zero backlash.
|Thread: unimat 3 problems with support twist|
NEMA17 is the frame size of the motor. They come in different lengths with differing torques. It does appear that they range from 0.23Nm to the 0.5Nm so they might not work for this application. The size is approximately 43mm square. A NEMA 23 has much higher holding torque and is only a bit bigger at 57mm square.
|Thread: Draft Site change of status and program down load not working|
Can you import your Draftsight files to FreeCAD? It's free and open source and allows both 2D and 3D modelling.
|Thread: Parting off with a 5/6" toolpost|
You might have to do some talking with the seller and pay shipping since this offer is free shipping to the US only but this set of 5/16" tools might be what you have been looking for.
Edited By Ronald Morrison on 17/11/2020 12:21:57
|Thread: unimat 3 problems with support twist|
I don't really know as I have none to look at but from researching it appears that the non-captive stepper has an integral ball nut that is rotated to push or pull the screw. The screw does not rotate so it can be fastened solid to whatever you want to move and the very minimal backlash of the ball screw makes it accurate.
|Thread: Solid Rubber Oil Seal|
Speaking with the seal suppliers without knowing the exact name of the seal can be frustrating. If you can take one of the old seals to a hydraulic specialty shop, just looking at it will likely to get the exact name and they may have them in stock.
|Thread: Sieg C1 lathe autofeed and screw cutting|
The fact that the lathe motor can be run in reverse makes threading to a shoulder for imperial threads much easier. With the motor running in reverse use a boring bar with a thread cutting end on the backside of the stock , bring it to the shoulder, then engage the "half nut'. Now you cut threads away from the shoulder so you don't have to have lightning reflexes. Making a stop for the carriage lets you set the starting point so the tool never hits the shoulder.
|Thread: Calliper - Dial reading|
If your eyesight starts to go bad the fact that you have to replace a battery occasionally will not bother you so much as not being able to see the numbers on the dial nor the lines on the vernier. I have to replace the battery about once a year on each of my digital calipers. Since I know that, I keep a few spares on hand.
Why not save yourself the agonizing over the metric dial caliper and just get a digital? The cost is not much different, the digital has numbers big enough to read and with a quick push of a button becomes an imperial caliper. Very easy to set a new zero as when you are turning to a specific dimension you can set that dimension as a zero and read how much needs to be removed to get the intended dimension.
|Thread: Choosing a lathe|
I also didn't know what I would be using the lathe for but I inherited a 10X24 inch Chinese made lathe with a gap bed. Now that I have had it for several years I know what I would use the gap bed for as I did need it for one project. It came with a steady rest which I also have found a use for. Bigger is better in my mind because I can still make little parts on a big lathe but no big parts on a little lathe. With that in mind, space available and how to handle the weight of the lathe getting it to that available space must be considered even before checking your wallet to see if you can afford it.
|Thread: Budget CNC|
Does the CNC he desires need to be able to cut metal? Would a wood cutting CNC machine satisfy him for a while? How about helping him build a CNC router? With that approach he/you can save some money and have a better understanding what it takes to make a CNC machine. Knowing that will set him up to be better able to understand and use a CNC mill. Here are a couple videos on making one.
|Thread: Overrating a power supply for a DC motor?|
How fat is your wallet? Ideally you want a power supply that can produce 24 volts (motor is rated for that voltage) and infinite amperage. That would keep the voltage constant over any load possible. Now you know that the motor can only draw 11 amps maximum so in theory a power supply that can produce 24 volts and 11 amps should be sufficient but in the real world, as the power supply approaches that maximum load the voltage drops. I'd probably be looking for a supply that could produce twice the rated amperage as that should be fully capable of maintaining the voltage at 24V but then I would compare that supply cost to how my wallet looks and think about a compromise. How often would I need that full power? What will be the consequences if the voltage drops a bit under full load?
|Thread: Milling spindle motor - AC or DC|
Speed control technology has rapidly advanced such that what is available for speed control for DC motors now wasn't available when the book was written. What was normally achieved by changing pulleys can now be adjusted with the turn of a potentiometer. The advent of technology to create brushless motors with high performance is quite new also, again probably since the book was written. It is also possible that the author has a bias.
|Thread: Cheap Milling Vice Question|
Put an endmill or fly cutter into the spindle of your mini mill and measure the distance to the bed. Now subtract the height of the vice you mentioned from that to see what size of material you can fit into the remaining space. You may decide that the swivel base will take up too much of the space available for the amount of times you will benefit from the swivel.
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