Here is a list of all the postings Bo'sun has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New member in the Scottish Borders|
I'm not sure Warco know how to do it. I asked, and got a somewhat vague answer about swapping some gears to reverse the leadscrew. I don't think it even says anything in the manual. Not that it's the most informative manual anyway.
Check that you have enough change gears. The "toolbox list" says 10, although you only get 7. Warco say that's correct because it's a generic manual. However, I went through the change gear chart and find that I'm 3 change gears short. If my maths is correct, there should be 10 change gears (not 7). I've yet to take this up with Warco..
|Thread: The good bits coming out of the Covid epidemic|
Plus!!! No more football on the radio, or blabbering commentators just about to orgasm.
|Thread: Counterboring tools?|
It's not the "size" of the counterbore, but the (what I consider to be) oversized holes. Yes, if you're making two mating parts in different locations, the extra clearance could be of benefit. But when you have the opportunity to "spot through" to locate the mating holes, quite accurately, the oversized holes can be a nuisance.
Good morning all,
The reason for this post was that many of the commercially available counterbore sets have larger holes than I would like. A point that some of the posts has eluded to.
Many thanks for all the comments and suggestions.
Yes, my poor tryping. I meant 118deg,
Clearly, proprietary (with a pilot) counterbore cutters are the way to go, and flat bottomed drills are an alternative to finishing the base of the pocket. But are they're any disadvantages to using a conventional 180deg. drill to finish the pocket? Other than needing a deeper pocket to get the cap screw head below the surface?
|Thread: Chester lathe as my new lathe anyone|
My Warco WM240 lathe has a damaged bed due to the fixed steady working loose in transit and wearing a hollow. No problem from Warco replacing the machine. The problem is they are "out of stock". Just when I could do with something to occupy the time.
|Thread: Agent million considered essantial travel by N S & I.|
Unless your just pure lucky, the amount you have invested must have some effect. PB's might not be a good financial investment (unless you're lucky), but at least you don't have to keep buying a ticket like the lottery.
|Thread: Mystery Sandvik inserts|
My best guess would be industrial/production broaching inserts.
If it's any help. my WM240 came set-up with 90T, 90T, 80T, 33T & 25T (+ 2x40T fixed) change gears for fine feed. I didn't know the WM240B came with a 3-way gear change.
The original setting is probably the one for "fine feed". Likely shown in the manual, or on a plate on the front of the machine.
|Thread: Box-Ford travelling steady|
Using a dowel and/or piece of paper as suggested is much easier than thread gauges on an internal thread.
Too much tool overhang maybe?
What tooling are you using. HSS or carbide tipped tooling? Positive or negative top rake? I've seen negative top rake cause this before, especially if you have a longish workpiece unsupported by the tailstock. Some refer to it as "springback".
|Thread: New design of mains plug?|
Interesting! More details please.
|Thread: Machine feet/mounts?|
A previous post commented on the yellow mounts and why the high cost? I wondered that too. It does say they're "shockproof". I guess that's the reason.
|Thread: Any ideas please|
Not sure old innertubes are the best bet as they are curved and difficult to get to lay flat. However, as someone else has said, agricultural tubes. You'll get bigger pieces from them. A tube from an 18.4x38 tyre might be a good bet.
|Thread: Machine feet/mounts?|
Does anyone know a good source for machine feet/mounts? I've tried Ebay without much success. Could be I'm using the wrong search criteria.
12mm stud, 500Kg static load, adjustable and fixed.
I need them for my lathe that is going to sit on a rough concrete garage floor. The static load is way higher than required for the weight of the lathe, but seems to be about right for a 12mm stud on some that I've seen.
The stand has 4 mounting points in each cabinet, so I'm guessing I'll need to get 8 to prevent sagging.
|Thread: Spur gears|
I guess that depends on what you want them for. If it's custom made gears, any respectable toolroom should be able to help (or point you in the right direction), but they're not going to be inexpensive.
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