Here is a list of all the postings Bo'sun has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Sheet metal saw.|
Agree, but at present 24tpi is the best I can do.
I'll try that, hoping I can keep the sheet held down sufficiently.
Would need to borrow a jigsaw.
It may come to that. I was just hoping for something a little less frantic.
I need to cut some 0.9mm mild steel sheet. I don't have access to a guillotine and don't fancy using tin snips, especially as I want to keep it flat.
I've borrowed a "Shetack" sheet metal saw that takes a 12" blade. However, anything past half a turn of tension on the wing nut, causes the saw plate to bend.
Is there a secret to tensioning the blade, or do I need a special blade? I'm currently using it with an "Eclipse Plus 30 flexible bi-metallic HSS" 24tpi blade.
|Thread: setting up boring head|
Time to sell the lathe?
|Thread: Dickson tool post|
Had the same on the Warco Dickson style QCTP bought with my WM240.
I fixed it by fixing some thin strips of shim stock (0.30mm if I recall) in the slots of the offending tool holders to increase the tongue (for want of a better word) thickness.
I used an Araldite adhesive for metal. Make sure surfaces are clean and abraded. Not sure how permanent it will be, but all (3 out of 12) still OK after 12 months.
Hope it makes sense?
|Thread: The "Lost art of hardening copper"|
Some years ago, on a trip to Egypt, we were told that Egyptian craftsmen used copper for carving rock ( including granite apparently). It seemed a bit far fetched, but might this have been how they managed it? There seems little information out there about how the ancients were able to manipulate rock, so precisely and so much of it.
|Thread: Consequences of Machining Cast Iron|
Another vote for Oxalic Acid. Used to work in a foundry, and despite how well it was filtered and scrubbed, cast iron dust escaped into the atmosphere and onto peoples cars. At the time, Oxalic Acid (bought in crystal form) was the go to product.
|Thread: Warco wm250v|
Agree with oldvelo. While not the same machine, mine was the WM250, a new potentiometer (fortunately under warranty) fixed the problem.
I was told to turn down the potentiometer before switching off. A bit of a pain every time, but maybe this is a cause of premature wear in the track?
|Thread: Help with surface plates in Derby|
While nothing to do with hydrogen powered vehicles, although I 'm sure the arguments are valid.
I'm not convinced this electric vehicle lark has been thought out properly. Just a couple of examples: My Father lives in a col-de-sac on a green. Is he expected to trail an extension lead across the path and green to charge his car? In 2030 we come home from work at 5 o'clock and plug-in our cars (because we're s**t scared of not having enough charge) and then the lights go out.
|Thread: Warco WM180|
Seems there are some variations with Warco machines. My WM250 stops when the speed control is turned fully ACW. I was informed to stop and start the lathe with the speed control at zero. The motor is brushless.
|Thread: Hit and miss engine|
Have a look at Andrew Whale's You tube channel "Learning Turning Metal". He's built two (just finishing the second) including the Jerry Howell's Farm Boy engine mentioned by Jason.
|Thread: Lifting an SX2P Mill|
It just goes to show that the Egyptians weren't that clever after all. Glad it worked out OK for you.
|Thread: Lathe cover|
Another vote for a dehumidifier. A desiccant type would be my choice rather than a refrigerant type, because they tend to perform better at lower temperatures. A permanent drain if you can, and keep the doors shut or you'll be dehumidifying the world.
|Thread: Hi Everyone, finally introducing myself|
Welcome to the forum Jason,
Spent some time myself at RAF Spadeadam setting fire to things at QuinetiQ Odd place.
|Thread: First model for a complete beginner|
The T. E. Haynes "Hot Air (Stirling) Engine" or "Steam Engine & boiler" might be two engines worth considering. I've made both, and quite achievable with a lathe, a milling slide, a pillar drill and some silver soldering equipment.
While the HAE requires a cast base, I just fabricated it from aluminium plate and a couple of blocks dowelled and screwed together.
The only obstacle might be getting hold of the books. For whatever reason, they tend to be a little pricey.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.