Here is a list of all the postings Bo'sun has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Liquid shim (or similar)|
Aluminium beer cans work well as shims and "work protectors", but don't use the stuff too near the bottom of the can, as it can be slightly thicker due to the manufacturing process (impact extrusion I think). To be sure, get the mic out!
The best bit is, you have to drink more beer.
|Thread: North Yorkshire Logging In|
Welcome to the forum..
I'm building a Hot Air Engine that I first built at secondary school in 1972. It's nearing completion (pending arrival of a replacement lathe), so I'll post some pictures when it's finished.
|Thread: Digital angle gauges|
I think they are OK for woodwork and some basic metal work, but as a metrology instrument I think I'd be looking elsewhere. Like a lot of digital instruments, I've found they need regular re-zeroing to inspire confidence. Like a lot of things, you get what you pay for (generally).
|Thread: Unknown thread|
Concur rear axle cycle thread.
|Thread: What’s best glue for joining wood to PVC pipe?|
I'm no expert, but here goes. Roughen the PVC pipe to get a key, and try some polyurethane glue. A little experimentation would be prudent. As for primer, my guess would be an etch primer. Epoxy will tend to find it's own level to some extent, so I'd be inclined to use a 2 part wood or car body filler, or maybe some form of caulk, depending on the intended purpose.
|Thread: Lollipop maybe?|
Thank you Nicholas,
That just about confirms the vote for a magnifier. As they say, "nature abhors a void", so I've ordered a 2" magnifying glass to fill the void.
Thank you Michael,
I had considered length bars, but unlikely to find a 1.5" one. If I can't find the real thing, I'll try a 2" length bar and shift the zeroing point 0.5" upwards. Better than nothing, and a bit more fiddly, but hey ho. I presume 1.5" is because that's the bottom graduation on the imperial scale.
Thanks again everybody,
Looks like the vote goes to a magnifier. All I've got to do now is find one. While an original magnifier would be nice (if that's what goes in the recess of course), I guess I'll just have to keep my eyes open for a suitable one. It would have to be hand held, as there's nowhere to attach it to the slider.
Along with a magnifier, I'm on the lookout for a 1.5" calibration block. While I can sort of check zero with the cranked scriber set under the arm (1.0" for the scriber + 0.5" for the arm) against the reference surface, it's not ideal. If you're not very careful, you start jacking the base upwards.
I certainly wouldn't discount the idea of a magnifier (a good idea with my eyesight), but why the open end to the slot?
Thanks for all the suggestions. Regarding Robert Butler's suggestion of a test slip, I'm not sure I fully understand. Test slips appear to be 1.5" pillar shaped affairs. I do however, seem to be short of a test slip, unless the cranked scriber is supplied in lieu, enabling calibration straight from the reference surface.
Not sure if it's relevant, but I contacted the seller, and apparently it belonged to a senior Marine Engineer who served in the forces between 1940 & 1950. It also bears what I assume to be an asset number 471-0315/7.
The lower right piece is the clamp for the depth probe.
According to the seller, the box is original, but like yourself I found lots of others in varnished boxes with the accessories as you say.
Yes, I'd considered that, but as you say, the recess isn't deep enough (at least not for a 1.5" gauge block). And the long slot?
It doesn't appear that a gauge block would have been part of the package anyway, as there's nowhere for it to go.
I think it would need a skinny gauge stem to fit in the probe clamp. It only looks to be about 1/8" dia. or so.
Hey Ho, I'm sure we'll get there in the end.
Edited By Bo'sun on 18/06/2020 17:19:59
Oops... Maybe not utilising the probe mount. Nothing else will fit in the clamp.
Mmm.... that sounds more plausible. Possibly utilising the probe mount.
As I said, being as there's no location for a suitable clamp, I'm not convinced the recess is for a dial indicator.
According to the seller, it's the original box, but I can't find anything similar on the web.
The seller just stated that one part was missing. I had considered asking him, but as he's an antiques dealer, I doubt whether he'd know. No disrespect for antiques dealers of course.
Just bought a R&C No.369 Vernier Height Gauge. Anyone know what would have gone in the lollipop shaped hole? I though it may be for a lever type dial gauge, but would need some form of clamp, which there doesn't appear to be a home for, so maybe not.
|Thread: White wheel for bench grinder ?|
Don't forget, a smaller diameter wheel will result in a more concaved profile on your cutting tools.
|Thread: WM180 lathe|
Well, you learn something new every day. I don't have any "un-tanged" tailstock tooling. I'm just careful not to wind back the quill too vigorously. But I have noticed that my revolving centre is fitted with a Button Head Screw, extending it by about 3mm. Seems to work OK, giving pretty much full quill travel on my WM240.
|Thread: Pesky Government Announcement!|
And there was I. thinking you were referring to the resumption of football. No football for me has been the best bit about this awful pandemic. I'll now have to go back to watching paint dry. While not whiling the hours away in the workshop of course.
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