Here is a list of all the postings Bo'sun has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Hermes in action - Lost parcel ?|
You generally get what you pay for, and I'm guessing that Ebay (and other) sellers are getting Hermes shipping at an attractive rate. The trouble is, it's us, the buyers that get the bad deal.
Looks about standard for Hermes.
|Thread: What machine tools are these?|
Another vote for planishing hammer. 8 kids (or thereabouts) and planishing hammers at school made for one hell of a racket. No ear defenders in those days. "What was that you said".
|Thread: Cracked motor mounting plate|
As I understand it, welding Cast Iron requires some experience. Best take it to someone who knows what they're doing.
|Thread: Help with Tilley Lamps|
Thank you Clive, I'll see what I can find locally.
|Thread: Milling machine enclosure|
Have a look at Frank Hoose on You Tube, "mini mill chip enclosure". He also makes a plastic sheet bender to assist construction.
|Thread: Help with Tilley Lamps|
Good morning All,
Many thanks for your comments and suggestions.
It all seemed to go pear shaped when "Esso Blue" became impossible to get locally, so I'm erring towards the fuel. However, as suggested, checking and/or changing the seals, etc will be prudent to start with. I've ordered a couple of seal kits, so I'll update this post in due course.
As I said to Rik, buying standard paraffin (in small quantities anyway) doesn't seem to be an option anymore. Garages don't have it, and the likes of B&Q have put the Ironmonger out of business. I guess, depending on where you are, it's not used a great deal anymore. The Tilley lamp does seem more fickle than the Primus stove.
Easier said than done. Bog standard Paraffin doesn't seem to exist. At least not around here anymore. I've tried greenhouse Paraffin, but that was even worse. Back in the "good old days", Esso Blue and Alladin Pink worked fine.
I have two X246B Tilley Lamps (circa 1980). They have always given good service, but now not so much.
Each one has a new vapouriser tube (not that there looked to be anything wrong with the old ones), a new mantle, and is running on CALDO "Paraffin Extra" (extra low sulphur) Paraffin.
However, they burn with warm rather than bright light, with small flames at the top of the mantle. Despite plenty of pressure they tend to pulsate a little.
Any suggestions and comments appreciated.
If it's for woodturning, it's almost certainly going to be a self centring 4 jaw chuck.
|Thread: How not to use a clamp|
Sounds like petty criticism for the sake of it.
|Thread: Any information greatly appreciated 1|
Another vote for Hot Air/Sterling Engine.
The heat source look quite novel. Be prepared to wait a while for it to warm-up, cool the cold end of the transfer cylinder, experiment with the direction of rotation and give it some lubrication. For what it's worth, my engine (a different model) flywheel rotates anti-clockwise when viewed as in the image.
|Thread: Oil for gearbox|
While it might be tempting to use a higher viscosity gear oil like EP80/EP90, bear in mind there might be some "splash" lubrication involved. As the gearbox will run relatively cool, splash lubrication might not happen with the higher viscosity. I've heard of people using a high viscosity oil in an attempt to reduce noise.
|Thread: Any information greatly appreciated. 2|
Another vote for a comparator stand. For inspection room use rather than production. Production comparators would have the reference surface incorporated into the instrument. The name Sigma seems to ring a bell.
|Thread: Planer Blades|
Sorry to sidetrack a little, but as there seems to be some KITY owners here, any idea if spares are still available? I seem to recall hearing that Sheppach may be involved. Not that I need anything (yet), but it seemed a good idea to ask.
|Thread: Telescopic Bore Gauges|
I'm still looking for some TBG's and found some Kennedy ones marked "KENNEDY ENGLAND". Might that be a little white lie, or even a big fat fib? I may be wrong, but I assumed most of this kit came from the Far East. I guess you can print what you like on stuff (or can you?), but whether it's right or wrong is another matter.
|Thread: removing ball oilers|
I've used screw extractors to good effect. A magnetic pick-up tool can be useful to make sure there isn't any broken spring in the hole. Any brass swarf might be a little more difficult, although tiny spoon ended dental picks can come to the rescue.
|Thread: Surface/ Marking out plates|
Lapping plate for me too.
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