Here is a list of all the postings Bo'sun has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Collet chuck for Chester 920 Lathe|
In response to Howard's comment regarding Amadeal. I had to send two MT4 ER32 collet holders back to Amadeal because the M16 drawbar threads were misaligned (at an angle) with the centreline.
|Thread: Wanted Pictures of Brazing Equipment|
Please see PM.
|Thread: Digital Micrometer|
Good afternoon MC,
As David says. Temperature could well be the culprit. After all, 0.002mm (0.00008" is two tenths of not very much.
I think I'd be happy with that. Certainly for model engineering.
|Thread: Identifying brass?|
Can you compare it with another piece of brass. Cleaned up of course. There are a number different grades of brass which may vary in colour slightly, but it might be a good start. I've not got any, or used any bronze for years, but if memory serves, it has a slightly "coppery" colour compared to brass.
I'm sure there are more definitive ways, but I'd go the simple route to start with.
Another thought. Bronze might be the material of choice for salt water corrosion resistance. Hence being used for a prop shaft.
|Thread: RH vs LH threads|
Corrosion will also add to the force required to remove pedals. Pedals are a sort of "fit & forget" component.
Same reason BB threads are left and right handed.
|Thread: Aldi Scheppach bandsaw|
I think £115 says it all.
|Thread: Milling attachment|
I agree with Oldiron regarding "the biggest problem with a combi unit", or a milling slide for that matter. Yes, milling slides can be made to perform quite satisfactorily within their capacity, but It does get a bit tedious swapping functions. Especially if you've just swapped back, and find one further operation needed to be done.
Warco sell a mounting plate to fix the vertical slide to the lathes cross slide.
The "Myford" style milling slide can be used with some mods to the above mounting plate. This can provide angular adjustment if that's useful.
If considering the "milling attachment" as apposed to the "milling slide", the rear splash guard may not be deep enough to accommodate it. I believe Warco have a suitable replacement splash guard.
|Thread: Model Engineers Handbook|
So who is Lyle Peterson (Tubal Cain)?
|Thread: Silver Soldering Flux?|
Seems like a vote for it being re-cyclable.
I've just completed some Silver Soldering but mixed up too much flux. Rather than throw it away, can it be ground up and used again?
Not trying to save money, but it just seems a waste to bin it.
|Thread: Paillon when Silver Soldering?|
I think I'll try Jason's method next time. The paillons worked fine, if it wasn't for the flux bubbling up and moving them around away from the joint. Once the flux had gone "syrupy" I was able to reposition them and all was well. A bit of a faff none-the-less.
Thanks Jason, that's what I thought. I think if you judge the number of pieces required right, it might save you using too much solder, that you may then have to get rid of.
Simple question (I think).
"Paillons of Silver Solder". What is a paillon and what size is it?
|Thread: Brazing silver steel: any caveats/recommendations?|
I'd go for 1m lengths as Jason suggests. No worries then about alignment and joint strength. Yes, cost may be a consideration, but better safe than sorry in my book.
|Thread: Machining phosphor bronzes|
Will "slow helix" drill bits work better than "standard" drill bits in phosphor bronze?
|Thread: Warco 250WM Lathe - Speed readout problem|
I must admit, the magnets and pick-up do seem a bit vulnerable to contamination. It doesn't look to be the smartest design. Has anybody thought about some sort of cover, maybe using the pick-up bracket, or cable clip screws to secure it. Clearly not possible to get full coverage, and make it easy to remove, but as a famous supermarket says "every little helps".
|Thread: Warco wm 250|
Paul M mentions referring to the operators manual, which in many cases is probably the correct course of action. Unfortunately, I've found the OM supplied with my WM250 to be pretty useless. It's several iterations out of date, has useful info' missing, and I certainly wouldn't rely on the parts list and accompanying diagrams.
|Thread: Avoiding marking / scoring while using fixed steady.|
I'm not sure using rollers is the way to go, because unless you can keep swarf chips away, they will tend to get pressed/rolled into the work, making the problem worse. I've had the same issue with the roller blade guides on my woodworking bandsaw compacting resin onto the blade.
Rather than use shim stock, why not try softer aluminium from drinks cans. Damn, have to drink more beer.
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