Here is a list of all the postings Bo'sun has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Reilang oil can re-design|
Looks like capturing the seal is the answer. Not difficult for Reilang to do considering the cost of oil cans. The rim of the can just looks too thin for the original seal to work as it should. Not surprised it didn't work. Nice solution. Sell them as a retrofit perhaps?
|Thread: Reilang oil cans, fit for purpose?|
I went for the one with the cheaper plastic can. Works OK, although I had to rework the tip to fit the button oilers on my WM250. Should I have gone for the alloy canned version? Time will tell no doubt.
|Thread: What is your favourite "unusual tool that you find useful" ?|
I agree James, especially the stainless steel ones. Just be aware that some are "double butted" with 2mm dia. ends and a thinner, around 1.8mm, centre section. I kept some non-stainless ones years ago and they just went stupidly rusty.
|Thread: Taper due to tailstock height misalignment.|
I'm not sure I understand why vertical misalignment (up or down) should be any different to horizontal misalignment. Off-centre is surely off-centre, irrespective of what plane it's in, or have I missed something obvious.
|Thread: New lathe, what oil?|
As CE6 says, but I would use a straight mineral oil, something like SAE 30 for the gear shafts. Many of those "button oilers" will be for the ways anyway. Way Oil has something in it like the "anti-fling" additive in chainsaw oil. I've always found Way Oli a little too viscous to force it's way into the shafts. Other than that, enjoy your new lathe. Have a look at "Ades Workshop" on You Tube. He uses the WM180 to great effect with some worthwhile modifications.
Edited By Bo'sun on 03/06/2021 17:38:22
|Thread: Anyone intersted?|
The Engine Turned finish was done in a 2D sliding fixture to keep everything nice and uniform. I used maroon Scotchbrite pads glued to a wooden mandrel in my drill press. 16mm dia at 12mm pitch. The hardest bit was not having enough depth on my drill press to complete the last two rows. Turning it around and getting the last two rows realigned was a nightmare. Also, I needed a spare piece of plate along the edges to prevent the Scotchbrite pad from getting torn off on the corners. I finished the plate to size to prevent damaging the surface with any post finishing.
As for the T. E. Haynes books, from what I've seen, you may need a mortgage to buy them from the various on-line sites.
Unfortunately not. Although I do have a milling slide for my WM250. A bit of a pain it the wotsits,. but it does the job, However, when I've shuffled a myriad of stuff around, I plan to acquire a WM14B/16B mill when they're back in stock..............
Really pleased you like my first model Steam Engine. Not the most sophisticated, but I'm chuffed to bits with it. My Dad's over the moon.
|Thread: Rear toolpost for Chester craftsman|
A good idea, but like a lot of Warco's other products, they're out of stock. I think you'll need their cross slide base plate to fit it. Waiting patiently for a replacement WM250.
|Thread: Anyone intersted?|
To be honest I'm not sure, but I'm open to sensible suggestions. I embarked on this model making lark to remake the Hot Air Engine that I made at school in1971/72, so I'm not sure what's around.
I understand that it's perfectly possible to produce some models with just a lathe and a milling slide (which I have with my WM250, and used on both engines). However, my intention is to acquire a bench top mill when I can make space for it. Probably a WM14B/16B when they're back in stock.
This is my first attempt at building a stationary steam engine. It's from plans by T.E.Haynes.
Previously I built his Hot Air Engine.
Big thanks to all you knowledgeable folks that have helped me along the way.
Apologies for the orientation of the video. My photographer wasn't concentrating at the time (the technology is beyond me).
Edited By JasonB on 26/05/2021 18:47:59
|Thread: Thread on front forks on a Raleigh bike|
Hi Rod, Gravel Bikes. Another fad maybe? or just road bike lovers not liking to admit that off-road biking isn't that bad after all.
Unusual, a road bike with boingy forks. Surely that wold lift the front up a bit high for a road bike and change the head angle and steering geometry?
It's not going to go down well with the hardened roadies out there.
The headset is going to have to change anyway, along with the stem, if Mike decides to go down the threadless steerer route. I would also suspect the choice of fork (depending on the quality required) to be somewhat limited, as many are now using tapered steerer tubes.
I'm sure there will be other suppliers of steerer tube dies. This one from "Park Tools" is unlikely to be cheap, but at least they're out there.
It might even be worth seeing if a local bike shop has one you could borrow.
Sheldon Brown. Always a good source of reference.
Good morning Mike,
Before you get too involved, check that your selected plain steerer will accept the quill.
|Thread: ' Smartmeters'|
They're the thin end of the wedge! Or maybe not quite so these days. George Orwell wasn't so far wrong was he?
|Thread: Surface finish for aluminium sheet?|
Sorry, but my phone has buttons on it, and my camera is a 35mm OM4Ti.
Thanks again, it worked out realy well. I used some maroon Scotchbrite, cut with a wad punch and glued to a wooden mandrel.
However, lesson learned. If you're working on a finished piece, and want the pattern right up to the edge, use a sacrificial strip butted up the edge, otherwise the edge will tear up the pad.
|Thread: Easy question for woodwork specialists|
If it has no markings on it, I suspect it wasn't "marine ply". If that's the case, It's at best, likely to be "exterior ply".
Just guessing, but being in storage for a couple of years, might have affected the glue holding the plies together, especially if it got a little damp in that time. The couple days in the rain may just have been the straw that broke the Camels back.
I suspect an unscrupulous building materials supplier might have been to blame.
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