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Member postings for Diy Addict

Here is a list of all the postings Diy Addict has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Precision ground flat stones in UK?
28/02/2022 12:35:16
Posted by Pete Rimmer on 28/02/2022 12:11:37:

I make them from time to time. Takes a few minutes to grind a normal stone flat on a surface grinder I don't know why they should cost so much extra. I saw some report of high cost due to the wear rate o the CBN wheel but I've gorund perhaps 12 or more and my wheel is still going strong. For sure it does wear the wheel because you can see the material in the grinding dust on the guard but it hasn't been as drastic as folk were making out.

Pete, have pm'd you.

28/02/2022 12:32:23
Posted by Simon Williams 3 on 28/02/2022 11:26:17:

Not only do the stones have to be flat, but also blunt so they DON'T cut the bed being stoned. They only cut the projections, elsewhere there isn't enough down pressure to get the stone to cut the wider area of the bed.

Yes, that's how I understood it. That's why I'm hesitant to get a pair of new stones - presumably they've been ground with a wheel of similar grit. But to properly flatten and smooth the peaks you'd need a much finer wheel.

28/02/2022 10:36:03

I've heard a lot about precision-ground flat stones for removing dings and raised scratches on finely ground flat surfaces without damaging them. But no-one seems to sell them in the UK. I know I could order from the US, but it's a minefield for extra handling & customs charges and delays.

If I've understood correctly, anyone with a decent surface grinder and a fine diamond wheel could make them, but I don't have access to one.

Has anyone tried this approach? If not how do you get around this problem?

Would anyone who has the requisite machinery be prepared to make and sell some? I think there could be quite a few interested buyers.

Thread: Emco FB2 clone - how far can you push it?
14/09/2021 14:46:16

I just acquired a used Axminster VHM mill, which is a Taiwanese clone of the Emco FB2. It's a very capable machine for its size - so much so, I'm afraid of wearing it out or breaking it by using too deep cuts etc.

I've been using Sandvik 12mm solid carbide end mills quite a bit for making steel hold-down clamps, tee nuts etc. A speeds & feeds calculator gives a speed of 2500 rpm, so I've been using it at 2000 rpm with reasonable but not great results (I use morse taper collets for toolholding).

So far I haven't risked a cut deeper than 1mm. The motor gets quite hot and I'm also worried about stripping the tufnol gear. So my question is to owners of the FB2 and its clones - how far can you push it milling mild steel without risking damage? What depth of cut would it cope with, for a 12mm (1/2" ) solid carbide cutter, and other sizes? What about DOC for side-milling?

Thanks in advance, Paul

Thread: 5C collet chuck with integral DI-3 backplate,anyone bought one?
09/08/2021 18:38:17

I know I'm late to the party, but having read this thread, I eventually ordered the Warco 5c chuck with built-in D1-3, with the intention of adding a back plate if runout was bad. Well the one I recieved had a runout of more than 0.002" on the inside tapered part of the chuck - much higher than I'd hoped.

I tried a couple of positions and made sure all the mating surfaces were spotless, but just couldn't get lower than 2 thou.

I thought about returning it but I can't resist a tinker, so took it apart. The front separates from the back at the hole for the chuck key.

The rear part has an alignment ring ground into it. So it was an easy job to mount it directly on the lathe and turn the ring down slightly:


I took 0.005" off it, to give a bit of wiggle room for future adjustment. During this process, I found that the inner ring with the through bore was out of true by a lot more than 2 thou - nearer 20 thou - so I turned that to be true to help balance the chuck.

Stuck it back together and a bit of judicious use of the rubber mallet, and now the runout is down to a couple of tenths. I'm thinking of putting some threaded holes in the front part and some grub screws to make the runout adjustable with a hex key. There's not a lot of room for error though, as the alignment ring doesn't project that much.

I haven't yet measured the runout with a collet installed, so I'm not sure how good it will be a couple of inches from the chuck.

If I could justify the expense of a Bison, I'd definitely go down that route, but the Warco one now suits my needs, and at least it's possible to fettle it.

Thread: Dividing head for lathe - Myford vs BS0/1?
30/04/2021 18:43:26

Well here's the solution I finally came up with - a Coronet Minor Headstock!


Bought on a whim from you-know-where for £26, it could have been made for this job! The only mods needed were three holes for registration pins and mounting to the cross slide; a couple of collars, and a simple sprung indexing pin. Of course, you have to already have a gear with the required tooth count. It's shown here with an 89 tooth DP 16 gear blank in Tufnol.

The headstock has an external thread which a 3/4" pipe fitting bolt fits, and an internal thread, which I've yet to measure. Here's a view from above, showing the mounting holes and indexing pin:


I had to swivel the vertical mill attachment so the reference gear doesn't hit the column. I haven't dared try any cutting yet. There aren't really enough threads on the external front thread to be confident of good clamping, so I'll make some sort of front clamp using the internal thread before I try it out. The indexing pin is also 'blind' - hidden behind the casting, so there's plenty of scope for a mark 2 if the concept works.

Let me know if I'm about to cause a big accident.

All the best, Paul

Thread: Myford 254 Plus toolpost type
24/04/2021 02:22:15

There's an original 254 saddle stop on eBay at the moment. At and eye-watering price, but might give you an idea how to make one.

23/04/2021 21:45:06

I'm finding myself increasingly jealous of your lathe.

22/04/2021 09:11:54

Another vote for the Pewetools AS Multifix clone from me. I bought my 254s after viewing several knackered Bantams and have been delighted with it. Pewetools will also advise on the right size toolholders and they do a good variety to suit the 254. I think the ASD1460 is the standard holder that most suits.

My 254 came with a rear toolpost but since buying the Multifix I hardly ever use it - I prefer keeping the cross slide space free for other operations as I don't have a separate mill.

THe AS will go straight on the existing post, but you will have to modify or make a simple collar. The only downside is that Pewetools are the sole suppliers of AS size, so if anything happens to them you won't be able to get any more holders.

Thread: Dividing head for lathe - Myford vs BS0/1?
06/03/2021 21:28:45

You've understood perfectly Rod. I waited around a year for a Myford/Rishton head to turn up, then this Mentor popped up so I jumped on it. So my setup is virtually identical, though somehow the photo looks much more appealing.

The 100 tooth is something of an aspiration. I'm looking to cut 56 teeth at 16DP in the short term.

Also, I'm not set on any particular method, so I've found this thread particularly useful - thanks to all.

Once the mill is bolted to the lathe, I'll try various configurations and post sny results here.

All the best, Paul

05/03/2021 18:30:31

Yes it's 4 3/4" above the bed. I think the centre height to cross slide is 83mm, which rules out an HV4/6 if the cutter is in the headstock, though I think the old type Myford dividing head attached to a vertical slide would be able to manage it, using the methods outlined by GH Thomas.

Also, if the Mentor milling column can handle the size of gears I want to cut, then it looks like I have a lot more choice. It's arriving next week, so I guess I need to install it and make a few test cuts before deciding.

05/03/2021 16:09:06

It probably would have helped if I'd said what size gears I want to cut. The first job will be some 16DP sacrificial gears in tufnol - up to 100 tooth, but I'd like to have the option of cutting them in steel or cast iron in the future. I realise that's going to push my setup to the limit, and will need a lot of fine passes.

05/03/2021 10:46:44

Thank you all - I can now stop scratching my head about the BS type heads. I think the Myford one is the way to go as I don't have the time (or skill, probably) to build one from a kit.

There's one up at the moment, but the Morse Taper looks heavily scored. I have an MT2 reamer, but I think it would need to go too deep to get the scores out.

05/03/2021 09:12:59

I have a Myford 254s lathe - centre height 4 3/4" , and I'm looking at buying a dividing head to cut spur gears. Could anyone give me the various pros and cons of the Myford dividing head versus the BS0/BS1 types available from the usual suppliers?

They seem to be very different designs. The Myford ones seem designed for lathe use but are expensive and seem flimsy, whereas the BS0/1 look good value, sturdy and versatile, but perhaps I don't have enough height from the cross slide table to get effective use from them.

The lathe will soon have an emco mentor milling attachment bolted to the bed (I don't have the room for a separate mill), but I'm not sure whether it has the rigidity necessary to mill the gears, and I may end up using the headstock instead.

Lots of variables here I know, but the knowing the pros/cons of Myford vs BS0/1 type would be a good start

Thread: Myford 254 faceplate options
25/08/2020 20:42:37

Clive, Reg, thank you - I love these innovative solutions. I think I may try them all, in order of difficulty.


Edited By Diy Addict on 25/08/2020 20:44:09

25/08/2020 08:07:10

Gordon that's really useful, thank you. The new Myford doesn't stock the studs (or the faceplate) so I'd already ordered some M10 x 1 part threaded bolts to adapt. It's great to have the original dimensions here.


24/08/2020 17:59:55

What would you advise on face plate size, assuming availability? 10" would only leave a gnat's clearance, whereas I suppose 9" would have larger clearance but potentially cause more damage if something fleshy got caught between it and the bed?

24/08/2020 10:06:40

Thanks old Mart (and Duncan for the +1). Looks like a good solution and I'll give it a try.

Edited By Diy Addict on 24/08/2020 10:07:04

24/08/2020 10:04:09

I think Duncan must have a 254+. I've just measured the swing on my 254s and it's exactly 5".

23/08/2020 17:50:32

After spending a few months viewing knackered Bantams and waiting for Warco to restock, I finally bit the bullet and am now the proud owner of a Myford 254s lathe!

The spindle accepts a BS4442/A3 backplate, which is basically a D1-3 mount with threaded studs instead of camlocks. I have a D1-3 backplate from Warco, which I intend to make a catchplate from, but I also want a faceplate and am pondering my options. Myford/Rdg don't stock them any more.

Bantam faceplates turn up from time to time on a famous auction site, but they are 270mm, so too big for my 254mm capacity. If I could find a flat faceplate, I could mount it to a backplate. The other option I'm considering is making some adapter to make my spindle accept S7 chucks, as it looks like BS4442/A3 has gone the way of the dodo.

So I'd be grateful for any ideas!

Edited By Diy Addict on 23/08/2020 17:50:58

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