Here is a list of all the postings Gavlar has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Stuck Morse Taper in Warco Major 3024YZ|
I had the exact same problem with a 3-2MT reducer stuck in the quill of a Chester 626 mill. There is a thread on here somewhere but to summerise, I couldn't knock it out from above as there was no shoulder, it wasn't threaded so I couldn't use the drawbar. I couldn't vibrate or twist it out. Gentle heat had no effect and I used a can of freeze spray which also had no effect.
I ended up removing the quill and taking it to a small local engineering company. They tig welded the protruding part of the reducer to facilitate knocking it out from above. Whilst still warm from the welding it came out with a gentle tap.
The mill has been in use ever since and has not suffered any ill effects.
|Thread: Hermes and couriers|
Evri does use paypal.
I've used them twice in the last fortnight, paid for 'next (working) day' delivery and one one of the parcls was deivered on a Sunday, so better than next day.
No idea what your particular machines are worth but research on sold items on ebay might put you in the ball park.
A photo isn't enough to price anything up. Price is effected massively by condition (both your lathe and mill appear in good condition) and accesories. Price is also effected by accessability, location, ease of loading (do you have a forklift or other means to load onto a truck or traier). Willingness and ability to palletise for delivery will also bump the price up. If access and removal are complicated, you may have to settle for dealer prices which could be a fraction of their true value.
|Thread: Old pinnacle pdm 20 mill drill|
I think the PDM 20 has been sold under various guises over the years by Naerok, Alpine, Axminster, Clarke, Warco and others.
I think (though you would need to confirm) Axminster sold it as the ZX25, manual and parts list here:
(If that doesn't work, just search Axminster ZX25)
Axminster have been very helpfull to me in the past when trying to source parts for older machines, there was a long lead time and parts were not cheap though!
A search for 'Step Pulley' may come up with something suitable for the spindle drive.
|Thread: Oil can (again)|
I've got two reilangs. I bought them because everything else forced itself apart under the hydraulic pressure they encountered when used on the numerouse ball oilers dotted around my machines. They haven't forced themselves apart, which is something but they leak as much as the next can and the pumps constantly jam, needing to be jiggled about (I think that is the correct technical term) to get them to function. Not worth the money I paid for them, in my humble opinion.
|Thread: Boxford newbie|
63/80 is the one. Chap on ebay (no connection) sells them in delrin.
You may need to check that before splashing out on a compound gear. If I recall correctly, there is insufficient room for the 127/100 gear in a VSL and it instead uses 64/50 (or something similar) to get a close approximation.
I haven't owned a VSL for some years so appologies if I'm getting confused with something else.
|Thread: Engineering tuition recommendations|
I read a recommendation (I can't remember where) for this chap;
He has uploaded 100+ video tutorials, aimed at the beginner.
I cannot personnaly recommend him, at least not yet. I've only watched the first few videos on shop safety but it might be a useful resource.
|Thread: Manual for Warco GH750 or Chester Cub 630|
sorry for the slow response, I've not been on the forum for a few days. Message me your email and I'll forward the manual.
|Thread: I want chips|
I could carry on using the carbide for rough cuts, it's just that the TT seemed to move more material with less effort and a better finish than anything else I've tried.
I'll experiment with grooves in the tool over the next couple of days.
I've had my lathe several years now, I am untrained, reletively inexperienced and have no real idea about sharpening HSS. As such, I've been using indexable tooling with varying results.
A recent thread here prompted me to order the Eccentric Engineering 'Diamond' tangential tool, which appealed to me because of the apparent ease of sharpening.
Having set the tool up, and turning a test piece of free cutting steel at various speeds, feeds and depths of cut I'm getting excellent results. I'm pleasently surprised by how much metal I can remove in one pass and the excellent quality of the finish.
Problem is, I'm getting ribbons instead of chips regardless of what I change, Clearly not ideal as I'm having to frequently stop and clear the birdsnest that's formed.
I do use cutting fluid but flow cooling, whilst possible, is not really practicle.
The cutting tool is ground flat as shown in EE's video so is it a matter of changing the profile of the tool or do I need to do something else?
|Thread: Anyone with a Chester 626 mill can help me with a little problem?|
Hi Steven, the problem was solved 15 months ago!!
I ended up removing the whole quill assembly and taking it to a local welder. (I don't weld) He filled the end of the reducer with weld to facilitate knocking it out with a rod down the quill. He gave it a tap whilst it was still hot and it popped out. No damage and no ill effects.
|Thread: Here's an interesting one|
Facebook marketplace is awash with scams and scammers. I've given up reporting them, there are just too many. It's about time companies like Facebook were held to account, it's their platform, they know it goes on and yet they seem to do nothing about it.
|Thread: Boxford X10|
Boxfords prices for spares are usually out of date, Parts are frequently no longer stocked even if the site suggests they are available, they are plus vat and plus P&P.
That being said, they have helped me out in the past, even once sending me small low value items FOC!
Yes, they are D1-3.
|Thread: Harrison 250|
If you search ebay for 'pallet truck wheels' it will come up with wheels very similar with solid tyres and reletively high load ratiings at a reasonable price.
I bought a pair just for this very purpose, to make a dolly for moving a heavy lathe single handed.
|Thread: 3 phase supply (again)|
If it's a digital version of the older style rotary converters, then you won't need one for each machine so long as the total power consumption of the machines running at any one time are within the limits of the converter.
The advantages would appear to be no messing about or rewiring of your three phase machinery, only needing to buy one for your entire workshop.
The dissadavantage as I see it would be price and not being able to customise control for individual machines as you could if each had it's own VFD.
|Thread: Boxford x10 lathes|
There is no definitive answer to that question.
In my limited experience, price depends on age, condition, ancilliary equipment, your ability (or not) to collect and luck.
The one I mentioned in your previous thread sold today on ebay for £1900, which was a steal. I have seen them on ebay for even less though one dealer on there is currently asking over £6K for one. I think if you are prepared to wait for the right one, prepared to travel and have the wherewithall to collect yourself, you could get change from £2K. If you can't collect or arrange collection yourself, you will tend to be at the mercy of the dealers and the price will likely be higher.
|Thread: Highway Code|
Local roads are paid for with local taxes, your community charge. Cyclists pay community charge but do next to no damage to the roads. So surely, I'm 'doing my bit' by cycling and I should recieve a tax rebate, funded by higher car taxes??
|Thread: Boxford x10 lathes|
The measurements for the 280
Actual footprint is 1150 x 460
Overall length is 1200 and overall depth from the to rear of the splashback is 800
Height to the top of the headstock is 1200
There are a couple of different base styles across the range which might effect the measurements and. I think (but don't quote me) the 280 is the same length as the 10-20 and 11-20 with the 10-30 and 11-30 being 10 inches longer.
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