Here is a list of all the postings Gavlar has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Hole in tool post|
It's for a pin that locates in the compound slide, presumably to prevent the toolpost moving under load.
|Thread: Manual for Warco GH750 or Chester Cub 630|
Message me with your email and I will forward the manual John sent to me.
|Thread: Pinnacle PDM-20|
I had one of these years ago. I no longer have it but I think you will find it near identical to Nearok, Draper, Alpine, Axminster and others. Possibly the most common of the clones and therefore most likely to be able to find a manual, would be the Warco Minor. There might be subtle differences but not enough to be of any consequence.
Probably sold in the US by Grizzly who's manuals are free to download online and tend to be better than UK, IF you can work out their model number.
Edited By Gavlar on 05/09/2021 12:22:36
|Thread: Urgent - opinions of lathe I am going to view/buy|
T is the basic, training model with no power feed or screw cutting ability but in my experience, most school Boxfords are As, Bs and Cs.
|Thread: boxford lathe upgrade?|
All the parts are interchangable. MK1 and MK11 Boxfords are 4.5" and the MK111 is 5". It doesn't matter if it is an A, B, or C model. The gearbox is pretty much the same from the earliest rear drive models up to the last of the underdrive models and will be interchangable, regardless of centre height or age.
The 5" models have a slightly taller headstock, thicker base to the tail stock and a slightly meatier compound to make up the extra height. Other than that, no real differences.
The B and C models even have holes drilled in the bed to mount the gearbox without modification.
To upgrade a C to an A you would need the gearbox, leadscrew (you may be able to modify the original leadscrew) and apron. I think the saddle is the same but I'm not sure as the C didn't have power cross feed. It might just need an the cross slide leadscrew swapped over.
Edited By Gavlar on 21/08/2021 23:38:06
|Thread: Boxford STS 10-30 lathe manual?|
Google 'Boxford lathe user group'
You may need to join but the manual is available to download free of charge. I took a while to find it as the site is not easy to navigate but it is under 'Files', then 'Moreporks Nest'.
|Thread: Boxford BUD Tool Post|
That is a MK 11, not a MK 111, not that it makes much difference, and that appears to be the compound from a 5" lathe. Given the bed is from a MK 111, perhaps someone made this up from spare parts. Most of the the parts from the entire 3565 range are interchangable.
The compound from the 5" just has a bit more meat on the underside, otherwise it's the same.
Still struggeling to add a photo to the post so I've created an album showing 4'5" compound.
The correct Dicksons toolpost for both the 4.5" and 5" lathe is the 51mm high one.
Compounds come up on ebay all the time. Any will fit, just get the correct height one. Some of the dealers push their luck and ask silly money but one will come up at reasonable cost if you wait.
|Thread: Lever collet closer problem|
I was expecting too much movement in the collet. I assumed the lever would take the collet through it's full range, which with Burnerd collets is around 120 thou. The lever only closes the collet the last few thou so I couldn't see it. Simply placing the workpiece in the collet, tightening it by hand then backing of a half turn, allowed the lever to do the rest.
Cracked it, user error as I suspected.
I've have a lever collet closer and collets that I will never use. (I have ER collets and holders for everything!)
I thought I'd check it out before passing it on so mounted it on my AUD.
Everything looks ok and moves freely but the collet doesn't close and I can't work out why. The fulcrum is anchored and the lever moves freely but I can't see what it's supposed to move to close the collet.
I strongly suspect user error!!
I've uploaded an album with photos.
Thanks for any advice, Gavin.
Edited By Gavlar on 26/07/2021 07:55:16
|Thread: Model Engineer's Auction|
Says in the Ts&Cs VAT is payable on the hammer price AND on the Buyers premium, which itself is not cheap. The price you pay will be around +40% of hammer price. And some people complain about ebay's charges.....
quick edit. Correct answer uploaded as I was typing. Ignore my offerings.
Edited By Gavlar on 02/07/2021 09:24:38
|Thread: Lack of material and prices|
No good blaming border controls. That's what we voted for. If you want no border controls, then lobby your MP to re-enter the EU.
There is currently the perfect storm, Brexit border controls, Covid, possibly still the backlog from canal being blocked and from what I've read, the shortage of containers. A lot of our cheap labour, including vast numbers of HGV drivers, has gone back home to the east of Europe as well which won't help.
|Thread: Harrison M250|
There is a harrison lathe user group
I don't use it but do use the Boxford version and whilst you may need to wait a while for a responce, usually someone with specialist knowledge will come along and help in due course. If there is a source for spares, I suspect someone there will be able to tell you where to find it.
|Thread: Colchester Student Mk2 lathe general questions|
There is a Colchester Lathe User Group here;
II've not used it but do use the Boxford equivelent. It can take a while to get used to the format and is quite slow moving (If the Boxford one is anything to go by) probably becuase the content is very niche but for the same reason, because it is so niche, most technical questions do ultimately get answered. The Boxford group has all the manuals to download (if you can find them!) and I suspect the Colchester one may have the same.
|Thread: Griptru chucks|
Thank you all.
Just a quick question on Pratt Burnerd Griptru chucks, or the equivalent
Are they worth the expence if you already have decent three jaw, four jaw and collet chucks?
Having three ajustment screws, are they any more difficult to accurately centre than a four jaw with it's two pairs of opposing ajustment screws?
Thanks in advance
|Thread: Boxford max useable Chuck size|
A 125mm three jaw with external jaws will easily take an 80mm workpiece, the jaws won't even overhang the chuck body.
Assuming you have the 4.5" Boxford, I personally wouldn't buy a chuck any larger than 160mm though it could take a little larger. (A 160mm chuck has about 50mm clearence between the body and the ways)
Chronos have a Soba four jaw self centering chuck on their website which comes with internal and external jaws and is already fitted with a Boxford backplate so hopefully no machining needed. I've no experience of this chuck but I've no complaints of Soba equipment I have owned in the past.
I've not checked but I think other suppliers aslo stock Boxford specific chucks.
|Thread: Boxford AUD head refurbish|
You could try Mark Lord at simplylathes.co.uk
He specialises in Boxfords and can certainly supply most spares. I think he also does repairs and refurbs.
Failing that, Google 'boxford user group' and join that forum. Someone there will know where to get it done or instruct you on how to DIY.
|Thread: Boxford STS Screwcutting Clutch|
Ah, that makes sense. I wasn't thinking along those lines at all. Now I want one!
I'm gong to ask what may be a stupid question, but what is a screwcutting clutch for? I understand how usefull a clutch might be when surfacing but I thought when screw cutting the leadscrew and spindle mesh should be fixed with no possibility of any slip.
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