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Member postings for Gavlar

Here is a list of all the postings Gavlar has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Harrison L5 Apron/carriage adjust
22/10/2020 09:22:11

Are you sure there is no way to adjust?

I'll admit I've not worked on Harrisons but the lathes I have worked on have three bolts to lock the plate and three grub screws to adjust it. The grub screws hold the plate off the underside of the carraige. The grub screw might not sit proud so may not be obvious.

Edited By Gavlar on 22/10/2020 09:22:54

Thread: Boxford 280 spindle nose runout
23/09/2020 18:48:48

Just an update;

I did try and work around the bent spindle but whilst decent work is possible, it wasn't easy and was nigh on impossible to repeat an action if the chuck was removed or the work removed from the chuck. On top of this, the low rumble at low speed, which I origonaly thought was normal and the slow oil lead from the head stock via the spindle bearings, was all starting to annoy me.

A new spindle was way to expensive, even if Boxford could still supply them.

A couple of days ago a Boxford 10-20 came up on ebay only an hours drive from me. The 10-20 is pretty much exactly the same as the 280 but with 1/2" less swing. The seller had removed all the wiring in anticipation of fitting a VFD and had broken it down into all it's sub assemblies then left it to gather dust at the back of his garage.. It was sold with a good few desirable and expensive extras that I didn't already have such as a full set of changegears, brand new 4 jaw, steadies etc. Long story short, I picked it up yesterday and today swapped the headstock, top slide riser and tailstock onto my machine

What a difference!! No rumble at low speed, no oil leak and no decernable runout..

The moral is; Dont let your heart rule your head when you are buying second hand lathes!

What's left is a complete yet unslable lathe so if you know of anyone that needs any X10 parts........

22/06/2020 17:51:06

Thank you. I shall machine the back plate.

22/06/2020 11:49:59

I have a Boxford 280 lathe. I have recently been tuning out all the play and trying to adjust everything to optimum.

I recently acquired a nice Burnard collet chuck but when I fitted I had around 6 thou run out at the work piece.

I removed the chuck from the back plate and checked the register and still had run out.

I then removed the back plate from the spindle and checked the spindle itself.

I have about 2 thou run out on the face of the spindle (first picture) but none the inside edge of the spindle (second picture) which tells me the spindle is not bent.

I have created an album with pictures of what I am trying to describe.

Now I could machine the face square, but if that is the correct thing to do then I would have expected this to have already been done sometime in the 30+ years since this left the factory.

The nose and spindle appear not to be one piece but I can see no way of removal or adjustment bar total removal of the spindle itself which I am keen to avoid.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

 

Edited By Gavlar on 22/06/2020 11:51:36

Edited By Gavlar on 22/06/2020 11:59:13

Thread: Boxford needs new motor.
04/06/2020 11:39:34

I've replaced the motor several Boxfords over recent years. I think you may find it a struggle to get the motors you've linked to, to physically fit, due to the big box containing the capacitors on the side of the motor. You may also need to modify the mount on the motor and/or the lathe itself. If you can source a B56 frame foot mount motor (ideally resilient mount) it will drop straight in without modification.

Edited By Gavlar on 04/06/2020 11:41:22

Thread: Toothe broke on lathe chuck
25/05/2020 06:35:10
Posted by Jeremy Smith 2 on 25/05/2020 03:16:51:
Posted by Gavlar on 24/05/2020 09:12:05:

I have a drawer full of assorted Burnerd chuck jaws. I got them as part of a job lot and they don't fit anything I currently own. If your chuck is a Burnerd and you send me precise dimensions of your broken jaw, I can't promise to have the right ones but I'll have a sift through to see if I have a suitable set.

Which dimensions will you need from me? I would really appreciate this.

I'll message you

24/05/2020 09:12:05

I have a drawer full of assorted Burnerd chuck jaws. I got them as part of a job lot and they don't fit anything I currently own. If your chuck is a Burnerd and you send me precise dimensions of your broken jaw, I can't promise to have the right ones but I'll have a sift through to see if I have a suitable set.

Thread: Source for wiper felt
24/05/2020 06:50:31

Boxford list the wiper felts and holders for the 3565 series on their spares site.

I think it is about £20 for a complete set but when I went to order some a few months ago, chap on the end of the line sounded a bit exasperated at the admin involved for such a small order and said he would stick some in the post, which he did, with no charge.

I can't promise the same excellent service for anyone else, he may have just been in a good mood. I can't even promise that they still have them as their stock of spares for the 3565 range gets depleted. I have bought other, far more expensive parts from them in the past which may or may not have had some bearing, but in any case, it's got to be worth a phone call.

Thread: Mill recomendations ?
20/05/2020 06:41:54

I think the chines mill in the classifieds is long gone. The ad is dated January and I emailed the seller months ago and got no reply.

Thread: Inverter failure guidance
08/05/2020 21:42:50

Looks like your motor is rated 1380 rpm at 50Hz. The motor is designed for 50hz. Pushing it to100hz will mean it runs at double it's design speed. Who knows how long it will last?

A lot of dual voltage motors are 50 or 60Hz so they can be used in the US and the UK, so pushing them to 60 or 65 hz won't do any harm, but personally I wouldn't run them much higher.

Edited By Gavlar on 08/05/2020 21:53:56

Thread: Replacement hand wheel for mill
03/05/2020 08:24:45

I had a tatty Clark CMD1225 round column mill that used these hand wheels with the three protrusions. The same mill is sold with many manufacturers badge on it, Warco, Draper, Nutool, Pinnacle to name but a few.

Axminster also sell it, I think their model is the ZX30M

I replaced two of the handles on mine prior to selling it on with parts from Axminster, though they are not particularly cheap, about £15 each IIRC and Axminster quoted a 20 week lead time! In fact they were a little quicker but not much. I ordered them just before Christmas 2019 and they arrived this March

Prior to ordering from Axminster, I searched the net for spares for every manufacturer I could find without luck.

Thread: inland seagulls
29/04/2020 23:08:10
Posted by Mike Poole on 29/04/2020 16:17:46:

It’s funny they are protected when pigeons are not.

Oh yes they are!

All wild birds are protected. Wood pigeon and collard doves can be controlled under the (recently changed to be much stricter) terms of the general licence.

Thread: M-DRO MDC 700L set up
19/04/2020 14:55:44

Just a quick public thanks to Chris who, as well as the advice above, has sent me a scanned copy of the manual this morning

19/04/2020 07:45:39

Thanks Chris, that worked a treat!. I don't think I'd have found that by trail and error in a month of Sundays, though I've no idea how I managed to reverse the settings in the first place!

I have messaged you with my email.

Edited By Gavin Freeman 1 on 19/04/2020 08:03:48

Thread: Boxford Tailstock Accessories
15/04/2020 13:31:28

The paint isn't so dear when you consider 1/2 litre will do a whole machine and doesn't need undercoat or primer. You can prime it but it's not essential. Just thin it slightly, roll it on with a small sponge roller then run a clean brush over it to remove the stippling effect.

You will be disappointed with the colour match if you use 'smoke grey' see my post above.

Also, if you intend to take the cast components like the bed, headstock and tailstock back to bare metal, when they were manufactured the finish quality of the castings was never that good, they are full of filler and will need to be re-filled to get a nice result. The sheet metal parts like the base and belt cover can just be sanded back to bare metal and painted.

 

Edited By Gavin Freeman 1 on 15/04/2020 13:35:24

15/04/2020 11:53:43

In my experience, Boxford 'Smoke grey' comes out almost light blue. It is a similar colour to the blue/grey Boxfords and may have been correct when the machines were new 50 odd years ago but it won't match now. It is the same with enamels from both Paragon and Craftsmaster.

To match the blue/grey colour of the older Boxfords I mixed Boxford smoke grey with black around 60/40 by volume and got it near perfect.

The enamels in brown, olive grey or green of the later machines match perfectly.

Thread: M-DRO MDC 700L set up
10/04/2020 10:30:03

I have a stupid question about the DRO on my lathe. It's likely to be basic set up but I don't have the instructions!

It is a M-DRO MDC700L

I'm re-fitting the X axis components but this time doing it properly so that the bracket holding the X axis sensor doesn't interfere with other moving parts.

I think I worked out how to do it without drilling anymore holes, then mocked it up prior to machining a new bracket but the readout is in reverse, that is, as cross slide moves towards the work piece, the readout on the DRO goes up rather than down.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks, Gavin.

Thread: AT1 inverter 3 wire control
28/02/2020 18:08:25

Program the parameters as follows;

P11 to 2 (tells the VFD on/off will be via an external switch)

P53 to 5 ( X4 Wire forward)

P54 to 6 ( X5 wire reverse)

Those settings will give you three wire on, forward and reverse via external switches.

Connect com to X4 for forward, or com to X5 for reverse.

In its simplest form, you could do that with a single, three position switch to give forward / off / reverse.

You will still need to program the VFD for all the other parameters, ramp up and down times, max speed, min speed etc but for most of those the supplied instructions are easier to work out.

 

 

 

 

Edited By Gavin Freeman 1 on 28/02/2020 18:12:16

Edited By Gavin Freeman 1 on 28/02/2020 18:17:25

Thread: Switches
18/02/2020 14:43:30

As a rule, you can use high voltage switches for low voltage applications but not the other way round!

I've made VFD control panels with these or similar;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/22mm-NO-NC-Momentary-Panel-Mount-DPST-Control-Push-Button-Switch-AC-220V-LED/173833190213?hash=item287943fb45:m:mhMdQStVId-IXE6UujeCezw

Checking the ones I have, they are rated at 440v but are only switching 12v

A simple three pin toggle switch is required for forward and reverse.

Depending on what VFD you use and how it is programmed, you may want to include a relay in the start circuit so as to act as a NVR switch

Thread: Cleaning an old lathe
13/02/2020 19:02:52

I bought it direct from the school and I can only assume they had it from new. It's the third time I've bought machinery from a school (different schools, different LEAs) and they are always quality machinery, poorly maintained in my experience.

I've got white spirits and brake fluid in the workshop, I'll go and apply some in a minute and leave it overnight. If that fails, I'll try the heat gun and/or oven cleaner tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice.

Edited By Gavin Freeman 1 on 13/02/2020 19:04:46

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