By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Herman van der Merwe

Here is a list of all the postings Herman van der Merwe has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start
13/01/2021 09:14:31

@Richard you have lost some images on page 1 ...

30/12/2020 12:28:21
Posted by roy entwistle on 30/12/2020 09:57:37:

It can oxidize quite quickly especially in the absence of oxygen. ?

Roy cheeky

Sorry, the correct word would be "corrode" in the absence of oxygen. Oxygen is the only thing protecting alu. Take it away and you have many problems. Richard, if I remember lives next to the coast so he most probably is seeing inter-granular corrosion.

30/12/2020 07:16:00
Posted by Richard Kirkman 1 on 29/12/2020 11:56:48:
Posted by Herman van der Merwe on 29/12/2020 05:38:09:

Me thinks those are oxidized aluminium. Was the raw stock stored in a sealed container of sorts?

It was just some 20mm diameter. I didn't think oxidization would have penetrated that deep? That was immediately after a cut of around 1mm from the diameter. The raw stock is just kept on a shelf in the garage. I've not seen it on the other aluminium I've been turning. But I don't know what type this aluminium is, I was given it when I went to Scarborough.

At what depth do these disappear? It can oxidize quite quickly especially in the absence of oxygen.

29/12/2020 05:38:09

Me thinks those are oxidized aluminium. Was the raw stock stored in a sealed container of sorts?

23/12/2020 05:45:32

Mat, the tension should be the same as per this message.,,,20,0,0,0::relevance,,spindle+tension,20,2,0,59019379




Let us know which one is correct!

Edited By Herman van der Merwe on 23/12/2020 05:52:17

21/12/2020 05:39:29

Guys, guys, you need to remember that this is an English design. As you well know any English designed mechanical system is designed to leak oil to show you that there is still oil in the machine. Ask any Land Rover owner ...

10/09/2020 08:52:58

Good job Richard, now you can leave in peace (vs pieces).

Safe travels and have fun at the Uni.

Phil needs some gardening done me thinks ...

09/09/2020 22:02:27
Posted by Phil Whitley on 09/09/2020 20:21:37:

Your balls look to be sticking to far outwink If you have only put two balls in and then the spring, the spring may have been forced betwen the balls, hence they wont push back into the shaft as they should!

Edited By Phil Whitley on 09/09/2020 20:26:30

Yes, this is my first impression as well!

25/08/2020 11:32:49

Aha Phil, so the Memlite I was given is the time correct lamp for the Student Mk1 I have. Good to know!

24/08/2020 20:38:17

Thanks Richard. I think Phil said your lamp is the genuine Colchester lamp.

23/08/2020 20:12:22

RIchard, please take some pictures of the Colchester lamp you have. I want to show someone in SA what it looks like so that he can ID a lamp he has.

23/08/2020 19:06:06

Richard, would it be possible for you to measure the end cover's hole diameters for me as well as distances from the small fastening hole so that I can locate and size the holes correctly on my cover? Mine has been cut oval with a cutting torch for some reason.

I see the bottom hole on Phil's and Mat's lathe is also elongated and not round. What is the reason for this? Any ideas?

Edited By Herman van der Merwe on 23/08/2020 19:07:57

Edited By Herman van der Merwe on 23/08/2020 19:12:30

21/08/2020 20:47:13

Yeah Mat, looks tiny 'till you wanna lift them ...

Lights are like clamps. You can never have enough!

19/08/2020 20:17:07
Posted by Richard Kirkman 1 on 19/08/2020 18:51:47:
No, but I had fun!

And that is what it should all be about!

19/08/2020 18:36:26

A big old capstan lathe ... made for working ...

You did not heat the flange to red hot and then not enough flux you did add ... also the incorrect flame type.

So you learn, so you learn!

18/08/2020 18:02:05

I would remove the big C-clamp. Braze a nut or two in the angle iron with a bolt through it and tension the shaft with this. That big clamp is going to move with heat and it is just simply awkward, huge and made in China.

I would still clamp the shaft with a short section of smaller angle iron with the grooved C-clamp riding on the corner of the smaller angle iron. You need stability when things get hot. Remember to wear gators over your safety boots. Last thing you need for some blob of brazing to jump loose and into your boot. This is not welding where you can grit your teeth while your flesh is going up in smoke.

Have fun brazing.

Your lathe is starting to look good. Your fingernails not ...

16/08/2020 16:48:25
Posted by Richard Kirkman 1 on 16/08/2020 13:38:15:

However, I cannot seem to get this last gear off. The nut on the end is really tight and I can't get it to budge. That gear is okay, but if i'm replacing the other then I may as well do both.


I think I'll probably fit the belts back on next and try to align the motor perfectly with that string method or some way. I need to get it right this time! Since hopefully the oil seal won't leak so it shouldn't have to come off again for a while

Edited By Richard Kirkman 1 on 16/08/2020 13:47:02

Did you remove the grub screw in the nut? If not, remove it, screw a bolt in there, put a strap wrench on the nut and put tension on it. While under tension give the bolt a wack. Will come loose ...

If yours does not have a grub screw, drill a hole and use a pin C-spanner to undo it.

Edited By Herman van der Merwe on 16/08/2020 16:50:57

16/08/2020 09:00:55
Posted by Mat Stoeckle on 16/08/2020 03:40:55:

I'm about to start chiseling the paint off of my stand and bed .. I tried chemical stripping but the original filler just becomes a gooey mess .. and still sticks .. very unpleasant .. wire-wheels are messy/dusty and I can't / dont' want to afford sandblasting / dustless blasting at this point .. so, blood sweat and tears it will be with a couple of chisel pointed files .. A guy on youtube is restoring a Monarch 16 .. just came across his way of paint stripping yesterday .. check it out ... Machining 360: Monarch 16 CY restoration P15: Stripping and Painting .. Beautiful machine and great restoration .. we should all make these kinds of videos

Now you know why I took mine to bare metal. My lathe had seven layers of paint. The last three refused to budge with anything and I then used the trusted old method. Coat it with brake fluid. The next morning all the paint was soft except the original and the second layer. These were gooey as was all the putty and filler below it. Then I used a head gun with sharpened scrapers and a wire brush on a polisher to get this mess removed.

The Monarch guy spent AGES to get the inside of his lathe clean. And had many injuries caused by the rough sand paper finish from the casting process. He earned my respect as I know what a thankless job this is.

Make sure your scrapers are sharpened correctly and the paint comes off quickly for a while and then you need to sharpen again. Use a single cut file to do the sharpening.

Looking good Richard. I would still do the brazing as you will then have learned a lot! I am just a bit concerned that the very blingy handle can blind you when you switch on your new light!

13/08/2020 20:27:36

Great job! Especially the cuppa .. Brain loves it. He thinks he is the special friend!

13/08/2020 12:57:48
Posted by Richard Kirkman 1 on 13/08/2020 12:30:06

I managed to fit this quite easily. It was much stronger than the old spring, so hopefully, the lever should engage with a stronger click and feel even more satisfying. Only time will tell, but from first impression it seems better

Yes, it must click with a resounding click. Like opening a can of cold Guinness ...

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Support Our Partners
Eccentric July 5 2018
Eccentric Engineering
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest