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Member postings for AJAX

Here is a list of all the postings AJAX has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Saving the Planet or is it ?
26/09/2021 18:20:32
Posted by duncan webster on 13/09/2021 18:20:44:

I'm not rich enough to shop in Waitrose, so it doesn't apply to me.

I bought some heavy duty bags from Lidl about 7 or 8 years ago. Still using the same ones now. They might just turn out to be bags for (my) life.

Thread: Twinner Multi-Jigset (what is this tool for?)
25/08/2021 11:50:59

This may help. I found the clamps sold as a complete set with other parts. I'm still unsure about its purpose.

25/08/2021 11:40:30
Posted by Mike Hurley on 25/08/2021 09:03:10:

to me these look like adjustable tools to set things over a certain amount. I would think that a range of different jaws would have been available to suit the job in hand, the screw thread is fine adjustment for amount of ' throw ' and the lever actually closes the jaw and provides the set.

I'm thinking here typically of the tooth set on either hand saws or circular saw blades. I have a similar ( but more compact type ) for just this purpose - called a saw set and made by Eclipse. The types in the photos would possibly just be more versatile versions of this?

regards Mike

Thanks Mike. I assumed it was some type of mechanics tool but you may well be right.

25/08/2021 11:38:41
Posted by not done it yet on 25/08/2021 07:29:16:

IF it sells, or you could get another one, on sbay. Good bargain for a couple of clamps for a quid


I don't think anyone would be foolish enough to pay so much for these clamps. Of course, if anyone happens to know such a fool then feel free to put them in touch!

Thread: Oil Dauber
24/08/2021 22:37:06

Thanks - I had previously wondered what that hole was for. Seems like a matchstick would perform just as well as a "dauber".

Thread: Twinner Multi-Jigset (what is this tool for?)
24/08/2021 22:30:02

I bought a pair or matching clamps from a local car boot sale. 50p each. Three of the jaws are missing (easily replaced) and I don't have an immediate use for them, but they have an excellent clamping action and appear well made.

Before I consider re-purposing or modifying them, does anyone recognise them or their original use? They are marked Twinner Multi-Jigset and 2195.

20210824-123308 20210824-123344 20210824-130051

The only "information" I can find via the Internet is a number of sellers on eBay trying to sell them without any apparent knowledge of what they are for.

Thread: Corbetts Little Jim Lathe restoration - newbie needs advice
02/08/2021 20:55:18
Posted by Andy Thompson 3 on 06/07/2021 14:55:22:

Duffer, Ady1 - I have done domestic electrics and repaired things for decades so reasonably confortable. Earth continuity is fine, insulation is fine and circuit is RCD protected.

Not wishing to doubt your abilities (or in any way suggest mine are superior to yours), but how did you check the insulation? With a multimeter, or do you have a Megger-type 500/1000V insulation tester?

Thread: Rebuilding car trailer and welding/bolting galvanized frame
27/07/2021 23:24:56
Posted by Robert Atkinson 2 on 27/07/2021 19:54:47:

Doing substantial modification to the trailer i.e. from tent to load carrying would almost certaintly require an new inspection and approval. Many will say "not a problem". Howevert if you get stopped (trailers are often stopped due to level of theft) or have an accident they won't pay your fine or take the point for you... Insurance may be an issue too if you have an accident. If another car is damaged they have to pay the third party, but that does not stop them coming after you to get it back if you had a un inspected trailer.
Up to you to decide on the level of risk you are happy with.

Robert G8RPI.

Thanks for raising this point - it's always worth rechecking.

This page (screenshot below) looks like it might be useful, but none of the linked sections/pages refer to trailers.


The next page (screenshot below) appears more useful but I suspect it may apply only to large goods trailers and not small trailers of O1 class.



Perhaps the best way forward will be to phone an approved test centre to confirm what rules actually apply.

Edited By AJAX on 27/07/2021 23:26:45

27/07/2021 23:10:26

Here is something that may also be of interest - the inspection costs (which I do not believe are required in my case) seem quite reasonable.

source -

Edited By AJAX on 27/07/2021 23:11:02

27/07/2021 23:02:33

For anyone taking an interest in this thread (and wondering whether their trailer would pass inspection) I found the official IVA inspection manual quite useful.

27/07/2021 14:12:34
Posted by pgk pgk on 27/07/2021 13:20:39:

I recently replaced the rotting wood base on my farm trailer with salvage steel 'planks'. 2 coats of farm oxide appear to have given it a surprisingly durable finish. Also discovered that the stuff can be sourced in a rainbow selection of colours with minimal prep.


Sounds good for your application, but maybe too heavy for my needs.

27/07/2021 14:11:30
Posted by Nigel McBurney 1 on 27/07/2021 12:19:49:

I would not weld to a galvanised chassis,welding and zinc do not mix,when grinding the zinc coating off I have found that the zinc appears to have penetrated into the base steel and it takes further grinding into the base material to get clean material,this is ok with say 10mm thick plate,but the welding will still spit and bang occasionally,so use bolted construction and only drill holes into the centre line of the channel, do not drill the flanges of the channel,it will serious ly weaken them, If you are converting to a box trailer the way to stiffen the trailer is to make sides from angle iron ,welded at the corners then fill the frame with 12 mm ply and make it a really tight fit so that it becomes a girder section, on light trailers the weakest point is where the trailer "box" meets the drawbar and it may pay to to add some plate to the channel section drawbar , make sure the wheel bearings are well greased and get a spare wheel nearly all trailer problems are old tyres and bearings failing. Also make sure that you inform the car insurance company that you have a tow bar fitted,they are regarded as accessories. some time ago I checked with Direct line about my Discovery ,although it had been fitted from new with a towbar Direct line needed to know,as they regard it as an accessory and must be declared,and updated the policy though there was no extra cost .

Thanks, that's just the information I was looking for. I'm now suitably put off the idea of any welding on the trailer chassis.

For reference, most of the trailer is made from U-section galvanized steel, 1/8" thick. Actually, "U-section" may be a misnomer as some has another rolled edge for stiffness. Most of the bed is constructed from 2.5" x 2" and the A-frame (bolted onto the chassis) is built from 3.5" x 1.5".

Now that you have put doubt into my mind, I will phone my insurer to check...

27/07/2021 11:42:12

One thing I might mention is that after collecting this trailer with my existing lighting board, I realized that due to it's width (over 1.3 m) the lighting requirements are different to a smaller box trailer - e.g. fog lights are required, side reflector requirements, etc. Braked trailers manufactured after October 2012 also require a reversing light, which I think would be a good idea for this trailer, but perhaps not a legal requirement as I suspect it is older. In fact, since checking these rules I'll have to take another look at my nearly 50-year-old "skip" trailer to check that it is road legal.

27/07/2021 11:31:13
Posted by Nicholas Wheeler 1 on 27/07/2021 08:04:20:

Is it really worth using a trailer tent frame? They're even flimsier and smaller than a caravan, which are are virtually useless once the body woodwork rots away. The suspension and wheels on trailer tents tend to be the lightest components available too.

I say this having recovered the wreckage of several such things that weren't up to the job they were being used for.

All valid comments and I agree that some caravan / trailer-tent frames are unsuitable for conversion, but this one seems adequate for my needs. With some modification, mostly a small amount of bracing, a flat deck and some hold downs, I think it will be adaptable enough and safe to use. I plan to fabricate some bike / kayak / material carriers that can be added/removed between uses.

This trailer frame is plated 650 kg max gross weight. I don't know whether this assumes some structural integrity from the tent box framework which has been removed, but I don't plan to go anywhere near this weight.

The Al-Ko axle and 145R10 tyres seem more substantial than most I've seen on small box trailers (e.g. Erde) with the added bonus of a working brake system.

Of course, I could be wrong!


27/07/2021 11:11:22
Posted by Dave Halford on 27/07/2021 10:11:43:

Your trailer will be plated for the weight it was as a trailer tent and no more, don't add so much weight that you can't carry anything in it.

Thanks for raising this, but I expect it to be well within the limit. The trailer (Conway Products Ltd, model number CDX/93) is plated 650kg maximum gross weight and appears substantial enough for my intended uses which will mostly be limited to carrying bulky but not particularly heavy items (e.g. kayak, family bikes, sheet materials, fencing posts and rails, etc.) It happens to be braked which is nice, but maybe not essential for my intended uses.

27/07/2021 11:05:57
Posted by ega on 27/07/2021 09:40:14:

Has the use of a suitable mask as a precaution against fumes been mentioned?

I think a mask to the FFP3 standard would be suitable.

I don't think that would help, would it? I have FFP3 masks and filters for particulates and vapours, but they won't filter the gas.

27/07/2021 11:04:35
Posted by Kiwi Bloke on 27/07/2021 02:11:19:

Go ahead and weld (with precautions as above), fabricate in MS, and send the job to the galvanizers - better than spray-on Zn-rich paint.

I rather suspect that would make it an expensive build. My other trailer (now almost 50 years old) seems to have done okay without a zinc coating.

27/07/2021 11:03:23
Posted by Grindstone Cowboy on 26/07/2021 23:21:21:

I'd say galvanised fixings and fittings are to be preferred, but most importantly, if you are welding to the galvanised chassis, be sure to grind off the zinc coating for a good few inches around the weld area as zinc fumes are poisonous. Probably OK if outdoors with a bit of wind, but be careful.

As a finish, one of the so-called "cold-galvanising" sprays would do, or just a good primer and suitable paint - but that way you'll probably end up painting the whole thing.


Based on some of the comments here, plus what I've now read online, I will probably opt for mechanical fixings rather than weld anything on. I remember gas-cutting galvanized tubing in a milking parlour as a young man, and I'm still alive today, not to say that is an endorsement of the practice!

26/07/2021 23:08:50

I have the chassis of an old trailer tent that I intend to re-purpose as a multi-functional trailer for my own use. The chassis is in good condition and is mostly constructed from U-section galvanized steel. All my previous fabrication projects have used plain mild steel.

Some of my modifications / add-ons will require securing to the chassis. Can I bolt and/or weld mild steel fabrications to the chassis or will this be problematic? I'm thinking of various connectors for removable sides, mudguard supports, ladder/kayak rack, tie down points, etc. I would also like to reinforce the frame in a couple of places. I presume it's good practice to grind off any galvanized first when welding, but please correct me if I am wrong. If I do weld mild steel to the galvanized frame, what finish should be applied?

Would it be okay to fabricate some parts from mild steel, apply an appropriate paint, and then bolt to the galvanized steel frame? In this situation, are galvanized fixings required or preferred?

I should probably mention the trailer will be stored outside covered by a tarpaulin.

Thread: AA batteries
26/07/2021 22:44:19
Posted by Clive Hartland on 26/07/2021 22:00:37:

I recently bought some AA batteries, a box of 40.

Needing to change the batteries in the house fone I tipped out the old ones and inserted the new fresh ones but found that the + contact did not reache the contact in the battery holder.

I am convinced that the new batteries + end is shorter than it should be.

I will now have to commit surgery on the battery box to cut away part of it to allow full contact.

The batteries came from a reputable supplier.

Was that a BT cordless phone by any chance? I had exactly the same problem when I changed batteries but when I prised the spring clips out a bit it was enough to make good contact. Alternatively I could have bought the BT approved/branded replacements instead at an inflated price.

Update - my phone uses AAA and not AA batteries.

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