Here is a list of all the postings AJAX has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Couple of things at Lidl|
I have the impression, perhaps incorrectly, the lock-on type switch is banned in the USA.
I dropped an angle grinder fitted with a knotted wire brush once. Switch was locked on. Now that was "fun".
|Thread: Hand cleaner|
The thing I like about swarfega is I can use it in the workshop without access to a sink and wipe my hands fairly clean and dry before returning to the house where I can wash them properly without making the sink filthy.
Well I used shampoo and now don't have any hair. Who is making the greatest savings?
|Thread: Failed to get this digital clock kit working :(|
Tracks lifting off with heat - sounds like a typical problem with beginner soldering to me.
The switches are square, but the pin layout is not. It's therefore generally difficult to place them incorrectly in a PCB.
Mike, I sketched this for you - I hope it helps.
Bear in mind that even a "failed project" is not a waste of time. It's all a learning experience.
|Thread: Problem with 4 jaw chuck|
Another thing I should mention is the jaws are numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4. The chuck is similarly marked with centre-punched dots.
I have an independent 4 jaw chuck sitting on my workbench not being used. It looks vintage and has no maker's name. The jaws "fit" and appear to be from a set (all marked 171) but I am unable to say if they are original.
The problem with this chuck is the jaws do not close parallel with each other. A superficial glance suggests bell-mouthing through wear but on closer inspection the inner faces of the chuck jaws show they are in excellent condition - they still show the original machining.
The "slides" in the chuck body look good as do the screws. The jaws have minimal slop in their respective slides.
I could make a ring to hold all 4 jaws in position and then grind their internal faces. I have previously done this with a 3 jaw scroll chuck but never needed nor thought I would need to do this with an independent chuck.
Any suggestions before I attempt a fix?
|Thread: Roland CNC engraving / milling machine and 32-bit driver|
I'd rather not use one of those dodgy websites. I'll see if I can find someone with an old licence code they are no longer using. If it works, I'll only use it once then delete the o/s anyway.
I already have a cheap machine running XP, but I was hoping to use something more up to date. I'm also interested in seeing if I can run a firmware update, but to do that it seems that I need Windows 7, maybe.
That's an idea. Something I should have thought about myself. I wonder if the virtual xp will have access to the USB port for printing. I may give it a try.
I have acquired a very nice Roland CNC engraving / milling machine that is in mint condition and works without fault. It is maybe 15 years old. I have the CAD/CAM software and a 32 bit driver but am currently limited to using Windows XP only. The driver is Win XP / Vista / Windows 7 compatible and I have instructions from the reseller to install on a 64 bit operating system (the instructions, unfortunately, do not work at present). Elsewhere on the internet I have found instructions to perform a firmware update to a fully 64-bit system but the update appears to require Windows 7.
I am presently stuck using Windows XP (because I have a copy) and cannot progress to using Windows 10 (which I have running and licenced on more than one machine). Windows 7 is available to download from Microsoft with a suitable product / licence code which I do not have. There is no option to purchase a code from Microsoft.
Basically, I need to install Windows 7 (32 bit), perform the firmware update, and then remove Windows 7. I'd rather not purchase some fake codes from eBay. Any suggestions?
|Thread: MS 'Edge' - Points and Pitfalls?|
NetScape Navigator anyone?
But seriously, Edge or Chrome should be just fine. Whichever one you are using, select your preferred search engine rather that accept a default.
|Thread: Boxford Model C leadscrew half-nuts|
The threads looked like they were inserts brazed in. Not to worry anyway as all fixed for now, and if I decide to replace it may be with new imports from Oz.
|Thread: All the gear, no idea|
If using eBay to judge prices, make sure that you refer to some prices and not unrealistically high asking or best offer prices. Good luck.
|Thread: Boxford Model C leadscrew half-nuts|
That's the tool, thanks.
A photo in case people don't wish to view the video...
Bazyle, that's a really nice idea and one that I might try. I particularly like the idea of a hex socket and know there's a tool to make one on a lathe but the name escapes me at present.
In any case I may remake the studs at some point maybe with a little more care and better choice of materials. I used some 3/4" EN8 as that's what I had to hand. What alternative material would people suggest - EN19? But then again I'm cheap and like to make do with whatever I've got.
David, you made me doubt myself there and I had to rewatch the video. To save others the effort I have linked directly to the time you mentioned. I don't see any excessive wear but the next time I remove the apron (which probably won't be long) I will have another more careful look.
Wow, they are expensive! New ones can be bought for less.
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