Here is a list of all the postings Shent has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Non tilting; tilting head.....tilt|
I did look at the lux mill when I was shopping around, looked good but not sure if they are made by the same company as when I spoke with Weiss; they only mentioned Amadeal as their UK distributor.
Also make you pull the pin out on the side of the headstock as it wont move anywhere
Sorry Iain, read it wrong, short answer is yes, you need to undo the centre bolt, loosen a little then try rotating, loosen a little more if no movement and so on. Don't loosen it too much though as you'll put too much strain on the bolts.
Hi Iain, unfortunately when the head is rotated the bolt will always fall into the top access point. This happened to me each time I rotated. The last time I put the head on though I tightened all of the other bolts up so I could just about move the thing, left the bolt that would normally slip into the channel loose and just guided it away from the slot as I rotated. I would suggest doing exactly this so tighten all the other bolts up tightish, slack pre the bolt closest to 12 o clock and see if you can bring it back into the rotation channel.....horrible explanation. Also make sure the pin on the side is pulled out otherwise you're not moving it anywhere.
|Thread: Painted T Slots|
I brought one of these just before Xmas Iain, exactly the same issue bud and did the same thing, brute forced T-nuts so I could hold down my vice. I am new to milling but my 2 cents is to leave the paint finish on if you can, I imagine it would be an absolute nightmare to get some kind of oil in all the nooks and crannes after stripping to protect the bare metal. I'm just going to re-apply paint (albeit less haphazardly). Couldn't you just remove the paint where the vice aligner is going to go and leave the rest (I've not seen a vice aligner so using my imagination at this point).?
|Thread: Problem with my downstairs ;)|
They could have been lock nuts or bearing nuts Jason, they look exactly like what Phil linked. Unfortunately Mart I brought one of the fork like collet spanners when i got my first er collet so wouldn't have worked anyway but I think the OD was around 22mm, standard right hand thread as well luckily. My adjustable spanners arrived today Howard and had the nuts off in no time, I can get into the guts of the thing now to take some measures for the replacement block that i will need to make for the ballscrew. Thanks all for your help.
Thanks all, they could be slotted round nuts Pete or bearing nuts as Howard said. Regardless as Mike said a C spanner should get them off so a quick measure up and should be able to order a pair of them. Thanks guys, I do try and search for these things first but I know the experiece found in this forum always gets me to the answer.
Should have also stated that this is a picture of the top of my column, the nuts are holding the bearing against the top plate and the acme screw.
As aluded to in the title i have a problem with my nuts, that is......identifying them. Anyone have any ideas at all? They look like er collet nuts but I have seen these used on other machines so just wanted to check if it could be anything else?
|Thread: angular contact bearing selection|
Thanks for the resonses all. It's only a hobby machine Nigel so couldn't justify commercial grade prices but thanks for the link bud, figured out a way to reduce the depth of the whole assembly, i'm going to thread one end of my coupler. Think i have the design down decentlyl for the x axis Howard, Left some movement when screwing the bearing plate to the table by the way of slots as I wont be able to get everyting bang on.....especially first time around. Using some couplers that will allow for some misalignment of the stepper shaft and ballscrew so should hopefully be ok and took all measurements from ground, mating suraces only. Thanks mart and KW56, just been looking at simply bearings, if i need to get some more bearings in the future could upgrade but i think what's on that site will be fine for now.
Thanks Nigel, never knew about the difference in angle needed for these. Due to the limitations that I have regarding the length of the ballscrew I need to make my own housing for them, no issue (in theory) with getting that done, just didn't know if I could get away with 1 double row instead of 2 singles. Good to know that I dont need a third at the floating end though.
Hi All, hope you had a great Christmas.
I am starting to draw up the designs for a cnc conversion of my mill, I have most of the purchased hardware but I am sketching out the plates and ballnut mounts now and have hit a bit of a wall so need some expertise.
1. I know the likes of SKF are the best ACB's but has anyone used another (preferably cheaper) manufacturer such as dunlop etc?
2. Can I use a double row ACB instead of 2 single row ACB's? I have an x screw which can take bearings at both ends but the y and z can only take bearings at one as the other end just floats.
Any help would really be appreciated.
|Thread: Non tilting; tilting head.....tilt|
Thanks Mart, yeah really glad I got the bulk work done before the chaos of xmas.
Well it's took 5 days to get to this point. Dismantling, making a bench, bit of wiring, cleaning, oiling, and reassembling but I got there in the end so thank you all for the guidance along the way. Tramming starts tomorrow.
Thanks Jason, Y axis lead nut has been removed, could see that it was probably going to hit. will have a look at the 2 ends though. I bet i've tried to get it out the wrong way, place your bets guys and gals. lol
Thanks Jason, There's not a general standard for which way it comes out is there?
Yes they aren't too bad weight wise Mart, heavier than I would like and the column took me by suprise when i undid all the bolts and a the gas ram nearly knocked me over but getting there. I can only see 2 issues that are going to cause me some real trouble. Re- attaching the gas ram as the thing is really strong, I couldn't move it when I tried earlier and getting the y axis off as the gib is really stuck in there.
Nice spot martin, i completely missed that but the angle that the head rotated to would line up perfectly with the tee bolt entry gap and explains why it would only move a few degrees each way. I have just got to make sure that doesn't happen again when i re-assemble. I'll tighten all the bolts up tight whilst its supported then just loosen the 3 perimeter bolts by 1/4 - 1/2 turn like Bandersnatch said and take it from there. I'll leave the alignment pin on the side of the head out until i'm back upto vertical.
Good point John, will have a look to see how they fit back on and file down the high spots, nice tip thanks.
|Thread: Temporary oil conundrum|
My oil turned up so all good, not even close to using it due to the chaos of dismantling over the past 2 days, thanks all for the help.
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