Here is a list of all the postings Triumphboy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Warco GH600|
The silly issues are a pain in the whatsit but if it was too much to bear and if most of us weren't engineers and enjoy a challenge, I'd probably would have returned it.
However, it is a good lathe as far as I know and enjoy it too much to allow it to be anything more than a minor "challenge" here and there.
Warco kindly sent be a couple of litres when I first complained about the leak.
I have sent you a copy of the document.
So far as I know, the oil level should be about half way up the sight glass. Overfilling it slightly shouldn't make any difference in this gearbox, in my opinion.
I did drill a 2mm hole in the filler plug (underneath the little rubber mat) to let out any pressure as the oil heats up during use and needed to see if it caused a mess but it appears to be ok after a couple of hours use.
There appears to no seals anywhere on the gearbox or the saddle so it's been leaking from at least tree places so far. The shafts would appear to be the only thing going through the casing. No lip seals!
I've just machined the part on the saddle block and fitted a seal last week. The part machined was the silver cast iron round piece behind the handle mounted on with 3 screws. I clocked the hole before cutting the seal and found it was out by about 12 thou so used shims in the chuck to keep it concentric.
The one you are referring to might be a really tricky fix. It's a bit annoying in a way because it would cost pennies to make a proper seal during manufacture and make the machine a better quality product.
If your feedshaft direction changer leaks behind the front panel ( The top silver knob) I made a document about doing the fix. I can email it to you if you want to look at it. I've no doubt it will leak from there too at some point. A small amount of oil leaking wouldn't be a problem but in my case, it was excessive so I had to do something about it. I wrote about it earlier on in this thread.
Edited By Triumphboy on 01/04/2020 16:31:02
GH600 Lathe Oil Leak Repair
After my previous rambles about oil leaks, I finally completed the detection, thought process and solution for this, the largest of the leaks.
I have produced a PDF document explaining the process I used to sort out this oil leak. I tried to attach it here but I couldn't figure out if you could or couldn't add attachments.
If anyone is interested, I can email it to you and if you decide you want to go ahead, I can post the replacement lever mount that needs fitting to allow you to modify your unit, as a loan unit while you machine yours.
All of this took many hours and became a project that I / we shouldn't have to do but there you go!
Hopefully, these steps will provide help to someone that identifies the same issue on their machine.
The O ring prevents a bit of the leakage but most of the oil was coming out of the lever hence the oil seal.
All the dimensions are in the PDF.
Note:- The O ring is a 2.5mm cross section 19mm ID (Slightly stretched) and the front Oil seal is 21mm OD x 15mm ID x 3mm thick.
Best regards and good luck. Triumphboy. J
Edited By Triumphboy on 01/04/2020 16:18:34
Edited By Triumphboy on 01/04/2020 16:32:09
Having fixed 3 oil leaks so far, two on oil sight glasses and one on the main carriage handle that was dripping on the floor.
One sight glass needed a nip up and the other wouldn't seal. I removed the ridiculously hard plastic O ring and replaced it with a nitrile rubber one. Nipped up gently it seals perfectly.
The leaking handle was leaking from the spindle and the 3 screw heads which had a little RTV on them. Useless. They were replaced with fibre washers and I made a gasket for the body of the block with the spindle through it to the carriage. Solved that one!
There is another one which is dripping through from the gearbox into the left hand cover and dripping into the top left hand draw via the thread on the mounting bolt. It is very difficult to see where the oil leak originates. At the moment, I think it's coming from the gearbox spindles inside that left hand cover and running down and eventually getting into the draw.
However, I called Warco for some help. I called and got through twice and waited for someone to ring me back. I waited a few more days and tried many times to get through. Left a message eventually and still no one replied!
Phoned again next day and spoke to a gentleman who said they'd arranged for their service company to ring me. WSM. Nobody bothered to inform me! Next day WSM rang and an appointment was arranged for someone to visit.
I've read many good things about Warco customer service and they seem to have fallen short on this occasion.
Hopefully we can solve this oil leak as it's quite a big one.
A big well done for having a go to remove the carriage and finding the offender.
It may just be that it was broken all along hence the reason for the thread failure. Also. Thanks for the pictures! It helps me if I ever have the same problem.
As for the cap head countersink, I have done this recently by drilling to the near depth that is required. If you then grind that drill bit of the same size, maybe a worn out one, flat on the grind wheel, It will do the job perfectly well. Probably best to clamp the workpiece before both operations.
Well done from me once again.
The easiest way I can see is to use an M8 Helicoil / Recoil repair.
It's possible to drill straight down from the top and all the way through with the tapping size drill
Drill the clearance size of the OD for the helicoil in the yellow block and fit it from the top.
You'd need to make a shoulder bolt, or it may be possible to sleeve the yellow block to reduce it's size again.
That is all I can think of after looking at it.
As a bonus, I've used recoils to increase the strength of the threads in plastic and other soft materials in the past so it should be more robust.
Failing that, a lot of work I think.
Best of luck.
Thank for taking the time to reply and the links.
Hadn't realised there was a spindle available as well. Makes life a little easier.
I've spent more time changing tools than the actual cutting. A good investment methinks.
Thanks for the post of the tool post!
I see you fitted a GIB (I think it's called) type rather than a piston lock.
What size did you use please? I don't want to screw up and order the wrong thing and have to return it.
Nice work with the spindle.
Thanks in advance.
And a slide hammer!
Not sure if you're close by to Buckingham area. I have a set of panel beating hammers and dollies and have done some sheet metalwork and car body repairs. Will help you if you need.
You're quite right Bazyle. I've seen a couple of them but it involved a lot of work and I didn't want to damage the lathe before I understand it a lot better. Spending more time learning about tooling at the moment.
If it makes you feel any better, I've wondered about the top table too but haven't given the time to think about it, so thanks for asking the question. .
I tried to figure out a way to make a simple lever / cam to lock the saddle when required rather than using an Allen key. Unfortunately, the friction isn't so strong when engaged so it's not effective. Will need to think again.
Saying that, I noticed lots of chatter when parting off at a fairly slow speed and found that the cross slide was the culprit. I could watch it juddering quite clearly. A slight adjustment of the locking screws to the dovetail sorted out the problem and it parts much more cleanly now although I had it a little too tight to start with and the wheel was a bit harder to turn than felt sensible (Wear to the slide). Since then, I've adjusted the saddle too and that is another improvement. The friction is enough not to cause wear but prevents judder. Also, the saddle moving on it's own isn't so much of a problem with normal cutting pressures so locking off the screw won't be needed as much.
To my mind, the improvement is significant. Has anyone else been down this road?
Hiya Jed and others.
Thanks for the reply. I've tried mine and it appears to lock reasonably well. I think it'll be enough to prevent slippage with the amount of cutting force capable with this machine. I might make a sort of cam lock like the ones for quick release on bicycle wheels.
So far I am very pleased with this lathe too. I had to adjust the tailstock a couple of thou and it's now within a thou. The 3 jaw chuck runs very true. The chuck guard, as mentioned, needs some modification as it catches too often on the standard toolpost.
I just need to develop some decent skills after not using one for about 40 years or so.. I can still sharpen a drill by hand. Thank heavens for YouTube!
Thanks again to all that took the time to help.
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