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Member postings for DiogenesII

Here is a list of all the postings DiogenesII has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Hobbymat MD65 fixed steady
12/01/2020 12:14:39

Hi Gene, it sounds like your lathe came with a useful selection of accessories.

The second part of the article in MEW describes the upper part of the steady, it is in issue 217, p.40

Below are some photo's of the Hobbymat-supplied item. It looks flimsy, but I've never had any problems using it. Also a quick dimensioned sketch made with a view to hacking one out of a piece of 110x90x20 aluminium plate with hand tools and drill press - apologies for it not being a more formal drawing, I hope most of the essential details are clear..


09/01/2020 21:40:22

Michael; thanks for the link, the bed stop details most useful..

Gene, aluminium will be fine for the steady, I have one and will photograph/draw as soon as I have time.

It is just a round aluminium casting, lugged and drilled radially with three holes for the pins that support the work, and with a flat "foot" which is secured to the bed with a "U" bolt.. not a very elegant solution, but it works..

The aperture does not have to be bored - depending on the style, most of the body could be made with hand tools if necessary, with only the three holes for the support pins and the flat base requiring accurate drilling or facing, for which they could be clamped to either the top- or cross-slide..

I'll post as soon as I can.. busy for two days, I'll try to steal some time..

Thread: hobbymat not cutting Parallel
09/01/2020 20:53:27

Unplug the machine and remove the collar, pulley, gear, and key.

Loosen the rear locking ring and snug the front ring up until play is eliminated at the front bearing - the bearings should not be under load and the spindle should rotate smoothly.

A bar in the spindle/chuck to act as a lever will enable you to check more easily for sideways movement.

Having achieved this, hold the front ring still with the spanner and tighten the rear ring to lock it - it may take a few goes to get it feeling just right - patience is the key!

Replace the key, gear, pulley etc. and test run the machine - it should run smoothly and freely at 2000 rpm, and without getting hot at the bearings (warm after prolonged running is okay).

If it feels stiff, "notchy," or labouring to reach maximum speed, you will have to go back, loosen the rings, and release the bearing load by tapping the back of the spindle towards the tailstock with something soft, such as a piece of wood. Repeat adjustment until satisfied - it sounds laborious, but doesn't take long and is worth doing carefully because the improvement in the feel of the cutting action and the finish on the work are marked on this small machine.

The photo's provided by Nick include the section regarding adjustment of the spindle bearings, such as they are..

Thread: Have a look at this, view from the chuck
09/01/2020 07:23:56

I want to see "From the Ram of My Shaper at Full Travel"..

Thread: Timesaver lapping compound quandary
09/01/2020 06:50:42

"Do not use Hard Metal Compound (Green Label) on Babbitt, brass, aluminum or bronze. For this work, use our soft metal compound (Yellow Label). Timesaver can be used on any hard metal friction surfaces where accurate fits are required, such as valve seats, machine tool wars, tool room applications, etc. "


see also..

..Hope this helps...

Thread: Hobbymat MD65 fixed steady
08/01/2020 10:51:04

Hi Gene.

A version of the Hobbymat is still (?) in production - it is known as the SU300 Masterturn lathe, and is available in the UK from;

In Europe, I only found this, whom I think are the current manufacturers/Licence holders - maybe they can help?

The machines were widely marketed throughout Europe for many years, so those auction sites may also yield used examples. All variants of the MD65/SU300 part should fit - the machine was "branded" under many names, possibly the most complete resource is this one..

It is possible that a steady from another machine can be adapted, providing it has a 65mm centre height.

Good luck D

Thread: hobbymat not cutting Parallel
07/01/2020 20:05:38

Jamie, hope it goes well.

Nick - interesting - I've never seen one with those slide switches - they have quite a "Soviet" look to them..

regards both D

07/01/2020 17:08:36

Thanks for clarifying..

07/01/2020 13:30:32

Nick, as a matter of interest, do your Clamping & Forcing Screws 5 & 6 actually conform to the last illustration? ..only asking because mine are the opposite way round to that..

07/01/2020 06:56:28

Hi Jamie

When you check the alignment again, make sure that the saddle is correctly adjusted to allow free movement along the bed, but without free-play - this is critical to accuracy on the Hobbymat as it has a round bed. Use a centre in the tailstock, and lock both the tailstock and the tailstock quill, as well as the slides.

As Jason suggests, looseness of the headstock bearings will cause this issue - if you have run it for 1/2 hour since refitting them, I'd check this first - they do tend to settle in a after a little running..

Thread: Stuck Chuck
06/01/2020 18:13:36

Old Mart got there first +1 for impact driver.

Thread: Odd sleeve
05/01/2020 18:20:14

Similar to here, at 12 minutes in - different shaped part, of course, but same principle.

apologies, tried to embed but couldn't find sizing option..

05/01/2020 18:12:02

I think Nick has it.. Hot forging in a die using a mandrel of the correct shape?

05/01/2020 11:00:48

..Broached? there a wedge-slot at the back? looks like one of those processes that sprang from their gun industry..

Thread: Imperial supplies of mild steel
04/01/2020 11:05:07

GLR Kennions still supply in 3/4 & 1" widths..

Thread: Hobbymat lathe - couple of questions
03/01/2020 18:21:24

Hi Chris. The standard milling table that Hobbvymat supplied is aluminium alloy, and the vise bolts length-wise to it, i.e. jaws parallel to slots.

If you want (or need) to use the vise with the jaws in the other orientation, it can be bolted directly to the topslide - using one mounting hole beneath the toolpost, and the other is the one between the toolpost and the back of the slide (if you wondered what it was for.. it's usually plugged with a slotted grubscrew) mindful of the length of the bolts used - there's very little clearance between the upper & lower parts of the slide, and also, be gentle when tightening either the vise or the toolpost when fitting - the standard bolts have a shear groove in them to prevent overtightening (and bowing or warping the topslide)

Thread: RMC Type-B Engine Build
03/01/2020 17:53:49

Ha, that brings back the days of the Colourtune! ..seriously though, that's a very clean & consistent burn - do you know what fuel it's running on in the video?

Thread: mystery collet for Prazi SD400 lathe
03/01/2020 06:41:14

Thanks for the information Peter, I suspected that the answer would lie in the DIN system somewhere - the smaller Hobbymat/Prazi/Saupe Sohn machines with which I am more familiar never seem to have been supplied with draw-in collets and instead used a small spindle-nose chuck taking DIN 6343 F17 125E collets..

02/01/2020 22:02:04

Well. Clearly a vexed question.. anyone?

Thread: A 5cc Twin Shaft diesel engine
31/12/2019 19:33:16

All of this was a completely unknown world to me until the 'Viper thread.. now I find I'm really looking forward to watching things develop, many thanks all.

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