Here is a list of all the postings DiogenesII has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Faceplate workholding.|
Is this for a riser block? ..Maybe canny working-out of bolt positions will enable you to locate them either where they need to be, or in some "dead" area where it doesn't matter - then you can bolt to the faceplate it as Hopper suggests, and (with a nod to Pete Rimmer) use a half centre to add some support the distal end whillst still allowing it to be faced.
|Thread: Warco Mill - but what model??|
If you can count the threads-per-inch, 3/8 Whit should be 16, 7/16 Unf will have 20..
The 7/16 Unf will look noticeably "fine" compared with M10, whilst Whit will look to be about the same pitch.
Might be worth seeing if your spindle bore will accept a piece of 12mm bar, and use treaded rod & a nut to make one - it'll be fine, strength-wise - and perhaps offer a greater range of tooling/suppliers.
Matthew, I do beg your pardon, but I have to ask whether you are absolutely sure it is M10 and couldn't possibly be the 3/8 Whitworth as indicated in the specification (from Nicholas) given above? The dimensions are, superficially at least, similar.
3/8 Whit is a common "Imperial" option for 3MT spindle tooling, so finding stuff that fits might become a little easier.
Sincere apologies if there is no doubt..
|Thread: Hydraulic ram machining|
Not sure exactly what the prevalence of steel-framed buildings is in NZ, but here, nearly every non-domestic building of the last 40 years is done that way - hence "Mag-drills" have become a standard builders/farmers hire item..
|Thread: Proxxon milling machine motor upgrade|
I fitted a 3-phase motor/invertor to a small (1MT spindle capacity) milling head last year - I used a 0.37kw motor having a "56" frame size and a "B14" flange mount, the shaft is 14mm dia.
0.18kw-and up are available in this frame size. About £50 new - check the "min" operating frequency/torque values - cheaper motors suffer more in this area, more expensive ones are better spec'ed at the lower end.
The motor is c. 100mm in diameter, 180 long, and has a 60mm spigot with four 6mm bolts on a 75 (or is it 76) mm PCD - if this helps as a starting point for further research. Specs may differ by maker - check!
I used two step pulleys to get useable ranges from about 350-2500 rpm from a two-pole motor, might have got same speed & more torque from a (safely) over-driven 4-pole, maybe someone can comment?
About £56 new mid-range motor & £50 cheapy (but very well-featured, nonetheless) vfd..
Now I really MUST go to work...
|Thread: Cutting Parameters for Small Slotdrill|
Just got home to ask the same question as JB...?
|Thread: Boll-Aero 1.8cc Diesel|
Keith - commiserations! ..although from a slightly ghoulish perspective, very interesting and informative. I made an initial start on the same engine some weeks ago, and although not managing to progress quickly with it, it's enlightening to actually see physical evidence of the levels of stress that some parts are under. Best wishes for a successful conclusion..
If it helps to offset some of the pain of the extra troubles, I think your redesign was absolutely worth it - it looks very well indeed. The proportions and "black" look spot-on. Nice.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
..that swarf will be a good source of phosphoros for the garden..
|Thread: Unkown plastic|
"Crystal" styrene would probably be the popular choice for an optically clear moulded product.. it's probably the only polymer that is clear enough / has the most convincing refractive properties to look like glass.. you'll be able to tell if you can burn a fragment of it - it's distinctively acrid..
|Thread: Hammer flipping experiment?|
..has this come about from your researches into the Grateful Dead, Neil? ..there's a certain relevance..
|Thread: Free or inexpensive 2D cad for clock wheels|
I've relatively recently discovered this;
..it's about £16 to buy the full package, but one can trial it for free.. ..I have no commercial interest in this product, I simply wanted a CAD package that can generate technical drawings in a way that I can get my head around in hours rather than days..
Don't be put off by the fact that it calls itself an "App" - I think they are somewhat underselling it.. Although it's not mentioned in "Features" linked to above, one can switch between absolute, relative, or polar coordinates in the same drawing, which I guess is what you will need for drawing your crossings out..
|Thread: Newly back to model engineering - Issue with Hobbymat BFE65|
Agree with Paul, check the motor fan cover first. (Also, and profuse apologies if you know this, but the gears must be carefully selected before startng by turning the spindle back and forth as the engagement levers are operated until they are felt to go fully "home".. )
If you do need to check the action of the gear assembly, you need to remove the opposite cover - the one with the downfeed lever.. (Isolate the power - Remove the screw and washer, pull off the lever and dial, remove the (parallel/straight) pin and any washer or shim, then the cover screws - note that one may be shorter to avoid fouling the motor screw at the upper rear).
With the cover removed and rotating the spindle backwards & forwards by hand, switch each speed selector lever into it's high & low range - each lever acts to move a steel dog (keyed to it's respective shaft) into or out of mesh with one of a pair of (either phenolic, or ?acetal) gears which lie above and below it, and are free to rotate on the shaft.
The upper lever moves the dog between the pair on the output shaft to the spindle, the lower operates that between the pair on the countershaft which picks up the drive from the motor.
In each lever position, only one of the gears should be "connected" with the spindle via the dog - the "freewheeling" gear that is not engaged with the dog MUST still be CORRECTLY engaged with it's respective pinion on the other shaft - i.e., all four resin or plastic gears must sit squarely, evenly, and consistently, and be in constant mesh with their mating gear, irrespective of the position of the dog (- it is not unheard of for the (white) plastic gears to come loose from their internal bronze bushes, this case usually evidenced by wobbling or vertical misalignment that is obvious to the eye.
Which brings me back to the intruction regarding wiggling the spindle to ensure engagement of the dogs with the gears - the dog itself comprises only a simple tongue , and so the gears must be manually rotated to "pick up" the corresponding slots in the pinion to ensure correct drive before the motor is started.
I hope that "your" noise is just a lack of proper engagement.. if the "grub screw" detents that you mention are located in the lever-bosses, they a standard fitment.
Oh, and do be mindful of aligning the selector lever forks with their slots in the dogs when you reassemble the left hand cover.. can't remember what the lever positions have to be in, without checking.. will be obvious, I'm sure..
Let us know how how things go..
Edited By DiogenesII on 26/06/2020 16:30:05
|Thread: Press Button Oilers?|
I have a Faithfull lever-action can - the brass end on the Flexi pipe is about 2.5mm at the tip, and so is small enough to push the ball down and seal against the edges of the hole on the 2.7mm-ish ball oilers on a Warco Major.. all the oil goes "in" and past the ball.. The part no. is FAIOC500;
Very pleased with it, like every lever oilcan I've owned, the pump rod (maybe?) draws a bit up so it's always a bit greasy on the outside, but never wet enough to leave a ring.. ..I'd buy another..
|Thread: Inserted cross slide feed nuts|
..well, if iti helps to provoke discussion, maybe they fitted plain slugs and secured them with a grubscrew, and then spotted the thread-centre through the leadscrew brackets after they were fitted-up, in order to ensure alignment.. ..wouldn't be odd for them to come out a bit off-centre..
If they are pressed in, they'd still have to be positively located by a screw/pin/collar to resist the thrust of the screw causing "creep"..
|Thread: Tangential Tool Holder|
Apologies - I don't know what I was doing when talking about the depth of cut - it was well past my bedtime - somewhere from 0.08 to 0.15 mm reduces the strain on everything, maybe a bit less for finishing..
..light cuts for this gudgeon/piston pin, but the swarf came off deep blue and left a great finish..
|Thread: Myford motor pulley shake.|
..with that kind of gap you may be able to insert slips of shimstock either opposite to (or maybe better), 120 degrees either side of the screw?
..a bit expedient, I know..
|Thread: Tramming Milling Machine|
There's a pretty good description of "how" here, about 13 mins in..
..he uses a similar mill and has some useful things to say..
Edited By DiogenesII on 22/06/2020 07:12:14
|Thread: Tangential Tool Holder|
Following the more-or-less successful trial of the principal, I thought I'd try and find something to cut in a more "real-world" way.
The tool was clamped on the topslide at 45 degrees to the lathe axis to enable facing and turning without having to disturb it - it is very compact, and gives good access to the work for measuring etc. At some point I'll replace the clamp stud with a shouldered one, and can then secure the drilled holder directly to the topslide with just a nut & washer.
The carbide rod was shortened and then ground off-hand with a Dremel "Tile Cutting" diamond wheel (SC545) run at slow speed with the toolbit fitted in the holder to provide a visual guide.
The "Tivoly" brand bit remained in pristine condition at the completion of the job, and also retained it's setting without being pushed down in the holder, so the split clamp may stay just as it is for the present.
I'm happy with the results. I have a good tool that will reduce the need to change & set (my shamefully haphazard collection of brazed carbide & HSS) tools so often, that doesn't need shimming, and in which the hard toolbit is rigidly held just off the front corner of the soon-to-be-bare topslide.
..I have no doubt a little tweaking and refinement here & there will follow, and I'll try some tougher and some softer, material soon and see what it does with that.. more anon..
Thanks for all your help, Niels.
Thanks all for your comments -
Niels, that's a useful observation that I hadn't really considered - I guess I just drilled it halfway up the stock (and then reduced the height, anyway.. maybe I'll add that to the "to do" list.
Howard, I understand your motivation completely - I must admit that I have held on to some bits & pieces for years because I have had a destiny (loosely) planned for them, and it's the most satisfying thing to have exercised brain as well as arm in making something worthwhile. It'll be good to see it..
Paul, thanks for that - you've thought it through better than I did - I kind of pushed the idea to the back of my mind on the basis that I didn't want to abrade the top "reference" surface, and didn't think much further, but your idea makes sense and is feasible.
I'd bought a couple of Dremel diamond cut-off wheels which arrived today and which I used at slow speed to cut the rod into more convenient lengths; using the side also put a perfect flat top onto the bit, so I will see how that goes.
I had great success turning and facing without having to adjust the tool position (which was one of the things I was after) this afternoon, on an iron casting..
I'll post a description and some pics tomorrow..
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