Here is a list of all the postings DiogenesII has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tangential Tool Holder|
Many thanks, both;
Howard - your information is a useful reality check, and confirms my thoughts on the necessary angles - the toolbit is ground at c. 24 degrees and inclined at 12, so I feel some reassurance there. For the current "testing of the principle", I've been using a "clog-heel" type clamp so that I can quickly swing the tool between the necessary orientations required for "turning" and "facing" - I do recall the "inclined-base" version, and will refresh my memory again, thank you for the prompt. I agree regarding the utility of a centre-height gauge, which I already have, and indeed, dovetails neatly into the observations of...
Niels - very canny, the holder will be going under the mill tomorrow and will emerge 2.2mm or so thinner along it's back.. I will not have to fish in oily swarf for the tiny hex key ever again..
Are you able to both side & face with it in one position? .."sharpening" the angle of the nose, without thinning down the clamp "jaws" is becoming the most head-scratchingest part of the job.
I'd like to see more of your build if possible..
Hi, thanks old mart, I hadn't considered making it a double ended, but that's a logical plan for a test bed.. It'll also be convenient 'cos as you can see in the second photo, it was the last end of the bar..
In a recent update to an ongoing thread (Lathe Improvements?), Niels Abildgaard included a photo of a machining setup which featured a short, stubby tangential toolholder which barely overhung the edge of the topslide - The design commended itself to me as a Hobbymat owner, as I've always regarded the standard toolholding provision to be, well, less than perfect, perhaps.. The Hobbymat does not respond well to excessive or uneven loads applied to the surface of the topslide, and the tools must be shimmed to centre height - the opportunity to try and alleviate some of these admittedly minor annoyances and to be able to employ a simple and easily set tool for the most commonly undertaken, facing and turning tasks seemed to be worth an experiment.
The initial results are promising - the holder was relatively simple to make, cuts well (when arranged not to rub - see below) and sits firmly on the topslide without having to apply brutal levels of torque to the clamp. It's currently fitted with a 2mm round HSS toolbit.
The tool as it currently exists is very much a "first-off" and I throw it out here, naked in it's imperfections, for scrutiny or comment by anyone interested.
I'd welcome opinion on whether the 12 degree toolbit angle is in the right ballpark or whether it could usefully be increased to provide more clearance without increasing the risk of weakening the edge - and will I need to change it if I wished to use carbide?
There is a "To Do" list - I clearly need to reduce the height of the upper face/front chamfer to avoid the nose rubbing, reduce the included angle of the nose to provide more side clearance, and experiment with tool-grinding angles to find the optimum balance between cutting angle and edge-strength. And I may move the clamp screw rearward just a little..
Any comments and suggestions will be gratefully received
Edited By DiogenesII on 06/06/2020 19:55:27
|Thread: stuck chuck again|
'pologies if this is teaching granny etc., but I find that even the slightest failing to ensure that the chuck is run completely onto it's seat before starting invariably leads to it sticking..
Has anyone ever used (or considered) a LH-threaded nut on the end of a mandrel inserted through the chuck to hold a spindle whilst loosening a chuck?
|Thread: Slitting saw applications: limited?|
..or clamp to a small angle plate (imagine something like IanT's table mounted vertically on the mill..). ..or even mill up a piece from the scrapbox to make a holding fixture, if it's something you do often.. ..something like a block with a rebate in it, and a finger clamp..
Edited By DiogenesII on 04/06/2020 06:43:36
|Thread: Belt Up|
As mentioned above, one can simply machine opposing shallow tapers - 2 degrees will do it - and blend using a file.
This tracks fine with 6" pulleys at 2850rpm, and the tracking adjustment is capable of putting the edge of the belt exactly on line with the edge of the platen (and keeping it there) if needed. Both of the wheels have a shallow 2 degree crown.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
..sounds like Glandular Fever to me..
|Thread: DIY Electric welder|
Has the potential for a great Class Action, maybe?
(Much as I admire the pioneering spirit of exploration, appreciate the hard work of the poster, and am a grateful recipient of that knowledge... etc.)..
Edited By DiogenesII on 22/05/2020 07:28:32
|Thread: mystery tool|
..holders for (maybe the circular-type) thread form tool?
|Thread: KMyford Hard Rubber Bushes|
..no-one's that keen to rush out and measure those filthy things, then..
The overall width is 5/16", the flange is 3/32" thick. The major diameter across the flange is 1 1/2", stepping down to 1 1/4" for the reduced portion that the slots in the cover ride on.
The bore is approx 1.10" (can it really be 1 & 7/64ths? -seems a ridiculous dimension to choose..), in any case, just make them to be a good push fit onto their spigots, and the reduced part to have a little clearance in the slots so that the bushes stay fixed on the countershaft head and the cover is able to slide up & over them easily..
Welcome to the forum!
|Thread: Lead size for metric bolts.|
Hi Mel. ..all the commonly available threaded rod and fasteners use Metric Coarse Pitch as the standard issue, unless stated to be otherwise;
..M10 will give you 6mm in 4 turns, but getting a convenient number of turns-at-hand-wheel for 8mm spaces from the M8/10/12 coarse sizes might be a pain - if this is important, 1mm pitch Fine thread bar is available in larger diameters as illustrated here (although I'm sure other suppliers also stock it).
..depends on how much handle-turning you find acceptable!
Edited By DiogenesII on 19/05/2020 07:40:20
Edited By DiogenesII on 19/05/2020 07:41:44
|Thread: Sharpening Files|
I have done it, with the aim of removing rust from a job-lot of ancient new and used files - they sat in a quart of vinegar for up to two weeks (checked at intervals).. ..the "new-but-rusty ones cleaned up okay and are good. Those that were new but pitted, worn, or marred in any way weren't any better.
Once the "edge" has gone, any erosion just seems to replicate the profile as is at the time of dunking, or perhaps even to make it worse - I guess it's in the very nature of the process to remove the angularities and thinnest parts first.
Some of the "new" files were a bit pitted and "raggy" here and there, and they are truly awful to use - they "pin" horribly.. they went in the scrap box (suddenly, and with great emphasis) during the last job that involved EN3b..
So no, it didn't work for me, other than to remove rust.
|Thread: Cheese grater strip/band|
..one used get given a bit to roughen the tube with in puncture repair kits..
Er, if anyone does an image search on terms similar to "perforated abrasive strip", please take care which web domains you click on, regardless of the image displayed.. ..it's lucky Mrs Diogenes has a sense of humour.. ..it might be best to omit the word "strip", possibly ..
Edited By DiogenesII on 12/05/2020 21:49:06
|Thread: Myford ML10|
Quite so, NDIY. Apologies...
|Thread: Bandsaw advice|
Jason, sorry to be tiresome, but if you have minute, could you just re-iterate what model you have and what the speeds are?
|Thread: Myford ML10|
..a tapered pin fitted into a blind hole? ..surely the little end must have access for removal, a bush is a service item..
Hopefully a '10 owner will have an answer, if not a photo or even sketch of the parts would be useful, as it's hard for those not familiar with the machine to envisage how the assembly might be arranged..
+1 - ..the quadrant is prevented from rotating by a nut that tightens (against a curved slot cast into the upper front of the banjo) onto a stud that is screwed into the end of the leadscrew bracket above the leadscrew shaft.
The hole for the drive pin in the larger gears is blind, so only present on one side - check the other side of the gear..
The gear should be held in mesh with the pin by a separate collar with a grubscrew..
Edited By DiogenesII on 07/05/2020 18:17:44
Edited By DiogenesII on 07/05/2020 18:19:45
|Thread: Description required|
..maybe governor bobweights & parts from a diesel pump? ..or even a magneto?
|Thread: Lathe improvements?|
The significance of having a line of sight to NY only struck me today (a dull day at work..) - the Dover Strait makes a very narrow window to look through.. Now I see where you are, I understand how Stuyvesant must have got there.. ..not even any turns to make..
I'm always interested in tools that sit firm on a slide with almost no overhang, as everyone should be.. I think I have it figured enough for my own experimentation, for which I thank you again. I'm sure that if you wanted to post further details, others might be interested too, but of course I don't wish to impose on your welding & turning time - mankind is waiting..
Thank you posting the extra tool photo's, Niels - I like that design very much..
You have a new 250? ..with bigger bearing housings?
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