Here is a list of all the postings DiogenesII has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Prazi SD300 lubrication question|
Thanks, yes, that sounds about right, there are two in there, back to back. Since our exchange the other day, I went out to remind myself what it's internal workings looked like.. Mine also contains a shim (like a blank washer), not sure whether an original fitment or fitted by the previous owner to adjust the clearance / belt alignment at some point.
In any case, the assembly hasn't given any trouble in the last twenty-plus years of ownership..
They're a very nice machine - and pretty much everything that needs to serviced or maintained is easy to get at - one thing not to be neglected is cleanliness & oiling of the cross- & top - slide feedcsrew - the threads that receive these are cut directly into the metal of the respective parts and so a little attention paid to keeping these in good order will pay dividends in the later life of the machine.
Edited By DiogenesII on 20/02/2021 17:40:04
|Thread: De Walt 240V Portable Band Saw in UK?|
Edited By DiogenesII on 20/02/2021 17:19:32
|Thread: What about a "like" button on the forum?|
Edited By DiogenesII on 19/02/2021 07:50:40
|Thread: Prazi SD300 lubrication question|
Oh, that lube instruction! ..the little line is pointing to the fork arrangement at the bottom of the bracket that supports the pulley.. ..it slides up and down to control the belt tension - a drop or two of machine oil before use is all it needs..
The one in my Hobbymat is a standard 'sealed-for-life' ball bearing with double metal shields - it doesn't need to be lubed.
..it seems a bit odd that your manual says it must be lubed before every use.. ..have you seen what type of bearing is in there? ..if it's a sealed bearing there's no need..
|Thread: CNC Lathe Scratch Build|
Definitely not - I guess perhaps like many here, my own workshop practice has it's roots firmly in the century-before-last, and due in part to my own laxity, is anchored there at present due to a lack of detailed understanding of modern control systems & construction methods - so to me, this is essential reading - a guided walk through unfamiliar territory, if you like.
I find myself almost embarrassed at my inability to make informed comment other than bland noises of congratulation, so err too much on the side of that piece of advice that states 'It's better to keep silence and have the world think you a fool than open one's mouth and prove it..', I guess.
Threads like this one, and the 'Adventures with a KX' by JB et al are vitally important if the hobby is to have a widespread appeal and future to those burdened with the increasingly limited space and resources of modern living.
Think it's great, please carry on..
|Thread: Winter Gloves ... any recommendations ?|
I (and indeed, Mrs D.) work outside all year round, and having tried just about every hi-tech material known to man, still have never found anything better than good ol' natural wool, as long as one can keep the wind off with some outer layer.
Having poor circulation myself, I find the modern fashion for tight-ish cuffs and sleeves pure murder for slowing circulation - I have been known to take a pocket-knife to brand new workwear, or to make three or four attempts at adjusting the order of 'layers' just to make sure there are no restrictions - an unfortunate crease next to an armpit or suchlike really can mean a day of unnecessary misery..
|Thread: Vfd advice please|
I have a 2" vertical linisher, running @ 2750 over a 6" pulley.. ..um, think that's about 1300m/m? ..it burns wood like a taxpayer-funded power station on double-subsidy, but haven't noticed a problem with steel, I think it depends to a large degree on belt material / spec. and (especially) the avoidance of excessive pressure when cutting - I use it for both grinding HSS toolbits (fine 'blue' zirconia or 'red' ceramic), or rousting-off mild steel for fabricating etc., using coarse Alox..
I think if you have the 3ph motor anyway, variable speed will be handy for mixed workshop 'jobbing'.. ..Noel's right about the particles, I might add that neither would I have mine in the same room as any 'precision' machinery..
..I built it out of scrap - there's some pics in an album..
|Thread: Could I try an IC engine?|
There's several discussions and approaches here that might be useful;
..including a description of Graham Meek's attack on the Seagull cams..
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2021|
|Thread: Clarke / Warco Major Milling machine drawbar self ejector|
..those posts / pictures were revisited more than once during the long 'mulling-over' stage, Old Mart, so an overdue acknowledgement of gratitude to you for them - thank you for putting 'em up.
..The Major spindle nose has lug-slots, and once nipped up the sleeve nut is happy stay put and just gripping the tool and using a short cranked ring spanner like a handle makes for quick tool changing, and of course no more rapping with a hammer..
On the basis that 4 1/2 years late is better than never..
FWIW, a Major with MT..
Decided that a 'ring-immediately-above-the-taper' wasn't going to work for lack of room. Investigating the top of the spindle revealed a recess of convenient dimension to accept 5/8 BSW thread (11tpi) - coarser than I would have liked, but with the reat advantage of being able to be cut in situ without disassembly.
A sleeve nut was bored 10mm, through which was passed the suitably reduced portion of a 12mm drawbar, with a 19mm AF hexagon cross-pinned above to retain it and give a spanner-hold.
Some attempt at concentriicity, squareness and 'fit' are desirable for smooth operation, the spindle bore being long and tight.
It's been fitted for a few weeks and some dozens of tool changes, and has performed faultlessly using a ring spanner c. 150mm long to secure and release the tooling. Nothing has spun and nothing has taken anything harder than my hand to release.
Although at first sight a 1mm land seemed a rather small area with which to eject a morse taper, when circumferential to a 12mm bar it provides a respectable total area that feels both adequate and positive.
It'd be interesting to see if it would hold up for R8 use.
|Thread: Back once again with the idiot questions...|
I think that's a carbide insert you are using in the link..
Could it be that something is rubbing?.. ..Just check that the 'heel' of the tool holder isn't rubbing on the uncut-portion of the work.. if it is, you may be able to raise the tool slightly to get lift the part that's rubbing clear, or it try taking 'wider' (wider towards you) cuts in towards the chuck so that the bottom of the holder is always just clearing the freshly cut face.
Or you could even relieve the offending portion of the t-h with a gentle and carefully-targeted grinding..
..and check that the insert isn't chipped...
I'd be slowing down a bit, too, perhaps 400 to maybe 500 or so if I was uncertain of the material.. If it is just plain hardness that is the trouble, then you might find even lower is better and some kind of oil will help.
Apologies to Bill - if you are using HSS, then use his suggested speeds..
Edited By DiogenesII on 07/02/2021 17:51:01
What speed and shape of tool are you using?
|Thread: Myford ML7 Chucks - Which one?|
I think the numbers are stamped in one of the jaw's slots - there should be a four-figure serial no., and the jaw number er, somewhere close by..
Apropos tightening, I guess I mean, the emphatic one - I don't find there are too many degrees of tightening down with this size chuck - I don't seem to find much movement in the second or third pinions, and I don't insist on finding some - enough pressure to hold the work, but I don't wring it 'til it cries.
Transfer one, once that's drilled & threaded you can bolt it up and do the others using the clearance holes as a guide. Mill accuracy will be perfectly adequate, as you say location is provided by the register.
Once mounted, use a known-good object (shank of a fat, unused end mill?) and DTI to check run-out at the jaws. I have one of those chucks, the original 'set-up' pinion wasn't marked, you will probably find that you get wildly differing results depending which pinion you use to tighten down the work. Mark the one that gives best results.
Once you have done that, rotate the chuck about the mounting holes on the backplate, you may find a particular position will give an improved result.
I think it's a good choice, I wasn't that impressed with the 'feel' when I first had mine, but a bit of 'a wire-brush' deburr & some use, and it's improved markedly, repeatable run-out in the less-than-half-thou to one thou range depending on how fussy one wants to be setting the work.
Occasionally EK10 soft jaws turn up on sale at decent prices - well worth getting a set.
Edited By DiogenesII on 05/02/2021 15:41:57
|Thread: Bronze balls in place of steel balls in a Land Rover|
..the only design fault with the Series steering box was that the adjustment screw and nut were plainly visible from above.. ..and you know what happens to overly-prominent adjustment screws...
- it wasn't unusual to go look at a well-used II or III in the eighties & nineties and find that it only progressed in a series of straight lines, it being a common myth amongst 'experts' everywhere that 'that screw'll take some of the slop out of the steering'.. Good luck with the interior restoration.
|Thread: More Stolen Models|
The last spate round here involved 'prospecting' by drilling spy-holes in the walls/doors of outbuildings, especially those accessible from lanes & footpaths - often discreetly, up high or down low, some of them quite small.
If a mysterious drilled hole unexpectedly appear in your workshop, it's a sign. At least one was given away by the owner noticing a little pile of sawdust on top of his toolbox..
|Thread: Loctite made in China?|
Henkel are a huge global concern with facilities over much of the world.. Probably genuine - if it was arm-and-leg expensive, definitely genuine..
|Thread: Myford spindle rectification or replacement|
+ another for the advice above - the tightness at the last turn makes sense if the damage is at the end of the spindle, it's probably only making it's presence felt as the register tries to seat and pull everything into line..
As noted, it's okay to dress the bruised area down even if you go very slightly below the level of the surrounding metal, a small localised 'dip' won't cause any problems as the untouched thread surfaces will support the chuck regardless.
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