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Member postings for DiogenesII

Here is a list of all the postings DiogenesII has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Vertical boiler
24/10/2021 21:12:16

That's a nice looking piece of work, good proportions, and neat square sockets - I'd be feeling very pleased if I'd turned out those.. yes

 

 

Edited By DiogenesII on 24/10/2021 21:12:46

Thread: Looking for dimensions/Drummond gear change fork
24/10/2021 18:33:17

Chris, if you haven't seen this page, it's worth a look in detail, particularly the photo about 3/4 of the way down whose caption begins 'Instead of a single slot L-shaped...' & which shows a compound reduction train for fine feed, which is likley to take up as much 'banjo-room' as you are likely to need - it's common to put one's largest wheel on the leadscrew, leaving the next largest pair and the next smallest pair to be compounded into two sets to fill the gap between the spindle and that - as the 'top' pair will be on the 'main leg' of your banjo, the length and angle of the lower slot will constrained quite narrowly by the need to mesh these to the leadscrew gear..

It's a rather complicated thing to describe, I hope the pictures help explain it better.. I notice that the ends of the banjo are shown in the picture, you may be able to approximate the lengths and angle by experimenting with cardboard templates or by drawing them up..

Lathes.co.uk - Drummond B-Type Lathe..

23/10/2021 11:16:51

Think this is for the OP's Type B?

Er, Ady, (and others?), do you think the M type (or any other Drmd. fitment) might be the same?

Edited By DiogenesII on 23/10/2021 11:17:39

Edited By DiogenesII on 23/10/2021 11:20:41

Thread: Myford ml7 "parting off"and "max working size"
23/10/2021 10:13:19
Posted by von dutch on 22/10/2021 22:13:06:

I have been considering putting a standard vee belt on I've had to take a lot of links out of the sectional belt and even now I still have to run it tight and it still slips.pretty pants that,any appreciable cut I put on and it slips/stops the chuck.It did have a good review the belt but isn't cutting the mustard me thinks.

Hm. ..just out of interest, what belt are you using? ..do you know what the profile designation is, and what does the problem seem to be, in the sense of, say, too soft, or poorly dimensioned & profiled (where does the belt 'ride' on the pulleys?), or glazed or contaminated? ..are the pulleys worn or glazed?

22/10/2021 18:50:26

It does sound like it could be a belt condition / tension issue.. ..my ML parts 2" steel, maybe not devastatingly, but not unbearably weakly, either, and will take reasonable cuts, say, across a badly marked 7" faceplate without refusing or slipping.. ..it's always felt capable of chewing whatever will fit in it's mouth..

For parting I'd rather go for a 2mm tool rather than a wider section if I can, and for 'difficult' larger facing / turning work I might compromise surface speed in order to 'drop a gear' and take advantage of the extra torque a lower ratio provides instead - tho' it must be said that as far as partng speeds go, it's always chatter that gives the hint to change down rather than any slipping or stalling.

Thread: Red Wing
19/10/2021 16:42:20

yes - I like it too - I struggle with painting, if the weather is warm & dry then there's flies and dust, if there aren't flies & dust then it's too damp and cold..

Thread: Hi Far from new/poorly bench top lathe
18/10/2021 19:22:17

FWIW, there's another incomplete one just turned up on Tony's site now;

Lathes.co.uk - For Sale - Vintage Drummond B-Type...

..hard to see what's there, and what isn't - the photos might be useful for comparison at the very least..

With this age of lathe, owners will have made their own countershaft / motor brackets, or bought a kit, so there probably won't be a 'correct' item, 'period' Drummond and Myford used countershaft assemblies turn up fairly regularly s/hand - there are pictures of some typical set-ups here;

Lathes.co.uk - Myford M Type Counterhafts

..a changewheel banjo (bracket) could always be fabricated from mild steel, more easily so if you can find a pattern....

Thread: Old 1/2" chuck
16/10/2021 21:43:50

..just for interest, that pattern of drill chuck is still made;

Meridyen - Drilling and Cutting

Thread: gr 8.8 ht bolt steel which carbide tip
06/10/2021 16:02:47

I turn HT bolts or srews on an ML7 every so often - using HSS or carbide tooling, I'll happily use either dependant on the requirements of the job, or even what happens to be in the toolpost at the timesmiley..

Hand fed, 5 thou roughing 2 1/2 finishing, top gear Carbide, middle for HSS, this lathe hasn't been used since the weather was hot, everything felt a bit 'dry' and loose..

The tip is used and what was in the tool, likewise the HSS, it did get a quick swipe with a slip.. The bolt looks like a seat-belt anchor..

At various times I've bought single carbide tools and tips from JB Cutting Tools, Arc, APT, Chronos - have a shop around - there's no point 'saving money' on Ebay if what you buy isn't doing the job.. ..life's too short..

img_1.jpg

img_2.jpgimg_3.jpg

img_4.jpg

Thread: Grinding Tool Bits from Cylindrical HSS Blanks
02/10/2021 16:30:24
Posted by William Harvey 1 on 02/10/2021 13:51:13:

...the image below... ...however instead of positive rake (as in the image below) my tool bit will need a negative rake...

In the image above I assume we are looking directly at the end of the tool bit.

Many thanks

Not sure that I understand the need for negative rake - it is an 'aluminium' head? ..surely cutting this will need similar (if not even a little more) positive rake as shown..?

Thread: Clock Stand with a difference
02/10/2021 16:10:40

A Vee block with a perpendicular arm or extension at one end to hold a clock parallel with the column, and an accurately fitting collar around the column, would let you 'tram' the assembly against a reference surface in a similar manner to a mill head, and with a visible means of quantification / comparison..

Thread: Grinding tool bits
02/10/2021 09:55:36

Dave, er, isn't that an illustration of undesirable cutting conditions caused by Build-Up Edge deposits?

Thread: Unimat SL modifications
02/10/2021 08:41:12

Welcome to the forum, David.

That's a very neat set-up - and having had a quick browse of your album, I'd also be very interested to see or hear a bit more about your QCTP - small lathes seem to be enjoying a notable growth in popularity of late, I'm sure there are others who'd also find it of interest..

Thread: Pinnacle PCD 20 mill
21/09/2021 21:11:36

thumbs up

21/09/2021 18:27:39

Is it the same as the 'Grizzly' badged one in this pdf?

https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0705_m.pdf

Thread: Absolute beginner, just bought a cheap lathe
20/09/2021 18:27:13

OOooer.. ..well, a faint ray of hope occurs to me - one of the peculiarities of the Hobbymat is that the topslide and crosslide dovetails share the same dimensions, so a cross slide 'body' will fit on the topslide 'base' - in fact, the topslide body is just a sawn-off cross slide body with different holes drilled in the top of it, and reversed (even the gib-screw holes line up correctly).. ..if you set one on top of the other so that the gib-holes line up you will see what I mean...

Tony Griffiths seems to have some cross-slides, but will charge you...

Lathes.co.uk. Hobbymat Prazimat Topslide Casting...

Heritage Lathes will charge you a bit less for this one from his Ebay shop.. (I've dealt with him, seems a reasonable human being for an Ebay vendor)

Heritage Lathes Ebay Imperial cross slide

..hope the link works.. ..I don't think you need to worry about the Imperial feedscrew, but I guess you might want to check the slide dimensions with him just to be sure..

You'll still have to do some drilling and milling, but I see you have an offer of help..

20/09/2021 08:06:50
Posted by Chris Drew on 19/09/2021 21:06:02:

...I had thought of drilling and tapping the other end of the top slide and just reversing it which I can’t see why it wouldn’t work…

If you do that, it'll put the gib on the 'thrust' side of the slide and the forces of cutting will be concentrated on the points of the adjustment screws that bear on the gib strip..

For the record, here are photos of an ugly repair that had been carried out by a previous owner of mine - the bolts securing the tool holder are M10, which suggests to me that it probably wasn't his first attempt..

FWIW having slept on it, I stand by the Helicoil suggestion..

Topslide

Topslide below

Flange depth

whole bush depth

19/09/2021 21:33:47

Hi Chris,

..if you mean the topslide, I don't think it's unheard of for that to happen - mine had had exactly the same problem when I bought it, the previous owner had driiled through, counterbored the underneath, and fitted flanged bushes with threaded holes to anchor the toolpost.

HOWEVER I might be inclined to fit a Helicoil-type thread repair if I was to do the job - it's simpler and results in a repair that is at least as strong as the original fitment - the thread insert may need to be dressed back with a small grinding wheel (Dremel?) after fitting, as the slide is a bit on the thin side.

I'll post some picks of the repairs to mine in the morning.

They are good little lathes, they have a few quirks but are capable of doing very respectable work - although they are well built, they are susceptible to damage if mistreated - it's definitely worth buying a manual, and having a look through previous threads using the 'search' box at the top of this page..

Thread: Stuart Twin Victoria (Princess Royal) Mill Engine
19/09/2021 09:07:12
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 19/09/2021 07:37:02:

..Is there a tool similar to a scraper that would get rid of machining marks like this? It takes ages with abrasives even though I can’t really feel the marks with a finger nail. What about a Dremel with the sandpaper discs?

I think there's a typo in JB's comment - I think it's meant to say 'File and then emery paper'.. ..decent Swiss files will whip marks like that off in a most satisfying way - I know it's an old cliche, but if you get a set, you will find them out on the bench all the time and wonder how you ever did without them..

The trouble with small discs is that the edges are thinner and cutting faster than the face - if they touch the side of the spigot, it's easy to cause other marks that are even harder to remove.. ..it's also a process that's always on the edge of being uncontrolled, never a good thing for precision work in metal..

Thread: DRO scale Modification
19/09/2021 08:41:09

See this thread

Cutting down a glass DRO encoder..

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