Here is a list of all the postings DiogenesII has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Vertical boiler|
That's a nice looking piece of work, good proportions, and neat square sockets - I'd be feeling very pleased if I'd turned out those..
Edited By DiogenesII on 24/10/2021 21:12:46
|Thread: Looking for dimensions/Drummond gear change fork|
Chris, if you haven't seen this page, it's worth a look in detail, particularly the photo about 3/4 of the way down whose caption begins 'Instead of a single slot L-shaped...' & which shows a compound reduction train for fine feed, which is likley to take up as much 'banjo-room' as you are likely to need - it's common to put one's largest wheel on the leadscrew, leaving the next largest pair and the next smallest pair to be compounded into two sets to fill the gap between the spindle and that - as the 'top' pair will be on the 'main leg' of your banjo, the length and angle of the lower slot will constrained quite narrowly by the need to mesh these to the leadscrew gear..
It's a rather complicated thing to describe, I hope the pictures help explain it better.. I notice that the ends of the banjo are shown in the picture, you may be able to approximate the lengths and angle by experimenting with cardboard templates or by drawing them up..
Think this is for the OP's Type B?
Er, Ady, (and others?), do you think the M type (or any other Drmd. fitment) might be the same?
Edited By DiogenesII on 23/10/2021 11:17:39
Edited By DiogenesII on 23/10/2021 11:20:41
|Thread: Myford ml7 "parting off"and "max working size"|
Hm. ..just out of interest, what belt are you using? ..do you know what the profile designation is, and what does the problem seem to be, in the sense of, say, too soft, or poorly dimensioned & profiled (where does the belt 'ride' on the pulleys?), or glazed or contaminated? ..are the pulleys worn or glazed?
It does sound like it could be a belt condition / tension issue.. ..my ML parts 2" steel, maybe not devastatingly, but not unbearably weakly, either, and will take reasonable cuts, say, across a badly marked 7" faceplate without refusing or slipping.. ..it's always felt capable of chewing whatever will fit in it's mouth..
For parting I'd rather go for a 2mm tool rather than a wider section if I can, and for 'difficult' larger facing / turning work I might compromise surface speed in order to 'drop a gear' and take advantage of the extra torque a lower ratio provides instead - tho' it must be said that as far as partng speeds go, it's always chatter that gives the hint to change down rather than any slipping or stalling.
|Thread: Red Wing|
- I like it too - I struggle with painting, if the weather is warm & dry then there's flies and dust, if there aren't flies & dust then it's too damp and cold..
|Thread: Hi Far from new/poorly bench top lathe|
FWIW, there's another incomplete one just turned up on Tony's site now;
..hard to see what's there, and what isn't - the photos might be useful for comparison at the very least..
With this age of lathe, owners will have made their own countershaft / motor brackets, or bought a kit, so there probably won't be a 'correct' item, 'period' Drummond and Myford used countershaft assemblies turn up fairly regularly s/hand - there are pictures of some typical set-ups here;
..a changewheel banjo (bracket) could always be fabricated from mild steel, more easily so if you can find a pattern....
|Thread: Old 1/2" chuck|
..just for interest, that pattern of drill chuck is still made;
|Thread: gr 8.8 ht bolt steel which carbide tip|
I turn HT bolts or srews on an ML7 every so often - using HSS or carbide tooling, I'll happily use either dependant on the requirements of the job, or even what happens to be in the toolpost at the time..
Hand fed, 5 thou roughing 2 1/2 finishing, top gear Carbide, middle for HSS, this lathe hasn't been used since the weather was hot, everything felt a bit 'dry' and loose..
The tip is used and what was in the tool, likewise the HSS, it did get a quick swipe with a slip.. The bolt looks like a seat-belt anchor..
At various times I've bought single carbide tools and tips from JB Cutting Tools, Arc, APT, Chronos - have a shop around - there's no point 'saving money' on Ebay if what you buy isn't doing the job.. ..life's too short..
|Thread: Grinding Tool Bits from Cylindrical HSS Blanks|
Not sure that I understand the need for negative rake - it is an 'aluminium' head? ..surely cutting this will need similar (if not even a little more) positive rake as shown..?
|Thread: Clock Stand with a difference|
A Vee block with a perpendicular arm or extension at one end to hold a clock parallel with the column, and an accurately fitting collar around the column, would let you 'tram' the assembly against a reference surface in a similar manner to a mill head, and with a visible means of quantification / comparison..
|Thread: Grinding tool bits|
Dave, er, isn't that an illustration of undesirable cutting conditions caused by Build-Up Edge deposits?
|Thread: Unimat SL modifications|
Welcome to the forum, David.
That's a very neat set-up - and having had a quick browse of your album, I'd also be very interested to see or hear a bit more about your QCTP - small lathes seem to be enjoying a notable growth in popularity of late, I'm sure there are others who'd also find it of interest..
|Thread: Pinnacle PCD 20 mill|
Is it the same as the 'Grizzly' badged one in this pdf?
|Thread: Absolute beginner, just bought a cheap lathe|
OOooer.. ..well, a faint ray of hope occurs to me - one of the peculiarities of the Hobbymat is that the topslide and crosslide dovetails share the same dimensions, so a cross slide 'body' will fit on the topslide 'base' - in fact, the topslide body is just a sawn-off cross slide body with different holes drilled in the top of it, and reversed (even the gib-screw holes line up correctly).. ..if you set one on top of the other so that the gib-holes line up you will see what I mean...
Tony Griffiths seems to have some cross-slides, but will charge you...
Heritage Lathes will charge you a bit less for this one from his Ebay shop.. (I've dealt with him, seems a reasonable human being for an Ebay vendor)
..hope the link works.. ..I don't think you need to worry about the Imperial feedscrew, but I guess you might want to check the slide dimensions with him just to be sure..
You'll still have to do some drilling and milling, but I see you have an offer of help..
If you do that, it'll put the gib on the 'thrust' side of the slide and the forces of cutting will be concentrated on the points of the adjustment screws that bear on the gib strip..
For the record, here are photos of an ugly repair that had been carried out by a previous owner of mine - the bolts securing the tool holder are M10, which suggests to me that it probably wasn't his first attempt..
FWIW having slept on it, I stand by the Helicoil suggestion..
..if you mean the topslide, I don't think it's unheard of for that to happen - mine had had exactly the same problem when I bought it, the previous owner had driiled through, counterbored the underneath, and fitted flanged bushes with threaded holes to anchor the toolpost.
HOWEVER I might be inclined to fit a Helicoil-type thread repair if I was to do the job - it's simpler and results in a repair that is at least as strong as the original fitment - the thread insert may need to be dressed back with a small grinding wheel (Dremel?) after fitting, as the slide is a bit on the thin side.
I'll post some picks of the repairs to mine in the morning.
They are good little lathes, they have a few quirks but are capable of doing very respectable work - although they are well built, they are susceptible to damage if mistreated - it's definitely worth buying a manual, and having a look through previous threads using the 'search' box at the top of this page..
|Thread: Stuart Twin Victoria (Princess Royal) Mill Engine|
I think there's a typo in JB's comment - I think it's meant to say 'File and then emery paper'.. ..decent Swiss files will whip marks like that off in a most satisfying way - I know it's an old cliche, but if you get a set, you will find them out on the bench all the time and wonder how you ever did without them..
The trouble with small discs is that the edges are thinner and cutting faster than the face - if they touch the side of the spigot, it's easy to cause other marks that are even harder to remove.. ..it's also a process that's always on the edge of being uncontrolled, never a good thing for precision work in metal..
|Thread: DRO scale Modification|
See this thread
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