Here is a list of all the postings Arthur Goodwin has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Hall effect sensor|
I have purchased an hall effect sensor and display unit from ebay.
The instructions are in chinese and the vendor has been no use at all.
Has any body got a wiring diagram that i could use
|Thread: Stuart victoria|
Thanks for all thetips.
Makes life a lot easier.
The book which came with my kit advocate sweating the mating faces together before machining.
The method outlined seemed a bit hit and miss. I was thinking a better way would be after cleaning and fluxing, to grip lightly in the vice (to keep parts aligned) and solder like that.
My Q. is. Would I get a capillary action of solder with both faces held together.
Thanks in advance
My next project is to be the Stuart Victoria from grey castings.
My current mill a Clarkes CMD10 is nowhere near adequate for this so I am thinking an upgrade is the order of the day.
My budget will run to 700 for the mill and the sieg family look to be good value for money.
Any suggestions tips etc will be appreciated.
|Thread: Trunch Trojan|
Thanks for all your lovely comments.
Have already ordered the kit for my next project.
It will be the Stuart victoria from grey castings.
I know that you guys will help out if I get stuck.
I need to upgrade my miller which is the clarkes cmd 10.
Much too small for the 13 inch bed on the victoria.
Im thinking of a Sieg. Any advice appreciated.
Bob said he had set some challenges inhis design and I can sa that he was not understating.
It took me 12 month + but very rewarding and for myfirst project I am relly pleased with it. It still needs a plinth and painting but that will be a doddle compared.
I have attached a few pics for your perusal.
|Thread: Gland packing|
I am ready now to assemble the piston into the cylinder.
Could you advise on the best way to go about it.
The gland packing i have bought is about 4mm square and my slot is just wide enough for one width and deep enough for one revolutuon.
Is there any way to "stick" it in place.
|Thread: Trunch trojan|
Just pondering on the best way to do the eccentric strap.
Do i bore to size then split and use shims or should i split first and then clamp together with the bolts before boring.
Thanks in advance
|Thread: Eccentric turning|
Thanks guys. Thats a lot of useful info to get my head round.
It is 54 years since I did my one and only eccentric turning as a fifteen year old in the training school.
I am now faced with my second attemp in doing the eccentric sheave for my engine.
My Q is would it be accurate enough to use a 3 jaw with a spacer on one jaw or do I need to use the 4 jaw with all its incumbent setting up.
I have seen vids on you tube and the 3 jaw is certainly much easier.
What do you guys advice.
|Thread: Crank bearing mount|
Thanks for your info , it worked a treat.
Just got one more bearing to make and I am ready for a test build before tackling the offset crank (aargh)
Many thanks Art
Edited By Arthur Goodwin on 20/08/2020 18:02:32
Have made the upper/lower bearing mounts from MS.
I now need to bore/ream to take the bronze bush. My q is, not having a jig borer what is the best way to machine the mating pairs so they are aligned with each other when assembled on their support pillars.
Thanks in advance.
|Thread: Old tool|
Hi all found this in my dads old tool chest.
Its a basic (but well made) angle finder/copier, made by E R Watts and sons of London.
There are no gradations but one interesting feature is what appears to be a "spy hole" at 4 o clock in the picture.
This component is knurled and unscrews I presume to clean the lense.
Anybody got any
info on this?
Edited By JasonB on 02/06/2020 20:28:36
Hi all found this in my dads old tool box.
Its a basic but very well made angle finder/copier. Made by E R Watts and sons London
There are no gradations at all but what is intrigueing about it iswhat appears to be a "spy hole" (4.0 clock in picture) that ges all the way through. This component is knurled and unscrews I presume to clean the lense.
Anybody got any ideas on this.
|Thread: Trunch Trojan|
Meant to say, why not do that and do away with counter bore.
Not got round to assembling the cylinder as Ineeded to prrpare the base for it.
This is were I hit a problem. The base measures 7.5 X 3.5 inches, when I mounted it to my face plate and centrslised for the counter bore, the throw was 6.5 inches and fouled the bed. My lathe is a 5 inch denford.
The only way forward was to saw off 1.5 inch.
Now looking at this with hindsight (a grrat thing) what i should have done was make the steam chest cover the same diameter as the S C and use the same bolt circle to fasten them both dowm see pics.
Thanks for your answer.
When you say proper gasket paper, what thickness ate we talking about.
Been making good use of the lockdown to crack on with my engine (every Cloud.......)
Now at the stage where I am ready to do a test build of the cylnder and its constituent parts.
It is made up of 6 seperate components all 2.25 diameter (or thereabouts)
What I would like to know is, what is the preferred gasket material for a steam cylinder and what thickness should I be looking to use.
I have scanned other forums and the variety spans from using a dollar bill to brown paper and oil
I will be including some pictures on my next post of the parts and completeed cylinder,
|Thread: Rabone machine level|
Thank you guys
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