By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Chris TickTock

Here is a list of all the postings Chris TickTock has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Hardening Silver steel Cutter
22/03/2020 16:48:54
Posted by Mick B1 on 22/03/2020 14:10:14:

I made the little cutter in the foreground about a year ago from 8mm silver steel, to cut a recess for a breeching-rope ring in the cascabel of the carronade.

Having just looked up what cascabel and carronade mean I can say it looks fine to me.


22/03/2020 12:41:11
Posted by Bob Stevenson on 22/03/2020 12:37:17:

Yes,...although it has to be a fierce flame, it's better to heat generally and wait until the cutting edge/tip is red then there can be no flame damage. If you watch gas welders they always take care where they put the flame, but theirs is a very fierce flame...

Thanks Bob, the next thing I need to buy are a few soft fire bricks to make a heat trap which will help retain the heat.


22/03/2020 12:34:26

Going back to heating to cherry red it has been suggested if I stuck the flame on the weakest end part of the cutter is there a risk it would be damaged?


22/03/2020 12:32:06

For clock pivots;'s quite common to see beginning clock repaiers/makers snap off their pivots be accident ......for this reason it's better to only harden the very ends of the pivot sides...if the main part of the arbour remains softer there is less chance of the pivot snapping off.

Edited By Bob Stevenson on 22/03/2020 10:56:21

Thanks Bob duly noted


Thread: Using EZELAP sharpeners
22/03/2020 12:28:31

Thanks guys as always different opinions and experiences.

Anyone care to define honing as when I look it up it says bending back the old edge as opposed to removing material to create a new one in sharpening. The diamond disks are abrasive so seems a tad confusing.


Thread: Hardening Silver steel Cutter
22/03/2020 10:14:59


Now my knowledge to date with regard to hardening a piece of silver steel after machining it comes down to heating it to cherry red then quenching in water or brine. The object I wish to harden is a 1/4 inch square silver steel clock wheel cutter, this one will be used to cut brass but other may be used to cut pinions in harder steel.

Issues; I have come across a post referring to the risk of burning off finer parts of the cutter when heating and that you should bring the temperature up in a more staged process.

has anyone got any recommendations as to a good attack plan. I have a Smith little torch with oxygen and propane as well as various hand torches if needed.

i intend tempering after but wounder what temperature is best for this cutter.. I usually use a toaster oven for tempering but am in the process of making a PID controlled enclosed unit that may or maynot tiurn out to be useful.


Edited By Chris TickTock on 22/03/2020 10:15:16

Thread: Using EZELAP sharpeners
22/03/2020 09:23:35

i bought a few months back a couple of the small 4 inch EZELAP diamond sharpeners the ones that come fixed to a wooden block. I have looked online as to whether I should use oil or water or nothing but as yet cannot find anything though one clip had a can of sewing machine oil beside the sharpener.

So anyone know if it is a good thing to use a liquid and if so any recommendations. my main use will be to sharpen small 1/4 inch cutters for the lathe and mill.


Thread: Ideas to best hold blanks with out turning
21/03/2020 21:56:49
Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 21/03/2020 21:08:54:

I'm not a clock-maker but treating this purely as metal-working, would it be worth making the washer - which can be of almost any reasonably rigid plastic or metal - to dedendum diameter as John Haine suggests, but dishing it slightly so the pressure is applied close to the cut?

Thanks Nigel, an interesting and worthy idea


21/03/2020 17:17:18
Posted by Bob Stevenson on 21/03/2020 16:27:40:

Amazing some of the stuff on this site!.......personally, I use hardboard for backing wheel blanks and always cut at least two together then select the best looking one....

Thanks Bob, Hardboard comes in the right sort of thickness and is cheap enough so will grab a bit next time I dare enter B&Q.


Thread: CCutters Edges and their purposes
21/03/2020 16:55:24

Hi, I have just made my first clock wheel gear cutter to be used on my Sherline mill.

Having made it I think I know what some edges are for cuttercloseup.jpgwhat but I am unsure can anyone help clarify why this cutter should be made this way.

What I think is the flat edge is the cutting edge and it is this one when i have hardened the silver steel that i should sharpen?

as the cutter will be rotating the angles on the tip of about 10 degrees are to guide the cut material ??

the bottom edge of this 1/4 square cutter has a 15 degree angle, I think the purpose of this is just to reduce the hieght of the cutter to stop it fowling as it rotates?/

the only other question is I have some EZELAP sharpening blocks which are fine for flat surfaces but what about the curved surfaces?


Thread: Ideas to best hold blanks with out turning
21/03/2020 16:15:08
Posted by larry phelan 1 on 21/03/2020 09:24:34:

I agree with Tick TOCK. When it comes to asking stupid questions, I am in the Top Ten. I do it all the time, why ? simply because I don't know the answer, therefore I don't regard it as stupid. Maybe others do, but most Members don't and are only too happy to enlighten me. Don't be afraid to ask, it,s the only to find out.

I don't make clocks so I cannot help in this case but I still learn something from such Posts.

Appreciated Larry..well put


Thread: Does Silver Steel normally look like this?
20/03/2020 18:15:06
Posted by ega on 20/03/2020 13:39:41:
Posted by Mark Easingwood on 20/03/2020 12:34:32:

I always thought the 13 inch / 330mm supplied lengths was because that is 1 metre cut into 3 pieces, less cutting allowance.

KR Whiston...........let the cat out!

Sounds right - and as though it was cut with Occam's Razor!

I am going with the 1metre in 3 idea, but i will be looking at the end in future.

thanks for all posts


20/03/2020 09:24:03
Posted by old Al on 19/03/2020 18:05:00:

does the end of the bar have a cut or ground finnish?

i take it by cut you mean flame but which would be rougher than an angle grinder or saw. Mine look cut with a grinder or saw. I can't see them flame cutting then grinding so will assume safe to use entire length.


19/03/2020 17:45:39

I am prepared to accept the suppliers word that the bars are old stock and are silver steel. What interests me is an old post stated that the reason the bars are sold in 13 inch lengths is because the ends are hardened during cutting so they give you an extra 1/2 inch each end?

So on face value if cut by saw sounds improbable but if cut with a torch ??

Anyone got an opinion


Thread: Ideas to best hold blanks with out turning
19/03/2020 16:51:54


Whilst waiting for my delrin 9plastic0 to arrive I got bored and tried making the backer from wood.

Results ply not easily machined as breaks off but mdf worked a treat. If only used in small amounts I think acceptable (dust). chris


Thread: Does Silver Steel normally look like this?
19/03/2020 11:26:30
Posted by Thor on 19/03/2020 11:13:10:
Posted by Chris TickTock on 19/03/2020 11:00:22:

Just had it confirmed they are silver steel and apparently old Stubbs Stock...whatever that means.


Edited By Chris TickTock on 19/03/2020 11:00:38

Stubs used to make silver steel, seems the trademark is now owned by this company, more background info here.


Edited By Thor on 19/03/2020 11:14:52

Thanks useful links to info on Stubbs


19/03/2020 11:09:03
Posted by Clive Brown 1 on 19/03/2020 11:03:49:

I bought 1/4" sq. silver steel years ago for lathe tools to make my "Quorn". Looked like BDMS but turned a tough steel casting for the work-head just fine..Incidentally, IMHO, silver steel is much under-rated for making special purpose cutting tools.

Thanks Clive, nice to hear you say that as I hope to make a clock tooth cutter from it.


19/03/2020 11:00:22

Just had it confirmed they are silver steel and apparently old Stubbs Stock...whatever that means.


Edited By Chris TickTock on 19/03/2020 11:00:38

19/03/2020 10:48:04


I have just received 2 bars of 1/4 inch square silver steel. The previous silver steel I have bought has been from other suppliers and has been shiny and new looking. this looks more like mild steel. Being inexperienced I thought I would ask you guys whether it is usual for silver steel to look like this before chasing up the supplier.

Chrissilver steel.jpg

Edited By Chris TickTock on 19/03/2020 10:48:26

Thread: Drilling small holes in hardend steel
19/03/2020 10:08:26
Posted by JasonB on 19/03/2020 09:31:25:

Lets cool it down on both sides

If you don't like Chris's questions then simply don't answer or make comments and if Chris does not like the replies he can choose to use the ignor button.

He is not the only one who regularly quotes wrongly but the only one that people are picking up on.

Edited By JasonB on 19/03/2020 09:33:12

Thank you Jason

That's all i ask for


Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Eccentric July 5 2018
Allendale Electronics
Eccentric Engineering
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest