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Member postings for Chris TickTock

Here is a list of all the postings Chris TickTock has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Hole for Morse Taper
09/08/2020 14:26:52
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 09/08/2020 12:13:38:
Posted by JasonB on 09/08/2020 10:12:40:


Just use them ...




Yes indeed, just ordered a reduced draw bolt needed. Had to brush up on collets supplied by Sherline. Sherline collets come in 2 basic types. For the lathe made to WW spec and use an adapter which sits inside the MT1. For the mill these are different and just pull up inside the MT1 directly.


09/08/2020 09:22:42
Posted by JasonB on 08/08/2020 19:46:41:

These may be easier with the added spindle nose thread thrown in.

Funny enough Jason I got these last week, not yet investigated...might be the time to do so.


09/08/2020 09:19:59

Thank you to all for posting, I have loads of info to progress this now from your posts.


08/08/2020 19:00:54
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 08/08/2020 18:32:37:

Like a giant Pin Vice? (Example from RDG holds up to 3mm)


Embarrassing to miss the obvious..good idea Dave. Maybe the collet would hold the stock better though. All i need to do is to drill a 7.9mm hole with a chamfer at the start and the bolt will tighten all up well. I will however play with the pin vice, might save some work.



08/08/2020 18:38:43
Posted by JasonB on 08/08/2020 18:07:57:

Chris just to be sure are you asking about the Sherline collet adaptor for 8mm or WW type collets or an 8mm MT1 collet

Edited By JasonB on 08/08/2020 18:15:00

Yes my fault, sorry these are Sherline WW and not 8mm watchmakers spec.

I refer you to:

The collets fit inside a plastic adapter and a bolt tightens everything up. However the point I think is that the plastic adapter goes into the MT1. I will go and measure the shanks on the lathe collets to see if they are straight or tapered. They may be straight? I will get back to you.


The collet shanks are indeed  straight and it is the metal (notplastic) adpter which fits in the MT1. The torque from the bolt holds the collet steady. the lathe Sherline WW collets measure at 7.9mm across their shank.



Edited By Chris TickTock on 08/08/2020 18:48:28

Edited By Chris TickTock on 08/08/2020 18:48:41

08/08/2020 18:03:52
Posted by JasonB on 08/08/2020 17:53:28:

Does it really need to be 5" long? If you cut it in half it would make subsequent machining a lot easier and also more practical in use when holding your collet block vertically. Also what is the A/F of your hex stock?

Jason, 5 inches is a rough guide . my initial uses are to hold steady on a bench sander in my hands the hex aluminium holding the collet holding the pivot wire I wish to form edges on my bench tool for either drilling or reeming. Difficult if under a couple of inches and I need ideally to use a bolt to tighten the collet on the stock so I guess a min 3.5 inches. Collets are expensive so starting point is full length of a collet which are 1.5 inches but i suspect the taper will need to be held in a parallel adapter inside the hex aluminium.


08/08/2020 17:41:40

Hi, I wish to hold a 8mm collet in a piece of hex aluminium bar, 5 inches long for indexing purposes. The collet has a morse #1 taper how do I go about it, any ideas?


Thread: Tapered Square metal punch anyone?
08/08/2020 14:24:50
Posted by roy entwistle on 08/08/2020 11:02:15:

Make your own smiley


Your right Roy but just checking first. Doesnt need to be too fancy as will onlu use it on aluminium and brass.


Edited By Chris TickTock on 08/08/2020 14:25:56

08/08/2020 10:26:31

Hi, it might be useful to have a tapered square metal punch of small dimensions say starting at 1/8 inch and increasing there of. Any ideas as to their availability?


Thread: Drill Press Wobble on Chuck
03/08/2020 16:43:55

A wobbly drill press is a curse. I need a drill press for larger diameter stuff and my cheap old thing is what you would expect. It was fine drilling 1/2 inch holes when I fabricated a cage for my German Shepherd but little use drilling bearings as entry and exit holes will be different (let's leave reamers out of this for now).

Some drill presses can be adjusted others not so i thought I would ask you guys if you know of such a drill press that is both affordable and usable for fairly precise work. I do have a small jewelers drill cost £50, I modified the speed with another pulley and it has no wobble. So it may be possible on a larger machine?


Edited By Chris TickTock on 03/08/2020 16:44:26

Thread: Can a small lathe handle a tail stock die holder?
02/08/2020 18:07:11
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 02/08/2020 16:08:41:
Posted by Chris TickTock on 02/08/2020 08:44:00:

2:Never cut under power

3:Use Cutting medium

As blanket rules both of the above statements are incorrect. I do a lot of tapping under power on both the lathe and mill at up to 1000rpm depending upon the size of tap. Although I screwcut many external threads I cut some under power with dies, admittedly often with a Coventry diehead, but also using normal split dies. Similarly I tend to use flood coolant on the lathes, but not the mill as it gets sprayed everywhere.



I agree that the rules are not universal but just what I thought wise to take on board. Larger lathes and with a sliding die as opposed to my sliding tail stock (a very poor second) would allow power to be used much more safely. As things are at the moment with the Sherline i considered it safer to go the none powered route. but thanks for pointing this out you are right of course.


02/08/2020 14:13:17
Posted by Bazyle on 02/08/2020 12:31:01:

Examine your die under magnification. Check it actually has cutting edges. Lots of cheap ones come with free extra metal (burrs) on the cutting edges so you need to do some Dremel grinding in the three holes. If you do not have a split die get an abrasive cutting disc and have at it it is virtually useless as is so nothing to lose.

Thanks bazyle, like the idea of splitting one. This one was though


02/08/2020 14:11:39
Posted by JA on 02/08/2020 12:55:38:

I am unable to cut a 3/8”BSF thread using a good split die in a good die holder mounted in the tail stock by hand. Full stop. I use a mandrill with a handle having a large swing - I just do not have the strength and I am a big person.

If I want to cut such a thread, and I will be doing so in the next few days, I turn a thread and use the die to finish it off.


Funny you should say that I am still really strong so that's 2 of us you say its too much of an ask as i attempted it.


02/08/2020 08:44:00

Thanks Guys:

Points I picked up from which I will add to my notes;

from Bob; 1:matching stock and die

2:Never cut under power

3:Use Cutting medium

from Jason 4: the pitch of the 3/8 thread was probably too much to allow the torque on the lathe

from Hopper 5:Turn stock 5 thou under size

(Your right my post was contradictory as I did not fully understand if I should use power)

from Mick B! 6: I was guilty of pressing in a die that was too tight into its holder

So all in all your posts confirm most of what I suspected and have been a great help.

Thanks to all for posting


01/08/2020 22:14:58

I have a die holder that holds 25mm dies. If a rod is held in the chuck on the headstock with a suitable champher it may be possible to make a thread at the correct angle.

That's more or less the extent of my knowledge as I tried to cut a 3/8 thread with the die in the tail stock chuck and the tail stock allowed to travel along its table when pulled as it cuts a thread. The metal I used was mild steel. What I found was by turning the headstock chuck carrying the stock iby hand via a bar it was nigh on impossible to cut a thread.

Question: Is the Sherline not powerful enough for such uses or is it an other issue. I suspect aluminium or brass might have been possible and smaller threads would yield better results.

Am I asking too much of my little Sherline?

I subsequently cut the thread by hand and it looks fine but was not easy even by hand.


Edited By Chris TickTock on 01/08/2020 22:16:16

Thread: Lathe turning speed in relation to different metals
01/08/2020 17:58:52
Posted by larry phelan 1 on 01/08/2020 16:36:17:

Chris Tick Tock,

I hope you did not think I was being smart or rude with my reply, this was not my intention.

The reason I mentioned Sparey,s book is because, like you, I had little or no idea regarding cutting speeds/materials ect, but this book explains it all in plain terms. If it is now out of print, more,s the pity, since it,s a goldmine of information for beginners [like me ] No doubt there are many other good book available, I just never felt the need to look any further than this one since it seems to cover almost everything.

No doubt others here will advise you on the subject but the speeds given by Sparey are ;

Stainless Steel 50ft per min

Carbon Steel 60

Cast Iron,, Mild Steel Wrought Iron 80 ft per min

Brass 200

Aluminium and its Alloys 300.

To calculate revs Cutting speed divided by quarter of work diameter= r-p-m

Sorry if I sounded like a Smart-Arse, that is far from the case, I can assure you !sad

No problem, thanks for the post.


01/08/2020 13:06:13
Posted by Emgee on 01/08/2020 11:30:09:
Posted by john halfpenny on 01/08/2020 10:42:02:

Mr Wheeler, I thought it was incisive and excellent advice-but it disappeared.

I also thought it was good advice although very much straight to the point, a very similar comment has been made but not in such a direct manner.


Agreed, a little diplomacy often helps.


01/08/2020 11:01:16

Than you for those that answered sensibly which was at a basic level the stock materials yield and strength have most to do with book suggested speeds.

I see nothing wrong with asking what others may take as obvious or just get on with it type of questions. The marriage of handed down knowledge with hands on suck and see experience is likely to produce superior results to just having a go.

I am a man in the shed in no rush to go any where. Those who like being rude or have a propensity to be intolerant on this forum may be impressing a certain type whilst alienating another.


31/07/2020 19:36:07

Hi Guys,

Currently I am going back to machining fundamentals.

Reason: If you don't have a grasp of these you are ill prepared.

So OK you are told different speeds for a given diameter of say mild steel, silver steel, brass or aluminium.

But can any one explain why it is advised to go at a given speed for a harder / softer metal.


Thread: Cutting Edges on Metal lathe Cutters
29/07/2020 21:11:13
Posted by pgk pgk on 29/07/2020 20:45:44:

In the geometry of the tool being held below the possible cutting edges are the side, the angled front and the corner between. The actual edges used to cut are between those faces and the top. However you really only need to sharpen the side and front and corner reliefs since that slicks up those edges with perhaps a little stoning of the top face to remove burs.


Wonderful video..thanks


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