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Member postings for Chris TickTock

Here is a list of all the postings Chris TickTock has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Drilling small holes in hardend steel
16/02/2020 22:27:32


Trying to drill into old clock steel from the 18th century has not proved easy. Even cobalt failed.

I was trying to drill a 1.5 or 2mm hole but only got into the metal about 1/16th of an inch...any ideas?


Thread: Fixing Eye bolt to old Lead longcase weight
27/01/2020 15:14:45

Just to add if I want to age the replacement hiik a mixture oh hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar and salt will do a grand job.


27/01/2020 14:39:19

hookreplaced.jpgnailfrom weight.jpgOK I decided to do something about the nail as it looked awful and possibly dangerous. This is not a top class clock by any means but there are limits. note nail pulled out easily, there was nothing left sheered in the centre so i got lucky. I drilled a 10mm hole to put a nut on so hope is at least safer.


Edited By Chris TickTock on 27/01/2020 14:39:53

Edited By Chris TickTock on 27/01/2020 14:40:25

27/01/2020 10:13:46
Posted by Nimble on 26/01/2020 18:29:29:

Hi Chris,

How about using a oxy -acetylene torch or (a propane torch, I have not not got one so don't know if you would be able to get a small enough pool of molten lead) and create a molten puddle in the centre top, and with a pair of pliers pull the nail out you could then insert your eye bolt into the molten puddle an allow to cool, or just allow to cool drill and tap as necessary.

Regards, Neil

Thanks Neil, I think lead would likely go all over the place with too hot a flame however with propane might do it. Removing the nail is the easier bit could even snip off flush, punch down and loose with lead but the issue is what will stick with lead. if epoxy will do it then 2 holes and barbed steel bent into a loop will give a far better look.

As for absolute original restoration on all clocks...absolutely not.smiley


26/01/2020 16:28:21
Posted by Bazyle on 26/01/2020 16:00:09:
Posted by old mart on 26/01/2020 14:41:54:

Casting new weights using the old ones for the lead would be the best of all solutions

Why not give the case a coat of nice while gloss paint while you are at it, and replace any tatty bits with mdf. surprise

Already done that.smiley


26/01/2020 16:28:20
Posted by Bazyle on 26/01/2020 16:00:09:
Posted by old mart on 26/01/2020 14:41:54:

Casting new weights using the old ones for the lead would be the best of all solutions

Why not give the case a coat of nice while gloss paint while you are at it, and replace any tatty bits with mdf. surprise

Already done that.smiley


26/01/2020 15:03:07

But what about sealing and aging?


26/01/2020 14:18:42
Posted by Roger Hart on 26/01/2020 11:11:46:

TBH this looks a job that is not worth going, leave it alone, the nail 'shows a bit of age'.

Not that easy to drill down with a hollow drill. Even it the drill does not snap off you are still left with how to get the core out. Very unlikely to drop out.

So unless this thing is a Tompion or a Knibb, leave it alone.


Thanks Roger and every poster. No the clock is a poor example of crasftsmanship or a good example of bad. The advise is leave it alone and yes i think I will here.

Having said that just for arguments sake I was told to rectify the issue and I could not source one that would do I could easily enough cast one. But anyone know how to seal and age it to look like the other?

Not sure on the law on this as lead as we now know is toxic so is it permissible to cast a replacement for a customer?

Duncan's idea takes my 1st Prize for solutions.



Edited By Chris TickTock on 26/01/2020 14:38:19

Thread: Opinion on using blue Loctite (thread locker) on clocks?
26/01/2020 11:54:46

Thanks for all the posts on this question. Yes the clock forum like this one has a spectrum of views which is always a good thing to listen to and if I don't agree with some views I see no merit in showing disrespect for no other reason than its not necessary and achieves little.

We all have our views, as a relative green horn but hopefully an intelligent person when when given advice  Iweight it up, I have met bricklayers who have spent 21 years laying bricks but still couldn't do it well.

. In this case my take is Loctite is perfectly OK but which Loctite depends upon the specific application and circumstance.

I asked the question to see if there were strong arguments against such uses. Red / green cylindrical bonding Loctite is to my mind totally acceptable for joining pivots etc. Blue / purple were of interest mainly.

What is thrown out as advice is the argument I've never done it or would never do it it and no credible reason given. Loctite again dependent upon which one we are talking about and which use we may wish to put it may be seen as a tool and / or material to achieve a particular purpose. As always there may well be alternatives but surely it is up to the person making the repair to decide in the light of his judgement reflecting on all known facts.



Edited By Chris TickTock on 26/01/2020 11:55:36

Thread: Fixing Eye bolt to old Lead longcase weight
26/01/2020 10:32:29
Posted by JasonB on 26/01/2020 10:09:22:

Are you sure the original is an eye bolt and not just a bent wire that was cast in probably with some sort of bend at the other end so it would not pull out.

The simple tubular saw suggested would be easy going in lead then just bend up some steel to match an remelt the lead you took out and pour into the hole to set the replacement hook.

not sure eye hook is original but that is the target to match to. will look at all posts later and comment and many thanks to everyone.


26/01/2020 09:06:48

hi guys photos to help see the issue. Remnant of previously probably sheered eye bolt is the issue as it makes drilling difficult but no real alternative other than leave alone which goes against the grain with me if something is reasonably doable.



25/01/2020 21:24:34

Hi, I have a longcase lead weight which arrived with the eye to hold it to the clock replaced with a steel nail. The nail is a little off centre.It has held suspended for years so is probably safe but an eye sore. The obvious difficult is one might expect the original eye sheered off and will tend to make drilling tricky.

As the weights match and are 18th century if I were to attempt a repair any suggestions.


Thread: Opinion on using blue Loctite (thread locker) on clocks?
24/01/2020 16:52:03
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 24/01/2020 16:34:55:

I'd use clear nail varnish, as it can be dissolved easily and teh loads are relatively tiny.


Thanks Neil, I read a post stating acetone which can also remove nail varnish also removes blue Loctite. Note on my clock forum some do use Loctite...a case of being pragmatic perhaps...others protest...what's new there.


24/01/2020 15:36:37

Hi, clocks especially old clocks over tightening can be a real issue. Therefore is the use of Loctite on threads acceptable and if so would blue be your choice?


Thread: Can we have a really clear distinction between Silver Soldering and Brazing
21/01/2020 09:48:17
Posted by IanT on 20/01/2020 22:45:06:

This site explains the difference fairly well I think Chris...



Great help, especially this link, recommend it to all. Thanks everyone for the posts


20/01/2020 21:51:31

Hi, I have looked at some old posts on this forum and on the web to define the difference between brazing and silver soldering but I don't quite get it.

If it was me I would say the two processes are the same in that you make a joint by heating the metal to be joined and a filler metal joins the metal. In soldering there must be overlap or a very small gap and the solder flows into this. With brazing the gap can be larger and the filler metal also flows around the joint area making for a stronger joint.

Feel free to add, subtract amend?


Thread: Silver Soldering Brass
20/01/2020 21:07:54

Thanks Guys for the posts,

Having read your posts I feel confident I have made the right choice in oxy / propane. Still obviously lots to learn. One puzzle is why is silver solder sold in rods of varying thickness if it can only fill gaps 1 to 10 thou in silver soldering?

Also todate hadn't thought of a heath....something smallish any suggestions?

All equipment now on order short of solder & flux.


19/01/2020 15:21:07
Posted by Bill Phinn on 19/01/2020 14:48:44:

Chris, this is the regulator I usually use with my Little Torch. You can buy a similar/identical regulator elsewhere, e.g. at the Welder's Warehouse, with different branding. A gauged 0-1 bar propane regulator would be preferable to a 0-4 for accuracy's sake, but I don't think such a thing exists. For your purposes, a 0-4 bar oxygen regulator would be infinitely preferable to a 0-10 bar if you go the oxygen cylinder route.

If you opt for propane as your fuel (I would) and a cylinder, not an oxycon, for oxygen you will need appropriate flashback arrestors. No flashback arrestor is needed for the oxygen line if you use an oxycon.

Follow the recommended pressure settings for each tip in the manual. The rosebud tip considerably ups your firepower, and so is a very useful addition you might want to consider.

Edited By Bill Phinn on 19/01/2020 14:49:34

Really appreciate post Bill.


19/01/2020 13:56:47
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 18/01/2020 23:00:22:
Posted by Chris TickTock on 18/01/2020 16:01:20:
[…] don't understand how pressure is maintained, is that a property of the cylinder being compressed if so surely it diminishes at some point?


You might like this video,Chris

Excellent graphics, and scrolling subtitles : **LINK**



Edit: Just found the Owners Manual for the little torch:


... and a detailed brochure:


Edited By Michael Gilligan on 18/01/2020 23:19:59

Thanks Michael useful links

I note in the smiths little Torch manual it states 'when using natural gas a minimum of 1 pound pressure is required'. What is meant by 'natural gas'?


18/01/2020 22:07:42
Posted by fizzy on 18/01/2020 20:56:06:

Ive never met anyone using a generator for brazing, not saying there aent any, but I have seen them used on youtube. With an average flow rate of about 2 litres per minute (five max) at ambient pressureyou would not be able to burn with a decent flame for anything but the smallest of jobs. Fine for very small work but dont even think about using it on a boiler anything bigger than a mamod. Given that you can easily get the same and a lot more heat out of a b&q £20 prop torch the cost would be very prohibitive...But, for super fine/fiddly jobs you would have a lot more heat control and accuracy so it does have a place in some workshops.


Hi Fizzy,

When I first come across people advocating a oxy con I thought what a good idea. oxygen in a cylinder is around 99%. Howevever oxygen in a oxy con is nearer 90%. This effects the flame stability and temperature. Therefore i agree with you and have reverted to theidea of using a cylinder. Also as an occasional user the cost of maintenance of a oxy con as it inevitabely needs maintenance / replacement is not more attractive than the reliability of a cylinder.

I note Fizzy you are an advocate for oxygen / propane so any tips greatly appreciated.


Edited By Chris TickTock on 18/01/2020 22:17:51

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