Here is a list of all the postings Graham Williams 12 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Help with gearbox oil|
Thanks for all the advice and the supplier links. I started to look at the difference between ISO 68 hydraulic oil and ISO 68 gear oil. I must admit I have been thinking ISO 68 is a hydraulic oil. I gather it is more of a viscosity grading system. I ended up on a lubricant manufacturer’s website. A young lady adviser asked if I needed help. I asked her wether it was okay to use hydraulic oil in a lathe gearbox. She stated hydraulic...oil is for hydraulic’s and gear oil is for gearboxes!
Armed with this new knowledge I had a rethink!
As far as I can tell the ISO 32 I already bought will be okay for the auto oiler on the Gate mill, so will use that for that purpose and possibly the lathe headstock. I bought 20 litres of ISO 68 locally this morning which I will use for the lathe gearboxes and will have plenty to flush the sludge from the gearboxes first (there was plenty of sludge in the apron gearbox).
Thanks for the links to suppliers of smaller quantities but needed to buy locally as holding up the lathe rebuild.
I was encouraged to see your industrial machine specified ISO 68 hydraulic oil Andrew. In the Grizzly Lathe manual it just says ISO 68 oil so I am not sure wether they are referring to hydraulic oil?
Thanks again to all who took the time to reply, great help as always.
Thanks guys, I will confidently use the ISO 32 oil I bought today. Thanks Bazyle for a whole new perspective on lubrication, and sorry for asking the same old question. You obviously know abit about it, for someone who doesn’t the hard thing is knowing what is important and what’s not - such as the lead screw as you say. Easy to get too hung up on it though 😊
Graham Williams 11, thanks for the supplier recommend. Does that mean there are 12 of us Graham Williams’s on this forum?
I need some help deciding which oil to use in my Warco GH1330 which I was hoping to buy locally.
After some quick research I came to the conclusion I needed ISO 32 hydraulic oil for the gearbox(es)? and ISO 68 for the apron.
It is mainly the apron I am concerned with right now as I have it stripped down for a rebuild. I could only buy ISO 68 in a 25l drum which was too expensive. I bought 5l of ISO 32.
Whilst trying to decide wether I could use the ISO 32 in the apron I chanced upon the nearest equivalent manual - the Grizzly G9036 (1340). I was surprised that this manual recommends ISO 68 for Headstock, Gearbox and Apron.
I know ISO 32 is quite a thin runny oil and ISO 68 is more like treacle. Is it because America has a warmer climate perhaps?
Or should I wait until Friday and buy some at the ME exhibition Warwick?
Your thoughts please
Edited By Graham Williams 12 on 14/10/2019 19:43:51
|Thread: Hi all|
yes, I can see the attraction in that... and 856 yards is a loooong way. Certainly get plenty of exercise doing that as well! Interesting that the crossbow distance is less! Congratulations on your titles.
i shot compound in the Oxfordshire team and for two local clubs. In a lot of the competitions I entered at that time (it’s going back a few years now) I came second most of the time, as I shot in the same club as the British compound champion at that time!
Any projects in the pipeline apart from the archery?
Brian, out of interest what bows do you make? I have an interest as I used to shoot compound bow competitively
Edited By Graham Williams 12 on 13/10/2019 13:44:44
I agree with most of your post, but you are missing the point I was trying to make.
I am in no way saying youngsters are idiots. The female apprentice was academically very bright and was very upset when she didn't get a highly commended in one of her subjects at college. Same with the young graduate.
I bet most people on this forum grew up as I did with tools in their hands. Most of my early Christmas presents as a kid were having a workshop in the garden and tools. We all made things we wanted and pulled things apart to see how they worked etc.
All my six grandchildren spend most of their time in virtual worlds on play stations. They all attend school. When I help them with homework they are always trying to remember the answer to a problem rather than being able to visualise that problem and work it out. Do you see what I mean?
Back in my day we did ONC's and HND's etc and you got a practical grounding as well as theoretical. Thats my point. You had an appreciation of both disciplines - you had some balance. I have come to the conclusion - rightly or wrongly and Im happy to be corrected - that children are taught 'parrot fashion' with the sole objective of passing exams. There is not so much emphasis on being encouraged to think... I believe this is what the OP - who is a teacher - is referring to.
I,m not laughing at the guy who can't saw, I'm lamenting the fact he never had the opportunity.
I'm not laughing at my apprentice, who couldn't solve a problem because she hadn't been taught it! I'm lamenting the attitude she left school with.
Practical skills will be lost if we are not careful.
From an early age I made Radio controlled aircraft. There was just as much satisfaction in the building as the flying.
Now almost everyone who comes into the hobby buys ARTF (Almost ready to fly - it's all built for you in the Far East.)
How many young engineers are there on this forum?
As far as myself valuing craft skills over academic (or vice versa), I have been lucky enough to have a foot in both camps over my career. But I don't even want to get into a discussion of 'blue collar versus white collar' work, and the way those two groups are treated differently, even now, in this country! All skills are equally important too any company - a fact too often overlooked and stems from attitudes developed a long time ago.
Dave, I hope I have clarified my post and apologies to Brian for jumping on his introduction.
|Thread: Resistance Soldering question|
Hi Patrice, beautiful work!
I may be way out of line here and this may be a total no no in your book, but does it have to be welded or soldered at all?
If I was looking at this problem and analysing what it has to do - in terms of strength etc. - I would drill some small holes in the correct position and use Loctite Bearing Retainer (high strength). That would never move even if you wanted it to (unless you apply quite a bit of heat).
Or alternatively, drill small fixing holes and tin the small copper part as others have suggested (soft solder?), plug into holes and gently heat the large part till flow.
|Thread: Hi all|
welcome to the forum - I am a relatively new member myself.
Your intro is very philosophical! but I think I understand what you are saying regarding our younger generation. At the last employment I had, I looked after an engineering apprentice in our small development workshop. Solving problems was a daily challenge. I tried to get our apprentice to think for herself rather than being told what to do. One day there was a problem with the CNC mill, so I said "right Amber, what do you think is going wrong here?" She replied "I don't know, I haven't been taught that yet!" This seemed to sum up the problem with modern education right there in that statement - to me any way. I replied "I haven't been taught that yet either! Your education has given you a foundation but you have to learn to THINK and use logic and deduction to solve problems yourself, otherwise you will always limit yourself to what you have been taught".
I also had a young graduate engineer with a degree in aeronautical engineering....he was employed alongside me as a Design Engineer. One day we had a need to go into the workshop to quickly knock up a prototype. I gave him a handsaw and asked him to cut some lengths of wood. He got hold of the saw awkwardly and asked "how do you use this?" To all those of you who think I am joking, please believe me when I say, I wish I was!!
I for one would like to hear about your craft development at the hands of a true master....its funny because I don't remember your name and I normally remember the names of those who studied under me.....only kidding :-0, tell us your story please...
Edited By Graham Williams 12 on 12/10/2019 23:17:10
|Thread: Aldi Metal Bandsaw|
That’s good to know Mick,
mine arrived a couple of days ago, but I’ve been so busy finishing the workshop I haven’t even had a chance to open the box yet!
Was that 1.25” rod using it in horizontal mode, or 1.25” bms plate in vertical mode? (I like the adaptation you have done to use it vertically).
Edited By Graham Williams 12 on 04/10/2019 21:01:27
Let us know how you get on Henry. Delivery on my order said 3-5 working days...
you had me worried for awhile!
seems to be a fairly standard size for portable bandsaws, I think the ones I found were for the similar Milwaukee machine. I think the guarantee is 3 years. Apparently you can set this up vertically with abit of modifying, which is mainly what I want it for - hopefully roughing out parts from 10mm aluminium tooling plate to go on the mill.
Edited By Graham Williams 12 on 27/09/2019 00:42:23
about £25 for pack of 3
Thanks for pointing this out Ray. With the positive experience of Pat I have ordered one of these. I recently borrowed some large pruning loppers from my elderly mother bought from Aldi for a very good price and they were excellent, so am well aware their things can be better than the price suggests.
|Thread: Size of groove for O rings|
I have done lots of research over the years for both work and for air rifle design - as you have found information does vary.
My understanding is that both the groove width and the groove depth are important. Obviously you need some compression on the ring to seal. I also always use the James Walker guide - downloadable as a .pdf document.
This gives you a tolerance for groove depth. I would stay within this tolerance to achieve adequate squeeze - just err towards one end of tolerance or the other, depending on wether low friction or a good high pressure seal is more important to you. Also if the groove is within a piston you should take the tolerance of the cylinder it is running in into account, again to make sure you achieve the necessary squeeze. (Andrew has provided the necessary numbers above).
The groove width is important. As Neil says the groove should be wide enough to allow the ring to expand sideways, but most importantly, there must be clearance, after the ring has been squashed and expanded sideways. The air must act on the entire cross sectional area of the ring to make a seal - it seals by virtue of the fact that (because of the initial squeeze) there is always more force acting radially. If the groove is not wide enough (so the ring is also being squeezed against the groove sidewalls) you can imagine that as pressure builds it can't act on the sidewall face of the o ring and therefore will tend to compress it radially inwards, thereby letting pressure slip past the ring, hope that makes sense?
You will note in the James Walker information that only certain sizes of o ring are recommended for dynamic applications (marked with an Asterix in their tables). I am pretty sure this is because you don't want the ring to roll in the groove....
Edited By Graham Williams 12 on 09/08/2019 22:35:57
Edited By Graham Williams 12 on 09/08/2019 22:48:42
|Thread: V-Twin 100cc Design & Build|
Very nice parts Craig.....
|Thread: Chester 836 Milling Machine|
I’m in Oxfordshire, approximately between Woodstock and Chipping Norton,
what part of the country do yo hale from?
Thanks...and I think the addition of a Z axis feed would be a great addition...my old shoulder might need one of those as well
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