Here is a list of all the postings Chris V has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Stirling Engine Fan|
Ok Progress! (-: Thanks again to all so far, especially Hopper for going into detail, as a novice engineer spelling it out to me is what I needed!
This morning I set it at TDC & 3 o'clock and off it went...backwards. Re-set at 9 o'clock it ran forwards for maybe 5 mins...happy as a happy person can be (me, not the fan). I tinkered with the positioning and got a second run of similar time. Then I could not get it going again. Even though there seemed to be a decent flame still I tried putting more meths in and then I got a good run of maybe 15 mins, then it stopped. After lunch I will try with the remaining fuel, if it doesn't start I will refill the burner in case its fuel hungry.
Ok its now after lunch and restarted it ran for 15mins, so it wasn't low on fuel. Inside the vented body there is a funnel which you can adjust up and down, as it was at its lowest I raised it but could not get it to run. So lowered it again and topped up the Meths and it ran for about 45mins.
Seems quite temperamental!
More photos as requested, I took a video but don’t see how I can upload it??
Two more questions, the hexagonal bar horizontal to the power cylinder, any ideas what that is?
As mentioned one of the bronze bearings was out of alignment, when I removed the clamping plate that secures it (does that part have a name?) I noticed that whilst it has an oiling hole cast into it there is no corresponding hole through the bronze bearing.
To my mind there should be, otherwise the oil will mostly only travel down to the outside of the bronze bearing bush, not to the crank. If I should drill the bronze bearings what sort of size hole please?
Thank you Mark, Hopper, Jason & NDIYet, thats most helpful, I will try again today and get back to you.
Hava great day
This afternoon I have been trying to sort out an Indian made Stirling engine fan. When it arrived it was clear there were issues and so far I have sorted the main (?) one which was a bronze bearing was out of place causing binding. Its now pretty free running, I am aware Stirling engines in general can be quite sensitive in this regard. However the engine is not yet running. The flywheel is attached to the crankshaft by a socket grub-screw through its rim but there is no indication as to where on the crankshafts circumference it should be secured. I have photographs showing the crank is in the uppermost position and the flywheel, which I have tried at various points, so I could really do with some advise as to how to align the engine parts in question as this affects the piston position.
I should add that at one point it felt like it wanted to run but did not quite, but backwards. Any help would be much appreciated.
|Thread: Recommended Lathe speed?|
Good morning, Just an update after all the helpful tips earlier about lathe speed/finish on my brass turnings with the Turnado. Speed has remained the same (waiting on a new belt) but larger radius tools sorted my issue out.
I finished the batch of cone finial turnings and just made the pair of handles shown below for my tapping tool.
I was very surprised though that the finish on leaded steel was much better off the tool than on brass.
I think an Acorn nut is next, baby steps!
Thanks once again and stay safe.
Thanks very much one and all, its great to have several options to try.
Don't worry not done it yet, I was only thinking of raising the speed to what seems to be the max recommended 800 RPM...I do respect my lathes vintage!
ega, I'm just thankful that the chips from the Turnado are just that, turning brass on my faster wood lathe produces splinters that are a real pain in every sense!
|Thread: Eclipse 180 instrument vice|
Hi James, there,s one for sale on eBay right now with a decent photo that might help.
|Thread: Recommended Lathe speed?|
Thank you George & Dave, Dave do you mean I need to increase the motor pulley size rather than reduce it?
Thank you for your prompt responses guys, that confirms my suspicions as a novice.
Currently my top spindle speed is 675 RPM, my lathe being a 1930's ML1.
Clearly I'm not going to be able to run my lathe with adjustments to anything like that, so I should expect slow cutting progress and rough finish? (that's what I got)
Simplest way to increase speed I think will be to reduce the motor pulley size, something else for my to do list!
Could I ask please what others would recommend as the most suitable speed for turning the brass as in the photo below. Its 1" long x 3/4" dia stock turned down to 1/4" as the small end. (The sample in the photo had to be finished with file & abrasive to get it to look that nice)
Tool bit is 1/4" HSS.
Many thanks in advance
|Thread: Eccentric's "Turnado"|
Thanks Andrew, I think I understand that. Ive just started setting it up to try copy turning which I will get on with this week. Once that's done I will turn a centring pin and have a go at ball turning and see how I go.
Much appreciate your help!
Oh brilliant thank you so much Andrew!
So you align your vertical pin with the tail stock centre. Then measure between your pin tip and the tool tip for the required radius, adjusting as necessary the sliding shoe screwed to the base of the tool holder right?
Good morning and hope everyone's doing ok.
Just read this thread as I'm just setting up mine, particularly interested in Andrew Moyes post (I've send you a PM Andrew) regarding an alignment tool I quote... I also turned up a vertical pin to fit in the holes in the bedplate. That enables the tool to be aligned with the centreline of the lathe when ball turning and allows the tool to be set to the radius of the ball.
Sounds like that's just what I need but I'm not proficient enough to figure it out myself...help please anyone?
|Thread: Powder coating|
We had two radiators at different times powder coated and both are flaking paint off, never again!
|Thread: Copper Plating|
Thank you S.O.D.
Yes I can see that (£and am grateful for all the advice from everyone even with some of it conflicting! (-:
Thank you Jouke & Joseph.
Ive looked over both links, the first rather went over my head but I'm picking tips up all the time.
My new container will have 7 ltrs of de-ionised water to take both the parts I'm wanting to plate together. Power will be a choice of 1x AA battery or 2x AA. There will be more space between the items and the annode.
Ive yet to figure out how much crystals I should add to start off with?
Thanks Howard, yes my plan is to link 2 together,
|Thread: Fitting Chuck Jaws|
Hi Bandersnatch, sorry no my last post was incorrect, I was talking about my 3 jaw self centring chuck. One jaw fitted easily the other two not so much.
My last post was indeed confused! If you re read it & substitute the 4 for position 2 hopefully you will get what I meant, not that it was important, just recognising that part of my question was a bit daft!
Thanks Howard, yes setting one up properly is something Ive yet to tackle. With not as much time as I'd like it seems the way forward is to learn these new (to me) ways of working as and when I need them. Not ideal but needs must!
Thank you all, I'm almost glad I had the problem now, Ive picked up so many useful tips.
BTW it did occur to me after I had made my request that if the manufacturer have gone to the effort of supplying two sets of jaws and had bothered to number them they why would he have numbered say no 3 jaw if its correct position was slot 4! Doh!
Anyway I got the jaws in today, seems to have been localised rust.
Thank you all again,
|Thread: Copper Plating|
Thanks Tim, more good tips and yes i'm going to try next with 2 x 1.5v batteries.
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