Here is a list of all the postings Chris V has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Taper Pins|
Brilliant, many thanks to all, I recon I know about 90% more on the subject now from reading this thread compared with last night!
Blimey those taper pin drill bits are pricey! Still when time is money they would make sense.
Don't suppose I need to worry about the difference in taper between metric & imperial, but will certainly aim to obtain one or the other.
I saw some taper pins on eBay described as clock makers tapered pins, they looked to be good value compared with elsewhere, anyone know if these are different to regular tapered pins?
Or put another way, where do others buy their pins??
Thank you not done it yet. Do you finish the pin flush or raised and rounded, or is that personal preference?
Ah thanks for that, I didn't know about tapered drills.
Presume on larger sizes it would be plain drill, tapered drill and then tapered ream?
As I wait for parts to get my Drummond M up and running I was admiring the taper pin method of joining ball handle to screw on the top slide. I looked up previous posts and watched a delightful online clip from the 1940's, but that showed fitting of large size pins.
Looking to have a go with something small say 1/8" diameter I now know metric and imperial tapers are different, and you can buy tapered reamers.
Question is do you drill the smaller end hole and ream the rest?
Are clockmakers tapered pins different?
Any and all tips gratefully received on methods and best places to buy?
|Thread: Drummond/Myford M Type|
Thank you for your PM Diogenes11, sent you one back as I cannot find what you are referring too.
Is there a way of searching for a members posts of this forum?
Thank you Lee, that's good to know! (-:
Facinating Geoff, thank you. I think I'm right in that you posted a couple of catalogues in another link last night for someone else, thank you from me too, most interesting!
Thanks for this Hopper. I'm sure you are right about the belts, for now though as the bearings seem to be set fine I will keep to a jointed belt to save dismantling. As a beginner Ive also found the belt being able to slip not such a bad thing!
Ah ok, I do have steel handles though I'd have preferred the horn ones myself.
Were the Tumble Reverse and Thread Dial indicators optional extras, I don't have either.
Thank you Geoff, yes I saw that but the top rest is not original sadly.
That's interesting about what you say re Myford improvements, what were they?
Yes I will post pics in due course.
Thanks Steve, well yes & no. My lathe is pretty much unmolested and original which is what I wanted. My aim will be to keep it that way and therefore I'd much prefer an original arm, failing that a cast copy and failing that..... what had you in mind?
Just looking at another thread that mentioned Owl Castings, so if not a bench top countershaft handle to keep
maybe I could borrow one to get a casting from....just a thought!
Good Morning Hopper, and thank you for that.
Actually and I understand unusually mine has flat belt drive, but I'm used to that and so quite happy.
Yes I've joined those groups but thanks as I hadn't thought to ask on the Facebook one.
Have a great day & stay safe!
|Thread: Drummond/Myford M Type|
|Thread: Strange WW1 Chuck - 1MT|
Strange but it appears its for holding normal ie round drill bits. Westcotts Little Giant Improved Chuck was available in varies sizes and is shown in the Drummond literiture I had from Tony at Lathes.co uk under drill chucks.
Aparently there was a Pratt Improved design as well that was very similar. 1MT would fit my lathe! (-:
|Thread: Stirling Engine Fan|
Ah ok thanks Jason, another good tip! (-:
Thank you Hopper & Silly Old D, that's most helpful. Must be good to have those memories of Burma!
Ok no video! Thanks for explaining it though!
Washers, I may have some fibre ones.That said the proposed knobs to replace the current screws will still be brass so even with a washer the heat will come through the bolt part, but at least it will prevent the casing being marked.
Ah White paraffin, thank you that sounds like a great tip, I will try that when I can get some. I can remember going down the hardware store with a container to be refilled with that, though I think Pink or Blue, and yes that stank.
And yes I will try tweaking the timing once I have the correct fuel, thank you for explaining this in detail.
Funny thing about these fans, wife & I were at a steam rally last spring and we came across one, on a stand in a field. Wife loved it and said (no doubt thinking it would never happen) we should get one of those. It appealed to her as it wasn't a hit & miss making all that racket (music to us). Little did she know I had on saved in eBay searches....(-:
Thank you Hopper, I took a look to check this morning at the hex part and although it appears to be screwed in place it doesn't want to move by finger pressure alone so I will leave it as is at least for now. It may well be a plug as suggested but seems to me odd that its so large, and the shape does not suggest to me its a knob as such for adjusting.It continues to the other centre cylinder as far as I can see, but as I say appears to be a separate part ie screwed to the rest of it.
Yes this is a reproduction 'Josts' patent fan, (German) cheaply made in India though not so cheap to buy off eBay.Its a fair approximation of the originals which were made exactly for the purpose you mention. When electricity came it killed the idea off right away.
John yes I took a look at your link, those are modern versions made for wood stoves and as Jason points out they don't have their own heat source. I'm sure they work well and are ideal for wood stoves.
This mornings questions:
Is there an alternative easily available in the UK to Meths to power it, ie one that dosent give off so much fumes?
Is there a rubber (or alternative) that I can get or make washers from for the sliding side screws to adjust the internal funnel that will withstand heat?
How do I add a link to here with a video?
Well not that odd! And don't forget the fumes from the burner too! Before the final run of the day I had opened the workshop door to let the mass for fumes out, then couldnt get the engine to run. Then thought I'd try shutting the door...and it started right away!
Yes hoping it will run itself in, before the fumes do me in that is!
Thanks Not done it yet & Dave,......My understanding is sintered bronze(?)/ oilite is oil impregnated bronze, so no need to drill through, but still add oil which will seep through the bearings to lubricate the shaft?
Yes its quite the statement at 26" tall. I'm in no rush to remove the 'plug', though the bright metal parts appear to my eyes to be nickle plated and I'd prefer them un-plated, so have considered taking it apart to do this....but as you say now its running albeit temperamentally....
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