Here is a list of all the postings Chris V has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Method of joining for chuck key?|
Thanks Mick B1,
Yes all good & valid points, though the chucks I 'need' them for are drill chucks that will mostly be used in the tailstock.
Regarding wear, is SAE 660 bronze more difficult to turn than CZ121 brass? And is it generally a harder material, ie likely to dent less????
Or for that matter the tapered parts and soft solder, though I'd personally prefer a cross pin, not that Ive tried that before!
Thanks Nigel B, casting the brass onto the shaft seems like that could well have been the way this key was made, I like it, but won't try that at home!
I had in my mind dismissed a brass cross pin as not strong enough but as several of you seem to think that would be ok I think that would be my preferred method. Of course a steel cross pin could look nice too, matching the top of the shaft, but clearly that's not how this particular example was made.
Should the cross pin also be tapered, I don't suppose you can buy imperial brass taper pins..or can you?
Hmm well that might work ok but for something of obvious quality I would expect something more certain to secure.
Similarly I suppose the end of the shaft could be peined into a countersink and then finished off flush, but again I thin there must be a better engineers solution?
Thanks Martin, I meant to add that was my thought first but I see no evidence of a pin...
I have been admiring this chuck key and as I need a couple thought it would make a nice project sometime. Thinking about joining the steel stem to the brass handle I had thought of turning and reaming tapers but seeing the small end at the top of the handle I think from my limited knowledge this would not be particularly efficient at griping, the taper being too steep.
Bearing in mind its a key so needs to be secure how do you suggest they might have fixed it originally?
|Thread: EN1A or EN8 which is best for hot bending?|
Thanks to all three of you.
Ok EN1A and I will thread it first. I did think of doing that initially but I am concerned when I put it in the vice hot to bend it will get marked/deformed. I guess I could make a split pinch block so at least I'm cramping with a round former, and maybe something similar for the free end to save marking that.
What the photos don't show is the threads have both been shortened and as I will be using a flat belt, possibly leather I want all the adjustment I can get to take up the stretch. Plus the other end of each where the holes are are not long enough to go through the castings and allow washer & split pin. Neither the turn-buckle, countershaft nor lever arm came with the lathe which explains why they don't quite fit. Had it not been for these reasons yes I would only be replacing one and yes the RH threaded one! (I found out why earlier today...££!)
Good aesthetics, yes of course! (-:
As I need to make them longer...
Good evening all,
I need to make a couple of tight 90 degree bends in 3/8" round steel bar.
Heat source to warm it up will have to be all I have, a couple of butane/propane mix gas lamps from the DIY store.
Out of the two, EN1A or EN8 which would be best to use, or is there nothing to speak of in it?
The parts are replacements for a turnbuckle tensioning device for bench countershaft. One end of each will be threaded, probably after bending.
Edited By Chris V on 24/05/2020 17:16:33
|Thread: Stirling Engine Fan|
Thank you for your replies. The burner was designed for Kerosene which I understand is the same as Paraffin.
I mistakenly first tried the engine with Meths which smoked & smelled, and did not give out as much heat as Paraffin that I have been advised will do. Further advise was to get white Paraffin as this is the cleanest burning, but as mentioned not going out limits what one can obtain, so mail ordered from the description I have supposedly got clean burning 'lamp' oil.
The retailer has got back to me and suggested the wick may be exposed too much,.... with no mechanism for adjusting that I had not thought about that!
I will try trimming the wick tomorrow to see if that helps.
Well an update on this is now due. After the last fuel tips as we could not go out I ordered some paraffin off the internet, this never arrived. The company I ordered from are apparently so busy they have disconnected the phone lines, and they don't respond to email. So that's why the delay in updating. Eventually I got fed up and ordered some off eBay which is apparently smokeless & odorless, with good feedback on the oil. It dosen't actually say on the bottle it is Paraffin, I should say that. But sold specifically for indoor oil lamps. As the Meths I was using was in the burner & wick I left the caps off for a couple of days so it no longer smelt, the idea being it would have evaporated by the time the new fuel arrived.
So today I fueled the burner and lit it with the new stuff, boy does it smoke! Much worse than Meths...
So finally my question is do you think the new fuel is combining with residue Meths to create the smoke, or is this most unlikely in which case the new fuel is no good?
|Thread: cross slide dept stop|
Thank you Nigel Graham 2 & Clive, yes that's clearer now in my mind!
Hi Clive, what book is the GHT design in please?
|Thread: Drummond/Myford M Type|
Drummond/Myford M Type original parts sought.
Good afternoon all. I have come to realise I'm missing the original 4 way tool post conical packer and ball handle. Whilst I'm very keen to mainly use the Norman toolpost holder I'm aiming to keep the lathe as complete and original as possible. Whilst I'm at it also a Vee pulley block for the headstock, which I understand is identical to the one on the countershaft.
Its another long shot but if anyone has these parts that they are willing to part with I would be very interested?
|Thread: Taper Pins|
So there's two in the club, my memberships still pending!
Hope to join you in that special club sometime before too long !
Thanks for your input hope it was tapered 😊
Brilliant that's really fascinating. I was really after a Drummond badged one but seems like I got closer than I thought.
This one was only a mile away from home and had been there for the last 40 or so years.
Thank you very much for the info! Oh yes sent you a PM too.
Thanks Howard, is that what the pair of locknuts are for on mine?
Yes Tracy tools & GLR I have found to be excellent.
In answer to why I admire the taper pin method, it is the same as why I now have the M, I love the look and build quality of old machinery. I asked a chap on Instagram whose work I greatly admire about how he fixes his turned handles to their threaded stems, his reply was just screw it in tight, or use super glue if you like. Well yes that would work and be FAR simpler than a taper pin, but wheres the satisfaction in that!? I'd rather learn a little of the old ways I admire than lots of quick fixes. That said I have no engineering training so as and when I have a go at taper pins and possibly mess up...who knows super glue may look more attractive! (-:
No plans to remove anything on my lathe right now, once I gather bits for the counter shaft it seems a better idea to see if it all works ok!
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