Here is a list of all the postings Chris V has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Index backplate on which chuck?|
Ok this is all great, thank you all.
24 holes was the only option available ready made & I'm glad to hear its a generally approved of number if divisions.
Yes Nigel, long cap screws through the front and yes I had also thought of the taps & drill breaking. In due course I will fit it to the 4 jaw and as has been suggested might use it to modify other backplates if necessary.
I'm also glad to learn I'm not the only one who uses marker pens to help me, that and masking tape!
One downside with this backplate is it has a register already turned, and guess what its too small a diameter to suit my chucks. But when I bought it i did not know it was there, so my intention is to turn the existing away, turn a larger diameter recess & bolt a new register in place, then trim to size to get it running true. Its more work but still a lot less than starting from scratch with an iron casting.
ega, when the time comes I will look at detents, and thats an interesting thought about removable dividing rings!,
Plenty of food for thought.
Ok off to play with my nuts now, brass dome heads, I think I have to start again )-:
Thank you all, I was leaning towards the 4" 4-jaw but have trouble making decisions especially as I'm inexperienced.
Typically the 4 jaw chuck fixing screw centres will mean the screw holes in the back plate will come through the back plate half in the main large flat area and half in the outer portion of the threaded section, which would look really messy. The 4" backplate is new and thick, is it acceptable to have the bolts come through the chuck and thread 1/2" deep into the backplate, ie in stopped holes?
ega, There are 24 holes in the backplate, no idea as yet what to pick up with, I figured I'd cross that bridge when I come to it. I was just pleasantly surprised to find a ready made index backplate to fit the Myford M type thread, so went ahead and bought it.
I have an ER32, 4 jaw independent & 3 jaw s/c chucks all needing 100mm backplates.
(I also have Square & Hex ER32 collet blocks)
I have three ready threaded backplates one of which has index holes around the rim.
Question is which chuck would be most useful going forward to have the index backplate please?
|Thread: Best places to buy metal for machining|
I have always used by preference GLR, always been happy!
|Thread: Simple(?) Milling Question|
Ok great, thanks very much all, I will give it a go!
Thank you, yes I'll likely go for wood in this instance.
Next question having just looked on Arc's website:
My draw bar is 3/8" Whitworth. For my Mill I have both 6mm & 1/4" Myford type collets that fit into the 2MT spindle.
I could buy a 1/4" cutter and fit it directly into the Myford collet in the spindle, so minimum projection which I do know is what I should aim for.
Or, I could buy a Weldon cutter holder for 1/4" cutter with 3/8" draw bar thread.
OR, should I get the 6mm cutter and fit it in the Myford Collet, and NOT use a Weldon as these only come with
10mm draw bar thread?
Oh yes, hadn't thought of that!
Being a past woodworker...what about hardwood such as oak?
Thank you Jason, guess I best look at parallels too then (-:
Thank you Duncan, no the slot end can be round and it would look better for it I think, as yet undecided.
So you suggest like chain drilling, but maybe overlapping each hole, then cleaning up with a skim as you suggest?
Thanks Martin, yes I'm aware of this as for work I have used a wood router many times. That's not to say I fully understand it so shall certainly read the link you sent!
If my metal stock is held horizontal will I be better off with the end I'm cutting overhanging the end of the vice so I can cut right through, or support on parallels within the vice.
I'm thinking if its hanging out the side of the vice the thin sides may spread when cutting resulting in an uneven width slot,
Likewise if fully supported within the vice maybe the jaws could push the thin sides inwards?
That said I'm leaning towards having it fully supported but very greatfull to hear from those with experience!
Brilliant as always, thank you Martin Ive printed out the speed chart.
Thanks so much Jason, I will take a look at what Arc have to offer!
Thank you yes drilling the hole first is a good point.
I don't think I have the head room, but if I did have would the suggestion be that I advance the job upwards and outwards between cuts? That dosen't seem right but I'm asking as I don't know, or is it that a light weight mill will be more rigid cutting it that way?
Also HSS ok?
Ok thank you, so a S&F cutter it seems is a no go on a light weight machine.
My lengths of steel will be approx 6" long so I cannot cut the slot with the material held vertically.
So if I hold it in my milling vice with say 5/8" hanging out the end should I try to cut the full depth ie 9/16" feeding slowly to make full use of the cutter, or multiple cuts each one a little deeper?
Or in other words, I think Emgee has just nailed the answer for me!
Thank you all!
I have an Amolco mill but not undertaken any milling as yet. I have been reading Jasons articles on Milling for Beginners from which I have learnt a lot, so thank you for that.
I would like to make some hand knurling tool holders for some 1/4" wide rope knurling wheels I have.
I think the material will be 14mm square mild steel, and partly turned. At the business end I will need an open end slot, 1/4" wide x 1/2" long.
Drilling a hole through and cutting the rest away with 2 cuts of a slitting saw I think may well result in a less than perfect slot.
I could use a slot drill if I can find one 1/4" wide.
Or as I was initially thinking a 1/4" horizontal side & face cutter in an arbour.
Which would be your recommended method please, and HSS ok or do I need to look for carbide tipped?
Many thanks in advance,
|Thread: Method of joining for chuck key?|
(-: Yes! thanks so much!
Thanks Gary, wish I had those drawing skills, if you had posted the side on image I'd have used it scaled as my pattern! (-:
Oh yes that's a thought Ive read about using two keys on a 4 jaw, Oh and presuming that's at least 4" dia that's way more torque than on my little drill chucks, so that's great to know,
Thanks Garry, yes that covers all bases for me. When you drew that did you made a side on drawing first?
Steel for the shaft?
GLR offer EN1A, EN8, EN24T & EN1A.
The square section that's to fit the chuck is to be 1/4". So the shaft maybe 3/8"-1/2" dia.
I have an Amolco Mill.
I'd rather not have to harden it, so reading up on it EN8 would be what i'm inclined to go for, but I really don't have enough experience to have a strong opinion, so any input most welcome!?
Regarding Loctite 270. Does this go off as quickly as the stuff bought in the local post office etc?
Thanks for the explanation Rob, Ive learnt a lot from this thread.
Yes Garry I like it, so for me its a toss up between cross pin or thread & rivet the end.
Do you think it likely the peened end would show when finished an irregular circle due to the thread?
Thank you, no, how would that be achieved then?
Thanks Mick, Ok I will stick with brass, good to know phosphor bronze PB102 is the darker of the two bronzes though, and bronze being a fair bit more costly too.
Ah yes I had seen and wondered what clock makers tapered pins were, I think they use them to secure the pillars to the plates like an engineer might use a cotter pin, only more refined!
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