Here is a list of all the postings Chris V has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford M Type tailstock alignment|
Hi Mark, thanks for this but its the Ali (Aluminium) one I found this morning. If it were steel I'd go for it but seems way too much to me for Ali. Also found a steel one on eBay but its from India, so that's another no go, once bitten and all that.
Looks like I may have to have a go at making one, or maybe a set utilising a fixed steady to hold the free end for centre drilling. I'm thinking a spot drill will be better for the actual drilled depression rather than a centre drill.
I'm in Somerset. Are you offering? (-: If so yes please and let me know how much....
Thanks Bazyle, yes good point, I have some light sewing machine oil I can use.
Thanks Roy, the rule trick is how I found out it was out of line! Compound magnifying glass is already on order (-: plus another for spare for when I cannot find the compound one!
|Thread: The Engineers Emporium Henry (Heinric) Stirling Engine|
Since last year I have been considering one of these but cannot find much info on them, based on a Heinric design, has anyone built one?
|Thread: Myford M Type tailstock alignment|
Hi again David, I just realised you didn't actually say don't use the tailstock, I just assumed!
Thanks David, good to know about the Verdict one, I shall take a closer look at getting that set up. I don't know as yet about the chuck, once I got the lathe running the one thing I noticed was the tailstock being out so was concentrating on that. With the method you just describe how much metal protruding from the chuck would you suggest given no tailstock is being employed?
I was just re acquainting myself with L H Sparey's The Amateurs Lathe and see the method I suggested using a fixed steady above is described in the text, so I must have remembered that! Also a method without using a test dial but a sharp tool in the toolpost and a sheet of white paper to aid seeing whats what,...this could be more my level right now! (-:
For checking the dia of a turned piece, is a micrometer (which I have not got) the correct tool or a digital Vernier caliper?
Thank you yes I have found plenty of these but I'm after a longer one around 12". Have found one in Ali this morning but I shall not be buying that, must be a steel one somewhere?!
Good morning David & Howard,
So attached are my two second hand indicators, the larger one is a bit sticky but if the plunger is part depressed then actually it seems ok. The Verdict one has a different tip?
Howard, thank you something like this was in the back of my mind. Its the small bore size creating the issue in my head at least, you would think there is a market for between centres test bars especially for those with smaller lathes but I cannot locate one online?? I was wondering if to make one if I got a larger dia ground bar say 1" or so, one end in the 3 or 4 jaw chuck and then centred the far end say 12" long accurately within a fixed steady, drill the centre and then reverse the bar and centre drill the other end. Does this seem a reasonable way to do it?
Yes that's what I thought but thought i'd best check! I will post photos later or in the morning, I think I have two types with different tips...
Ah thank you, I like it!
I got a second hand dial indicator, when I depress the tip the needle appears a bit sticky, is this normal or should I be looking for a better one would you say?
Thanks Ady1, thats a fair point well made.
Thanks Bazyle, ok I will leave off buying a test bar for now. Yes I don't think dropping the tailstock on the bench helps either...oops!
Good morning all,
I have finally mounted up my Myford M type and have found the tailstock is a tad out of alignment.
|Thread: Amolco Mill depth stop?|
Well Ive just ordered a double split collar to fit hopefully the column, then plan to drill & tap it for a length of studding.
Unlikely to be super precise but it should be an improvement on having nothing.....
Well I'd not looked at the drill before, I wonder why they didnt provide one...cost grounds perhaps...
Hmm thanks Andy. I'm hoping to cut some flutes around a column that stop short from both ends.
So far a short length of oak strapped to the column with masking tape has worked, however its not the most elegant solution!
Hope someone has come up with a better dodge?!
Hi all, particularly anyone who has or has had an Amolco Mill.
Am I missing something or is there no vertical depth of cut stop on these mills?
If not, are there any simple ways of rigging something up?
|Thread: Index backplate on which chuck?|
Ok this is all great, thank you all.
24 holes was the only option available ready made & I'm glad to hear its a generally approved of number if divisions.
Yes Nigel, long cap screws through the front and yes I had also thought of the taps & drill breaking. In due course I will fit it to the 4 jaw and as has been suggested might use it to modify other backplates if necessary.
I'm also glad to learn I'm not the only one who uses marker pens to help me, that and masking tape!
One downside with this backplate is it has a register already turned, and guess what its too small a diameter to suit my chucks. But when I bought it i did not know it was there, so my intention is to turn the existing away, turn a larger diameter recess & bolt a new register in place, then trim to size to get it running true. Its more work but still a lot less than starting from scratch with an iron casting.
ega, when the time comes I will look at detents, and thats an interesting thought about removable dividing rings!,
Plenty of food for thought.
Ok off to play with my nuts now, brass dome heads, I think I have to start again )-:
Thank you all, I was leaning towards the 4" 4-jaw but have trouble making decisions especially as I'm inexperienced.
Typically the 4 jaw chuck fixing screw centres will mean the screw holes in the back plate will come through the back plate half in the main large flat area and half in the outer portion of the threaded section, which would look really messy. The 4" backplate is new and thick, is it acceptable to have the bolts come through the chuck and thread 1/2" deep into the backplate, ie in stopped holes?
ega, There are 24 holes in the backplate, no idea as yet what to pick up with, I figured I'd cross that bridge when I come to it. I was just pleasantly surprised to find a ready made index backplate to fit the Myford M type thread, so went ahead and bought it.
I have an ER32, 4 jaw independent & 3 jaw s/c chucks all needing 100mm backplates.
(I also have Square & Hex ER32 collet blocks)
I have three ready threaded backplates one of which has index holes around the rim.
Question is which chuck would be most useful going forward to have the index backplate please?
|Thread: Best places to buy metal for machining|
I have always used by preference GLR, always been happy!
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