Here is a list of all the postings Chris V has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Copper Plating|
Ah yes got it, thanks for explaining re overhangs.
Actually I was thing I wonder if a Norman could be made & fitted to a lathe other than a Drummond, seems it could be. Is the other Norman you photographed on a Drummond?
Thanks so much John, that's really interesting. Are you saying the Norman is more rigid than the Dickson?
I think I see your Norman parting tool post appears to be fixed to the cross slide by one tee nut?
Thank you John, yes I will certainly let you know, have ordered some bits already.
Regarding that radius on the Norman toolpost ..WOW! Do you sharpen the cutters, send away or buy new when dull? I never found sending them away to be sharpened worked out, they never cut the same as when new.
Just held in the toolpost by two allen bolts then, or did you make a special holder?
Very nice toolholder you made there BTW!
Thanks so much John, I will look to order some bits at the weekend to give this a try.
On a completely different subject, looking at your photos you appear to have used a yellow Tc tipped router cutter for a form tool...were you cutting steel with it on the lathe?
Thanks John & Ian.
Ok Google also taught me what an electrode is/for, seems a bit of copper tubing will do the trick.
So as I understand you if dipping the object to be plated, that will always have one wire attached to it, and the other wire to the electrode. So indirectly both + & - wires are going into the solution?
If the power source is giving out 12V does that mean I'd get 12v worth of electric shock if I put my hand in?
Also, does say 12V work quicker than say 3V? ( I saw one clip using a couple of batteries)
Perhaps you need more Volts if the tank is holding more solution?
Some clips suggest making the solution hot to work quicker I think,.... Ok but once it gets cool not sure about reheating, or if indeed that's really necessary if time is not so important?
Ah, just found an adaptor to fit on the end that you can plug two individual cables into, and its 12V not 6v.
Thanks for this.
Google tells me an old wall wart is what we plug into the wall socket and then into the blood pressure monitor to convert from 240v to 6v, presume thats what you mean? The 6v end has a moulded plug, presume this would need splitting into two? cable leads?
Copper Sulphate yes on eBay no bother and cheap enough.
You lost me after that though?
I'd want to dip my parts to be plated.
Ok many thanks, I shall investigate further kits with batteries!
Good morning all and thank you for these comments.
Yes Steve I'm aware most platers copper plate first, however Ive generally had bad experiences with commercial platers.
John you got me thinking, well Googling a little, and its something I will try at home. The utube clips & available home kits I looked at all used batteries but from the sound of it you just left the metal to be plated in the soloution and waited for it to do its thing?
I will have to do some more research but am keen to have a go if its not too complicated.
Thank you John, that's most interesting.
I don't suppose there's such a simple sounding soloution for copper plating on copper?
It's to disguise a silver soldered repair.
Can anybody recommend please any copper plating companies that are happy to take on small one off like jobs at a reasonable cost?
It does not matter where in the UK as happy to post the parts.
|Thread: Back copy No274 November 2018|
Hi John, thank you so much, another forum member has already got me sorted out though! (-:
Much appreciate the offer though,
Could anybody please help with a scan, or even better sell me a back copy of the Norman Tool post article in No 274 November 2018 Model Engineers Workshop?
|Thread: Eclipse No 101 Adjustable Scribe|
Thank you Bill, ok great that's another method to try out and good to know it works.
Thank you also Hopper, yes thankfully the marbled blue base is in good condition save for a few rust spots on the underside. I will most certainly be keeping the original finish on that part, the rest needs some TLC. Part of my day job is restoring old lighting so I know the value of saving and preserving patina.
Brian thanks again, yes this answers the question of how it was likely done...and also given the chemicals involved I think I will have to be satisfied with a non mottled/marbled blue.
Ok off to work for me,
Ha! so it does, so much to learn!
Cannot see Boots selling me cyanide salts, not that I'd want them!
Thank you both!
This morning I had delivered a new to me vintage Eclipse No 101 adjustable scribe.
Some light surface rust, but the base is blued in a wonderful mottled/marble finish, would this be achieved with heat and then in oil or cold? I know bluing can be by either but just wondering if the MARBLED effect can be reproduced at home?
I was told recently that leaving lightly rusted steel to soak in WD40 for a few weeks is a very gentle way of removing corrosion, if I put the whole thing in to soak is it likely to affect / remove the bluing?
Last but not least what is the vertical knurled knob for?
|Thread: Unimat Fretsaw set up|
Ok thanks, I will have to practice!
Oh yes, what blades and where from please, I think the ones I got are probably too fine ....
Ah thank you John ok I will try that, seems like I was over thinking it
Not like me at all🤔😊
Ok well I set the fretsaw up this morning and was pleasantly surprised with how it works.
Cut 1mm copper and 1.5mm brass without much problem.
Only issue I can see is if as suggested the top guide is lowered down to just clear of the work being cut, to act as both a hold down and blade support you cannot see where you are cutting. So that's something to think about..and any ideas are welcome.
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