Here is a list of all the postings Mark Easingwood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: TREND VARIJIG Part Dimensions Wanted?|
Trend Router Bases are tapped M6, so you only need a clearance hole and counterbore.
Plastic/Nylon/Wood would also be ok to use. The Trend one is probably plastic, so it won't mark the job.
For Reference the piece in this picture is 70mm long x 20mm wide.
The Guide Bushes are flush with the router base, so don't add anything to the thickness of the jig.
I don't have this particular jig, but I think the block will be the same thickness as the frame, other dimensions not critical. I guess it is screwed to router base to stop router tipping over, when balancing on the narrow frame.
I just stick a suitable block of wood on the base with double sided tape, when using home made jigs.
Instructions for Varijig are here ;-
|Thread: Non-warping Wood for Base?|
I would broadly do as Jason has suggested.
Two sheets of 3 or 6mm MDF for top and bottom, inner framework of MDF strips, (like an aeroplane wing, only flat)
Glue it all together, then lip the outer edges with hardwood, say 8mm thick, mitred at the four corners, flush it off with the top/bottom.
Veneer over the top and bottom, trim edges flush, then chamfer . Use matching veneer and lipping, and you won't see the join when you chamfer it.
Mark. (Joinery Manufacturer).
Jason is quicker than me.
Edited By Mark Easingwood on 06/02/2022 16:57:19
|Thread: raglan 5|
Hello, and welcome.
I believe the Raglan 5" has 14 DP/ 14.5º pressure angle change wheels. The Gears in the gearbox are 16 DP.
Raglan Mk 1 and Mk 11 have 16 DP change wheels. Some late Mk 11 models have 14 DP change wheels.
I have a late MK 11 with 14 DP change wheels, I require both a 20 and 48 tooth 14 DP change wheel. Have been looking for a couple of years without success, so good luck with your search.
Someone on Ebay makes gears to order in Delrin, also on Ebay a seller called 52kr LINK often has Raglan parts for sale, he is a nice fella to deal with.
|Thread: Duplicating in the lathe|
Yes, an interesting find, well thought out.
He has either accidently or knowingly "duplicated" the method used on industrial hydraulic copy lathes, (for wood), as seen in this ;-
|Thread: French tools-of-the-trade stamps|
You hold them as shown on the back of the packet, fairly upright, with fore finger on ridged part, on the Shaw one. You need a bit of pressure for a consistent cut. No idea how old this is, even 'tho it is unused, or when carbide replaced Alloy Steel.
When freehand cutting shaped pieces for stained glass windows etc, it can be easier to push the cutter, rather than pull it, and turn the piece of glass as well.
Here you go, the one on the left is hollow, so it can be filled with oil. I can't find a diamond one at the minute, got one somewhere tho'. You could still buy diamond ones a few years ago, not sure now. The Shaw glass cutters used to be available with a 6 wheel rotating head, so you could turn it to a new cutter, as the one in use got blunt.They also used to sell replacement wheels, a fiddly job!
|Thread: Android GO|
If it's any help, I have had a MOTO G6 for 3 years, my first smartphone, I bought it unlocked from John Lewis, (best price at the time), and use it with Giff Gaff.
No problems with the 'phone, not much bloatware on it, works well for online banking etc.
I tend not to use much data, as it works on wifi at home, at my business premises there is no signal inside, most of the time.
When I was press ganged into delivering leaflets for "Slimming World" we were issued with a wooden spoon, to poke the leaflets through the letterbox, using the spoon end. I didn't use mine, too slow, but i did wear gloves.
Blame the Building Regs for the "air lock" style letter plates, houses have to be air tight these days.
|Thread: pantomime sword|
Try using "Birch Ply", which is a better quality Plywood than the "Far Eastern Ply" usually sold.
Or make a former and laminate strips of Ash, as when making an Archery Bow.
|Thread: Is this blindingly obvious?|
Chamber Joist, when I was an apprentice.
Basically, scribe the tenon shoulder over the moulding, as others have said.
Top Left shows the kind of joint produced with the scribe and mould cutters, as Jason linked to, which creates a stub tenon which fits into the panel groove. This relies on the glue holding the joint together, great for cupboard doors, no use for house doors. (This was done using Spindle Moulder Cutter Blocks).
Top Right shows through scribed joints, the Sapele one was done on the Tenoning Machine in the background, the Softwood one by Bandsaw/Hand Tools.
Bottom Left, the kind of gouges required to create scribes by hand, are the in-cannel type, i.e. inside bevel.
Bottom Right, when scribing wide rails on Doors etc, if doing it by hand you only need to scribe ½ inch to 1 inch say, the remaining shoulder can be left square, and a section of moulding chiseled away on the stile, similar to the drawing, which is of a frame.
|Thread: What are these tools?|
Bottom right are mortise chisels and bits, for making mortises in timber, not cheap for quality ones.
The two items above them, are yokes/adapters, to fit the chisels to a pillar drill.
|Thread: Into the darkness|
Which in practical terms means you can leave a flu' on 24/7 for free!
Well I rent an Industrial Unit from the local authority, it's lit with twin 8 ft fluorescents, via spinning disc meters.
The lights certainly spin the discs, and cost more to run, than much of my industrial woodworking machinery!
|Thread: BSW Fasteners|
Kayfast of Wakefield have them. Also available in their Ebay shop.
This should take you there.
|Thread: Which type/brand of razor blades stay sharp longest? (cutting card/greyboard)|
I haven't used a Logan Mount Cutter, but I have a Longridge one. You are advised, by Longridge, to always place a "SprintMat" under the Mount Board you are cutting. This is a specialy made board, designed to save the blade, stop it wandering off course and stop the Mount Board from breaking out. Does the Logan one not use a similar sacrificial board?
|Thread: First steps with a Shapeoko router table|
If you are anywhere near Driffield in East Yorkshire I can fix you up with Some MDF, from my Joinery Manufacturing Business. Usually plenty of offcuts around.
|Thread: Hangar door suspension|
As said above, also have a look here, PC Henderson Door Tracks, these are one of the main suppliers of sliding door tracks,
|Thread: Plumbing - 'polarity' of tails.|
I ain't no plumber, but starting with cold pipes, ie heating off for a while, the pipe that heats up first should be the flow, and the still cold one the return. If using thermostatic valves on the radiator, most modern ones work on either flow or return. Or try asking the fella that did the job.
|Thread: My week this week! My workshop videos|
ICE = In Car Entertainment
I think the Rawlplug tool is for use in an electric drill, from before many folks had a hammer drill. Probably slow rotation and hammer action, to mimic using the fully mandraulic version!!!
I am pretty sure the milling cutter is for use on timber, have seen a set recently, might be called “Shaper Craft” or some such. Fitting goes in electric drill and cutter goes in that, bit like the Rawlplug tool.
The box it is in, is a fishing tackle box, as sold by Woolworths, “down street”about 40 years ago.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.